Welcome to TFP.

You might want to read this to see where TFP thinking differs from your CPO training...


It is up to you to use TFP thinking where you can while meeting the various regulations for your pools.

pjt said:

3' is extremely shallow. I'd recommend 4' for the shallow end.


Get the IntelliFlo3


Get a robot.


I wouldn't recommend an IFCS. Adds a lot of cost, complexity, and potential failure points to your pool. A robot will clean much better at a tiny fraction of the price.


Make sure they all point away from the house/main seating area.

Definitely get a SWCG. Are you getting a heater or chiller? How many returns?

Equipment Pad Best Practices - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Construction Best Practices - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback! Good call on the in-floor cleaning; I’ll ask to have that removed. I don’t think I’ll need a heater (pool will get full sun and no deep end) but a chiller might be nice for AZ. I’m not sure what you mean by returns?

Depending on how the abandoned pressure pipe is run, it could be used for an autofill or autofill/autodrain.

Ugh. Total bummer. Sorry that happened.

kul said:

Do you know what led to the crack? Could you get it covered under warranty?

Click to expand...

My guess is ice but not sure as the pool was winterized. I have a feeling that won't be covered. I'll try. Next year I will bring that inside. Dang.

Sorry forgot, Cc is 0

Wolfepack88 said:

Wonder if they ever just get used to it.

Click to expand...

Racoons do. Deer probably do, too. It's a free meal and they're all wearing raincoats! What do they care?!

L,

If you are following the TFP Pool Care Process, you should never have to add Shock Packets on a routine basis..

If you always keep your FC and CYA in the proper relationship, no shock is needed...

FC/CYA Levels

Thanks,

Jim R.

Welcome to TFP!!!

So you are aware...TFP is focused on residential pools and spas. Our advice and recommendations, in many ways, will NOT meet the requirements of a commercial pool.

Julie,

So far I am still in "love" with it....

When the Dolphin robots I have at a couple rent houses die, they will be replaced by EVOs..

The legend is a pressure cleaner, so you would no longer need to run the booster pump.

Some people cap off the booster and others also convert the old pipe into the pool into another Pool Return.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Menard's has about the best price on liquid chlorine available in the Chicago area. $4.44 per gallon after discount. Link to Menards--> Pro-Clor Liquid Pool Shock - 1 Gallon

Wolfepack88 said:

Yes sentry guns! You ever see the motion detected water hose that sprays the deer. Wonder if they ever just get used to it. My wife yells at the deer through the ring cameras all the time. In NJ they are everywhere and basically give you the big middle finger unless you literally get right on top of them. We need wolves back in the ecosystem and nature would balance herself again. They effectively have no predators in our area to speak of as the bears are few and far between unless you are really in the sticks.

Click to expand...

Perhaps security cameras with facial recognition that shoot tear gas pellets at unfamiliar intruders …

Welcome! We do not recommend shocking. Instead we recommend you read the following and use liquid chlorine or a SWG.

Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
PoolMath

Update- looks like you’re not new! Stick with the liquid chlorine you’ve been using as noted in your pool math logs.

Do you know what led to the crack? Could you get it covered under warranty?

Steve,

The original cell should have a two year warranty???

There is no way to move or transfer the internal components.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Newdude said:

Ironically that's worse. With a blood sugar of 100, the meters are +/- 20, which is the high and low #s (120 or 80) usually needing a correction. You could be dead on perfect and be considering a correction on either end.

It's the diabetes version of testing at Leslie's.

Click to expand...

Obviously I am not a doctor, but I was hoping that glucose test was more precise - oh well - bad analogy.

nodiaque said:

Hello everyone,

I found out I have a small leak on the tube going upward from my pomp to my filter. I try putting it tighter but it didn't help. Looking at the installation, it seems there's some kind of silicone that was applied at the installation. How do I fix this?

Thank you!

Click to expand...

The silicone will pull off easily. You can't seal a pressure leak from the outside with silicone. Remove the union, with Teflon tape wrap about 5 or 6 tight wraps, put a bit of silicone sealant over that and reinstall the union. In the picture the part is already threaded in too far. There should always be about 3-5 threads showing in a properly tightened fitting like that. If it has to be threaded in all the way to stop the leak, get a new union, the existing one is ruined.

Ignoramus said:

it is a bad reagent

Click to expand...

The CYA reagent is super stable and tends to last longer than most other reagents. If you changed one thing (reagent) and got a completely different result, it is likely the reagent (or testing procedure if that changed).

Is the leak coming from the connection into the top of the pump? That large diameter white piece looks like a union. that union has a seal in it. Could that be leaking “down” and it appears the leak is from the black connection? If it is the Union, then just undo it, lube the seal in it and retighten.

If it is the connection to the pump, then I would stop the pump, undo the Union and then unscrew the piece going into the pump. Adding more silicone won’t help. It is best to unscrew it, check the threads and also there may be an oring seal, lube it and reinstall it.

Aquaphobic said:

I also know that raising and lowering chlorine has an opposite effect on pH reading.

Click to expand...

Lifted from the Ph Wiki :

What is the Effect of Adding Liquid Chlorine on pH?[edit]​

It is a myth that liquid chlorine will raise pH. The myth is based on a misunderstanding of chlorine chemistry.

Adding liquid chlorine to water can cause a temporary increase in pH which is usually offset by the chlorine reacting with organics and biological matter which are acidic (creates a proton) reactions. Thus, on balance, the net chlorine reactions are pH neutral.[7]

Most retail and commercial liquid chlorine products contain a small excess of lye from the manufacturing process but this amount of OH- is minimal and does not change the pH with normal levels of liquid chlorine use.

If one were to add significant amounts of liquid chlorine (for example, raising the pool water chlorine concentration to SLAM FC levels), then the pH rise would need to be offset by an initial lower of the pH with acid. This is why TFP requires a pool owner to adjust their pH down to 7.2 prior to starting the SLAM Process.

Adding liquid chlorine DOES increase the pH at first, however as it's used up the acid that's created lowers it back down to where it was before......thus equaling each other out making it pH neutral.



The TFP Wiki is towards the bottom of any forum page and also in the left screen sidebar. Browse through whenever you have a thought/question. Peruse anything relevant to you in your free time.

Now you are a year out on the EVO. Do you still like it? Also new to robots as we have a Legend Platinum that needs replacing. What do you do on the side of the pool where the legend currently connects. Is there a cap or something as it would no loner be used? Thanks.

JessicaE said:

Do you have any idea what dollar amounts I may be looking at? Thank you so much for your advice.

Click to expand...

I do not. There are many variables. Where do you live? Rural? Good luck finding pool companies. City? One with lots of pools = lots of pool company options.

You have "Layers" of issues to inspect and confirm

1. Is the concrete shell sound, if yes, then you might get away with a new plaster if needed. If not, you may have significant work to save the shell.
2. Is the plaster in good condition and holding water? If yes to #1 and #2, a cleaning will do. If no to #2, then you need to chip out and replaster the pool.
3. You have coping issues (see picture). It has a gap between the tile and the coping. The coping likely needs to be reset.
4. Next is plumbing, you certainly have one bad skimmer, don't know if you have two and the condition of it. You have no idea the condition of the plumbing to the pad. Looking at the pictures, you have flexible PVC. Not the greatest stuff, might be serviceable...just don't know until you get to it.
5. Deck. Hard to tell the condition of the entire deck, but you have cracking and shifting that would need to be repaired...without looking at the entire in detail, you may get away with just repairing sections...also depends on the result of repairing the coping issue.
6. Equipment. It has been covered, which is better than sitting out. You have a simple system with a pump and filter. Filter is likely fine, IF it was winterized properly...if not and water was left in it, may be an issue. Unclear the probability the pump is any good.

You have lots of discovery and evaluation to do on this pool. I don't want to scare you, I want you to be realistic about what it *might* take to get it up and running. It is also my experience that the visible problems are 10-20% of the non-visible problems. Visible problems tend to be cheaper to repair. Non-visible problems tend to be more expensive to repair. It is also my experience that the cost of repair can be correlated to the duration of the neglect.

uscmarty said:

Heater is about 2 years old, and yes, I've read a lot that seems to point to a bad SFS. Already have that part on order

Click to expand...

I've had to replace them in brand new heaters from that time period. Pentair admitted to me that they had a bad batch, even said to purchase two or three when doing a repair and take the "new" bad one(s) back.