1poolman1 said:

Uprated Whisperflow. You can change the motor to a variable-speed one.

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Sorry what does this mean? I can leave the housing and just get a new motor?

Wow thanks guys!
I did not know its illegal.
I get the energy consumption. But i'm paying for it every month with my electricity bill. There are things that use much more energy (Like AC units) which are still perfectly legal.

My pool equipment is located at the side of my house and under a permanent attached canopy, with a roof/shingles. Its open except for the roof.
Noise is not a factor for me.
The loudest thing is the Spa blower anyway, and it's a brand new one.
I have a salt cell. Replace filters every 6 months at minimum. Have a robotic pool cleaner.

Maintenance is really a non factor.

Plan on adding a float switch in the pool skimmer with an auto top off in the coming weeks.
I like to have everything as automated as possible.

So would you guys suggest the expensive hayward pump or would you suggest the much cheaper Calimar?
Or any other suggestions?

I'm out of ideas now, so it looks like I am just going to have to live with a non-fully primed pump and deal with air eventually getting into the filter requiring purging.

I am removing the skimmer/main-drain diverter from the bottom of the skimmer to alleviate at least a little head.

I'll also try removing the floating weir (I'll see if I actually need it), since it appears to be somewhat restrictive also.

I will probably return the flapper to the check valve that's located between the filter and the heater(s), since it will help avoid any inadvertent reverse flow that may accidentally send my DE from the filter either to the pool or to my vacuum-to-waste pipe.

I plan to change from full-time (24/7) pumping at 1700 RPM to a significantly less time per day. Hope that doesn't cause more problems.

I'm still open for suggestions, but it seems we have exhausted everything except an underground air leak. I suppose I could still rebuild all the PVC connections on the suction side of the pump even though the hose flooding method didn't detect anything there. Maybe I will try that sometime.

Anyway, thanks again for everyone's help to date.

Who can provide me with the correct gallons for my pool? Here is the diagram. PB says it’s 22,800. But pool math is not adding up when I added chemicals. Thanks.

Most likely the thermistor on the heater manifold.

You can test the thermistor using a multimeter and measure the ohms which indicate the temperature it is reporting.

Another lower cost alternative for us thrifty folks. Same part:

Mr. Muriaticacid said:

I was afraid that it would totally separate one day when I wasn’t around and cause major chaos to my equipment! It was painful to shell out $1400 but you can’t put a price on safety.

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I fully agree that Murphy is a jerkwad.

Here's the deconstruction thread so you can see what's going on inside.


I'm 99.6% sure its a hairline crack inside that would never cause a problem. So long as you don't leave the property for more than an hour. And sleeping is out too. But otherwise, it'll never fail.

LordNorth said:

I have been running high speed on the pump trying to turn over the water as fast as possible

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I am firmly on team 'more flow makes more mixing'.

You can also speed it along by adding DE

DaveInPhx said:

Scrolling through the menus to toggle a circuit is more complicated than I'm interested in

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Dave,

Whatever works for you, but it is right at the first page and takes less than 10 seconds..

I suspect that what is happening with the heater is that they have a speed assigned to the "Either heater" circuit, on the pump speed page. So, when he pushes the heater button, the system calls for heat which in turn tells the pump to increase to whatever speed is assigned to "Either heater". Not quite the same as assigning a random circuit name to the heater button..

ScreenLogic is old and does not work well with the new mesh home Wi-Fi systems.. Is that what the installed?

Thanks,

Jim R.

paul1971 said:

Just surprised about their salt reading at 1000.

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Salt, CH and CYA need 24 hours to mix at opening the same way they do during the season.

I have the sock attached with the clamp. And I ordered a replacement for the broken part

The precise level of borates is not important. Any level over 50 ppm gets the desired results. Test strips can indicate when it is time to add some.

Jimrahbe said:

Dave,

"Pool High" is just a Circuit Name.. It could be "Jim"... It is just a name, that by itself, does nothing..

What does it do on a schedule?? I suspect it just changes the pump speed.

I don't see how you could assign it to the heater button...

If it just changes the pump speed, then most likely it is a Feature Circuit.. If that is the case, it can be turned on or off by using the little 3" LCD

Menu, scroll to find Feature Circuit with a name of "Pool High" and turn it on or off..

Edit... What is it you are actually trying to do??

Thanks,

Jim R.

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Edit: Well, nevermind. I just read through the manual and it says that the Solar button can only be used in Service mode. But it also says the same thing about the Heater button, and also that it does not activate the pump(!), so now I'm curious about what I thought was going on with Customer B's panel. We shall see....

Edit 2: The plot thickens! The manual says the Solar button can be used outside of Service Mode to control the AUX EXTRA circuit. It looks like I can assign Pool High to AUX EXTRA, set it as an egg timer schedule and activate it with the Solar button. I will post back my results.

Thanks, Jim. I knew that about the circuit name, and Pool High does in fact just kick the pump speed up for the cleaning cycle.

Scrolling through the menus to toggle a circuit is more complicated than I'm interested in, and I'd just as soon put the panel into timeout and hit Quick Clean on the pump.

I have another customer that I'm certain has the heater button programmed to run a higher pump speed and nothing else (he has no heater), but I'll have to check this when I'm at his pool this coming week. I don't know if Heater and Solar operate differently, but I'll confirm and, if I'm right about Heater, I'll poke around in the settings to see how it was configured.

Customer A has his panel connected to a Screenlogic interface which would be just fine, but something happened with his home internet and now neither of us can connect to Screenlogic from the app.

That is normal.

fabsroman said:

An analogy that I can use is a vehicle starting up, you driving a mile down the road, the vehicle deciding that the mpg/efficiency of the engine is not optimal, and then shutting down. I guess another vehicle analogy is that an emission sensor returns a code and the vehicle's computer just decides to shut down.

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I have owned cars like that.

ajw22 said:

Seems the cell was not insane all along.

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Yeah, you continue to harp on that.

I still think it is insane that it WILL produce chlorine upon startup, but it then determines that the parameters are not good enough to create chlorine anymore.

An analogy that I can use is a vehicle starting up, you driving a mile down the road, the vehicle deciding that the mpg/efficiency of the engine is not optimal, and then shutting down. I guess another vehicle analogy is that an emission sensor returns a code and the vehicle's computer just decides to shut down.

Sort of like somebody saying, "Sure I can do it, but I just don't feel like doing it because it is too much work."

Sounds like insanity to me, but we can agree to disagree on this one.

Welcome to TFP!

1000% this is one big reason we strongly discourage using floc. Most important thing now is to get as much out as possible and not allowing it to go through your filter. Fill your pool as high as possible, shut down filtration and allow it to settle and vacuum to waste as slowly as you can. By the sound of it it might be impossible to get everything, but every bit that doesn't eventually get caught in your filter is an increased chance you won't need to replace the filter media.

I wrote about that recently...

PoolStored said:

Yeah, turn it off, and let FC come back down into range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Then turn it back on.
In the future, tell them you want a "no chemical" opening at a reduced cost.
You can handle startup.

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Totally also because the only thing they put is LC…..
Just surprised about their salt reading at 1000. They were ready to add 200 LBS of salt…..crazy

Jim,

This morning both buttons worked just fine. It seems there was some sort of electrical connection issue in the switches that wore off after many presses. I saw the blinking (once or twice) of the power light today that let's me know the robot is ON. However, this afternoon the Start/Stop button had problems again. Rapid pressing again did get it to turn ON, so I'm thinking it will just improve over time.

If others have problems initially with the buttons on the control box, just press them firmly many times in rapid succession. That should get you going.

For the dust, I don't really mind that it takes a few runs to get it up. It is such great help to me versus manual vacuuming that I don't mind it at all. I do need to help it out a little in areas like corner platforms, steps and sharpish pool corners, but I just brush those to the bottom and the bot gets them there. Yes, I use the optional Fine Filter Canister (it is truly EXTRA fine!) and recommend that to others if you have fine stuff to vacuum up.

And the filter is so fast & easy to clean! Just spray it briefly with water and everything just slides right out.

Until I make or buy a caddy, just a couple of 7-inch scrap 2x4 pieces side-by-side works well to elevate the treads and brushes off the floor for storing out of the pool (and in the shade).


Thanks Jim, for your robot (and other) expertise helping everyone here.