Pool equipment install. SWG with Hayward on backorder

Did you get your OmniPL? That's what the builder is using on our pool and I'm just wondering if it is B/O or available? The Hayward heatpump w/ chiller function is back ordered. The builder is slow enough and don't want anything else to slow things down.
I got the OmniPL and it's installed. Not sure when they ordered it but I signed my contract back in Feb.

Pentair 400 Heater not igniting, no errors, everything visually working

You can check for 24 volts AC at the gas valve when it is supposed to open.

Make sure that the On/Off switch on the valve is in the On position.

Check the gas shutoff valve right outside the heater to make sure that it is open.

Check for a gas shutoff valve near the meter.

Check the inlet gas pressure before the gas valve opens and after it opens.

Pentair 400 Heater not igniting, no errors, everything visually working

The ignitor should still be hot enough that it can turn off as soon as the gas valve gets power and the gas should still ignite.

So, I suspect that it is a gas supply issue.

If you smell gas, that indicates that the valve is probably opening and letting some gas come out but the pressure is probably dropping off fast as shown in the video that I linked to earlier.

The inlet gas pressure was fine until the gas valve opened and then it went to zero.

Pentair 400 Heater not igniting, no errors, everything visually working

The blower starts first, which should close the air flow switch.

Once the Air Flow Switch closes, the TH terminal get 24 VAC to activate the HSI (Hot Surface Ignitor).

After 20 seconds, the VAL (Gas Valve) terminal gets 24 VAC to power the gas valve.

The ignition should happen within about one or two seconds.

So, the ignitor will switch off about a second or two after the gas valve is supposed to open.

The ignitor seems to be working correctly, so that points to the gas valve or gas pressure.

Make sure that the valves are all open and check the gas pressure.

Pentair 400 Heater not igniting, no errors, everything visually working

I'll post a video of the unit starting up below. I don't know if what is happening is expected behavior or not.

I checked the igniter wires with the clamp meter, which are getting about 4 amps, and then as soon as something clicks (maybe the gas valve opening, I could smell gas at that moment each time) the power to the igniter is cut, and then returns about 12 seconds later - this happens during each attempt. I don't know if the igniter is supposed to still have power when the gas valve opens, and don't see anything on this in the manual or other links unless I've missed it. Anyone know?

The manual says the igniter goes into sensing mode 'after ignition' but it's not specified if the igniter should be on while gas is flowing, but has not yet lit - on my unit the igniter appears to lose power as soon as the gas valve opens.

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Sand filter for new pool?

The sands cavities will get filled, and the sand does get smoother over time. Eventually. But give it at least five years, likely ten or more. And thats not really why you change the sand out. You change the sand out because it fills up with dirt and Crud after awhile it's easier to just start over with fresh sand than to try to clean it in a filter.

I would like you to notice that there is a TR-140 and a TR-140 C................ C as in Comercial
There is also a smaller TR-100, and a TR-100C.................. C as in Comercial

If you upgrade from that filter in your bid to a TR-100, That's good. You will be much happer with that. Period.
If you up graded a little more from there to a TR-100C, C as in Comercial, you will have 4 diffusses in it not one.
If you upgraded to a TR-140, that's a big bad F'ing filter.
If you upgrading from that to a TR-140C. C as in Comercial. Well thats as big as they can get. As far as you know.

All I'm saying is at least go with the TR-100 or TR-100C, and never have to worry about your filter again. The TR-100 and TR-140 (C or not) have about the same size foot print on the ground. The TR-140 (C or not) is a little wider, but the stand is the same size as the TR-100 (C or not).

A lot of the folks here at TFP, hover over their pool. They know their pool inside and out, their systems, equations, calculations, processes, etc. Bottom line it's work, and sometimes hard work. It's not all science, and it's not all shoot from the hip either. I can buy you about 10 years of time from your new learning curve with a very simple troube free filter on your new pool. Gives you the chance to free up a lot of your time from worrying about your pool. And if you do have a problem you can scratch your filter off as the culprit.

If your asking us questions about the sand in a sand filter vs DE with a 20,000gal + pool size, then a sand filter is your filter buddy. Your at skill level 0. Just get the right filter. Start with a TR-100 and go up from there.
No public pools use DE or cart filters, they use sand. Why becuase they are simple, and get the same results with less than half the effort.

Built Right Heat Pumps First Impression

We have owned our home for about 4 years now and the pool is original with the house about 16 years old. There is a screened in lanai, so even in S FL the pool temp rarely went over 84 and that is in the middle of summer with 92+ days and little rain. Our prior house had solar heater and no cage, so was able to keep the temps up year round and as a result we definitely got more use out of it. I had been kicking around different heat pumps vs solar for quite awhile and decided we only live once, get the heat pump and have near full control over pool temp. I researched quite a bit and there is a company local to me Built Right that seemed to be the best buy for the money and warranty (5 years). When searching the forum, I didn't see any posts mention them, so wanted to leave this initial review. I spoke to a few different installers and nothing but favorable things to say. I got a few estimates ranging from $3700-4800 for the install without the electrical work (additional $850). I chose my installer based off timeliness and communication, as well as fairly close proximity (he was great if you live in Sarasota, FL and need a recommendation, happy to share his info).

My experience with Built Right was great. I had some questions about which model to choose, I called and within minutes was on the phone with one of their techs that have been their for 15+ years. He spent well over 15 minutes explaining the variables that go in to heating and offered a recommendation based off our pool setup. The heat pump was delivered 2 days later and within a couple hours was humming away. While it's very early to say long term, the initial buying experience was great and so far we have a warm pool.
Glad to see more info about these coming out! I've been looking at them for 3 months now but haven't pulled the trigger. About to order one this week. How much did you pay for just the heater and install? Also did you snag the 135k one?

Spa spillover always running

If Spillover is enabled, the filtering periods all run in Spillover rather than Pool Only.
If Spillover is disabled, filtering runs in Pool Only, so spa water is not exchanged unless Spillover is manually enabled.

I am not sure what that means..

As long at the pump is running you are filtering... :scratch:

In the Pool mode all the water gets sucked from the pool and returned to the pool.. No water goes to the spa.
In the Spa mode all the water gets sucked from the Spa and returned to the Spa.. No fresh water ever gets into the spa.
In the Spillover mode all the water gets sucked from the pool and returned to the Spa. This is what keeps you spa water fresh. We usually suggest that you run this mode twice a day for half an hour or so each time.. You just schedule this like any other action.

I'm sure it is just me, but I don't understand the problem.. :scratch:


Jim R.

Can I use Chlor Brite Pool Shock instead of Chlorine tabs?

Welcome to the forum!
Pool School is a great place to learn about pool water chemistry and chemicals that TFPC recommends and does not recommend.
Trichlor (tablets) and dichlor (powdered shock) have their place in very limited situations. The non chlorine shock you mention should never be used in a pool.
I suggest you read through Pool School - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool
You will find TFPC is quite a bit different than pool store methods. We advocate the pool owner doing their own water testing with a proper test kit. See Test Kits Compared
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

How to troubleshoot a pump that turns off


The IntelliFlo should be getting constant AC power... This means that if it shuts off it is either being told to shut off or it is losing it's RS-485 control link.

If it was a scheduling issue it should happen at a consistent time..

As Allen points out, it would be good to know what the pump's display says when it quits working.. It the display does not say "Display Not Active" that means it is not being controlled by the RS-485 signals.

Another thing that can cause confusion is manually turning the pump on or off when it is scheduled to run. Depending on when you turn it on or off, it can cause the schedule to get confused.. This can result in the pump running until it hits its egg-timer limit.. The egg-timer can be set, but the default is 12 hours.

If the RS-485 chips inside the pump's control head are intermittent, this too can cause intermittent operation.

If this were my pump, I'd watch it like a hawk for about 24 hours and document what actually is happening.. When does it quit and when does it start, what does the pump's display say..?? During this time, make sure you do not manually turn the pump on or off..

Another possibility is that the RS-485 connection inside the EasyTouch is intermittent.. I suggest that you wiggle the connections and see if you can get the pump to stop.


Jim R.

How difficult to replace a return jet in an inground vinyl liner pool?

I responded to your PM. Getting cold for this type of repair for a DIY. Much easier in warm weather. Lower water below fitting at least a few inches. These are a pain if the hole is round the torx looking pre cut holes are easier you domt have to hold the face. You need enough room to remove the face the majority of fitting goes in from front only nut is on back

Can I use Chlor Brite Pool Shock instead of Chlorine tabs?

I'm just learning how to treat my pool. Leslie's sold me Chlor Brite Pool Shock which made my CYA way too high because my pool already has chorine tabs. I have the correct non-chlorine pool shock now (Fresh and Clear) but I don't want this 150.00 bucket of chlorinated shock to go to waste, so I'm hoping I can use it without increasing my CyA. If I can use it in place of chlorine tabs do you think a half cup is a good place to start for a small 7500 gallon pool when there's no chlorine tabs in use at the time?

Vermiculite walls caving in

That's pretty bad from pics. Almost looks like a home made mix very heavy on the mortar. If it's as bad as it looks I would just redo the floor. If you have a pool light you will see everything at night. Water isnt a big issue just dig a shallow pit amd install a garden hose sump pump cheapie. Let it run 24 7. Do the floor amd all around the small pit. Next day when dry have liner ready amd clean floor amd be ready. Throw a semi dry patch in the hole and set liner. I do this on half my builds I fight water all the time