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JRzMom · Monday at 7:32 AM

I test almost daily for FC, but I find the R-0870 powder doesn't keep well. I'm thinking of buying a 16 oz. size and refilling the kit as needed. Is that worth it, or will it go bad? I try to be careful with moisture, but I guess I'm not careful enough. Also, how do you keep the scoop clean? It gets all gunked up. Do you wash it and dry it well before putting it back in the kit? Any suggestions for keeping the moisture out? I've read a few posts about using one of those silicone pouches taped to the lid, doing the test indoors (away from humidity), etc. What works, and most importantly, should I buy the 16 oz. size?

lacg · Monday at 7:31 AM

Hi, thank you for replying!
It is a Hayward SW15801X15TLFP (Serial number 2112-0812-005206001, apparently 0812 means built in December 2008), so a 1.5HP SW1580 single speed an older version similar to this one from Amazon, connecting to an AGP and using a SwimPro Voyager 175 sqft filter (can't find just the filter, but this one has the filter with a pump also from Amazon).
Have a great week!

sande005 · Monday at 7:27 AM

167? That is a very precise number for a test where the gold standard (the Taylor drop tests) only read in increments of 10 (25 if using the high range method).

Sounds like you think the Pool Store is your go-to test place. That can be, and is frequently, very, very wrong.

ethany · Monday at 7:25 AM

sande005 said:
Take the union apart just before the skimmer line goes into the pump. With it open, run hose water into it. You should get a good flow out of the other end. You may want to try it in reverse, since it you'd be pushing water through an open pipe, uphill, and instead go from the open pump end of the pipe to the skimmer end. If good here, likely your pipes are fine. Put it back together.

Undo the union on the vertical pipe that comes out of the pump. Run the pump and see if it will prime and pump normally. Yes, you will get a geyser with lots of water all over everything. But you should get a really strong flow out of the pipe, and the pump basket have no or little air after it primes. If not the same or stronger as you are used to seeing from your waste pipe in years past, then likely it is time to take the pump apart, and look for debris in the impellor. They can be pretty narrow, with narrow slots in them that debris plugs up and blocks. Report back if so, and we can help with a "how to". We will need the specific make/model - which is probably on the barcode sticker on the side toward the filter.

If flow is strong, put the pipe back together, and put the Filter handle to waste. Same test - looking for reduce flow from the waste. If so, take the multiport (the six screws) apart. It may be a bit of effort to pull/twist the whole top off using the handle. NO TOOLS! Check again for debris. Put pool lube on the inside spider gasket, and the o-ring around the perimeter of the top, and reassemble.

If the above strong, redo the test again, this time with one of the unions near where it goes back into the ground open. Test with the Multihandle to "Recirc", and see how it comes out of the open pipe. Then stop it, put the handle in the "Filter" position and see again. If bad on Recirc, then it is a matter of taking apart the pipes from the filter to the section inground, and seeing if there is blockage in any section. While a bit of a pain, you have lots of unions, so the job will not be difficult. If only bad when on Filter - then it is time to take apart and check the Sand filter. Report back, and we can help with that task.

A bit odd to see only one pipe out of the ground into the pump, and one return going back into the ground. How many skimmers and deep end drains are there? How many return jets into the pool? Is there anywhere else not yet pictured where there are valves to control flow, if there are either multiple suction inlets, or multiple jets?

Thanks for reply……..I will do everything you mentioned this morning. I only have one skimmer. Four returns in pool, I had to abandon the main drain years ago and capped it off because of underground damage to pipe. The pool was leaking and when I plugged the main drain in pool the leaking stopped.

I also disconnect the heat pump because the fiberglass pool was getting metal stains, once I took heater out, no more stains. I assume it was copper pipes in heat pump.

Donldson · Monday at 7:23 AM

Jen102100 said:
Why would the pool store not be testing correctly?

Why would they be too worried about the accuracy of something they give away for free to get people in the store and buying their products?

Newdude · Monday at 7:23 AM

I'd try to prime through the waterfalls. If they worked, you'd prove it to the return line or the valve. They are likely dripping because it has openings way bigger than the garden hose. Then i'd open up the valve and Drain King the return line if nothing was obviously wrong inside.

Jen102100 · Monday at 7:20 AM

JamesW said:
@onBalance is the best expert on plaster.

Maybe they can look and give an opinion.

Why would the pool store not be testing correctly? If i buy the correct test kit it will identify the the type if stains

ajw22 · Monday at 7:16 AM

Welcome to TFP.

You have to dig more out to expose the pipe.

Is that pipe white Schedule 40 PVC?

You want glued new pipe to make a permanent fix. A plug or some barbed pipe with hose clamps has a good chance of failing in the future.

The way to fix a break like that where you cannot move the pipes for couplers is to cut out a length of pipe and use four 90s to fit in the space. You need to dig out more around the pipe to have a hole to work in.

Leak Repair Question

I had a leaking pipe under a concrete deck. Guys cut out a square and made this repair to a pipe when runs to the built in spa. Is this appropriate/adequate? There really is no room without pulling out a lot more deck. Thanks!

www.troublefreepool.com

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Branster · Monday at 7:09 AM

A big hello from the UK.

I've found TFP to be invaluable in sorting my pool over the last few years but I've hit a problem that I need advice on.

I updated my outlets using this
Amazon.co.uk. As I wanted to continue using my current hoses I then used intex adapter B (38mm to 32mm).

All good so far but now I am unable to connect my Intex floating skimmer to the plate of the new outlet. Does anyone know how this can be achieved with some type of adapter?

Any help is hugely appreciated.

Thank you.

ajw22 · Monday at 7:06 AM

Welcome to TFP?

How out of square is the pool?

How much pipe remains in the extended corner?

Is the pool level?

How to level above ground pool - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

ajw22 · Monday at 7:03 AM

Rodents like just about every model pool heater.

MK Rat Proofing Products

We Keep Rodents Out Of Your Pool Heater

mkratproofing.com

Newdude · Monday at 6:58 AM

paul1971 said:
I use the smart stir from the pro kit i bought thru this forum

OK sweet. I often wonder how tricky it would be by hand as most drops flicker it red. But I wait a 1/2 second and it keeps going back to yellow-y milk. Then, BOOM. There's no mistaking that one. Lol.

ajw22 · Monday at 6:58 AM

Is your underground pipe solid schedule 40 PVC or some type of flex hose?

It is doubtful tree roots can squeeze or break schedule 40 PVC.

Water pressure is inversely proportional to pipe size. You can get high water pressure from a small house water pipe or garden hose. When that same flow is put into a 1.5” PVC pipe the pressure will drop.

Newdude · Monday at 6:53 AM

Dirk said:
unfortunately it is now in the hands of USPS, which treats Amazon arrival dates as a mere suggestion.

Newdude · Monday at 6:52 AM

paul1971 · Monday at 6:48 AM

Newdude said:
40 lbs would put your reading close to 3000 and the pool store a little over 3000, while the cell was still under 4000. Everybody wins. Its not going to go up on its own and the spring has been awfuly wet so far so it'll probably continue to drop more than normal.

Sounds like youre not using a smart stir. It really makes a difference for salt.

I use the smart stir from the pro kit i bought thru this forum

Ok i’ll dump in a 40lbs bag then…

ajw22 · Monday at 6:47 AM

Those should work fine.

Plumb a skinner to give the pump enough water and at least two returns.

Intex Skimmer Install - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

ajw22 · Monday at 6:41 AM

Turbolag said:
I had to partially drain my ~35,000 gallon pool this year to install new diverter valves so everything was low. Started at 100 & is now 167 after adding 50 lbs. It's almost 4X cheaper to use this than pool store calcium.

How did you measure 167 ppm of CH?

50 lbs of calcium chloride should raise your CH by 154 ppm.

Either that stuff is less than half pure calcium chloride or you have a testing error.

ajw22 · Monday at 6:41 AM

Newdude · Monday at 6:40 AM

40 lbs would put your reading close to 3000 and the pool store a little over 3000, while the cell was still under 4000. Everybody wins. Its not going to go up on its own and the spring has been awfuly wet so far so it'll probably continue to drop more than normal.

paul1971 said:
I find it so difficult to precisely measure salt

Sounds like youre not using a smart stir. It really makes a difference for salt.

gregapalooza · Monday at 6:38 AM

ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.

What type of plumbing, skimmer, and returns do you have on your pool?

Will you plumb everything with 1.5" solid Schedule 40 PVC?

It matters how much flow your pool's plumbing can take.

Intex Pools - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I plan to hard plumb everything with PVC.
I found this pump:

https://lesliespool.com/jacuzzi-jvs165s-1.65thp-variable-speed-pool-pump/41124.html#description-btn-div

And filter(photo attached)
That I can get on marketplace for about $700
I believe it's more than I need but still suitable and a great price.

Are they oversized? The pump can run as low as 600rpm, but I haven't found what the gpm is at that speed yet.

gregapalooza · Monday at 6:38 AM

Pas_pool · Monday at 6:28 AM

PoolStored said:
PAS. You got it. and @ajw22 is right. I went through the same thing. I had to have my TA down, so I built an aeration rig, that now sits dormant as I've learned.

Create another pool in pool math called Fill Water. Test the pH, TA, CH of your fill water and save it as a record in Fill Water.

Post those results here (we can only see your default pool)

I will do that when I get a moment after work one of these days coming up. Haven’t had to use my well water for fill yet. I’ve only been doing the opposite with all this rain

paul1971 · Monday at 6:15 AM

HermanTX said:
Looks great. If your salt test is with drop method then it may be a little low for your SWCG. Most SWCG range from 2800 to 3800 depending on model, make. Your SWCG may be reading a higher level of salt which is fine - but it is best to monitor salt using the drop test as compared to the SWCG reading or use of salt strips.
A 40 lb bag will raise salt level by 435ppm.

I find it so difficult to precisely measure salt….i use drops and follow instructions but find it difficult to judge exactly when the color turns from brick to red. I find that it turns redish right away and does not go thru salmon-brick color. Also, i learned not to trust the swcg reading (it says 3200…) and also pool store results. They use the machine to test salt level and i went the other day they said 2800…not sure if i should just dump in 40lbs to be sure or not. I opened the pool on may 1 and half pool was rain water and have not added any salt at all this year….thoughts?

ScottyGaaDo · Monday at 6:11 AM

Thanks for the info guys!
The guy I had talked to made it sound like you wouldn't be able to get it anymore & mentioned it would be replaced with another product.
I've always had great results with DE, so glad to hear this isn't correct!

Leebo · Monday at 5:37 AM

If you just subscribed, it’s likely that the test results from the past few weeks weren’t actually saved — the free version of the app only allows limited logging, so entries beyond that wouldn’t be stored until the subscription is active.

Since you’ve now subscribed, it sounds like the issue might be related to how the results are being saved. Most commonly, this happens when the check mark in the upper right corner isn’t tapped after entering data. Here’s a quick refresher on how to properly log test results:

Open the PoolMath app and tap the “+” icon at the bottom center.
Select “Log Test Results.”
Enter your current test values (Free Chlorine, pH, CYA, etc.).
Once all values are entered, tap the check mark in the upper right corner to save the log.

If that step is skipped, the app won’t save your test results, even if everything else looks correct.

Try logging your next test this way and let us know if it appears properly on the main screen afterward. If you continue to have issues, we’re happy to help dig in further!

Dirk · Monday at 5:35 AM

A drain can barely pull debris from a very small radius, like inches. It's doing virtually nothing to clean your pool, especially if you have any sort of automated cleaner.

You can try this to determine if you have a suction-side leak above ground:

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xsjmjx · Monday at 5:26 AM

Yesterday when opening pool, noticed water coming up from ground. After some digging, found that patio installer drove an edging stake into the pool line. It appears it was such a firm puncture that it didn't present itself for four years, but here we are. Looking for guidance on best way to repair. I'm all about hiring a pro, but it is busy season with openings and not getting replies so far. If I was to repair, do I need to couple with a barb or another thought was to plug it (with what I'm unsure) and cut a flexible coupler lengthwise to secure around it. It appears to be a line back to the pool FWIW.

I'm precariously close to affecting the patio, so not much room to work.

xsjmjx · Monday at 5:24 AM

xsjmjx · Monday at 5:24 AM

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