Steve looked tired by the end.

In your picture, it is in "bo" and Standby.

It needs to be in bo and in Pool or Spa mode.

Thanks for the review. The Jacuzzi pump is mentioned in the Wiki.

Gingermom said:

Thanks. The check valve is in the line coming up from the ground

There is only one check valve and it is the pipe furthest from the chlorinator. I am embarrassed to say I am not 100% clear on the water flow. I know it comes out of the heater - that jandy valve is set to send part of the water into the spa and the rest to the pool. The one that goes to the spa is the one with the check valve. There is another jandy valve that never rotates next to the chlorinator that is always pointed straight down. My assumption is water is passing both down that pipe and across to the pipe that runs under the chlorinator and both feed into the pool. Although, that would indicate only part of the water going into the pool was getting chlorinated. So, the check valve in the pipe furthest from the chlorinator is the problem, but if I close that Jandy valve so that it only feeds into the pool, that would also solve it. Does that sound correct?

Click to expand...

Rotate the pool/spa valve to completely close the spa. It will take opening the actuator and adjusting a cam so it will turn that far. Leave the cover off for now until you're done testing Then run the pump. What happens? Does the spa continue to fill even with the spa port closed?

Turn the pump off. Then, leaving the actuator as is, I would rotate that valve just in front of the chlorinator, that I thought was a check valve (can't see the front) so that the handle points straight up, closing that vertical pipe. Turn the pump on. Does the spa stop filling/overflowing?
If so, that vertical pipe is the "make-up" line.

Without being there and watching the system, it looks like the pipe going into the ground, before the chlorinator valve, could be a spa "make up" line. Its a design so that you can completely close the spa port on the Jandy (actually Hayward) valve that feeds either pool or spa, and not worry about adjusting the actuator position. You get some fresh water to the spa and it overflows daily, as it should.

If that is the case, on a raised spa, the water should enter the spa above, or right in, the tile line so that the spa won't back-flow into the pool when the system is off after it drains down a bit. I've only seen two plumbed that way, but I'm sure there are plenty more.

There is no "standard" way to plumb a pool, each builder has their own idea and what is best. Most, but not all, will explain it to the first person who owns the pool/spa, who will have no real understanding because they don't deal with pools regularly and forget. Can't really expect one to remember a complicated system that they've never used. Or a subsequent owner is on their own to find out.

With a tablet feeder, I would still suspect damage to the check valve. I've seen those feeders damage one of those check valves in less than 6 months.

JamesW said:

bo is normal display when heater is being controlled by a remote thermostat.

No service is required.

If heater is not being controlled by remote thermostat, change setting by using the MODE key to put the heater into STANDBY.

Press and hold the DOWN key and then press and hold the MODE key.

Hold down both keys for 3 seconds until the indication ‘‘bO’’ is removed from the display.

If the display will not change, then the keypad is probably bad.

Click to expand...

Thanks - I think this is it - may not be the only problem - but it's where I will start. I can't get it out of bo and no other error code comes up. the light being out and showing ho threw me. Thanks for your help and all the links. Now to find the part.

The only way you know if pricing is reasonable is by getting at least three bids in your area.

Prices vary widely across regions and how hungry and competitive contractors are.

Save your money.

silverdou said:

Do you guys have an opinion on the vortex skimmer basket("Skimaround)?

Click to expand...

How well do your skimmers work?

Just another way to separate pool owners from more money.

Bperry said:

Ah ok, I’d do a bucket test and really measure it. 1” per day water loss sounds worse than actual desert kinda loss. Kinda hoping it’s not that bad.

Click to expand...

Will do!!

Mstrlucky74 said:

So they want $500 for 28 mil. Think I'll do it. Are there more pros then cons?

Click to expand...

I'll be here 6 years in june and don't recall one thread where a thicker liner caused problems. Not to say it doesn't happen, just that it doesn't come up with any kind of regular occurance.

I see no cons and seeing how we have a 'bag full of water', using a thicker bag is a no brainer IMO.

Mstrlucky74 said:

Also we've narrowed down to 4 Loop Loc liner designs. 2 of them, I just found out, are fully embossed which the girl said means textured throughout, not just the stairs. Any downsides to having fully embossed?

Click to expand...

This is best discussed with the important one. I vote whatever she likes best.

On a serious note, after 20 something years, me and the Mrs came up with a system with liner #2 thats been working mint since. For any decision with too many or too similar choices, I narrow her choices down to 3 based on her general like, then she gets to pick. Frustrated at the liner book she said 'pick me three blue ones', which i did, and boom it was that simple.

Its saved several headaches since from new light fixtures to a SUV.

Do you guys have an opinion on the vortex skimmer basket("Skimaround)?

Tattooed Nurse said:

We have an ATO that has a water filter on it that my husband made.

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Ah ok, I’d do a bucket test and really measure it. 1” per day water loss sounds worse than actual desert kinda loss. Kinda hoping it’s not that bad.

rodaniel said:

I believe what we have is the Pentair Clean & Clear 520. Takes 4 cartridges that are 32" tall x 7" in diameter.

West Texas is dry and dusty all year long, so we have to clean the filters 3 or 4 times per year else the buildup will start impacting the water flow and the vacuum-side cleaner won't move around very well. It's such a fine layer of silt and grime, simply spraying the filters off doesn't quite cut it. Plus, we've found that the amount of time & water used when spraying the filters is significantly reduced if we soak the filters overnight.

The rubber ends of my filters are starting to crumble away a little. Not enough to compromise the structure yet, but enough to be noticeable when I'm cleaning them.

Click to expand...

As you can see, any filter can be overwhelmed by the conditions around a pool, even a monster 520.

I used to hate servicing pools anywhere close to where horses were boarded, especially before large-capacity (300sq. ft. and up) were available. They stirred too much dust into the air. That was always a weekly cleaning and too-quick cartridge replacements, but most customers had a hard time believing theirs was worn out. If at all possible I would get them to go to a large sand filter. Even then it still, usually, required a backwash twice a month.

The pool's environment plays a big part in maintenance and cartridge longevity. I have a very "green" pool setting, but even a moderate wind can trash the pool. Five trees gone, four to go.

With the end cap deteriorating, it is time for new now. They will fail (large crack) and and the debris will overwhelm your chlorine and you get a nice green color. And you probably have small enough cracks now to let some fine debris through.

Also, it is mostly the cleanings that wear out cartridges. You can ask the manufacturer about that, but that was always a selling point to the industry for large-capacity filters, you clean less so less wear on the cartridge. They, and we, liked selling more product, of course. But we also have to keep customers happy or we won't have anyone to purchase anything when needed.

When you spray, you do so at an angle and high pressure (but NEVER a pressure washer). The debris is usually abrasive, think what that fine dust would do in an auto's engine. As it is removed, it abrades the very tiny fibers that make up the cartridge. Pretty soon the cartridge gets "hairy" and is done.

Soaking cartridges is the best way to clean, especially with fine dust that is hard to remove. And it can be forced into the fabric with high pressure water from a hose nozzle, which is another issue with frequent cleaning.

Check for voltage at the Omni panel.

I would replace any valves with diverters. They can be rebuilt. Jandy, Pentair, Hayward and CMP are all good brands of diverters.

chrger1970 said:

I have to change the valves on the suction side of my pool. They are over 25 years old, and the handles broke off a few years ago. I was wondering if I should do the extra work and replace the elbows with sweep elbows? Would I really gain anything in doing that?

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You are unlikely to see a difference.

I would not go out of my way to add sweeps. If you were putting in a 90 and could do a sweep instead then do it.

chrger1970 said:

Normal pressure with a clean element is around 18-19 psi. It seems when the pool was built in 1998 that's all they used was 90 degree elbows, but are the 90 degree sweeps reduce the pressure? What do you guys think? Thanks for reading.

Click to expand...

Tell us about your pool and equipment by creating your signature with details of your pools and equipment.

Sweeps have no benefit in modern low flow VS pump operation.

So they want $500 for 28 mil. Think I'll do it. Are there more pros then cons?

Also we've narrowed down to 4 Loop Loc liner designs. 2 of them, I just found out, are fully embossed which the girl said means textured throughout, not just the stairs. Any downsides to having fully embossed? Thanks

1poolman1 said:

After looking more closely (can't see all the plumbing), it appears that you have a built-in spa overflow line (the pipe with the check valve near the tablet feeder) that operates all the time the pool system is in "pool" mode.

When the system goes to "spa" the actuator at the valve near that chlorinator will turn it so that the handle faces away from the feeder and all water will go to the spa.

With the actuator stopping where it is in the picture, unless there is another check valve in the pipe farthest from the feeder (again, can't see it all), water will drain from a raised spa when the pump is off. The valve needs to completely shut that line off in "pool" mode. That means someone needs to adjust the actuator. If those are Hayward-brand actuators, which they appear to be, it is a very easy process. Watch the video below.

If there is a check valve in that line, it is probable that the tablet feeder has damaged it.

If your husband really wants to use tablets, a floating chlorinator is the safest way to use them. A floating tablet feeder will allow a constant, though small, amount of chlorine to be added to the pool 24/7. That inline feeder only adds when the pump is running. And, the way it is plumbed does not appear to allow any chlorine from tablets to get into the spa. A second floater, with one tablet only, would solve that.
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Click to expand...

Thanks. The check valve is in the line coming up from the ground

1poolman1 said:

After looking more closely (can't see all the plumbing), it appears that you have a built-in spa overflow line (the pipe with the check valve near the tablet feeder) that operates all the time the pool system is in "pool" mode.

When the system goes to "spa" the actuator at the valve near that chlorinator will turn it so that the handle faces away from the feeder and all water will go to the spa.

With the actuator stopping where it is in the picture, unless there is another check valve in the pipe farthest from the feeder (again, can't see it all), water will drain from a raised spa when the pump is off. The valve needs to completely shut that line off in "pool" mode. That means someone needs to adjust the actuator. If those are Hayward-brand actuators, which they appear to be, it is a very easy process. Watch the video below.

If there is a check valve in that line, it is probable that the tablet feeder has damaged it.

If your husband really wants to use tablets, a floating chlorinator is the safest way to use them. A floating tablet feeder will allow a constant, though small, amount of chlorine to be added to the pool 24/7. That inline feeder only adds when the pump is running. And, the way it is plumbed does not appear to allow any chlorine from tablets to get into the spa. A second floater, with one tablet only, would solve that.
Login to view embedded media

Click to expand...

There is only one check valve and it is the pipe furthest from the chlorinator. I am embarrassed to say I am not 100% clear on the water flow. I know it comes out of the heater - that jandy valve is set to send part of the water into the spa and the rest to the pool. The one that goes to the spa is the one with the check valve. There is another jandy valve that never rotates next to the chlorinator that is always pointed straight down. My assumption is water is passing both down that pipe and across to the pipe that runs under the chlorinator and both feed into the pool. Although, that would indicate only part of the water going into the pool was getting chlorinated. So, the check valve in the pipe furthest from the chlorinator is the problem, but if I close that Jandy valve so that it only feeds into the pool, that would also solve it. Does that sound correct?

I'm slamming away! Thanks for the help!

Pesh said:

What's odd is that I dont think I have a personality card, however, my system registers as an i10PS. The IC that I have was an upgrade kit to an IntelliTouch i9.

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Standard card is a i5P. Anything beyond a i5P has a personality card.

Show us pics of your board.

ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.

You can see the remnants of the thinset on the wall and stones. We don't know the quality of the thinset used or the thickness.

Water may have been leaking in between the joints of the stones and eroding the thinset that loosened the stones.

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Thanks for the welcome! We are going to have someone, not the builder, come out to advise us. I was curious about water leaking in the joints and hoping it’s not a huge fix.

Dambra said:

Thanks as well.

Same questions for you:

How often do you find yourself lifting stones and cleaning out housing?

Do you find your stones feel secure/level to walk on, or do you avoid it?

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I’ve probably lifted them 4 times in 12 years.

I asked kids to avoid it. But I walk on it. I just don’t dive from it. I probably could but I’m under 150. A lot of weight on the leading edge could possibly tip it a bit. It does overhang a small amount. I also asked kids to avoid it because our dam wall extends 1’ beyond the stones and it is a slight hazard in that regard. The temptation would be to step on the tiles which are angled towards the pool and then slip. Bad.

"however I was trying to spend less on a meter"

I've had good results using cheap chinese pH meters. In UK they state "ATC" (auto temp compensated) and come with calibration solutions. I keep that in a sealed jar for a few months. Used fairly regularly you'll get to know what result to expect so if it's way out then first check against calibration solution, adjust if necessary and try again..... otherwise it's bin time! I usually have two on the go at the same time and compare results for this reason. Apparently it's best to keep a few drops of water in the cap when not in use. At the price of these (cheap as chips or probably less these days!!) it's certainly worth a go and if you need further assurance then try comparing the result against another method just to give you some confidence. See attached...hope that helps you.