CO2 pH Control

crosby1612

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2024
98
richmond VA
Pool Size
11000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Does anyone have experience with the CircuPool TOTALBalance pH Control System? 12k gal, no spa, SWG, plaster. This will be my second season with the pool after it was built. Spent last season constantly adding acid and never got the pH under 8. I was adding about a gallon of MA every 4-5 days and just don't want to deal with that again. All other chemistry levels were within normal limits all season. pH was the only issue. I understand plaster pools inherently have a higher pH until fully cured, but I'm tired of constantly dealing with liquid acid so I'm wondering if a CO2 system might be the answer. Thanks
 
What is your TA, and what is the TA of your fill water?
How old is the pool? pH rise typically takes 6-18 months to settle down.

The downside of the CO2 system is that it lowers pH but not TA. Most residential pools can get relatively stable pH by allowing the TA to drop until the water finds its equilibrium. If TA is high it draws up the pH so we add acid which lowers both and corrects the problem now and makes headway towards correcting it long-term. With CO2 you don't actually make any headway towards correcting the problem, so if the TA is high then you just burn through CO2 maintaining pH = $$$$

Likely a better solution would be to add a stenner pump and tank on a timer. I would not bother with pH probe feedback and all that complication. Just simply set the acid dosing pump to run for a short time once a day and then test and adjust as needed. Since any pH in the 7s is just fine.

The best solution is to lower your TA, to reduce your pH rise.
 
Does anyone have experience with the CircuPool TOTALBalance pH Control System? 12k gal, no spa, SWG, plaster. This will be my second season with the pool after it was built. Spent last season constantly adding acid and never got the pH under 8. I was adding about a gallon of MA every 4-5 days and just don't want to deal with that again. All other chemistry levels were within normal limits all season. pH was the only issue. I understand plaster pools inherently have a higher pH until fully cured, but I'm tired of constantly dealing with liquid acid so I'm wondering if a CO2 system might be the answer. Thanks
Like said above. Pool store will push artificially high TA which makes the pH rise faster. Letting the TA get down to 50-60ppm results in a pretty stable pH. I also had my plaster done last year and just kept a trichlor tab in a floater all season and it kept my pH fairly stable along with the TA. I think I maybe added acid once.
 
I was adding about a gallon of MA every 4-5 days and just don't want to deal with that again.
That does not make any sense.

1 gallon of 31.45% acid in 11,000 gallons of pool water will lower the pH by about 1.6 and the TA by 46 ppm.

What is the TA?

Are you adding baking soda to raise the TA?

Is the calcium increasing?

What is the CSI?

1742909240224.png
1742909275367.png
 
Question about poolmath vs leslie's pool chemical recommendations:

My pH is high after a replaster (8.7).

Leslie's is telling me to add 64 oz of MA to get the pH down to 7.6.

PoolMath is saying to add 30 oz.

TA 123 / pH 8.7 / CH 125

Why the huge difference in MA? Who do I trust?
 
Trust your TF Pro test kit and pool math. (stay away from Leslie's testing).

Lower your pH in .4 increments. Add acid, test 30 minutes later. Repeat until you hit your target. See note in pool math "effects of adding"

1742919395000.png
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
8.7 is difficult to measure unless you have a good calibrated meter.

Be careful about overdosing based on pH testing over 8.0.

FC and CYA levels?

Note that FC over 10 can cause false high pH readings.
FC and CYA are 0. Brand new replaster 2 days ago; haven't added yet.
 
Trust your TF Pro test kit and pool math. (stay away from Leslie's testing).

Lower your pH in .4 increments. Add acid, test 30 minutes later. Repeat until you hit your target. See note in pool math "effects of adding"

View attachment 634279
Why stay away from Leslie's testing? I don't about you, but the color variations on the pH drop test for me are next to impossible to discern. Isn't it better to have an actual number for the pH instead of guessing at a color?
 
Get this meter and begin to manage the CSI.


Begin to lower the TA, keep the pH at about 8.0 to 8.3 and adjust the CH to balance the CSI.

Note that as the water warms up, the CSI will increase, so anticipate this when adding calcium and do not add too much.

Get the TA down to about 60 ppm.
 
. Isn't it better to have an actual number for the pH instead of guessing at a color?
If you can certify the # is accurate, sure.

But their inaccuracies and advice keeps a line of newbs around the corner seeking a better way.
 
Why stay away from Leslie's testing?
It is not as accurate...we get lots of people that come with Leslie's testing, end up with a proper kit and are amazed at how inaccurate Leslie's testing is...

Testing_Accuracy.jpeg

Follow @JamesW and @ajw22 advice on the startup...
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support