Does anyone with a fiberglass pool with the 'safety ledge' find that the robots (C1 or S1) will clean debris from the ledge when running on wall mode?

We’ve got a hole. Rebar and plumbing up next.

We considered a pool fence with every baby born to our kids. We were going to do the temporary fencing that would sit in holes drilled into the decking. We were never required to do this as no children lived with us. I was also reluctant to drill so many holes in my deck. We never got around to doing it and instead always have myself or my wife as the designated pool watcher when the kids are here. We teach them from the beginning that they do not go off the grass onto the decking. We get them in the pool early and often and we teach each of our grandkids to swim. We also bought swim lessons for each kid too for the parents to get involved in.

Supersix said:

I get a "No Water Flow" message when my pool starts in the morning. In the past, I would receive a notification after the water flow issue was resolved. However, it simply shows "No Water Flow," even though the pool turns on and water comes from the jets. This has been happening for over a month. I rebooted it three times, but it didn't fix the problem. Also, I received an error email notification at 2:30 am this morning. My pool sits idle and doesn't fire until 10am. It's a new build that's two years old—Hayward equipment.

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As JamesW pointed out, it could be a bad flow switch. Also, check the wiring from the switch to the panel. It is possible that it is damaged. Small "critter" like to chew on the insulation (it apparently tastes good to them) and will sometimes cut through the wire itself, or the wire has been exposed and it will eventually break or short-circuit.
In certain more rural areas locally, I have had to run that wire, and temp sensor wire, in PVC conduit to stop the problem.

Tattooed Nurse said:

I do not see water anywhere and my salt has been 3,600 since we started the pool in September. If there was a leak wouldn't we be losing salt?

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Maybe but 1” is way too much loss. Can you visually see the overflow drain and confirm it’s dry?

allykat2296 said:

Pool was build end of summer 2019. We had 2 stones off the hot tub in the last year or so, the builder came and wasn't interested in fixing them. We woke up today to the pic of the multi stones falling off, many others around are loose. Our builder says it is weather related it expansion blah blah. I don't see adhesive around these and feel like it is shoddy work. We have other issues with the pool: rocks leaking ( could be from a freeze but we aren't sure), our concrete is not level and one part of it is angling itself into the grass. We are having repairs done by a different company b/c we don't trust his work anymore. I am just curious If anyone has thoughts why the stone would be coming apart, is this lack of a good mixture, lack of adhesive, rain storm?

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If an area of the deck near the spa is dropping, it can account for the stones coming loose and dropping. Any ground movement can cause enough movement at the wall to break the bond. Also, it is possible that water got behind the stone, froze, broke the bond, and the stone was "waiting" to fall the next time there was any movement.

Yes, the small brick and the small wireless transmitter with 3 lights. Also make sure that the wires going from the brick to the transmitter are also all connected and not broken. They seem to be very brittle.

I will say that I did actually update the firmware on the intella center/easy touch and things seemed to connect a little bit better

ajw22 said:

Welcome to trying to use non-OEM cells. They often cause flaky problems.

My advice is return the cell for a refund and pony up for a genuine Jandy cell.

Do you still have the old cell?

You sure your old cell was a 1400 and not a 700?

Jandy AquaPure SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

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Yes, I am sure it is the 1400. The replacement came in and it worked again then stopped and went back to zero. We have a new code of 170 now. We ordered a Zodiac Jandy brand Salt Cell Flow & Salinity Sensor that should be here Wednesday. What is they typical lifespan on the sensor? It was warranted out at 2 yr 8 months old and we are exactly 2 yrs later replacing it again.

​

Your TA is probably not low once you use your own test kit.

Test Kits Compared

Gingermom said:

I mostly use liquid chlorine unless we are going out of town - although my husband is a huge fan of tablets. I am a bit confused. There is not that much water flow over the lip of the spa, so I don't think the majority of the flow is going into the spa, but are you suggesting that it be less? I know the guy who sold me the new handheld remote suggesting having more go over and adjusted it to do that. I don't remember the downside, but I know I made him put it back. I am not clear from your post which valve you think is the problem or how I check to verify which one I should replace. This did happen before and we replaced the check valve. Sorry I don't clearly understand.

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After looking more closely (can't see all the plumbing), it appears that you have a built-in spa overflow line (the pipe with the check valve near the tablet feeder) that operates all the time the pool system is in "pool" mode.

When the system goes to "spa" the actuator at the valve near that chlorinator will turn it so that the handle faces away from the feeder and all water will go to the spa.

With the actuator stopping where it is in the picture, unless there is another check valve in the pipe farthest from the feeder (again, can't see it all), water will drain from a raised spa when the pump is off. The valve needs to completely shut that line off in "pool" mode. That means someone needs to adjust the actuator. If those are Hayward-brand actuators, which they appear to be, it is a very easy process. Watch the video below.

If there is a check valve in that line, it is probable that the tablet feeder has damaged it.

If your husband really wants to use tablets, a floating chlorinator is the safest way to use them. A floating tablet feeder will allow a constant, though small, amount of chlorine to be added to the pool 24/7. That inline feeder only adds when the pump is running. And, the way it is plumbed does not appear to allow any chlorine from tablets to get into the spa. A second floater, with one tablet only, would solve that.
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The main board talks to the antenna just fine, no issue here.
I removed the new button cell battery and try to clean the slot but there was not much to do, the corrosion on the previous picture was mostly on the old battery itself so I put it back and against all odds, the system is now accepting to stay in service mode !
Maybe the battery was not correctly installed; I don't know, the time on the web app was correct though...
Anyway thank you for your help !

crosby1612 said:

This one from the national plaster council

https://www.nptpool.com/pdf/npc-start-up-card-lsi.pdf

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Good. Follow that.

Use small doses of chemicals and test between doses until you learn how your pool responds.

Can you post up pool water chemistry results from your own test kit?

ajw22 said:

What plaster start-up guide are you using?

Follow your plaster start-up guide, not PoolMath , Leslie, or general chemistry advice, for the first 30 days...

Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

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This one from the national plaster council

Never flex hose although it is tempting.

We need to know details about your pool and equipment to answer specific questions. Best way to tell is is to create your signature with details of your pool and equipment.

silverdou said:

Pool chemistry is excellent. Clarity, sparkle, and feel of water is good. Don't know nuances of the pumping world. That's why I have many questions

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Sound like you are doing fine.

silverdou said:

Salt concentration is ~2900 generator

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Depends what model SWG you have.

silverdou said:

is set for 65% Does that sound right?

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The correct % depends on the gallons in your pool and how long you run your pump and SWG.

silverdou said:

Will get a water sample today and post for info

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We only give chemistry advice based on your own water tests with a Taylor K-2006C or TFT Test Kits

rookie177 said:

90%+ of HVAC swap outs or new installs use these pre-made pads (including multi-million dollar homes).

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Because it is fast and easy.

HVAC people do not plan ahead and they just want to get the job done and get paid.

They also do not want to do the concrete work.

Also, they would have to wait for the concrete to cure, which takes at least 12 hours.

tcat said:

I'm probably overthinking it.

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Yep.

Combination does not matter...but, don't use flex hose...hard plumb it.

CBerger02 said:

Can I assume FC and CYA will be zero since I haven’t added anything?

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I would go ahead and test anyway. Test a full panel of test results.

CBerger02 said:

Then add based on PoolMath calculations?

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With visible algae, I would start the slam process. Print the SLAM article out and keep it with you...Link-->SLAM Process

CBerger02 said:

Should I stick with solid stabilizer and LC for the startup? I’ve read of people using tablets to bump up their FC and CYA values to establish a baseline.

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Yes. Stick with solid.

CBerger02 said:

Or should I get right to SLAMing once pH and TA are in band?

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Yes, but you will need dry stabilizer for the SLAM if your CYA is 0.

CBerger02 said:

I also have a Dolphin robot that I haven’t even opened yet.

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I'd start the slam process. When the algae is dead, throw the dolphin in to help collect it and circulate the water.

Stones, for me, provided the more upscale aesthetic we wanted in the space. Also allows for standing on them. They may say you can in aluminum, but I was suspect and it has to be less solid.

Repairs aren’t cheap when needed, but overall benefits have been fantastic. Yes you do have to move the pump around some, or brush the water to the pump, before opening, but the cleanliness and heat retention are big wins.

Pool chemistry is excellent. Clarity, sparkle, and feel of water is good. Don't know nuances of the pumping world. That's why I have many questions
Salt concentration is ~2900 generator is set for 65% Does that sound right? Will get a water sample today and post for info
Thank you guys for your help with this

It blew the fuse in the power module. I ordered a new flow switch. I'll update when it gets installed. Thanks again to everyone for your help!

silverdou said:

LOL Sorry In my former life I was a water treatment operator for a steam generating facility... Am used to many control knobs/setpoints!!!

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You are at Trouble Free Pool. We look for the simplest, laziest, way of pool care.

We do not need to do job preservation.

What I might think about doing is to get chain link fencing and poles and mount them to the side of the decking; but I think of kind of weird stuff ... I can tell you my wife wouldn't approve of it! It won't be aesthetically pleasing but it should do the job. you can also add a gate. https://www.homedepot.com/s/6 foot high chain link?NCNI-5

For attaching the poles to the deck you can use something like this: Oatey 1-1/2 in. Galvanized 2-Hole Pipe Hanger Strap 33500 - The Home Depot using 2 per pole to hold them on the deck.

If and when you get around to replacing the deck you can get something nicer for the fence. When we went looking for pools we briefly looked at getting an IG pool and the cost for the fence around the pool was going to cost $$$$, actually the whole IG pool was going to cost $$$$$$$ so we went with an AG pool instead!

And I agree about being careful, my youngest son "walked" straight into a pool when he was a toddler to get to my wife/his mom - I was right there and my BIL was in the pool so luckily nothing happened. Here in Jersey (or at least my township) they are super strict on pool codes.

LOL Sorry In my former life I was a water treatment operator for a steam generating facility... Am used to many control knobs/setpoints!!!

Sws said:

I was driving myself nuts... "is that violet or blue"? Lol

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Just add drops until the color does not change. Subtract the last drop.