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Spa Mode Not An Option in Aqualink App

Do you have a pool only or pool + spa?

If you have a pool only and a pool only Aqualink that is why iAqualink does not show a spa control.

You need to assign the JVA for your sheer descent to an AUX and that AUX will control your sheer descent.

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@PoolGate
Just a pool but the spa mode button on the control panel is what turns on the descents. Which should I assign to aux 2 to turn the right valve on?

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Black Algae Starting - Please Help!

With the water being colder, having the lower pH tells me my CSI is going to be high scaling potential. (High negative CSI)
My plaster already looks like Crud so I guess it's no biggie at this point. 😭

I raised the TA (and keep it higher) to keep my CSI in range. I'll have to try and find the ideal combo of other chemicals with TA at the lower range. However, I am surprised to hear I should get my TA down as low as 60. At one point I had it at 70 and I was told to bump it, and in order to keep my CSI in good range it was difficult to with TA at the lower range but I will give that a shot. Having to add as much acid as I do will drop it relatively soon anyhow.

It's been a while since you posted that, but I just skimmed through your thread, and this doesn't seem to have been clarified: Above sounds like you have CSI back to front, if I interpret your posts correctly.

Negative CSI means that the water is undersaturated with calcium carbonate, which means that the water will want to get saturated by dissolving calcium carbonate out of the plaster surfaces, i.e. the more negative the CSI, the more corrosive the water to plaster surfaces.

Positive CSI means that the water is oversaturated with calcium carbonate, which means that the water wants to get rid of the excess calcium carbonate by creating scale on all surfaces in contact with the water, i.e. the more positive the CSI, the higher the scaling potential of the water.

CSI zero means that the water is saturated with calcium carbonate.

Reducing pH, TA, CH or temperature all reduce CSI, i.e. reduce the scaling potential.

Increasing pH, TA, CH or temperature all increase CSI, i.e. increase the scaling potential.

With a salt water chlorinator, you want CSI between -0.3 (negative 0.3) and 0, to avoid scaling not only on your plaster, but also inside the SWG cell, where CSI is locally increased around one of the electrode plates because of locally increased pH due to the chemistry of the electrolysis process.

If you already have a scaling problem, then you want to keep your TA rather smaller than higher.

Featured Waiting for the freezing weather

Mark, I was thinking about your thoughts on the challenge to obtain gas and totally agree. That said, I was thinking about a Dual-generator to see if that might be a possibility. I see you have a 5000W generator that I assume handles your pump and heating, fridge, and freezer with more to spare. Adequate? I'm in the early stages of this task with our electrician coming out tomorrow to install a new home surge protector and possibly add one protector to the pump breakers. Also, an interlock for the generator. I really don't want to add unnecessary $$$$ to this project but the minute something goes wrong, like a lightning strike, which we get a lot here in Central TX, or the TX grid fails again, I'll probably curse myself out for not taking preventive measures! :)...Bill
Bill, we lived in Boerne for 7 years before moving to Lake Charles about 3 years ago so I understand your concerns about the Texas power grid and ice storms. For us now in Lake Charles, our biggest concern is with hurricane and tropical storm damage and resultant power outages in the August - October timeframe when the weather is normally hot. Therefore we have a small 110V window AC unit in storage that we can install in our master bedroom window that cools both the bedroom and bathroom. We have natural gas at the house and have a natural gas stove and water heaters - so those are normally operable even with power outages. We plug in our fridge and freezer and a few misc. lamps and a coffee pot and we can hunker down and survive with the generator until power is restored (we have RV’d a lot and are used to small spaces!). With our new pool recently being completed, this will be the first time we will need to manage it post storm. I talked to our electrician yesterday and he agreed the interlock is the best way to go (versus a transfer switch) and agreed the 50 amp option would be best. We already have whole-house surge protectors. That’s our power outage “survival“ plan.

Betta 2 primarily for dog hair

Forgive me because I'm easily confused! My first thought was that the dog hair was overwhelming your skimmer, which I completely understand because my skimmer socks are full of dog hair after my kids come over with their dogs to swim. For me, the dog hair is fine enough that water gets through it in the skimmer and I just clean the sock and it's all good.

But if the dog hair isn't even getting to the skimmer, the Betta might be helpful, but I think I would be more inclined to figure out why the pool isn't skimming well enough for that. Is the weir door operating correctly, or not even installed? Maybe you just need to ramp up the pump speed a couple of times each day to get a better result from the skimmer?

I'm thinking about adding a Betta to my list of pool toys next season - but mostly to help clean out the pine needles and willow leaves that are constantly in my pool. I have no idea why the previous owner thought putting those trees right next to a pool was a good idea!
Nah the skimmer is doing fine. It’s a brand new pool. I’m running my pump at 1800rpm about 8hrs a day and when the pump stops each day the surface looks good. When I wake up in the morning with the rising sun reflecting on the pool there’s a lot of hair that was made it’s way there over the past 16hrs. I’m hoping this thing will help make my mornings a little nicer.

I think I’m probably going to pull the trigger and take advantage of the return window if I don’t like it I just clean the sock and it's all good.
I have had only one dog, a friend's, in my pool. Twice. A German Shepard mix, I guess.

View attachment 464271

Both times her hairs sank to the bottom and were swept up by my Polaris.
mine do not get in the pool. The hair that is getting in is blowing in with with the breeze and it floats. I do my best to sweep but I can’t do it every day and when I do a lot more gets in because it’s getting disturbed

Swimex questions

I don't know much about fibreglass pools or indoor pools. But since nobody replied yet, I'll give my 2 cents worth, also to give the thread a bump, hoping that more will chime in.

My first thought was that it looks like Swimex is trying to make sure that they never ever have to pay for warranty claims.

Annual draining and waxing of the pool surfaces sounds like a complete waste of water and time to me.

A SWG is by far the easiest way to keep a pool "balanced". The continuous chlorination actually helps to break down chloramines quickly.

And yes, supplemental oxidation systems can be beneficial in indoor pools to accelerate CC breakdown. In outdoor pools on the other side, they are a complete waste of money, as you get free UV from the sun in surplus.

I really don't see pH fluctuations to be a problem with SWGs. Low pH is usually more of a problem when chlorinating with trichlor tabs, which are acidic and require regular baking soda additions to compensate the TA reduction caused by them, keeping TA high enough to offset the trichlor induced pH-drop by CO2 outgassing.

Salt water splash-out can be an issue for corrosion sensitive surfaces, probably more so in indoor pools that don't get regular rain induced cleanings. The answer is to simply not have corrosion sensitive materials around the pool.

By the way: Any chlorinated pool turns into a salt pool over time. Chlorine doesn't magically disappear after doing its job, it gets turned into chloride, aka salt. With an SWG, you simply recycle salt into chlorine, and you basically keep the salt level constant. With a manually chlorinated pool, you keep adding chlorine that eventually gets turned into salt.
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SWG - Cya levels, FC levels

Hi everyone

I see the general recommendation is to run higher CYA levels for a SWG pool. That seems to be to reduce load on the SWG cell and reduce ph rise.

Does the higher FC needed for the higher CYA make more of a chlorine smell? Or does the fact that the CYA is binding some of it up make it equivalent comfort-wise with running a lower FC level?

Thanks, my pool is new and I want to be sure before I start upping the CYA level.

Is a Hartford loop a good substitute for a heater check valve?

I am not an expert, but have done some numbers and concluded that a check valve is cheap insurance.

Here is the worst case: If you have a high output SWG cell, say ~4 pounds per 24 hours, and a VSP running at lowest possible speed, say 30 gpm, then the cell is adding about 11 ppm of chlorine whenever it's on: (4 lb/day / 24 hr/day / 60 min/hr) lb Cl/min / (8 lb/gal * 30 gal/min) lb H2O/min * 10^6. Result units are lb CL per million lb water. Plus whatever the base Cl level is. Say 6, so 17 ppm of chlorine in all.

High chlorine is not good for copper pipes like the heater core. All it takes is a gallon or two of backflow as/after the pump turns off to pull this 17 ppm into the heater where it sits until the pump is on again. For one, Swimming Pool Steve is unequivocal that this happens in many pools. For completeness, several folks here have been skeptical of SS's statements. I'm on the fence. He professes to be a builder/maintainer for decades. I believe him. He has nothing much to gain by misleading us. Nearly all he says agrees with TFP.

Will the "Hartford loop" prevent back flow? If there's a siphon at work, then no. But it's got to be very system dependent. In the end, you can be absolutely sure that a CV will.

All the above could be wrong. But the CV will still be a good idea if something does go bad in the heater. In this video



SS points out that oems use lack of a check valve to wiggle out of warranty service. Pentaire shows one in their install diagrams.

As I said, cheap insurance.

Been chasing a leak

For years I have been chasing a leak. I have had two companies that can't find it.

After a few years it is worse. I seem to have narrowed it down to an interesting phenomenon. I have an in ground with an attached spa. I have recently noticed the spa losing water. The strange part is, it looses water when I have the pool pump running and the cleaner on. When I run the spa, spa jets, or even the pool skimmer with the cleaner shut off I don't lose water.

I would like some ideas before calling another company.

Thanks for any support.

Vacation

If you put one 3 inch puck in a floater it will add about 4 ppm of chlorine over the time it takes to dissolve and about 2.5 ppm of CYA. At .5 ppm loss per day, that will easily cover a 3-day trip. The CYA will be a good thing, as "something less than 20" is below TFP recommended. See the chart.

I'm saying this because I put a floater in for safety when I left for a 10-day trip last summer. That's mid-summer hot in NC. 4 pucks (3 inch). Sure enough the pump breaker tripped (long story). Both pump and SWG were useless. Water was still clear when I got back. FC was 6.5. Dodged a bullet.

Otoh boosting to a high level with LQ ought to be fine for this short period. The suggestion of @PoolStored to practice whatever you plan to do is excellent.

Pentair Spa won't stay on/heated

Lynne,

To see your Circuits you go to Menu, Settings, Circuit Functions. This will show you what is set to come on with freeze. You will have to use the up/dn buttons to scroll through your different "Circuits".

If you run the pump 24/7, you don't need anything set up as on with freeze.

I assume that you currently have Pool, Spa, and Blower set up as on with freeze. You need to set then all to "NO"

Thanks,

Jim R.
You were exactly right! Pool was set to on. It's working great now!

Pentair Spa won't stay on/heated

If the freeze protection is kicking on and you have the pool tagged as on with freeze as well as the spa it will rotate the valves every 15 min or so. Make sure you have the freeze protection turned off for the pool or it will engage the pool on a freeze protection event. This is true if you have actually winterized the pool and there is no danger of freeze for the pool.
You're a genius! Freeze protect WAS on pool AND spa. Pretty sure our $500 shut down fee should have included turning the pool setting off :/ We are learning bit by bit. Thanks so much!

Confused over Water Testing

1 Read my username. Be not confused. Eliminate the confusion. Do not go to the pool store for testing or advice. My namesake job is done.

2 Always trust your test kit (TF-100 or K-2006).

3 When you get your kit, and a full set of results, THEN we can make a recommendation on the CYA (and other adjustments). We don't know what your CYA is yet (see #1). We will when we get your kit onboard.

I would recommend printing this out, read it three times.

Actually, I'd print all of them out...will really help the first couple times...

You Got This Good Luck Today GIF by MOODMAN
Got it! Thanks...Bill

Confused over Water Testing

Oh no...not confusing when you consider that technology is only as good as the user, are they really trained in the system?... has it been cleaned lately? How about Calibrated? Or, worse case...do the need to make some sales?

Maddie :flower:
Yeah, the more I read on this site and get a better understanding, it gets a whole lot easier! Agree with the miscues you mentioned. Thanks, Bill

Greetings from California

I’ll definitely get a proper salt reading before I add and as I add.
Here are your choices, same test...you can get the taylor anywhere, but many have had issues with outdated reagents on Amazon (including me). TFTest will stand behind it.
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Greetings from California

Don't add any salt until you check your salt level with a salt level test (K-1766) because just assuming the device reading could cause you to really oversalt your pool!! The device works entirely differently than a true salt test to give readings.
Thanks but I didn’t meant to suggest I was planning on adding salt yet. I was simply answer about the details of my SWG system and the fact that I’m current not generating. I’ll definitely get a proper salt reading before I add and as I add.
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Major sanitizer problems at a new spa in the Toronto area

Thanks for the responses - there already is a class action lawsuit being worked on.

Yeah, I’m sure every person that was there is going to try to jump on the gravy train …. bunch of whiny little sissies. Pseudomonas and staph are pretty common bacteria so unless these were really unhealthy people, the range of diseases caused were probably fairly mild and easily treatable. Claiming “hearing loss” is a bit of stretch. But, it matters very little in the end. The lawyers will get their huge cuts of the settlement pie and all the afflicted customers will get coupons for free poutine at the local Harvey’s …
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