How high do you run your SWCG?

I finally broke down and made the switch to a SWCG because the availability and climbing price of liquid chlorine was taking away from my enjoyment of the pool.
I bought the Circupool RJ-45 Plus, which is 'sized' for a 45,000 gallong pool. My pool is around 24k gallons, and the increase in price wasn't a lot to go bigger.


Obviously the size of your SWCG vs pool size, how much sun you get, whether you cover the pool or not, CYA levels, how much contamination you get from swimming, weather, etc. all make a difference in chlorine demand......I'm curious: What level do you run your SWCG to maintain chlorine most of the time?
I do keep the solar cover on and assumed I would need to keep the SWCG at about 25% (I run the pump full time) to maintain adequate free chlorine.

I have it set at 5% and am just about at equilibrium for what I need to maintain FC levels where the charts here advise.

Krystal Clear Ozone & Saltwater System questions

My first question is what is the salt cell % on this system. I have tried googling but cannot find any info. Would love to plug the right % into the pool math app.

My other question is concerning the electrode self-clean. When you set it does that mean it runs for 6 (or 10 or 14) hours straight or it just reverses polarity every 6/10/14 hours that it is running? I want to make sure that I do not need to run the pump longer (or manually if 14 hrs straight) or it’s just set it & go because it just does while it is in it’s normal run time so no need to adjust pump times.

Thanks all!

Hope I am doing it right

Heya all!

It has been a week since my newbie self set our pool up. It has been crystal clear so far….yay!

I have been testing a lot…twice a day…trying to get used to it all. I suspected I will have a few ‘user errors’ testing while getting aquainted with it all. I am guessing I will need to order more test refills due to all my testing to learn lol. How low should I go before reordering because I do not want to be out & blind?

My TA has been high the entire time (but just read that could be due to static & to wipe with damp cloth so will do that next test). pH has not gone up crazy (but has only been a week) & I am planning to lower it at pH 8 to help control TA (read that as long as pH not crazy, FC & CC pretty stable …do not worry so much about TA). I have added a gallon of Muriatic Acid so far & lowered TA a little.

My main concerns were raising my CYA (which I have done) & trying to make sure my FC in range. I have been running pump (sand filter) for 8 hrs & SWG for 7 hours twice a day with breaks between. Yesterday, I ran my SWG & pump less to see if I could maintain because I do not want to overwork them & my FC dropped from 6.5 to 3.5. I am guessing I need to run them like I was since that kept FC stable.

I ran pump & SWG and it brought it back up to 4.5 and conducted an OCLT and it seemed alright (not algae etc eating it up) since my FC this morning 4.0 & CC still at 0.5. Just want to make sure I am doing the right things, interpreting them right & maintaining them right before I run into trouble. I have a tendency to overthink things lol.

I am surprised it is doing so well considering my TA so high but have not been freaking out about it watching my pH. I read about the static on the tips & will wipe with damp cloth next test to see if makes a difference.

My questions: Should I add my liquid chlorine to bring it back up to 6ppm or let my SWG do it by running it more often like I was (7 hrs at twice a day)? And how much Muriatic acid do you think I will need if static not the problem since I have been ordering online & would be nice to have it on hand instead of let it go for days waiting for order to arrive? Or do not sweat it & ordering a gallon a week is all good? Also I would like to order a variable speed pump for next year…what would you recommend for an AGP of 7000 gallons that has plug for outlet? And am I overworking them all & need a new SWG that will keep up with the VS pump? I also plan to upgrade to 16” sand filter. Overkill or will my stuff last running twice a day at pump for 8 hrs & SWG (I got the 15,000 gal to process twice as much for my 6981 gal pool) at 7 hrs?

These were my last results using 2006C test & the saltwater test as extra & have the smart stir (not counting the OCLT test) on 6/26 11:50pm

FC 4.5 ppm
CC 0.5 ppm
pH 7.8
TA 300 ppm
CH 150 ppm
CYA 80 ppm
Saltwater 2600 ppm

The OCLT test at 5:30 am
FC 4.0 ppm
CC 0.5 ppm

Refurbishing a Cool Pool

Hello, in years past we used a liner. WoW what a mistake, fir the liners are so unstable ! So as you can imagine the present pool is NAKED. Going back with gunnite. Seems like the most reasonable for years of service. Rather than a couple of seasons. The people are coming out Thursday the 29th to see if the project is possible. Will check in later.

Best,

Penny F. Huey
Kilgore, Tx.

Confirming basics as I start pool maintenance

Hi all - I'm a new pool owner (~1 year) and just decided to take over the pool maintenance from the company that was doing it. After doing research here, and elsewhere, I just want to confirm the following:

1. From a "is it safe to swim" perspective, the main things to worry about are chlorine levels and ph levels. Correct?

2. From a "maintain pool well" perspective, the there are additional things to check/maintain like, alkalinity, copper, calcium, CYA, TDS. Anything else? Sulphates maybe? Phosphates? (Would you put anything here in category #1?)

3. My pool is an indoor pool and as far as I know has never been drained/refilled. I know outdoor pools regularly undergo this process -- should I be doing this periodically for my indoor pool too, or only if something goes seriously wrong?

4. An article on this forum says to never wear a half-mask respirator when using acid, but if I combine it with goggles, it seems like that should be fine. Any concerns? My muriatic acid will be stored outdoors in the open next to the house; the chlorine is in a cabinet in the pool room.

5. If my CYA is very low (less than 20) in an indoor pool, and I'm lazy and don't use the pool a lot anyway (once a week), how bad is it really to continue using the chlorine tablets that my previous service company was using? Besides CYA (which seems not to be a problem), I understand they will add sulphates into the pool? I suppose I should check those levels at some point.

Thanks all for your help.

Sand filter maintenance

I have a sand filter for my pool. I don't know what the previous owner did not not do. But I have this pool since over 3 years now and I have done nothing related to the sand filter. Is any kind of maintenance required for this?

I do backwash and rinse once in a while, but I have no idea why I do do it or how frequently I should be doing it or even if I am doing it right.

Any place where I can read about everything related to this subject?

Can't figure out stain

pool 1.jpgpool 2.jpg
It looks almost like there is sand in the pool. THe sad part is last season we drained the pool and had the pool acid & power washed. Refilled (well water) and got chemistry good except battled high PH all season for the first time. Salt cell pool also. Opened this year and found the staining...but it's NOT in the deep end. Only on the bench seat, sun deck and the shallow end. Water test said calcium hardness is 200, iron 0.1, copper is 0.1 too. Need help!

Pool base material

Installing a 15x30 from pool factory. I have had to build a compacted gravel pad for the pool due to water issues with the clay. I am finally finishing the leveling and compacting of it and time to build the pool. I have a gorilla pad and foam coping. I have a pile of mason sand and a pile of limestone dust(ag lime) here. Which should I use for the base? Wall rail is plastic so no rusting concern to speak of.

Gunite in Louisiana - Deck poured.

The dig starts for my pool in 11 days and I am very excited! We moved to this house in 2020 after Hurricane Laura damaged our first home. A pool was always in the plans but first we had to repair and sell the damaged home. We finally finished repairs, sold, picked a builder and got on the waiting list in early 2021.

We have 4 teenagers and 2 short fat bulldogs. I really wanted a hot tub and tanning ledge. Today we finalized the design and picked coping. I’m still trying to pick tile.

Basics
- 16 ft x 33 ft 11 in
- 5 ft 6 in deep end
- 7 ft x 7 ft raised spa, 6 jets
- 7 ft x 11 ft tanning ledge

Finish
- Diamond Brite French Gray finish
- Silver Travertine coping
- Waterline tile - color TBD
- 718 sq ft broom finish decking

Equipment
- Pentair Rainbow 320 chlorinator
- Pentair 520 cartridge filter with variable speed pump
- Microbrite LED lights (2 in pool, 1 on tanning ledge, 1 in spa)
- 400 kBTU Master Temp gas heater
- S200 Dolphin robot cleaner
- EZ Touch 4 with Screen Logic iPhone controls

Any advice/input is appreciated, especially around picking waterline tile colors!

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Pentair Mastertemp 250 heater that turns on, but shuts off after about 30 minutes

I have a Pentair Mastertemp 250 heater that turns on, heats the water (so gas is flowing), but shuts off after about 30 minutes, and red light shows up "service heater" There is no error codes. The heater is about 8 years old. I replaced the flue sensor about 4 years ago, and last year replaced the display. Any clue what that might be? There is plenty of water flow, filter is backwashed

IntelliBrite LED troubleshooting

Wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue.

Last night I switched my Intellibrite 5g color changing led light on and it turned off immediately and then I couldnt switch it on again using the Screenlogic App.

I tried switching it manually using the button on the Pentair control panel as well as using the menu option.

When trying it manually the led indicator lights up but no light in the pool

When using the menu option the indicator light blinks on and off and the panel makes a clicking noise.

I have tried turning off all breakers and resetting with no luck.

Wondering if I have a bad light.

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Skimmer versus main drain questions…

This week I have been catching up on a few items that were not properly taken care of or explained to me by my pool builder. The long story short is, thanks to this website and a little detective work, I was able to determine that the weir door and float valve were never installed in my skimmer. I also confirmed my main drains (there are two as required by code) are plumbed in series with the skimmer on the same suction line. I installed the missing weir door and float valve this week but I’m interested in advice/opinions on how to set the float valve "correctly". It seems like a lot of people on the forums say using the float valve and pulling water through the main drains are not important. Especially because I have an autofill and use a robotic cleaner.

However, I like the idea of keeping the float valve as a backup measure for pump protection and the use of the main drain for filtering and mixing water from areas other than the skimmer. My question is what to do with the flap on the bottom of the float valve? It seems very imprecise for finetuning the balance of skimmer suction versus drains. The flap also looks like it could get knocked out of position fairly easily. Am I wrong? Even with the flap fully open, the valve seems to drop the skimmer flow noticeably. I assume that means there is some suction from the main drain. Does anyone have any advice on what is necessary to get useful flow from both the skimmer and drains without running the pump at an unnecessarily high speed? Can I just remove the flap entirely and still get some suction from the drain? Does the flap need to be half-closed? A quarter? Is there an accurate way to set the split between the skimmer and drain with this setup, or is it just trial and error with the flap setting? (By the way, I have a Waterways skimmer with this type of float valve https://www.amazon.com/Waterway-Plastics-806105099358-Renegade-Skimmer/dp/B01N4OI7XA )

It's very possible I’m overthinking this but, then again, that's probably why I enjoy TFP so much 😉. Any advice or opinions on this topic are welcome, with thanks in advance.

Cellulose Fiber Clear conversion

I know a lot of people ask about switching from DE to Cellulose so I thought I would share my experience.

The main reason I wanted to switch was that I did not like the idea of having to use a mask and gloves with DE. I also have to discharge to my yard and I have pets. When I was using DE I always got that same itchy feeling you get when handling fiberglass insulation. I do not want that on me or my pets. The peace of mind that I am not using a Class 1 carcinogen (when airborne) is nice as well.

So here goes:

I started by fully back washing my filter including bumping several times. I opened my grid DE filter and low and behold it was still filthy. Lots of thick DE all over. I took the grids out and thoroughly cleaned them. Took about an hour to get all the caked on DE off. Unfortunately I did not take photos of before but it was a mess even with back washing. Below is photo once clean.



I then added Fiber Clear cellulose through the near skimmer per the directions. 11 cups for a 60 sq ft grid filter. I run my filter 24 hours a day. I run it at 2,000 RPM during the day and 1,800 RPM at night to save a little energy. At 2,000 RPM my pressure runs at 9 PSI after I put the Fiber Clear in. I was able to run the filter for 2 months before my pressure rose to 11-12 PSI and a noticed a significant drop off in return flow. In my pool that is the same as my experience with DE.

I know a few posts said they had issues with the pressure immediately going up and having to back wash almost immediately. I did not experience any of that. I do not know if it is because I thoroughly cleaned my grids first, or maybe something else about my setup, but for me no issues. My pool is just as clear if not clearer now using cellulose.

Here is picture of what the filter looked like before back washing the cellulose. It was filthy, as it should be. I did not have any of the heavy build up of product like other posts reported. It was a nice even coating of dirty media across all the grids.




The only somewhat concerning thing I did see was a heavy buildup of cellulose on the internal airbleed assembly (see pic below). It did not seem to affect performance but it was really thick.



I put the cover back on the filter and performed a back wash. I wanted to see how well the back wash worked since it did almost nothing when I first cleaned the filter with DE in it. Below is a picture after the back wash.



As you can see the back wash only cleaned the top half of the filter. I am convinced that the only real way to clean your filter whether using Cellulose or DE is to pop the top off the filter and clean it with a hose. It only takes about 20 minutes but it guarantees you have a clean filter. you just cannot rely on what is coming through the sight glass. Going forward I will do a short back wash to getthe big stuff out but then open and use a hose to get the rest. This will savea lots of conditioned water as well.



Once that was all done I put the top back on the filter and the pressure was back to 9 PSI. Good to go for another two months.

As far as cost goes I bought two 3 lbs bags of Fiber Clear on Amazon for $48.95. With my 60 Sq Ft filter that will give me three recharges. Since I get two months between cleanings that is enough for 6 months. I am in the northeast so I only have my pool open for 4 months. Less than $50 bucks a year guaranteed and no itchy "potentially" cancer causing media to deal with. I am sold on cellulose.

What Valves Should Get Actuators? AquaLink RS8

The pool company is finishing up my equipment installation and I want to be sure they install actuators on all of the valves that they should. I went with the RS8 so I can manually go to the pool equipment as little as possible. Can you please help me understand what valves should get actuators so I know what to look for? I appreciate any help.

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Concrete Sealer for Pool Deck

Hi - They just poured our concrete pool decking, about 1600 sq ft of broom-finished concrete. Right now, it's beautiful. Red mud is on every side and will be until we can finish pool and plant sod and do a pool house. How do you keep the red mud off of concrete? Our PB acts like it will be our problem. They actually come tomorrow to clean out the pool and prepare it for Pebbletec plaster. After the concrete has been down for 30 days, I'd like to use a penetrating sealer. No sealer has all great reviews, and there are some horror stories. What sealer did you all use and how did you like it? I'm particularly interested if anyone used SuperSeal M or Armor Foundation.

Thanks so much!
LaDonna

Heater left "on" when in Low Flow

If I have my heater "on" while there was not enough flow to engage the heater, would the heater get damaged while "on"?

Here is the situation, I have a Hayward XE pump which runs on a 4 hours/8 hour/12 hour cycle. I run the pump at about 2400 RPM during the first cycle (4 hours) and at a about 1600 RPM during the second cycle (8 hours). The heater will run fine at 2400 RPM, but when is goes to the second cycle, the flow is not high enough for the heater. If the heater is still on when the pump goes from 2400 RPM to 1600 RPM, will the heater get damaged during this time when flow is only 1600 RPM? I know the pressure switch will engaged and shut the heater "off" but the switch is still in the 'on' position and the power is still on as well because the pump is still on.

Autofill Never Stops Running

Hi, I just installed a new auto fill mechanism. Float-Tec Letro Pentair T26. Brass body. It won't stop running. It just a small trickle of flow, but it's constant. If I press down on the float, it turns on the full flow. If I lift the plastic float, the water flow will stop. Any ideas? Is there some adjustment to be made?

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RJ-60 vs PL7703 [potentially losing pool builder warranty]

I sincerely (I mean that) appreciate recommendations on this. I absolutely love this community and since I've been following the protocol my pool is mostly "trouble free". I've recommended many people this way.

Pool is ~20k gallons, near Austin TX. Detail info in my profile. I monitor very closely and can say for at least the past 1 month since subscribing officially I've been well within the apps recommendations.

Any opinions on which SWCG I should buy? I would love owners of both to weigh in (thank you in advance).

Situation/Info
- Pool filled Sep 2021
- Pool builder refused to go salt during the build (they all do in our neighborhood as far as I've learned .. ~ 140 houses, ~50% pools, I've surveyed ~ 11 pool owners .. but most of the same 3 pool builders here [Dripping Springs, TX]) .. we got 3 quotes and 3 hard no's for salt
- I've sent my pool builder links to the CircuPool model and asked if I can pay them to install it, answer is "no, we don't know how"
- So far, my pool builder isn't responding to my ask of "if I convert will this void the warranty" .. I've nicely asked a few times
- I asked my pool builder what SWCG they would be comfortable installing and supporting, no response (I specifically asked about Jandy since they use this equipment ..)

- I'm quite comfortable DIY'ing this but I am a afraid of losing the pool builder warranty
- I'm very tired of finding and lugging around bleach since I can't use the Chlorinator (CYA was 100, got it down to 80 after pouring >= 1 gallon a day of bleach manually but the tabs or a no-go long term)
- I think I'll eventually grow tired of testing 2-3x per day :) so I'd like to further autopilot this before I get there (enjoying it at the moment)
- I would like to go on vacation for a week at a time and not worry about chlorine!

Non-Facts
- My wife and I are scared to death about corrosion. As it is, the view rails are already showing rust. We have a lot of metal furniture near the pool, a ~22' retracting awning, two flakey (metal [copper looking] corroding already) firebowls, etc. If any of this gets damaged it would FAR offset the savings and bleach lugging effort of moving to SWCG. That being said, from what I've read on this forum it's not a material concern. Notably my dad is a huge salt fan now after many non-sw pools over the years (a recent convert) but .. my mom says all their furniture (pretty high end teak + metal pieces mostly) are rusting much faster since they converted. My dad is still a big fan of salt though. None the less, corrosion is a concern (and yes, I'll happily monitor salt levels to keep them as low as feasible, assuming that's helpful).

I have been running the primary pump at 1275 RPM 24/7 and that's worked out well. As of tonight, I'm experimenting with 18 hours a day runtime after reading here .. but regardless, I have no problems running the primary slowly as long as needed.

Note: All my equipment is located under the pool deck, not sure if that matters

I'm essentially down to these two choices:

UnitCostMax Chlorine per DayWarrantyOther
CircuPool RJ-60$1,832 (current promotion price + free shipping + tax)3.1 LbsYear 1 - No charge for parts.
Year 2 - Parts supplied at 20% of base price.
Year 3 - Parts supplied at 40% of base price.
Year 4 - Parts supplied at 60% of base price
Year 5-7 - Parts supplied at 80% of base price.
Adjustment in increments of 10%
pureline PL7703$1,1893.18 Lbs2 yearsFine tuning (analog dial) .... ?

I would much rather pay up-front for a good, durable solution in order to save long term.


Would you convert, regardless of warranty?

Which of these (or other .. thanks!) would you recommend?

Thank you in advance,

Brandon



Pool:vUErrcVyQAan3SBbNIFCmA.jpg

Pump/ filter distance from above ground pool

I am going to start on my pool this weekend. I really don't want the pump right next to the pool. I have a storage building where I'm getting power from about 24ft from the pool. Can I install the Hayward 1.5hp Power-Flo pump with S180T sand filter by the building and pipe over to the pool. I believe this pump and filter has 1 1/2" fittings so would I use 1 1/2 pipe or upsize the 2" for any reason. I will install the pool so I have a straight shot from the pool to the pump.

I don't want to install this way and figure out I don't have enough flow.

Thanks,

Jandy AquaPure PLC 1400 Not detected in iaqualink says check rsa485 but under help it shows its detected as a Aquaright 1

Very strange issue here I installed a new plc1400 and sensor and now iaqualink is not detecting the aquapure but everything works on manual display control board with no errors. On the display screen in box it does not flash the JA code indicating no connection to iaqualink but if i goto help to show the connected rsa485 devices it shows Aquaright 1 with a not combatiable message. Ive tried to clear the memory via the system settings screen with no luck. I also checked all rsa485 wires and verified the wires are good . Help please ! Image attached.

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Calcium leaching through the plaster

I have been having issues with calcium leaching through our plaster for two years now. This year our pool looks much worse. The pool was built in 2009 and the plaster was redone in 2019. I brush the pool every other day. I am not sure if this matters or not, but we have a 28,000 gallon pool. The pool company who opens the pool suggested a full drain and acid wash this year upon opening. We opened our pool on 4/1/2022. Last year we had 2 or 3 calcium spots and after the acid wash we have about 30 of them. It seems like the calcium is "running" in places.

FC: 3-4 PPM
TCL: 3-4 PPM
PH: 7.2
ALK: 78
CH: 262
CYA: 80

I usually have to add a 1/2 gallon of muriatic acid every week.

Don't mind the date on the pictures, I was using an old underwater camera. Any help is appreciated.

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Gazebo got an upgrade

I decided to upgrade the Dual speakers at my gazebo. Decided to up some of these guys over a pair of Atriums. KHO-7. They don’t sound the best out of the box, but burn them in for 8-10 hours and they start to sound nice. Very power hungry. They want an amp that is at least 75watts at 8ohms. Most small class D amps don’t actually do that as their stated wattage is usually for 4ohms and probably peak power. Basically anything with a 12 volt power supply is going to be kinda week. I tried 3 amps and settled on this one. Fosi amp. It might be just a tad underpowered, but it can get more then loud enough to irritate neighbors at max volume, so it’s perfect for my application. It doesn’t seem to distort even maxed completely out. It’s a very clean amp, I can see why it gets such great reviews. It has Bluetooth, which I haven’t tried. Right now I’m feeding it with an old gen3 Apple TV with airplay1. Will pick up a second gen airport express at some point as they support airplay2, and are cheap on eBay. This setup gives me decent enough sound. It would probably blow my indoor stereo away if I incorporated a powered sub.
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New Gunite Build in SETX

Walters, Beaumont_008.jpgThis is my first post in a long time. My family and I left Maryland for Texas 7 years ago. The only regret we had is not finding a new house with a pool (housing market is crazy here).

We loved the times we had in our pool at our last house. Thankfully due to some circumstances at my work, we were able to finally build a pool! The picture is the rendition of what we're getting. The dimensions are 34'x21'(sundeck side) & 17' in the deep end.

We're all so excited! We break ground 6/11.

WetEdge Signature Matrix - Quality of Product or Quality of Application

I'm struggling with the results of my Wet Edge Signature Matrix pool. I'm about 4 months into pool ownership in DFW...

First thing that really caught me was some significant discoloration in the plaster. There were large blotchy areas that looked stained brown/dirty. My plaster co indicated it was dirt stains from during the application/curing. They refused to do anything about it. My builder was supposed to be scrubbing multiple times a day during the curing phase and I supplemented the scrubbing myself during that time. So I'm just a little skeptic that's the situation. Attached are photos from before the Acid Bath. I need to get some m ore photos of the bends from wall to floor as I also see some discoloration in many places along that, almost looking white...

Secondarily, I find the Signature Matrix not very smooth at all. I'm also curious if this is due to the application process. But any time you rub something against the side of the pool, you're going to lose a layer of skin on your knuckles/ankles/elbows etc... My daughter repeatedly comes up with blisters across the entirety of her toes and balls of her feet from swimming. She's gotten to the point that she has to wear socks in the pool, which breaks my heart...

My builder offered an Acid Bath and that seemed to make the discoloration a little lighter, but still very noticeable. And I'm not sure if that acid bath is going to make the plaster smoother or rougher? I suspect rougher as I believe more of the aggregate is exposed..

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Filter