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Compatibility with Blue Torrent variable speed pump/filter

PoolStored
1poolman1 said:
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Dead link for me...

poolpartstogo.com

Automation-Capable Variable Speed Pump Adapter

This keypad replaces the original keypad for a Blue Torrent Cyclone, Sunnora, or BLACK+DECKER Inground Variable Speed pool pumps. It provides all the same functionality as the original keypad, but also includes the capability for relay-triggered control to allow virtually any automation system...
poolpartstogo.com poolpartstogo.com
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Old Chlorine - Check Mfg Date if you can

D
Bought 3 pack of HDX 10% Chlorine at Home Depot. Put it in pool and tested to .5 PPM. Looked up code on the box and it was made on July 25, 2024, Liquid Chlorine loses 50% of its potency in 6 months and 90% in a year.
I only knew because the 3 pack box had a date code on it and TFP has a code conversion in the forum. Going back for a refund. They should be ashamed.
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Compatibility with Blue Torrent variable speed pump/filter

1
justjenn33 said:
How do I check the if the connection is RS485? The model is BT-IGV150.
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That pump is the same as the Calimar/Circupool/Black&Decker. It will require the automation adapter to be controlled somewhat automation. It allows relay inputs to change the speeds that are set in the motor itself. That makes any brand automation able to have some control.
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Hayward DE Filter - reassembly question

1
pgershon said:
I went to put it back on and it looks to me like it was broken off. I reattached the filter with the rod hanging down, which is how it was. But I suspect it is all supposed to be one piece. Hopefully this will at least be an improvement as the filter is clamped on. I ordered a replacement as well. Photo shows the two pieces.
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What "rod hanging down" are you taking about? If the stainless through rod that holds the whole grid assembly together, it is supposed to have a nut and washer at the bottom spreader and wing nut and washer at the top so the whole assembly can be taken apart and then held together by that long rod that is threaded at each end. it doesn't just hang down.
For now, you can take that broken part out of the manifold and install the part with the sock into the manifold. The sock should be held on with a clamp.
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SLAM Complete: Still Milky

L
PoolStored said:
Post pictures of the pool.
Have you done ALL of these?
  • Brush and vacuum the entire pool once a day if you can. Brush inside skimmers, under main drain covers, on weir doors, inside ladders, and behind removable lights if applicable.
Sand filters take the longest to clear the pool.
What RPM are you running on your VSP? Running lower RPM will filter better.
Backwash your filter, note clean pressure. When your pressure rises 25%, clean it again. When you check your filter pressure run your VSP at 3000, then turn down to low speed to aid filtering efficiency.
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Yes, I have done ALL of those... EXCEPT running on low speed. I have been running high speed on the pump trying to turn over the water as fast as possible.

As I posted, I am brushing as much as I can see. I run the brush over the bottom of the pool, but who knows if I am anywhere close to getting everywhere.

I don't have any ladders or doors installed yet.

This is at least the 8th year that I have opened the pool and slammed and the first that it has ever taken this long. I will take some photos when I get home this evening.

Thanks!
Chris
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Gunnite & Tile Repair

B
mattrosenberry said:
Recent new homeowner going on our second season and dealing with pool tile issue. I'm comfortable with basic tile repair for pools, but the erosion behind the recently loosened/fallen tiles has me a bit concerned. Gunnite has chipped away or eroded into sand leaving larger gap needed for repair then what thinset would be designed for. 1) Is this of major structural concern? (I will mention it is concrete slab cantilever style coping/decking if it is relevant) 2) If no, I'm thinking this is a job for hydraulic cement to patch the eroded gunnite to be flush with the remainder of thell shell and do standard tile repair via thinset and grouting?

The pool is 22 years old and I am inclined to believe prior owner was not the best at pool chemistry upkeep and was a frequent DIYer, but the quality of some of his patchwork tiling appears to be spotty which may have lead to the further erosion of the gunnite behind the tiling.

Any insight or perspective is appreciated.
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Welcome. It would be wise to patch it up with hydraulic cement before putting new thinset, tile and grout. There’s a waterproofing membrane that can be had that may also help prevent more water intrusion.

But 22 years might be worthwhile to pull all of the tile and replace it since there’s probably more that is leaking and just hasnt come loose yet.
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Hayward DE Filter - reassembly question

P
I went to put it back on and it looks to me like it was broken off. I reattached the filter with the rod hanging down, which is how it was. But I suspect it is all supposed to be one piece. Hopefully this will at least be an improvement as the filter is clamped on. I ordered a replacement as well. Photo shows the two pieces.
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Pentair Filter Pump shutting off

1
duxthaman said:
The volute on my Polaris pump cracked the other day. Happened to be home when I saw the water spraying everywhere. Replaced and started up my 2.0 HP filter pump. Was having a little issue with getting a solid prime but it’s normally got a few bubbles blowing through my returns. After about 10-15 mins of semi-priming the pump just turned off. I checked the impeller and found no obstructions. I used a drain bladder while it was off to try and clear any other debris. Turned pump back on and it fired up with a not of trouble priming. Turned it back off after 30 seconds and filled the basket with water and tightened the lid. I stuck a drain bladder down a return line in one of my skimmers. Turned pump back on and it fired up. I was able to get a prime after a minute or two. Came back out a few mins later and prime was lost, but then I heard it catch again and it primed but blowing a lot of bubbles. A few mins later the pump cut off again. No visible leaks in my piping. I did notice the basket on the pump housing was whining a lot after it turned off. When I opened the cap the pressure released and it stopped.

The pump is about 6 years old. Is it overheating from not getting a prime or is it time for a new one?
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Which Pentair pump do you have?
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Damaged Waterfall Weir

1
MichiganBruce said:
Thanks for the reply. The bottom section of this fixture does look like the Jandy Sheer Decent Waterfall you shared, but my fixture has the unusual 45 degree turn at the top. Makes me wonder if this was actually a Jandy Sheer Arc Waterfall that was incorrectly installed to make it work like a Sheer Descent (maybe there wasn't enough water pressure to get the arc effect). I cannot find any photos or drawings of a Sheer Arc fixture. Could this be Part No. 1218CSA Sheer Arc Waterfall?

I could replace it with the Jandy Sheer Descent with Bottom Feed, but it may not perform exactly like the other existing waterfall fixture.
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Spoke with a friend who is a builder. While the diagrams usually show the installation in a horizontal orientation, the fixture can be installed in any way that will provide the desired effect. That may be what the builder of your pool did.
Its not pressure, but flow, that determines the way those falls look, usually requiring 20 - 30 GPM/foot of length.
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SWG Install and Opening Help

reaton
Last check CYA was 40, down from 50. I added LC this morning around 6:30 AM to SLAM up to 20 FC. I just checked and my FC is still at 17. I guess that's good? Means most bad stuff is dead. Deep end is still a little cloudy, can't completely see the bottom. I've had to turn the pump off for a few hours while the water level gets back up after back washing and vacuuming. So hopefully I'll get that back on in a couple hours ans resume testing.
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Granddaddy starting a new project

HermanTX
Good luck with your project. Keep us posted as it progresses.
It is a good start using a SWCG as that will make it easier to manage the chemicals. Be sure to get get a good test kit and get the salt kit with it. The TF Pro with Salt is good value but review the following
Test Kits Compared

You will need to have some muractic acid on hand as well as salt to add to the pool. When you get a test kit, test your tap water or whatever water you plan to use to fill the pool. Post those for feedback.

Also check out the PoolMath app. it is an easy app to track your test data as well as guide you on what and how much chemicals to add when needed.
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Pentair Mastertemp 400 not turning on from Easy TouchPanel

V
History on this. Rodents have been around for sure. Evidenced by the bottom of the insulation under the heat exchanger disappearing and some previous nests. The transformer had previously failed. It wasn’t initially showing any power to the heater board and no power output from the transformer. Also didn’t ohm out correctly. So I replaced it. This failure happened over 3 years ago. Transformer blew, blower replaced, new oem heater board replaced. Heater worked 3 times then the no power failure occurred. Waited three years since, and then the manifold housing started leaking so I replaced the manifold and orings. Heat exchanger inlet pipes still look good. Then attempting to repair this current issue. Another new transformer, new heater board. So it has been an idiots Journey. I truly hope I am surrounded by geniuses because this is getting expensive. Lol
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Leaky diverter

S
Well - my brain does not seem to be firing on all cylinders.
The goo is called "Pool Lube" for a reason. If you coat a stopper with it, the stopper doesn't stop - it just slides out of the pipe the more you tighten it. I did find that the valve does leak a bit of water too - a little flow pushed the stopper completely out.
Naptha does an OK job of removing the goo (PTFE kind). A bazillion tight wraps of tape around the pipe/stopper did not change the small air leak. So perhaps it is someplace else, also. Time to take off the lid, and check that seal along with the relief valve. Thanks for the tip.

But the temp has dropped, and it is now 45 outside, so that will be a tomorrow project.
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Looking for a way to test GPM at each return

1
sorpasorpa said:
I see what you mean. For some reason I was thinking the meters would be calibrated to account for their own resistance and give you a reading without that but that wouldn't make sense.
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Why would you want or need to know the flow at each return? Unless each line was valved individually it would be information only and could serve no purpose other than satisfying curiosity or drive you crazy trying to do something about "unbalanced" flow.
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Anybody Ever Seen This?

Mr. Muriaticacid
I installed this IC40 in May of 2018. It still works flawlessly. The problem I have with it is the top half of the housing is starting to separate at the forward end. At higher speeds it leaks right where the gray adhesive(?) is visible. I was afraid that it would totally separate one day when I wasn’t around and cause major chaos to my equipment! It was painful to shell out $1400 but you can’t put a price on safety. I plan on keeping it,just in case, and knowing that I need to keep the pump speed down low. I was just curious if anybody has seen this or if it’s possible to fix it.
One other thing, on the old IC40 I could run the pump as low as 600 rpm but the new one triggers the flow light if I try to go that low, odd.IMG_2447.jpeg
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