Much less flow in pool ...

I started noticing a week or two ago that my polaris 280 was running very slow. I finally got some time to check it out and have a bit of a puzzle. I have a pentair pump going into a pentair filter (cartridge) which then hits a backflow preventer valve on to a flow measurement in line gauge, into a pentair heater, and to the return line back to pool. This is showing a flow rate of about half what it would normally show. PSI at the tank is 30 psi. I figured something might be blocked as we recently had heavy rains so I cleaned out the basket sweep and the basket in the pump.

After I turned on the pump again, it seemed to prime on its own but it took longer than normal and I had to put it on a higher speed (I just went from 2800 to 3400 or so RPM. It is clear that there is a flow issue "somewhere" - return valves are open, etc... But not sure how to figure out "where". Could the intake line from the sweep be plugged somehow?

Rapid pH increase with SWCG

Guys, I'm losing my mind with this pool. I've scoured all the threads on this topic here and in other forums. I've tried every "remedy" I could find, and yet, here I am, dumping gallons of acid in at a time only to come back a few days later to pH > 8.0. I've always felt I was very diligent with my pool, chems, testing, and cleaning. But I'm seriously contemplating filling this sucker in.

OK. So this spring I converted to SWCG from trichlor tabs. I know SWCG create pH rise, but this is ridiculous. I already suffer with respiratory issues and handling Muriatic Acid in such volumes so often is actually not good for me. I ask that any of you take a look at my PoolMath Logs (PoolMath Logs). Last year, before SWCG, I was able to maintain pH incredibly, only occasionally adding chems to raise/lower to my desired pH (which was 7.6). However, you can see this year it's been an incredible struggle that I cannot seem to win. So far this season I've added almost 1,200 oz of MAcid, not including the 404 oz added as part of my borate attempt (below). Pool store loves me!

If you look at the logs starting 9/6 - You see I had pH of 8.4, added 1 gal of MA to bring down to pH of 7.5. 24 hours later I'm up to 7.8, and 24 hours after that 8.3.

What I've tried:
  1. Reduced SWCG/pump run time - I used to run my intelliflo pump 24/7. I quickly realized this was too much chlorine generation. I now only run 12 hours a day with my IC40 at the 4% output. My chlorine seems to be stable with that setting. Any less and I can't maintain a target of 4-6 FC.
  2. Lower TA to 60 - Per numerous suggestions to lower TA to 60 I performed a series of acid additions and aeration to bring the TA to 60. However, it would never hold. And the pH was no more stable after the TA drop, then before. As you can see, my pool seems to want to be at 70 TA. Except for this past week I was away on vacation and the TA pushed up to 120. I just added dose 1 of MA to bring my pH down to 7-7.2 so I can aerate.
    1. Result - pH rises rapidly despite the lower TA.
  3. Borates - Lastly, I tried boric acid. I'm now sitting at borates of 38ppm, but nothing has changed with the pH. It rises just as fast now as before. Only now I have to add so much more MAcid to lower the pH. Costing me more in chemicals now than before.
This just seems excessive. I see folks here stating they have to add a bit of acid every few weeks, but nothing of the likes I'm experiencing. I'm at a loss and open to any and all suggestions here. This has been a miserable pool season for me, which is the opposite of what I expected with the SWCG conversion. I'm truly at a loss.

Thank you in advance for any and all comments, questions, and support.

Pool details
  • 20,000 plaster roman style
  • Intelliflo (running 2000rpm 12 hours a day 8A-8P)
  • IC40 SWCG (running at 4%)
  • QuadDE filter (100sqft)

Is this normal or should I be worried?

New construction colored plaster is 7 days young. Since day 1 of fill plaster has had lighter colored areas. I just want to know if everything is going to even out or are these areas of light and dark here to stay? Of course I signed a colored plaster waiver but it said may have “some” discoloration and might become mottled “eventually”. It didnt say “extensive” and “immediately”. Is the difference in coloring part of the curing process or is this what im gonna have to look at forever.C793C88F-D1D5-49CD-AB7C-9107C12C2F87.jpeg59F6E006-AA1D-4CA5-8ABC-023FB1AF2271.jpegB9B8EFB6-23CF-4BD8-B8E6-79A7FD70D27A.jpeg8822D04B-3613-4404-A6AA-8838684F7588.jpegView attachment 379788View attachment 3797893559CC17-6CAB-4110-9811-9C2293E41196.jpeg6C2682BC-03BC-4E1E-94E1-2DE805C9510F.jpegC793C88F-D1D5-49CD-AB7C-9107C12C2F87.jpegC793C88F-D1D5-49CD-AB7C-9107C12C2F87.jpeg59F6E006-AA1D-4CA5-8ABC-023FB1AF2271.jpegB9B8EFB6-23CF-4BD8-B8E6-79A7FD70D27A.jpeg8822D04B-3613-4404-A6AA-8838684F7588.jpegView attachment 379788View attachment 3797893559CC17-6CAB-4110-9811-9C2293E41196.jpeg

New Pool with Algae

Our in-ground pool was recently finished a few weeks ago. We just now got the equipment installed so now our water is green & brown. We tested the water and found our FC was 0 and CYA was also 0. We live in a rural area and are limited with supplies due to being out of season. We are unable to get any stabilizer so we shocked our pool. Our FC level has been high for 2 days now. Is this normal? Does shock raise your CYA? Should we Floc now and then vacuum to waste?


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Kreepy Krauly suggestion

Hi, My pool has the in-floor cleaning system, but previous owners plugged the main floor drain. The effect is that all debris sit on the floor. I brush every 2-3 days and vacuum once a week, but I need some help :D (too many chores!). I'm not sure what was the reason or thinking to plugged the main drain but I think the fastest solution would be to get a kreepy krauly. Do you have any suggestion which one I should get? Or which one NOT to buy it? Thanks!

High CC but clear water

Yesterday, I added several pounds of dichlor shock to get FC up to shock level, in preparation for closing on Monday. A lot of leaves blew into the pool overnight which apparently caused havoc with my water chemistry because it is showing a CC level of 1.5 now. It also showed that I lost at least 2 ppms of chlorine overnight. Water looks crystal clear and FC was high so I was surprised to see that. If leaves can cause CC to increase that much, I don’t know how I’m going to get rid of the CC before closing because I can’t keep leaves out of my pool right now. The leaf problem is so bad that I have to dump my skimmer basket out twice a day and I’m spending 30 minutes a day removing leaves with a net. Do I need to be worried about the high CC level since I’m closing on Monday with polyquat and my water is clear? I really don’t have time to do a lengthy SLAM right now because I need FC to drift down some before closing on Monday to add the polyquat. Could I get rid of the CC any other way other than doing a SLAM? I’ve heard that MPS non-chlorine shock can reduce CC levels but I wasn’t sure if it would be advisable to use that.

Pentair Easytouch 8 with Raypak Heater

Hi all - I recently had the easytouch 8 system added to my pool along with the wireless ScreenLogic system. I have a NG raypak 400k heater. The issue is when I adjust the temp in the ScreenLogic app it does not change the temp on the heater. I noticed this bc I had the ScreenLogic set at 85 degrees for 2 days and ghe pool never got above 82. I looked at the heater and it was set to 84 and was reading a water temp of 84 so therefore turned itself off I guess? I realize the water temps will vary but I want the ScreenLogic to set the desired temp and it’s water temp reading to determine on/off for the heater. Any help?

What to do with pool in freezing IA winter?

New pool owner here. I have a Bestway ABG vinyl pool, 24 ft. With summer coming to an end here in IA soon, I am now wondering what to do in winter with it? I really do not want to take it down and put it away. I'd rather not drain 13k gallons of water if it can be helped. I'm looking for best advice on how to leave the pool up during the winter.

How do you close it and winterize it?
I've been reading for a while, but most closing threads seem to be milder climates.

The pool came with a cover. So I was thinking drain the pool below the intakes, take off the pump and hoses and put them in the basement. Plug up the 2 inlets with the little plugs that came with the pool.
How would you plug the return outlet? Or just leave the hole in the liner open?

Pool came with a solid cover. Do you do a Cover or No Cover? Wondering what to do about snow or melting snow/rain if I cover it? Or do I just go with no cover, and deal with leaves in the spring after thawing? I can try skimming them/sucking them up with my poolmaster big sucker, which uses a garden hose so no need for the pump, until it freezes.

At some point the pool will freeze solid like a giant hockey puck. Is that ok?

How do you prepare the water for freezing winter? Without a pump to circulate chemicals, do you need to mix chlorine somehow until it freezes?

Those are just of my initial questions at this point. Thank you!

Final stages completed

As a complete beginner to owning a pool, our pool got it's final parts fitted today.
I wanted a 7M x 3.5M pool, my wife did not want to give up any of her garden so guess what size we ended up with, 6M x 2.5M!
OK, not huge but sufficient to cool off from the Brazilian heat and easier to maintain.
We contacted a few companies here in Santa Catarina and decided on IGUI for a supplier after checking up on previous installations by them. We gave them the contract to install the pool and hired a local contractor for the other works, the electrics and drainage work I did my self. The excavation and install went without a hitch but a change in weather hampered the surrounding construction. A break in the weather allowed it to progress and work proceeded reasonably well. Concreting, retaining walls and tiling done I was left with the additional work that required a pathway and the design of a suitable cascade as the ones I looked at were either crappy looking fibre glass or inox piping, neither of which I liked.
I opted for designing a cascade made from granite based on a video I saw on YouTube.
Cleaning the pool to a standard acceptable and balancing the chemistry wasn't a hardship as we opted for a non chlorine system from IGUI negating the use of chlorine and associated chemistry. The pool maintains a pH value of 7.6 and filtration is done with a fibre system instead of sand with filter bags than can be thrown in the washer.
Hopefully the pool will give us a lot of pleasure and I am open to comments in regards to the pictorial history of the build in the media section and my commentary here.


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FAS-DPD Keeps Returning to Pink


I've been using the Taylor K-2006C for close to 15 years. Both pool and spa are chlorine sanitized.

Late this last summer I noticed an anomaly while testing the hot tub. After adding enough DPD reagent to clear the water... the water would slowly become just a tiny bit pink again. I'd add another drop... same result. And so on and so on. CC was <0.5. Or was it...?

The tub was not heavily used and I had SLAMed and left the lid off all day on a couple of warm sunny days in a row. One would assume my CCs were zero. Yet same result.

I just completed a drain, refill, shock and balance and I'm still running into this issue.

This phenomenon does not occur with my pool water.

Your thoughts are appreciated...

New Pool, North Atlanta, GA

Hello everyone, long-time lurker, first-time poster here. Great, great forum with tonnes of info that I've been combing through in preparation for our pool build in North Atlanta, GA. I'll share a little bit about our family and intended pool use as that will help with decision making as we continue. We are a 3.5 unit family with a 9 year old boy. 9 and a half if you ask him, and a little girl on the way this September. Two very high energy German Shorthaired Pointers who will no doubt be in the pool, and a southeasterly-facing back garden. This will be a mostly leisure pool but I wanted a longish section that could act as a swim lane should I get the urge. It will be a short swimlane but if I just count laps then I should end up with a nice, high number ;-). We do have a buffer that we can't build in that covers the last 20ft of our back garden, and we already have an outside fireplace and retaining wall/slope that will be the perimeter for the other side of the pool. I've attached a photo of the plan so you can see the current setup and better understand why the decking doesn't surround the spa. The spa butts right up against the no-build perimeter.

The pool will be about 36.5' long and 19' at it's widest point. Shallow end water depth is 3.5' and deep end is 7'. No sun deck but we will have a few bench seats including one under the spa overflow. Some other equipment notes:
-The sun travels from around the top leftish corner to the bottom rightish corner of the attached plan with the pool being in the sun probably from 9:30am until about 4pm before some tree shadows crawl across the pool from the bottom of the page up
-(edit) we we’re thinking about a UV system but I just couldn’t find much info about how to maintain it, and with all of the great info on this site I decidEd to switch to a salt system. Pass me that coolaid please
-Pool surface will be pebblesheen although we're still working through colours (edit: we like ocean blue)
-Coping will likely be Pennsylvania blue stone and decking will be a brown/tan stone to match other decking we have. That's not mentioned on the attached plan but the builder is working on the quote. We'll likely expand the decking area to the left and right of the pool too
-2 skimmers, 3 returns, and currently 2 lights in the pool and 1 in the spa although I'm reading in this forum we may need to add one more light to the pool for a 523sqft pool
-Pentair equipment but I don't have model numbers yet
-Easy touch a d screen logic automation although I read we should upgrade to the Intellicenter system and possibly even buy the version specifically for the SWCG so we can be ready if we need to be
-I removed the pool vac and will spend the savings on a robot cleaner
-We're also adding a sauna cabin to the gravel section you see on the left. The pool then becomes the plunge pool for those who dare in the winter!
-399BTU gas heater
-The ground the pool will be dug into is probably 4-5 feet about our home, hence the steps leading down to our home at the top of the pool
-We removed probably 12-13 pines and other trees to make space for the pool. There are still trees around so we're expecting pine needles and leaf fall
-We signed the agreement back in Feb and dig day is going to be in the next week or two - we have sun for the next few days

So, what do you think? What else can I tell you? Thanks all, Daniel.


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Featured Hayward ecostar on generator

Trying to test run our pump on a generator if needed during a freeze. It’s a Hayward eco star variable speed. The display goes blank when plugged into the generator but the buttons are lit up. Does anyone know a solution to this or why it’s happening,


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New Pool in Leander, Texas - Plumbing Time

Despite my trepidations, we have entered contract on a new pool build here in Leander, TX. Never owned a pool before, but wife really wanted one. So here we are. Current rough estimate is to start in September after HOA and city permits are done. Expected to be 4-5 months after that before completion.

I'll try to keep this updated as we work through the process. I'm hoping it will be relatively smooth, I chose this builder because it's the same one that has done all the pools on my street, (4 currently, it's a new street) and all had good experiences.

I expect and am prepared for delays due to shortages in materials and sub contractors. Hopefully they won't be too bad.

General Specifications
Pool Dimensions: 16'8" x 35'6"
Pool Perimeter: 95 ft
Pool Surface Area: 513 sqft
Pool Depth: 3.5ft x 4.75ft x 6ft
Spa Dimensions: 8 ft Circle
Spa Perimeter: 26 ft
Spa Surface Area: 51 ft
Spa Raised: 18 inches from deck.
Spa Depth: 3.5ft
Total Gallons: 18,156 (adjusted for tan shelf)

Pool Pipes: Upto 3 inch Schedule 40 PVC.
Returns: (6) Directional flush mount inlets, placed for maximum efficiency.
Skimmers: (2) Aquastar Skimmer, Indepenendently plumbed for optimum control.
Drains: (1) MDX debris removal drain, (5) 10 inch SDX, VGB compliant. - w/ Paramount Leaf Canister.
Spa Pipes: 3 inch Suction, 2 1/2 inch Return Schedule 40 PVC
Spa Jets: (6) Deluxe Therapy Jets
Spa Air: 1.5 inch dedicated air line.
Spa Drain: Aquastar Circle Drain, flush mount finish, VGB compliant
Fill Line: N/A
Overflow Line: included
Cleaner Line: (1) Independently plumbed

Pool Shell: 1/2 inch Steel Rebar on 10 inch Centers, both ways.
Pool Bond Beam: 1/2 inch Steel Rebar X 4
Concrete: Dry Mix Gunite rated to exceed APSP Building Standards
Thickness: 12" Bond Beam, 8-10" Walls/Floor All elevated/exposed walls to be 12"
Pool/Spa Tile: 6" Band at waterline, Frost-proof - Std Selection
Pool Coping: Lueder Coping
Spa Coping: Lueder Coping
Spa Facing: Custom Material
Raised Beam: 15 sqft, faced with Custom Material

Primary Pump: Pentair IntelliFlo VSF
Feature Pump #1: Pentair IntelliFlo I2
Filter: Pentair Clean & Clear 420 Cartridge
Heater/Chiller: Pentair MasterTemp 400k - NG
Air: Blower - Jandy 1.5HP
Cleaner: Paramount PV3 w/ MDX & Leaf Canister (25 heads)
Control Box: Pentair EasyTouch PS-8
Remotes: Screen Logic Bundle (adapter & wireless kit)
Sanitizers: In-Line Chlor w/ Ultra UV Sys
Additional Actuators: 1 additional 2 actuators included with automation
Pool Lights: (3) Pentair GloBrite LED 12v - Pool
Spa Lights: (1) Pentair GloBrite LED 12v - Spa
Poured/Precast Pad: Delayed Equipment Set W/ Precast Pad

Deck Jets: (3) independently valved for control.
Bubbler - 1 Nozzle: (1) Control valve included.
Spa Spillway: (1) Stone or Tile Spillways.

24' ABG - need help with wiring for SWCG RJ-45 and Hayward Pump

I purchased an auroroa 24' round pool and replacing the one I have, it should be here next week, pool is scheduled to be installed on Nov. 11, digging it down 27 inches. I am relocating pump and filter tp behind my shed so am running new wiring for that (run through pipe underground). I bought a new 2 speed Hayward Matrix pump (I see that many on here use that one) and it is a 110V model. I also bought an RJ-45 SWCG and that is set up from the factory as 240V, but can be modified to 110V. My questions are: Should I run Wiring for 240 to the SWG? or run wiring for 110V and then modify the RJ-45 (have to remove a jumper or something) to work on 110V? If I go all 110, should I put the SWCG and the pump on separate breakers? 20 Amp breakers? The pump has a 6 foot pigtail on it already, so I was just going to run the wiring to my shed and mount a GFI outlet (could plug other stuff in then also if I wanted) and plug it in. I assumed (yes, I know what assume means ;)) that the RJ-45 would just plug in to a 110V outlet also, but was wrong about that. its a hard wired unit and 240 from the factory, but adjustable to 110V. Any advice on this would be appreciated, as I would like to try and get all this done and ready before the install on the 11th of Nov.

SWG has suddenly reduced Chlorine production

Hello. I have a Hayward 925 SWG. It's been running for about 3 weeks, and I finally nailed down the schedule to keep me at an FC of 5ppm. The SWG runs for about 4 hours/day at 25%; broken into 2 cycles.
Our heater has been in place since the build, but just recently got the gas hooked up - we were waiting on the 2# meter. Started the heater last Thursday and within 6 hours we went from 68F to 89F and it was GLORIOUS. We swam on Friday, and had a few neighbors over on Saturday and Sunday. I noticed on Sunday that the FC was ~2.5 at 9am. I ASSumed it was possibly the high bather load (there were 5 people in the pool at max for all 3 days). Yesterday I tested at 8pm - still 2.5. So I turned on a 3rd cycle of 25% for 2 hours. I just tested at 8am (before the sun hits the pool) and it's still an FC of 2.5.

I haven't taken the cell out for inspection yet (I've never done that before) but I wanted to ask the forum before I touched anything else. Could the heater have somehow impacted the SWG? Is it expected to have reduced production after blasting it with hot water for a few days? The heater hasn't been on since Sunday afternoon.

Contract Phase

This site is overwhelmingly helpful! Thanks to folks that gave me recent assistance on picking equipment. The plan is to install a 16 x 32 inground vinyl pool. We have a quote / contract from our builder (attached) and I was wondering if there is anything we are forgetting. Also, I am wondering how many skimmers and return jets do I need? Builder is proposing 1 skimmer, 2 jets. Is that adequate? TIA!


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Featured Southern Indiana Tiny 'lil FG Build

Hello All,

I've been cruising this site for several years yet I do not have a pool - it's a long story.

However, our local PB is starting on a fiberglass build in November '21 in our Southern Indiana back yard. The pool shell was constructed last year, equipment is in-stock thanks to a pool builder who pre-buys everything, and they say our build is on-schedule.

Below are the details of our current plan. My main questions are;

  1. Any suggestions on the skimmer/return layout?
  2. Should I have them include a side vacuum port? Not sure if this is normal for them, may be for all I know.
  3. Any other equipment suggestions?
  4. Any other suggestions on how to make the pool as low-maintenance as possible, given the extreme amount of leaves?

Overall goal:
  • We want a small pool, even though we have two boys. We live across the street from the city olympic sized pool with slides, etc which is a great pool. This is a little spot to cool off on hot days, have a drink with friends, and shoot some hoops. We also want to keep some grass for aesthetic reasons and for my two little dogs.
  • We've had a landscape designer lay out the whole yard with the goal of making the landscaping, hardscaping, and pool look like they were put in with the house in the 1920s. This is mostly related to the layout, the plants, decking, etc. I'm good with the fiberglass pool, but we may end up doing water line tile depending on how it looks when finished...

My yard:
  • 95 year old home, detached garage
  • Tons of big trees - two of them that are near and even over the pool that are estimated to be 80 and 100 years old, respectively. The trees are in fantastic health, but they do lose leaves in July/August when heat stressed, and the 100 year old tree is a 90+ft tulip poplar that also drops tulips and the related mess about 4 times a year.
  • THE TREES ARE STAYING!!! :ROFLMAO: I know I have to say that to you folks
  • We will trim the trees back (as we do every other year) to give the desired level of sun and reduce leaf load a bit
  • Most of the yard is done. This is because we decided years ago that we "didn't want a pool" so we moved ahead with the yard. Whoops... Our patio brick contractor is ready to help redo portions of the patio that need to be removed and adjusted after the pool and decking are complete.

The Pool:
  • Thursday Pools Sea Turtle - 10' x 20' x 4'6" all of the way across, with benches on half of it
  • Graphite color
  • May DIY some water line tile later on, depending on looks

  • 1x skimmer, no bottom drains. I've put skimmer placement in image below - look OK?
  • No mention of a side vac port, but this seems like a good idea - right?
  • 2x returns - Shouldn't I have more? Especially with the need for moving water on the surface to remove leaf debris.
    • I'd like 1 extra near the skimmer for a PoolSkim
    • We've also asked for a line for a fountain
    • I've added like 5 returns in the image below, but perhaps the velocity will be too low out of each?
  • Hayward S210 sand filter (44 GPM, 2.2 ft^2 filter area, 200 lb sand)
  • Hayward Super Pump VS - model # not yet provided by PB
  • Hayward H200FD 200k BTU natural gas heater
  • Hayward AquaRite 900 - 40,000 gal SWCG
    • PB has suggested that we go with a 25k gallon at the same price. I want the big one.
  • 1x Hayward ColorLogic 320 LED light & knob controller thingie
    • According to Hayward's size chart, a single 320 is sufficient for my pool
  • Not sure which robot, but a Dolphin of some kind based on my positive experience maintaining my neighbor's pool for the last several years when they travel
  • 2 foot wide cantilevered concrete deck around the 3 sides of the pool that meet up with grass
  • 3 foot wide decking on the stair side that meets with the clay brick
  • We want a straight/flat edge and a sand wash finish using a retarder. This was recommended by our landscape architect who is trying to get it as close to the local limestone as possible without us having to pay for limestone coping. South central Indiana, where we live, is famous for it's limestone, and we have some on the front of the house we want to mimic.
    • Pool builder has spoken to his concrete sub and they say this is no problem
    • However - this part seems to be stressing my wife and I out more than the rest of the pool build!

Testing Equip
  • I've already got a Taylor K2006c, K1766, speed stir
  • My fill water:
    • pH: 7.8, though this seems higher than our local water report, so I'll retest
    • CH: 220 ppm - surprised it's not higher, our water leaves calcium rocks on everything it touches. Hardest water ever… has me concerned.
    • TA: 190-200 ppm

Images attached show yard as it stands today, as well as my amateur PowerPoint work - using the landscape architect's plans and pasting the pool over top. The large red outline circles represent approximate tree canopy, which will be trimmed to remove branches over the pool.

You all are great, thanks for letting me lurk and learn so much! Sorry for the novel, but I'll use this as my build thread and there will be a payoff for others looking to learn


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New Liner, Fresh Water, Immediate Close Balance Recommendations

New to me (DEC 2020) pool, new Liner tomorrow! Store called at noon today and said we are coming tomorrow, have the pool drained. I had prepared and tested my sump. 21 hours. That means if I get it it NOW it will be ready by 9am. Scrambled and got it going. So far so good!

I have to close this pool, after filling and balancing. I have 3-4 days before I need to travel.

TAP results: pH 8 or 8++, TA 110

Found most of my answers on balancing, and if I needed CYA for winter (no), through search here.

Very specific question I couldn't find answers for:
1) My pH was in the 6s when we opened this spring. Not sure if that was due to whatever they put in in the fall, or that's what happens over the winter in Ohio. Any specific recommendations on TA and pH for close? I figured I'd just get the pH down to 7.4-7.6 and go. Was wondering if TA=100 would cause pH to rise over winter. (Will likely pull a corner every month and test. If it radically rises or drops, put sump in for 2-3 hours and balance).
2) Will follow the TFP winterization recommendations best I can within my time constraints (raise FC and Add Polyquat 60). The question is...if I have no CYA in the pool, what should my target FC be?
3) Would be easier to blow out lines now, fill to just below skimmer. However, I need to circulate LC and MA. Is a sump pump on the bottom sufficient to circulate? (I speculate yes).


New Build - Richmond VA

90044B69-1A29-44C3-8F36-0FE801A5D8CD.jpeg90044B69-1A29-44C3-8F36-0FE801A5D8CD.jpegThis site is overwhelmingly helpful! Thanks to folks that gave me recent assistance on picking equipment. The plan is to install a 16 x 32 inground vinyl pool. We have a quote / contract from our builder (attached) and I was wondering if there is anything we are forgetting. Also, I am wondering how many skimmers and return jets do I need? Builder is proposing 1 skimmer, 2 jets. Is that adequate? TIA!90044B69-1A29-44C3-8F36-0FE801A5D8CD.jpeg90044B69-1A29-44C3-8F36-0FE801A5D8CD.jpeg

Pebble done!

Just got pebble done this morning, acid wash tomorrow than pool fill!

It looks like they left quite a mess on the glass tiles, does that get cleaned off as part of acid wash or should I be concerned about that now?

Tested my tap water last night, gonna run over to Leslie's today or tomorrow to buy some chemicals. I already have chlorine, but thinking I need some muriatic acid, calcium chloride and CYA to start?

According to the start up instructions, for day 1 after fill it looks like I need to bring my TA down to 80. I think everything else looks good for now until I put chlorine in after 48 hours?

Cl: .5
pH: 7.6
Ch: 150ppm
TA: 90


Sand filter for new pool?

Hi everyone! I'm new to this forum and soon to be new to pool ownership - my liner pool is going in next summer. We are currently in the finalization stage for all the pool components, and I'm struggling with what type of filter to go with. I've been told to go with sand because it's so easy to use, and it will filter great as long as you keep your water chemistry good. The pool company recommends DE because it filters the smallest particles and keeps the water the clearest, but they will put in whatever I want. I've researched filters extensively on this forum, so I'm aware of the basic differences and the ways people try to get better filtering from sand (add DE to the skimmer, use different media, cover the skimmer baskets with socks, etc), and I'm comfortable using chemistry and SLAM to take care of algae and the such while letting my filter take care of dirt and debris, but I have no actual experience at this point.

My pool will have a heavy "kid" load (lots of sunscreen, oils, dirty bodies, etc) so my questions are as follows:
1. Can sand be made to filter out the small oil particles from the sunscreen, body oil, etc., or will those just keep circulating and collecting in my pool with a sand filter?
2. Can any of the alternate methods of improving the filtering ability of the sand (add DE, use zeo, glass, etc) really get the clean clear water that a DE filter can? What is recommended to get the best filtering from sand?
3. If I'm going to all these lengths to make a sand filter do the work of a DE filter, am I better off just going with a DE filter and dealing with the maintenance?

My liner pool is 20x44 and around 27,000 gallons with a VSP. It's in a wide open yard without any trees really close to it (not much shade), but lots of trees/brush/woods in the farther out surrounding area.
The sand filter offered is Pentair Tagelus 100D. The DE filter is Pentair FNS.
I live in the midwest, so pool season is basically May - September (on a good year). The pool has an autocover that will be on it any time people aren't in it, but the pool will be used daily in the summer with a high people load many of those days.

If any more information is needed, please let me know. I'm just looking either for confirmation that sand can/will filter all the small nasties from dirty kids out of the water (and the best method for doing it), or that my situation dictates using DE and dealing with a higher maintenance level. Or a different option?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Liner replacement/wall repair

We plan to replace the liner on our 28' AGP early next spring. We also need to check the interior wall for damage because the outside of the wall is showing multiple rust places (photos attached). Is it ok to leave the pool 2/3 full and uncovered over the winter? Once we are ready to remove the old liner, how do we get ALL the water out? Should we go ahead and hire someone now to do the repairs/change the liner - with the plan to have the work done next Feb-April?


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First pool Tampa area - 6 months. And counting.

Hello all! Been reading a lot on this site...still a lot more to learn...below is what is proposed with the PB that I'm leaning towards.
54' long; 8'-11' wide (will be 15' wide at sunshelf)
3.5' - 6' deep (may change to 4' - 6')
about 20k gallons by my calc (need to confirm)
(2) Pentair 3HP VS pumps - one for pool; one for water features (2 bowls, 1 sheer decent)
EasyTouch 8 with Screen Logic (I'm going to ask why not the Intellicenter)
Pentair Salt generator (need to ask PB which one)
3 Pentair LED Color pool lights (need to ask which voltage)
Quad DE filter (probably switch to cartridge)
Sunshelf with umbrella sleeve
travertine deck
WetEdge Signature matrix level 1
3 returns
2 skimmers
pool cage
Going to ask if auto leveler is an option

We're going to get a separate hot tub at some point. PB to run conduit to where hot tub will be.

Any thoughts or suggestions? I only have 26' between the house and a retaining wall so I'm a bit limited on how wide I can make this.1601749417816.png


Help! New pool issues

I am having a heck of a time with my pool construction and I have a question regarding costs.

background: in March 2021 I signed a contract for a new pool and hot tub to be built in Tampa, Florida. We are getting travertine decking and the pool is 12,600 gallons, free form. When we signed the contract I picked out a glass 1’x1’ sheet waterline tile but didn’t love it. The pool company said I could pick out my own, so in April after I found one I liked I brought it in, they said it would work, and credited the remaining amount due for the price of the tile ($485 for 90sqft). The tile I picked was not glass, it was a slate material and hexagon shaped 1’x1’ sheet. Well, I subsequently found a glass tile I like even more (pool is now dug but nothing has happened besides that, which is another issue entirely). So, I let the company know I picked a different tile, but I am still buying it myself so I didn’t expect anything other than a “that’s nice” in response. Now I am being told that because it’s a glass tile (like the one I originally picked in March but not like the one I brought in in April) I will be charged more for the installation. Is this normal?
For reference, the pool isn’t particularly huge and has a sun shelf and a hot tub as well as a little bench in the deep end. It’s 6’ deep and I will have a salt water system and de filter. The total cost is $70k, which just seems outrageously high for what I am getting, and now they want even more money because I picked a different tile. Am I crazy? Is this industry standard?

Build Progress South Georgia - Shotcrete! (Finally)

I've enjoyed reading other build threads, and finally able to start my own. We broke ground last week, and digging/framing is now complete. The frames are above grade because we are raising it up so the finished deck is meeting the height of our porch/patio

Fairly straightforward design, we wanted to maximize the swimming space and we have plenty of area in the back yard to use. We plan to actually swim and don't need a lot of features. Going to add lots of landscaping in phase 2 (probably next year).

18x36 Gunite with 8 ft. deep end
7x7 spillover spa. PB says 6-9 jets will be just fine with our 3HP pump.
Wetedge Luna Quartz Montego
Travertine Ivory decking - 1400sqft total
Pentair equipment - EasyTouch w/screenlogic, sand filter, SWG
LP Heater 400k
Heat pump & Chiller
Spa spillover is the only water feature.
PB has included a Polaris automated clean with a booster pump ... but I'm not 100% on this. Might remove it.

Hitting some delays due to the tropical storm passing over today, but should be onto the rebar and gunite pretty soon!


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