How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

Important Warranty Information When Selecting Equipment

Pool equipment manufacturers have been changing their warranties on various product lines frequently. Before purchase, confirm your understanding of all warranty information and details.

Review a manufacturer’s position on warranties. How do internet sales and/or owner installation affect the warranty? Identify whether the equipment manufacturer warranty requires the equipment to be installed by a certified professional or if a pool owner can perform the installation and have warranty coverage. Some manufacturers offer more extended warranties when you buy a bundle of equipment and have it professionally installed. Understand what product registration is required for warranty coverage.

Selection of Equipment

Equipment selection for pools depends on the volume of water in the pool, pool use, pool features, and the amount of technology or automation chosen.

You should also become familiar with pool industry terminology (if you are relatively new to the discussion) and any changes or advancements made since your last purchase.

Generally, an oversized cartridge filter, a big variable-speed pump, a SWCG 2X the pool volume, and automation are good choices for a new pool.

How to select the best pump for a new pool

Sizing a pump depends mainly on its intended use. Will the pool have water features (sheer descents, deck jets, etc.) or an integrated spa?

The chart above shows how a VS pump's energy costs vary at different speeds.

In the United States, variable speed (VS) motors were required for all pumps over 1.1 total HP as of July 18, 2021.^[1] Purchasing a single speed pump or a 2-speed pump now for a new pool is discouraged.

Jandy has published the following:

The US Department of Energy (DOE) has implemented new regulatory standards that require most classes of pool pumps manufactured or imported into the US beginning July 19, 2021, meet minimum energy-efficiency standards.

Important: All pumps that enter the US supply chain on or before July 18, 2021, are considered sellable inventory and can be sold through to distribution and beyond. No product needs to be returned. The regulations only affect pumps manufactured or imported into the US on July 19, 2021 or later.

All Jandy pumps listed on this page are expected to meet the new regulations.

Variable speed pumps (VS pumps) are built with overcapacity in mind. For example, a smaller pool with water features or a spa should have a full-size VS pump. A large pool with many features may need multiple VS pumps. A VS pump can easily be set to pump the flow you need for each purpose, from low rpm for regular filtering and skimming the surface to high rpm for spas or water features.

If the pool is to have no water features or an integrated spa, then one of the lower HP VS pumps is sufficient. A lower flow will most often be sufficient to skim the surface, but a higher flow can be used for vacuuming or other specific needs.

To compare a single-speed pump with a VS pump, Jandy offers a Pool Pump Savings Calculator.

A Larger HP VS Pump is Quieter than a Lower HP VS Pump

A larger HP pump or a smaller HP pump will use about the same amount of energy for a given flow rate on a particular system. Your pool needs the pump to deliver a range of water flow rates through the pipes, filter, heater, and other equipment. As long as the pump can provide the needed water flow range through the restrictions, called head, a large HP or small HP VS pump can work equally well.

Almost all pool pump motors run at a maximum of 3450 RPM. There are a few VS pumps that max out at 4,000 RPM. The impeller determines the required motor HP and the flow capacity of a specific pump at a specific speed on a specific system.

The main benefit of selecting a larger HP pump is that it will run at a lower RPM, giving you the needed flow rate and thus being quieter.

Replacing a single-speed pump in an existing pool

If you replace a single-speed pump in an existing pool, consider a 2-speed pump that will save you almost as much as a VS pump. VS pumps do not operate the same way as single-speed or 2-speed pumps, so they are more energy efficient, but not by much. And they cost a lot more.

VS pumps are best when you have a spa or several water features and want to run at different RPMs throughout the day. For a standard pool owner, a 2-speed pump works well.

Selecting the best pool filters

You should get the largest filter you can afford, and that will fit onto your equipment pad. The larger the filter, the less it needs to be cleaned. All filter types work by capturing the stuff that falls into the pool and floats on the pool surface. Depending on where you live, the availability of water, the cost of water, and whether your pool is open year-round can influence what type of filter is best for your environment.

The cost of the filter only increases marginally from a small size to the largest size. In general, as discussed below, the larger the filter, the better to increase the time between cleanings and reduce the water used for cleaning.

Many sites stress ‘turnover’ when sizing filters. TFP has shown that turnover is not a factor in maintaining pool water. Proper pool water chemistry and sufficient filtering (skimming) to remove the stuff that falls into the pool is what keeps your pool water TFP clear.

Pool Filter Types

Sand filters are the simplest. Most pools should use a minimum of a 24” sand filter. With pools greater than 25,000 gallons or in high debris areas, use a 30” filter. Sand filters use lots of water to clean them. Therefore, you should select a large sand filter that will need less frequent backwashing and thus use less water. Users with high iron levels in their fill water may want to avoid using a sand filter.
DE (diatomaceous earth) filters are a bit more complex but also use lots of water to clean and need to be refilled with DE or an alternative media. The filter sizing is in Square Feet (SF) of the filter area. Minimum size of 48 SF for most pools. Pools larger than 25,000 gallons should use a 60 SF filter. This, again, is based on reducing the backwash/cleaning frequency of the filter and thus reducing water and DE or alternative media use.
Hybrid DE filters use a cartridge element with DE added. They can be backwashed but are typically broken down and cleaned instead of backwashed, using less water during cleaning. A minimum size of 80SF is recommended with larger pools using the 100SF models. Hybrid DE filters come in a few sizes. Again, larger is always best for reducing cleaning intervals.
Cartridge filters use little water when cleaning as you remove the cartridges and clean them using a hose sprayer. The cartridges do need to be replaced every few years. For most pools, a cartridge filter is a great choice. The filter sizing is in Square Feet (SF) of the filter area. At a minimum, you want 200 SF per 10,000 gallons of pool volume. Some Pool Builders or websites recommend much smaller filter sizes. However, a wider filter area is better for more efficient operation and less cleaning of the cartridges.

Pool Filter Comparison in TFP Pool School has a more in-depth discussion about filters.

Pool Filter Sizing

PoolSpaNews:Making the Most of Filters: With sanitizers in high demand and low supply, it has become more important than ever to maximize the abilities of this vital equipment.

Filtering surface areas^[2] specifications vary with the type of filter:

A sand filter of 2-foot diameter will have a surface area of 3.14 square feet.
A Pentair CCP520 has four cartridges with pleated folds with 130 square feet of surface area for 520 square feet.
A DE 60 filter has 60 square feet of surface area.

The largest residential sand filter (Pentair TR-140) is about 7.06 square feet of surface area. The Pentair CCP 520 cartridge filter has 165 times more surface area than a typical sand filter (TR-60) (3.14 square feet) and 74 times the surface area of a TR-140 sand filter. This is why large cartridge filters only need to be cleaned once per year, while small sand filters need cleaning every week. The filter size and the local environment are the primary factors for how often the filter will need to be cleaned. This is why we generally recommend that you get the largest filter you can afford.^[3]

Filter sizing general rules of thumb are:

High-rate sand filtration: Size for 15 gallons per minute (GPM) per square foot of filtration surface area.
DE: Allow 1 to 2 GPM per square foot of surface area.
Cartridge: Limit flow to 0.375 GPM per square foot of surface area.

The following table is derived from the APSP-15 and ANSI/NSF 50 Specifications and shows the minimum recommended filter size based on each filter type's maximum GPM/Sq-Ft. These requirements are shown in the APSP-15 standard and are now being adopted as regulations by many states for both public and residential pools.

In some cases, the pump's maximum flow rate will dictate the minimum filter size rather than the pool size, so BOTH must be considered. Also, for cartridge and DE filters, increasing the filter size beyond what is shown in the table is generally a good idea, as it will minimize the number of cleanings per season and cleaning damage.

Filter Head Loss

A consideration when choosing a filter is that filter head loss can vary quite a bit depending on the type and size of the filter. In general, a cartridge filter will have the lowest head loss of any filter mainly because they typically lack a backwash valve or Multipurpose Valves (MPV) used with sand and DE filter, which add quite a bit of head loss. In addition, small sand filters can cause high head loss because of the smaller media surface area. Below is a table of different filter configurations with their associated head loss.

Selecting pool heaters

There are two types of heaters typically used in pools and spas:

Gas heaters using natural gas or propane energy
Heat Pumps using electricity energy

There are also resistive electric small pool and spa water heaters with low BTU output and high electricity consumption. They may be used when electric energy is free or very low-cost.

Consider acquisition, installation, life cycle maintenance, and electrical or gas efficiency costs.

Heaters are a significant source of "head" or restriction in your pool plumbing. Heat Pumps have smaller water coils than gas heaters and have more "head".

Pool Heaters Explained in TFP Pool School discusses more about pool heaters.

Sizing

The size of a pool heater depends on many factors, including your climate, pool location, size of the pool, temperatures you want the pool or spa heated to, whether the pool is covered, and the type of energy available—natural gas, propane (which can be expensive), or electric.

Pools that need quick heat or have spas should use a gas heater. An electric heat pump may be applicable for pools in areas that need heat nearly all of the swim season or are located in warmer climates that wish to extend the season.

Efficiency

Standard gas pool heaters are around 82% efficient. That means while a heater may be rated at 400K BTUs, about 320K BTUs get into the water, and the rest are lost in the exhaust.

There are high-efficiency gas pool heaters such as the Pentair ETI 400, Jandy Hi E2 and Raypak Digital Professional X94 Pool Heater. High-efficiency pool heaters are more expensive, and the payback may not be available for infrequent use.

Electrical Heat Pumps are 100% efficient, and all BTUs go into the water.

Air Temperature

Most heat pumps only work when the ambient air temperature exceeds 50 degrees F. Heat pump BTU ratings are typically based on 80F air temperature. The BTU heating output will drop as the air temperature drops until most Heat Pumps shut down at 50F.

As the variables for sizing a heater are vast, we suggest speaking to a pool heater sales representative and posting on the forum for recommendations.

About BTUs

The science of heating water is that it takes one British Thermal Unit (BTU) of energy to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. Water weighs 8.4 pounds per gallon. So, from the BTU output of a heater being proposed, you can determine how long it will take to heat your pool. In the calculation, we suggest using an 80% efficiency factor for a gas heater or 100% for a Heat Pump. This efficiency factor encompasses all losses, not just what occurs at the heater.

Calculators has various tools for determining the best type and size of heater for your pool.

Chlorinating Your Pool Water

How to Chlorinate Your Pool in TFP Pool School discusses the alternatives you have to keep your pool water sanitary.

Saltwater Chlorine Generators

Salt Water Chlorine Generators (SWCG) are widely used by TFP members. In sizing a SWG, the main thing to remember is to get a SWCG rated for at least 2X your pool volume. That way, you will not need to run your pump 24 hours per day and/or your SWCG at 100% to chlorinate your pool.

For example, a 20,000-gallon pool should have a SWCG rated for a 40,000-gallon pool. A SWCG is also rated in pounds of chlorine gas per 24 hours. A rating of 1.4 pounds is sufficient for a 20,000-gallon pool.

Larger pools may require Multiple SWG cells to have sufficient chlorine generating capacity.

Salt Water Chlorine Generators in TFP Pool School explains how SWCGs work and are maintained.

Liquid Chlorine Dispensers

Tanks with chemical pumps are available to add liquid chlorine to a pool. We suggest making sure the tank will hold a minimum of 5-7 days of liquid chlorine use so you can go that long between filling the tank.

Selecting Pool Lights

There is a wide range of pool lights to choose from, from white incandescent lights to white LED lights or color-changing LED lights. They vary in size and the type of niche required.

Pentair's guideline is to aim for 4 lumens per square foot of pool surface. For example, if the pool is 500 sq ft, then you need 500x4=2000 lumens. This would be 4 MicroBrites or 2 IntelliBrite RGB.

Inyo Pools also has a good blog on How Many Lights Do I Need For My Pool? with a table summarizing the coverage of the different Pentair lights.

Jandy has an excellent LED Lighting Design Guide.

Pool Light Transformer

12-volt pool lights use a safety transformer. This transformer is designed so that if it goes bad, the primary side (120 volts) cannot short over to the secondary side and kill everyone in the pool. A standard landscape transformer should never be used for pool lights.

Automation

Most automation systems sold by pool equipment manufacturers work best when the automation system, pump(s), lights, and SWCG (if installed) are from the same manufacturer.

Programming, control, etc., are far simpler and straightforward when all items are from the same manufacturer. However, even with that, not all pumps from a manufacturer can be controlled by their automation. An example is the Pentair Superflo VS pump, whose variable speeds cannot be controlled by an automation system, even Pentair’s.

Some automation systems can control pumps and lights from other manufacturers. However, it is not advised to mix pumps and lights from different manufacturers.

Most pool heaters can be mixed with any automation system since they are turned on and off by the automation using a standard method based on the pool water temperature.

Filters can be mixed with any automation system as they are not controlled.

Floor Drains

If you get drain(s) in the bottom of your pool, ensure they are channel drains. Channel drains can sit flat with the bottom of the pool, while VGBA drains sit up much higher.

In a sports pool, these can be toe stubbers, which can also cause a robot to get stuck.

One channel drain replaces two of the VGBA drains. The whole point of having two VGB drains is that if you sit on one of them, you can't get trapped by the suction. A wide channel drain does not have this problem.

Solar Panel Considerations

Almost any pump can handle the extra dynamic head if the solar panels are on the ground. However, when placed on a second-story roof, a pump must overcome the initial static head of the panel's height during the priming phase of the panels. After the panels are primed, the static head going up to the roof is offset by the static head dropping from the roof when the return pipe is filled with water.

To ensure proper priming of the solar panels and the closing of the vacuum release valve at the top of the panel, the pump's head loss at 40 GPM should be twice the height of the panels. For example, if the peak height of a panel is 25 feet, then the pump should handle a minimum of 50 feet of head @ 40 GPM. Most full-speed pumps will handle this fairly easily.

However, most two-speed pumps at low speed will not have sufficient power to prime panels on a high roof since the maximum head at low speed is usually below 25 feet. The water may reach the panel's top, but there will not be enough pressure to close the vacuum release valve. If the valve does not close, the static head loss will remain, the total head loss will be higher, and flow rates will be lower.

In addition, even when the panels are primed and the pump is switched to low speed, there may not be enough pressure at the top of the panels to ensure that the vacuum release valve stays closed. So, it may not be possible to run solar on lower speeds. Operating panels on a single-story house may be possible but probably unlikely for a two-story house unless the VRV is relocated to a lower elevation.

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