Latest activity

Posts Threads Hot

Latest activity

 Media Forum list

Switching to a VS Pump Today - What to know?

Jimrahbe
Dagobah said:
I upgraded to the Easytouch automation a few years ago and it slipped my mind!!
Click to expand...
D,

That makes it easy... :mrgreen:

I would go with a 3 HP IntelliFlo3....


I am not sure what HP pump you have now, but the bigger the better when using a VS pump.. This is because the bigger the pump, the slower you can run it and still move a lot of water.
The slower it runs, the less it costs, and the quieter it will be.

I never, ever recommend a smaller VS pump..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...

Leaky diverter

S
So, here's my layout, showing all the Pentair diverters used:
The three right diverters (closed) come from the skimmers and the deep end.
The three left (open) go to the jets.
The one single allows for discharge to waste before it gets to the filter (waste line closed in the pic).

(The loop by the SWCG is just because the heater is dead, and waiting for an install).

Pump looses prime at low speeds. Filter self empties, when at lower speeds. With system off, a full filter gurgles, and rapidly fills with air.
Placing my hand over the waste pipe end (obscured in the photo) and I get a pretty good suction as the filter self drains. The waste diverter is closed, as in the pic. With the six inputs/outputs closed, draining and suction stop.

So it appears the bad boy is that Pentair diverter for the waste line. No water leaks when under pressure, but allows air in when not pressurized. And it has to be a fair amount of pressure, since the system runs dry at lower speeds.

I, of course, will take it apart to see if there is any debris in it. And apply lube.
When new, this valve did leak water. A call to the installer, and they replaced all the guts, but not the housing. No more leak.
Operated well all last year, so too late for another call back.
Should I just embrace the pain, and replace the whole thing (which means filter fitting too, since there is not room to splice in)?
Any other advice?

IMG_6727.jpg
Click to expand...

IMG_6727.jpg

S
IMG_6727.jpg

Help me troubleshoot low FLOW issues....please.

Jimrahbe
Mike,

You currently have your Return valve set to send about 50% of the water back to your pool and 50% back to your spa for you spillover.. You should have a massive spillover..

Feel the flow at one of your pool return eyeballs and then do the same at a spa return and see if the spa water feels weaker..

I guess it is possible that your Return Jandy valve is clogged or broken... You could take a look and see..

But... you said you saw this problem right after you replaced the main pool pump.. Are your sure that the replacement pump had the same impeller as your original pump?

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...

Skimmer and Filter basket

S
EmilyOTR said:
what's the point of this? I hear about it a lot but have never used it and I get a ton of junk in my skimmer because we have a huge oak tree hanging over our pool. but the basket by itself does fine...
Click to expand...
We have oak trees near our pool too. When they drop leaves & pollen pods twice a year it's a real chore keeping the pool clean since all that stuff not only drops into the pool but it also blows off the pool deck into the pool on windy days. Hair nets are very helpful. Even with nets I'll clean the pump filters after leaf/pollen session. They're due for a cleaning now in central TX.
PoolStored said:
To lower the amount of pollen debris etc getting to the filter. Increases the time between filter cleanings.
Click to expand...
True, less filter cleaning but more basket emptying as the nets capture more debris than the basket without a net.
Click to expand...

Opened pool, tested CYA with it possibly being under 30

Newdude
summertimesadness said:
So going forward when I open next year, let it circulate for 24 hrs then test for CYA?
Click to expand...
Yes. For salt, CYA and CH

TA / PH and FC are mixed well in 15 to 30 mins depending on circulation and you can dose accordingly after.
summertimesadness said:
How much LC should I add in the mean time while I scrub etc?
Click to expand...
I like 10 FC. If you retained any CYA (likely with closing @ SWG levels), 10 FC is a little over target range and once you start mixing/brushing you can lose a couple FC to the crud or the sun and still be good.

If you lost all your CYA, 10 FC is slam level so no harm done.
Click to expand...

CC - Wont go down!

JoyfulNoise
What you have is a public/commercial pool … doesn’t matter if it’s in a backyard or a building, it’s being operated as public pool and the bather load is extreme.

One way to reduce the CCs is to meter/limit the use. All commercial water facilities here in the US have regulations regarding the number of allowed bathers in a pool and require that pools be emptied of swimmers for a period of time, typically around an hour give or take, several times per day. This “downtime” period allows the operator to perform the legally required testing of the water and gives a chance for the system to filter and disinfect the water. Recreational water illness (RWI) is a big deal and diseases can transmit quite rapidly in pool water. If a commercial facility cannot get their CC to come down, they are usually required to close the pool until it is remediated either by chemical treatment or by freshwater exchange.

I’d you intend to keep operating the pool at such high bather levels, you’re going to need to implement tighter controls over the chemistry and use of the pool. I don’t know anything about personal injury litigation in the UK but here in the US a setup like yours is an expensive lawsuit waiting to happen.

Consider UV treatment and regular water exchanges as well as more restrictive scheduling and more frequent downtime through out the day. It’s really the only options you have.
Click to expand...

Skimmer and Filter basket

P
EmilyOTR said:
what's the point of this? I hear about it a lot but have never used it and I get a ton of junk in my skimmer because we have a huge oak tree hanging over our pool. but the basket by itself does fine...
Click to expand...
It depends on the average size of the junk. If you get a lot of pollen, or in some places cottonwood "Fluff" it will pass through the regular skimmer basket sized holes, and get into the filter. The skimmer socks lets the skimmers capture the small stuff. This lets you go longer between filter maintenance (backflush, clean, whatever), the downside is that if you do not keep up with cleaning the skimmer baskets, it will quickly clog them up.
Click to expand...

Switching to a VS Pump Today - What to know?

Jimrahbe
Dagobah said:
I've heard getting a pump that'll tell you the flow rate is super helpful.
Click to expand...
D,

Why would that be?? No one actually 'needs' to know the flow.. :scratch:

The problem that I see is that almost any automation system can control a single speed pump, but most VS pumps use an RS-485 com port to control the pump's schedule and speed.

I don't know much about your ComPool system, but I don't think it has an RS-485 bus.. Do you know??

If the automation can't control the speeds, that means you will have to use the pump's control panel, which makes having an automation system kind of useless.

You could upgrade your Compool to an EasyTouch that can control most Pentair VS pumps...

Questions for Pentair Compool to EasyTouch Upgrade Kit with Transformer - 521247 - INYOPools.com

Compool to EasyTouch Upgrade Kit with Transformer - 521247
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com

What does your LX3600 currently control??

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...

Strategies for first opening

H
Newdude said:
Yes. Had you not learned that, you'd still wonder if it ever happened again. That knowledge may be worth more in the long run than what you lost this time. I was mostly trying to cheer you up about it. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks! I appreciate the advice about the ladder as well.
Good news is, it looks like no noticeable chlorine loss overnight so I'll run the test tonight and maybe will be finished with the SLAM!
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude

18 x 33 x 56" Semi-In Ground NJ

P
Looks really nice. Are you planning on fastening the pump to the slab. I have my pump on a small slab, and I have tried to bolt it down a number of ways. I have to be able to remove it at the end of the season however. Nothing seems to last through the fastening and removal cycles. If I don't bolt it down, it vibrates. I have resorted to just shimming the base now.
Click to expand...

Opening pool and salt level

B
I just had a company open my pool two days ago. I'm trying to get the chemicals balanced. Only my second time opening. What levels are the most important to get balanced first? I don't want to add too much at once and make things worse. The water right now looks clear.

Also I tested my salt level with the Taylor kit at it says 2800, but my sensor on my display says 2000. My salt cell wants 2700-3400 should I add more salt? It's only been half a day since adding the salt so I know I need to wait longer to let it circulate.

Last year I didn't use any liquid chlorine and was able to use my salt generator pretty much right away. So this is different.

Thank you!
Click to expand...

Newly opened pool

T
Don't give up on the process! TFP can get you through this but it takes some diligence to complete the process. No "professional" will do a SLAM for you as it takes lots of attention to the pool for a few days, especially in the beginning. Are you capable of sourcing a lot of liquid chlorine? Can you brush the pool when needed? Can you clean or backwash your filter when needed? Can you test every two hours for a couple of days in the beginning?
Click to expand...

Pool Filter Rust Prevention

R
I know this is an older thread, however, I had the same Pentair rust issue and hopefully have added another step to prevent future issues. I ordered a new stainless ring. When I received it, I cleaned/prepped the spot welds and area around it (rust begins here). I then coated the area with POR 15 and let cure for 96 hrs. I happened to have some Gray POR15 from a previous project.
I removed the rusty stainless ring in the filter and cleaned the rust on the inside of the housing with Barkeepers Friend. Finally I reassembled everything and started the system back up. I'm not 100% sure this will prevent future rust, but I feel a lot better with it coated in POR 15, than without. Fingers crossed.
Click to expand...

Attachments

  • pool1.jpg
    pool1.jpg
    67.2 KB · Views: 0
  • pool2.jpg
    pool2.jpg
    68.6 KB · Views: 0
  • pool3.jpg
    pool3.jpg
    84.6 KB · Views: 0
  • pool4.jpg
    pool4.jpg
    46 KB · Views: 0
  • pool5.jpg
    pool5.jpg
    67.8 KB · Views: 0

Pool Filter Rust Prevention

R
I know this is an older thread, however, I had the same Pentair rust issue and hopefully have added another step to prevent future issues. I ordered a new stainless ring. When I received it, I cleaned/prepped the spot welds and area around it (rust begins here). I then coated the area with POR 15 and let cure for 96 hrs. I happened to have some Gray POR15 from a previous project.
I removed the rusty stainless ring in the filter and cleaned the rust on the inside of the housing with Barkeepers Friend. Finally I reassembled everything and started the system back up. I'm not 100% sure this will prevent future rust, but I feel a lot better with it coated in POR 15, than without. Fingers crossed.
Click to expand...

Attachments

  • pool1.jpg
    pool1.jpg
    67.2 KB · Views: 0
  • pool2.jpg
    pool2.jpg
    68.6 KB · Views: 0
  • pool3.jpg
    pool3.jpg
    84.6 KB · Views: 0
  • pool4.jpg
    pool4.jpg
    46 KB · Views: 0
  • pool5.jpg
    pool5.jpg
    67.8 KB · Views: 0
Load more

Filter

Top Bottom
Back