Those aren't the results we would typically see from the Taylor K1766 test kit. How did you test for salt?

I just did some re-piping as well. First I would say the goal is to fully seat connections. Also, be sure to use the ratchet cutter properly, as even that makes a difference on the cuts. I say that because I made the mistake of not paying attention to that. So I try have everything measured, pre cut, cleaned and ready to go. Without any glue- loosely dry fit to give yourself a final visual of what the connection will look like, and what is the best way to assemble it. Try to give yourself as much room to work as possible, if you can assemble one end of connection away from its final connection point (sometimes could be the inverse of this)- do that first usually a coupling or 90. But, be sure you dry fit it first. I say loosely bcz aren’t easy to pull apart dry. So, deep breath, slow down, one end at a time. Prime (usually the purple)both the fixed, and new, then swirl the blue glue, don’t need to get crazy with it . A nice even coat, maybe three swirls up, then as u push in u want to be turning your pipe/connecrtion to the fixed end slowly as u push in (turn to right or left, threse aren’t threaded- but I just stick w righty tighty). I think straight cuts , clean off both ends of connection. Prime . Conserve glue. Forgive yourself. There’s plenty more PVC pipe out there. Hope this helps.

Jimrahbe said:

Kim,

Welcome to TFP... a great place to learn how to maintain your new pool.

Thanks,

Jim R.

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Thanks for the welcome.

ajw22 said:

You need a pool cleaner to vacuum the pool and pickup the stuff that settles to the bottom of the pool.

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Well when I vacuum the pool the stuff at the bottom goes into a cloud and passes through the bag on my pool blaster which is what's confusing me as to what it is.

Texas Splash said:

Welcome!

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Thanks for the welcome.

Jimrahbe said:

If only everyone would do this...

Jim R.

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lol yes sir.
From the school of hard knocks and wasted parts.......

At that tested level a new cell may trigger a high salt reading. Pentair’s standard variance is +/- 500 ppm so it could read 4050 as 4500 ppm and trigger the high salt light.

Dragons Den said:

your 65,000 gallon pool is easily double the size of my 20×40 30,000 gallon rectangle pool. I understand your frustration in finding a good robot for your application.

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@PGQ24 did you look at the commercial robots such as the Wave models from Maytronics/Dolphin ?

Like everything else there is a substantial bump in price getting a commercial model but you're well beyond what should be expected from a residential cleaner IMO.

this can help:
[Pump Basics - Further Reading air in lid]

I rinse my scoop after each use. I just spray some pool sample water on it and let it dry before putting back into kit.

I only seen the 10gram and a 1/4 lb of R-0870 powder. Taylor Technologies website only shows those 2 sizes.

I think I would just purchase 2 or 3 bottles of the 10gram size and open as needed.

I do not think the larger size will go bad but it may get clunky so would have to pound on it to pour into a 10gram container.

Eva,

How old is the robot??

Sounds like the cable might be bad.. Most likely at the swivel..

Unfortunately, it could also be a flooded motor box...

You can buy and replace the cable, but they are expensive, and I would not invest any money in a robot that is over 3 years old.

See this review...


Thanks,

Jim R.

1poolman1 said:

To get the best performance for your pool, you need a big (2.7 or larger) high-head VSP. Your P4 will only "talk" to a Hayward VSP. The Hayward SuperPump you have now is a medium-head, 2-speed, 1hp (1.50 total horsepower based on the rating plate) pump to begin with. Basically, as you have experienced, a medium-head pump can't overcome the resistance that a high-head one can (dirty filter, etc), though you can stop any pump eventually. It is worse on your pumps low speed.

Published pump curves seem to indicate that the Calimar 3hp VSP is a high-head pump. With the addition of an automation adapter (about $50.00 US) you could have some control with your automation.

As to service, that may be another issue as they are not sold through normal pool-parts distributors. So, many pool companies may not be familiar with them or willing to work on one if they can't source, and then get a warranty on, parts. Many who have posted on this site are very happy with them.

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That’s my concern on both being able to get the calimer serviced, does it use parts that are interchangeable with Hayward or does it used non proprietary type parts that can be sourced?

Which automation adapter are you referring to and what does that allow me to do? Can you link it and tell me where most people are ordering the Calimer from please.

Alternatively I could look for a use rebuilt Hayward VSP, is there a specific model you recommend I look for? That will help a lot in my search.

My P4 isn’t compatible with an internet app and the modules to add one on is astronomical in cost, do any of these VSP pumps provide that functionality or will it drive up my cost too much? I am being used though if I go Hayward.

Don't think it's the skimmer door sticking. The pump basket seal would be interesting, except that after messing with the filter, it's much much better...

amoondoe said:

Thanks! Did you chamfer all your pipes? Or am I overthinking this?

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I did deburr the pipe ends with a file, and cut them (mostly) to a 90' but did NOT chamfer them.

TX-Pool said:

One thing that I've learned from automotive diagnosis is test-not-guess.

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If only everyone would do this...

Jim R.

It has a skimmer already and 1 return. I won't be adding a second one. Just to make sure we're on the same page. It is a standard above ground hard sided pool.

Tested my salt level this morning it is 4,050. Guess I will look into ordering a new salt cell this morning

Scandela0629 said:

I just replaced my pump (this was a pond pump), and use the "Blue Monster 1 step PVC cement". Worked like charm.

Please note that I am complete novice at pump plumbing but worked like a charm.

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Also. I just read that it is fast setting as well…did you have any issues with that?

Scandela0629 said:

I just replaced my pump (this was a pond pump), and use the "Blue Monster 1 step PVC cement". Worked like charm.

Please note that I am complete novice at pump plumbing but worked like a charm.

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Thanks! Did you chamfer all your pipes? Or am I overthinking this?

Leaking pump basket seal or skimmer weir door sticking?

Thank you, yes, I've got the same circuit diagrams from my MT manual.

I'll print the troubleshooting info you've referenced and go thru it methodically. One thing that I've learned from automotive diagnosis is test-not-guess.

PGQ24 said:

Dragon Den, robots have a diminish return on investment.

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That's true of all appliances. They'll always be a net expense in exchange for convenience.

Some appliances will always last longer than others, for example we purchased a Speed Queen washer and dryer in 2009. Both still running. 100% analog outlives pretty much anything with digital controls. Simple is almost always the best choice.

Looking at your information, your 65,000 gallon pool is easily double the size of my 20×40 30,000 gallon rectangle pool. I understand your frustration in finding a good robot for your application. Perhaps you can purchase two robots and drop one in each end and see what happens? At any rate, that's a lot of cubic feet of pool to clean.

But you're right about all the marketing hype and model number manipulation. That makes it difficult to make an informed decision.

What robots have you tried so far?

The Rain-R-Shine is a fast setting cement, you have to be quick with it.

While I'm sure there are some benefits to using it over the red All Purpose, the All Purpose will work just fine for this application and should offer more working time before setting.

I just replaced my pump (this was a pond pump), and use the "Blue Monster 1 step PVC cement". Worked like charm.

Please note that I am complete novice at pump plumbing but worked like a charm.