What is the filter PSI?

Is there an air relief valve on the filter and have you purged air until water flows?

If your return flow is normal I would not worry about the sounds.

Maldravus said:

I edited my post - I meant to say 30 not 40. So it is somewhere between 30 and 60.

Click to expand...

If you could not see the dot at 30 but can see at 40 then it is 40

It’s 40 then.

No normal duration. Takes what it takes.

Calll it 50.

I don't think you mean ScreenLogic as I obviously have the app for the Mac, I think you mean the program that directly interfaces with the PA. I used to have a Mac and recall using it to upgrade the PA many years ago

So I am on day 4 of the SLAM. Water is crystal clear (maybe the clearest it's been since I moved here). Chlorine dropped a little overnight so have not passed OCLT yet. Chloramines are 0.5, and I still see some green when I brush in certain areas of the pool, so I expect at least one more day. I know it varies, but what is a "normal" duration for a SLAM ?

Also, I got my new IC40 salt cell yesterday and have wired in the Power Center (not terminated yet). I will put some questions about that in the SWG forum.

Wife is excited because the pool looks so good. Last year we had a neighborhood person coming weekly and I didn't like her - wouldn't tell me what she added to the pool and by her shocking every week it kept me from understanding my SWG wasn't keeping up.

Also, I am revising down my pool volume based on how the FC is reacting to chlorine adds. Right now I am estimating more like 22k gal.

Welcome to TFP.

BuilderOKC said:

My builder is saying that they can backfill the shell with dirt the day after the gunite is shot. I figured there would need to be some cure time before they do this.

Click to expand...

If no access is needed to the outside walls, the gunite can be backfilled after the shot. Gunite will cure fine in the ground.

Gunite/Shotcrete needs to be protected from rain until it obtains its final set, usually 4 or 5 hours. Following the final set, it should be wet cured for at least 4 days, preferably 7 days.

BuilderOKC said:

We have red dirt clay soil. Also another question we are doing Hydrazzo for our pool finish how long should the shell cure before this is shot. Thanks in Advance.

Click to expand...

I would give the shell at least 7 days of watering and curing. Then tile and coping needs to be installed. By the time the shell is watered and tile and coping installed it will be ready for plaster.

amoondoe said:

Hello All,

I had a pool for several years and have been following the TFP methods. I decided to try tackling hard plumbing this year; however, I am having all kinds of trouble getting pipe to properly set in fittings. I am using Oatey Purple Primer and Oatey Rain-R-Shine Blue PVC cement. The glue always seems to be gumming up and and I can't get the pipe fully inside before it locks up. I think I'm moving at a reasonable speed. Am I underestimating the pressure it takes to get it fully seated....maybe I'm just on strong enough and need my husband to do it?

How critical is it that it is fully seated? Is there product that is more forgiving that will stills work? I am using a ratcheting pipe cutter on 1 1/2 PVC...I am deburring. I am not chamfering...at least not well...is that crucial? All help and advice welcome! Thank you!!!

Click to expand...

I use the blue stuff as well. Just apply some to both the pipe and the socket and then insert the pipe within 10 seconds (and hold it there for about 5-10 seconds, or it can back itself out) and it should be fine. If you’re taking longer than 10-ish seconds you will need a slower glue or change your process to be quicker.

respecttheu said:

Woke up to a bunch of rust looking stains in my pool. Took a water sample to my local pool store and they said I had a lot fo copper in my water. I attached the report. I do have a lot of trees surrounding my pool and mulch bed with sprinklers (I attached pics so you can see the set up). That might be the problem? Anyways any advice on how to remove the stains would greatly be appreciated.

Click to expand...

The only way for copper to get in the water is for someone to put it in there. What products do you use to maintain the chlorine?

The pool store test results aren’t reliable, even for copper testing. I’d get a jacks stain ID kit and find out if it really is copper and then make a plan after that.

And would recommend getting your own test kit and not rely on Leslie’s anymore. Here’s a link. Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

Welcome to TFP.

Copper in pools do not come from trees or mulch. Read...


Confirm they are copper stains with...

Demand of 4.5 isn’t unheard of, but seems high for spring in tx

What is your cya? May be low.

Dose above range so you are IN range wwhen you test.

I’d also do an OCLT. Link—->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

The pool was originally built with a pressure-side cleaner system. There are 5 jets in the pool — 4 are connected to the filter return, and the 5th appears to be a dedicated return line likely used with a pressure cleaner.
At some point, a corded robotic cleaner (Polaris P945) replaced that setup. However, I'm not getting good cleaning performance. The robot seems to miss dirt — it looks like the debris just settles back to the floor the next day.
I’ve also used the 5th jet in the past to vacuum debris straight out of the pool (to waste), but the water drains too quickly, and the hose often blows off or breaks due to pressure, even with strong clamps.
Now, I’m questioning whether my filter system is working correctly. The water is cloudy even though pool chemistry is in range. Fine dirt reappears on the floor a day after cleaning. It makes me wonder if:

• My cartridges are damaged or bypassing dirt somehow.
• There may be a leak or internal failure in the filter housing.

I’d love advice on:

• How to test the filter to see if it’s working properly (before replacing cartridges or the whole unit).
• Whether I should consider re-activating the pressure-side cleaner line with the right equipment.
• The best way to vacuum to waste without draining too much water or breaking hoses.

Thanks in advance — I really want to get this pool back in shape as I've struggled with the dirt on the floor every year. I replaced the cartridges in 2023. I clean them once a month using the garden hose.

Dirty filter, clogged skimmers.

Can you pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?

The Calimar pump is almost exclusively sold by Pool Supply Unlimited. Look for the "parts available" link to view which parts are available, and scroll down to related items to find the automation adapter.

The automation adapter aloows the use of third-party automation controllers to provide of pump speeds via relays.

Benny07 said:

Well when I vacuum the pool the stuff at the bottom goes into a cloud and passes through the bag on my pool blaster which is what's confusing me as to what it is.

Click to expand...

What bag are you using in your Pool Baster cleaner?

Chris,

Until recently I had three saltwater pools that all had IntelliChlor SWCGs.. I had the pools for well over 12 years, so I have been through a few cells.

Not one of them lasted less than 5 years, most died at about 7 years with one lasting for almost 9 years.

I say this because something it wrong... I have no idea what, but 7 cells in less than a year, just make no sense at all..

Tell us how the cell is powered.. Do you have an EasyTouch with an Internal power supply or do you have an External Power Center?

Has the power center been replaced or tested?

Have you been cleaning your cell with full strength Muriatic Acid?

Does you cell quickly fill up with calcium?

Do you have an acid feeder?

What chemicals do you use to maintain your pH?

Tell us more about what is going on?

I can understand how it is possible to have a 'bad' cell.. but it is impossible to have 7 bad cells..

Thanks,

Jim R.

I just read that post cover to cover. That's awesome. Thank you.

There is a significant amount of algae in the pool...that's what we are working on. How does algae cause the air issues?

JRzMom said:

I test almost daily for FC, but I find the R-0870 powder doesn't keep well. I'm thinking of buying a 16 oz. size and refilling the kit as needed. Is that worth it, or will it go bad? I try to be careful with moisture, but I guess I'm not careful enough. Also, how do you keep the scoop clean? It gets all gunked up. Do you wash it and dry it well before putting it back in the kit? Any suggestions for keeping the moisture out? I've read a few posts about using one of those silicone pouches taped to the lid, doing the test indoors (away from humidity), etc. What works, and most importantly, should I buy the 16 oz. size?

Click to expand...

My 2 cents...

After looking at prices of the smaller containers compared to the larger ones, I took a risk nearly 4 years ago and bought .25lb R0870 powder and 16 oz. R0871 reagent. I shared some with my F.I.L. and have been using the reagents since. I didn't expect to use it for more than a couple years, but there was still value in the purchase of the larger sizes. I have purchased a couple of TF-100 refill kits since then and have compared the results to the fresh reagents. I'm still getting expected results. I always have fresh clean white powder. I'm glad I made the purchase. I can test as frequently as I want and run my own experiments without the fear of running out of reagent. I keep the large containers of reagents in a dark dry indoor storage cabinet. YMMV

Thanks Jeff. I ordered these with the new Stenner injector and will be swapping out today to see how performance "hopefully" improves with just enough backpressure to push open the check valve if it isn't due to aged pumped tubes... stay tuned.

Following as we are looking at doing pavers and I hate to deal with pavers's on sand.
But didn't think about doing a concrete base, then pavers over sand