Hi all - just getting back to this (stupid work got in the way all week!). I did however get my reagent refill kit from TFT so I'm good to go on that front. Tonight is the night for the overnight test!
I just checked using the drop test and my chlorine is at 5.5 and CYA is around 50 or so (I'm never sure on that test...). Will report back in the morning with chlorine level.

Just to complicate matters I noticed this white scaley stuff in the deep end. It's very brittle. Still holding on to hope my SWG isn't dead...

I don't think that matters. The bonding is beyond your new breaker box so you can just not use the wire.

Use liquid chlorine instead. Put enough in for 5 ppm per day.

smac22 said:

I've been troubleshooting a spa leak. Have it narrowed down to the main drains/suction line for the source of the leak. While troubleshooting, I pulled the drain covers off and noticed these 2 holes with no plugs. Should these bottom threaded holes be plugged? I am noticing that when my spa is fully drained, a few inches of water will find its way back in through these main drains. I'm assuming this is ground water and not sure if it's coming in through these bottom holes or if it's coming in through a line leak to the main drains. Any ideas or knowledge with these open threaded holes down there? I've attached a picture without the covers on. Thank you

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Not sure what the third hole is, but the two with the yellow circles appear to be the sumps with side ports to connect the two together as main drains are required to be split and then connect under the surface to the single suction pipe that goes to the pump. Here's an example of a Hayward (upside down):

1poolman1 said:

As to PlastAid vs. Pool Putty. Pool Putty is just a 2-part epoxy that adheres to the surface to whatever it is applied. With effort, or time, it can be removed.
PlastAid is a solvent based product that will etch into and chemically weld to the plastic on which it is used. It becomes a part of the surface as opposed to being stuck onto it.
There are some plastics that won't work, like the plastics that buckets are made of. Styrene, ABS, PVC, yes.

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Great. I'll try Plast-Aid on this part and also order the replacement part you identified. A couple good options.

MichiganBruce said:

Thanks for the additional information. If this waterfall fixture is designed to be installed upside down, as it was in this case, then the design would have considered water that is retained after winterization, and that shouldn't have been the cause of the damage. So still curious about that.

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As to PlastAid vs. Pool Putty. Pool Putty is just a 2-part epoxy that adheres to the surface to whatever it is applied. With effort, or time, it can be removed.
PlastAid is a solvent based product that will etch into and chemically weld to the plastic on which it is used. It becomes a part of the surface as opposed to being stuck onto it.
There are some plastics that won't work, like the plastics that buckets are made of. Styrene, ABS, PVC, yes.

Newdude said:

So. And i fully avow this. Pool equipment is designed and capable of being in the elements.

That said. I would never leave $1400 to $1800 worth of *anything* I could carry to freeze and/or sit in a snow drift. Electronics covered with a thin piece of plastic ? Pfffffft. I can't even.

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I know I know, I hear ya!

They are sepereratly wrapped, heavy Guage, but separate.

OK I'm moving along on my first

ajw22 said:

The bonding wire should not be in the same conduit with high voltage wires.

Low voltage and high voltage wires should not be mixed.

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ever pool project. I have purchased the pool, SWG, Pump

yournamehere said:

Hi,
Our gunite pool was installed during the fall of 2022. Previous years I've had a pool company open the pool and this year I took it upon myself. I noticed the following pattern after wetting the plaster. Is this anything to be concerned with? Note that there are no visible cracks or physical cracks that I can feel.

View attachment 642504

Thanks

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Here's a good explanation:

duxthaman said:

Sorry what does this mean? I can leave the housing and just get a new motor?

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Yes. If you want to keep using whatever time clock you have to time your filtration, a Century EVQ225 motor will work with that pump if the impeller was never changed.
If you want more control over speeds and run times, a Nidec Neptune NPTQ225 will work. It has its own control built in, so the time clock for the filter pump would not be used, only the Polaris timer would remain in use.

I'm still getting the low salt error and did an overnight test twice and there was zero change in my FC and checked and cleaned salt cell-there was no calcium, so the Omnilogic panel or cell must not be working. Here r my current tests:

F.C 5
pH 7.8
TA 80
CH 275
salt 3000
CYA 60 I'll have to remeasure this one again
Temp 75
CSI -0.13

I'm trying to get the pool tech out as the system is still under warranty. We seem to have so many problems with salty systems. I didn't want to get my salt up to 3k but in trying to figure this out on my own and the low salt readings I added more than I would've. I hope that amount is ok with the pool tech where they won't say I damaged the unit. I believe his electronic tester runs higher than my TF-100 test. I guess I'll have to be extra good about backwashing with that much salt. That's the max amount on the TFP app. On Hayward's site (not discussing any specific unit), says for salt "2700-3400 ppm (parts per million) with 3200 ppm being optimal.

I'm not getting a message about the salt system on my app, just emails.

I'm worried about FC going down too fast so now that I'm measuring FC of 60 maybe I could use pucks? If so, how many? I've been waiting to hear back from the pool company and won't see him for sure until next week at the earliest. thanks!

+1. Even when you have the pool volume theoritically nailed, it'll bounce. When 2 inches evaporates its down 950 gallons, when you add 2 inches more than dead on to buy more time next time, you gained 1900 gallons from low.

Do you have automation?

Sure, then adjust from there in 250 or 500 gallons after test. Once you are close, move on and forget about it...it doesn't have to be that precise.

Newdude said:

The plans are wall height so the PB is probably right and when we subtract 6 inches for water height (about 2500 gallons) its a hair over 20K.

Pas, how is it behaving when you add stuff ? Have you seen said discrepancy with everything or only bleach ? I trust salt / cya / ch / baking soda (etc) alot more because they don't go in weaker than claimed like bleach might.

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I’m spot on 3600 on salt. And I was going off the 22800 number.

As for the one time that tried muriatic acid the amount was supposed to lower pH .4 but only lowered it .2. But it’s back up to 8 last time I checked (but that test is an eye test so not really sure of exact number.

So you are saying put pool math back to 22800?

"Professional, licensed, and vetted therapists who you can trust."

They're "Vetted", so that means that they can also help animals.

So. And i fully avow this. Pool equipment is designed and capable of being in the elements.

That said. I would never leave $1400 to $1800 worth of *anything* I could carry to freeze and/or sit in a snow drift. Electronics covered with a thin piece of plastic ? Pfffffft. I can't even.

ajw22 said:

Seems the cell was not insane all along.

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It got online therapy.


Brought to you by the same people who do online psychics, horoscopes and astrology, so you know it's legitimate.

No. Nobody has experience at this who doesn't damage good parts.
If you're going to do it, then do it all. You'll likely need frame repair as well as cabinet. That means standing it up and rebuilding the bottom. It's a project, and you may have to remove the pumps, but requires only minimal carpentry skills.
I'll give you some pointers if you decide to get into it.

PoolStored said:

Was it left out over winter? Wonder if it could be freeze damage separation...

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I leave all my equipment out over the winter and never had a problem. Oklahoma winters aren’t too bad. I use a Cyclone blower so I’d be surprised if there was any water in it but it’s possible.

Good catch. Updated. Still without the shelf..

Alexr54 said:

Wow thanks guys!
I did not know its illegal.

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Afaik, that's a bit overstated. It's a violation of federal regs to replace any existing pump of 1 hp or more with one that doesn't meet efficiency standards effective July 2021. These requirements are pretty much impossible for a single speed pump to meet, so you can't buy them any more.

Existing pumps are always okay. In other words, you don't need to worry about the pool police fining you for running your current pump.

You'll love your new VSP. Fwiw, I come down on the side of getting one that integrates fully with your controls. The relay setups can be fine, but in the end they're generally more fiddly to set up and run.

PoolStored said:

I get 23K not including the shelf

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The plans are wall height so the PB is probably right and when we subtract 6 inches for water height (about 2500 gallons) its a hair over 20K.

Pas, how is it behaving when you add stuff ? Have you seen said discrepancy with everything or only bleach ? I trust salt / cya / ch / baking soda (etc) alot more because they don't go in weaker than claimed like bleach might.