They are sepereratly wrapped, heavy Guage, but separate.

OK I'm moving along on my first

ajw22 said:

The bonding wire should not be in the same conduit with high voltage wires.

Low voltage and high voltage wires should not be mixed.

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ever pool project. I have purchased the pool, SWG, Pump

yournamehere said:

Hi,
Our gunite pool was installed during the fall of 2022. Previous years I've had a pool company open the pool and this year I took it upon myself. I noticed the following pattern after wetting the plaster. Is this anything to be concerned with? Note that there are no visible cracks or physical cracks that I can feel.

View attachment 642504

Thanks

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Here's a good explanation:

duxthaman said:

Sorry what does this mean? I can leave the housing and just get a new motor?

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Yes. If you want to keep using whatever time clock you have to time your filtration, a Century EVQ225 motor will work with that pump if the impeller was never changed.
If you want more control over speeds and run times, a Nidec Neptune NPTQ225 will work. It has its own control built in, so the time clock for the filter pump would not be used, only the Polaris timer would remain in use.

I'm still getting the low salt error and did an overnight test twice and there was zero change in my FC and checked and cleaned salt cell-there was no calcium, so the Omnilogic panel or cell must not be working. Here r my current tests:

F.C 5
pH 7.8
TA 80
CH 275
salt 3000
CYA 60 I'll have to remeasure this one again
Temp 75
CSI -0.13

I'm trying to get the pool tech out as the system is still under warranty. We seem to have so many problems with salty systems. I didn't want to get my salt up to 3k but in trying to figure this out on my own and the low salt readings I added more than I would've. I hope that amount is ok with the pool tech where they won't say I damaged the unit. I believe his electronic tester runs higher than my TF-100 test. I guess I'll have to be extra good about backwashing with that much salt. That's the max amount on the TFP app. On Hayward's site (not discussing any specific unit), says for salt "2700-3400 ppm (parts per million) with 3200 ppm being optimal.

I'm not getting a message about the salt system on my app, just emails.

I'm worried about FC going down too fast so now that I'm measuring FC of 60 maybe I could use pucks? If so, how many? I've been waiting to hear back from the pool company and won't see him for sure until next week at the earliest. thanks!

+1. Even when you have the pool volume theoritically nailed, it'll bounce. When 2 inches evaporates its down 950 gallons, when you add 2 inches more than dead on to buy more time next time, you gained 1900 gallons from low.

Do you have automation?

Sure, then adjust from there in 250 or 500 gallons after test. Once you are close, move on and forget about it...it doesn't have to be that precise.

Newdude said:

The plans are wall height so the PB is probably right and when we subtract 6 inches for water height (about 2500 gallons) its a hair over 20K.

Pas, how is it behaving when you add stuff ? Have you seen said discrepancy with everything or only bleach ? I trust salt / cya / ch / baking soda (etc) alot more because they don't go in weaker than claimed like bleach might.

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I’m spot on 3600 on salt. And I was going off the 22800 number.

As for the one time that tried muriatic acid the amount was supposed to lower pH .4 but only lowered it .2. But it’s back up to 8 last time I checked (but that test is an eye test so not really sure of exact number.

So you are saying put pool math back to 22800?

"Professional, licensed, and vetted therapists who you can trust."

They're "Vetted", so that means that they can also help animals.

So. And i fully avow this. Pool equipment is designed and capable of being in the elements.

That said. I would never leave $1400 to $1800 worth of *anything* I could carry to freeze and/or sit in a snow drift. Electronics covered with a thin piece of plastic ? Pfffffft. I can't even.

ajw22 said:

Seems the cell was not insane all along.

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It got online therapy.


Brought to you by the same people who do online psychics, horoscopes and astrology, so you know it's legitimate.

No. Nobody has experience at this who doesn't damage good parts.
If you're going to do it, then do it all. You'll likely need frame repair as well as cabinet. That means standing it up and rebuilding the bottom. It's a project, and you may have to remove the pumps, but requires only minimal carpentry skills.
I'll give you some pointers if you decide to get into it.

PoolStored said:

Was it left out over winter? Wonder if it could be freeze damage separation...

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I leave all my equipment out over the winter and never had a problem. Oklahoma winters aren’t too bad. I use a Cyclone blower so I’d be surprised if there was any water in it but it’s possible.

Good catch. Updated. Still without the shelf..

Alexr54 said:

Wow thanks guys!
I did not know its illegal.

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Afaik, that's a bit overstated. It's a violation of federal regs to replace any existing pump of 1 hp or more with one that doesn't meet efficiency standards effective July 2021. These requirements are pretty much impossible for a single speed pump to meet, so you can't buy them any more.

Existing pumps are always okay. In other words, you don't need to worry about the pool police fining you for running your current pump.

You'll love your new VSP. Fwiw, I come down on the side of getting one that integrates fully with your controls. The relay setups can be fine, but in the end they're generally more fiddly to set up and run.

PoolStored said:

I get 23K not including the shelf

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The plans are wall height so the PB is probably right and when we subtract 6 inches for water height (about 2500 gallons) its a hair over 20K.

Pas, how is it behaving when you add stuff ? Have you seen said discrepancy with everything or only bleach ? I trust salt / cya / ch / baking soda (etc) alot more because they don't go in weaker than claimed like bleach might.

PoolStored said:

As I said, use 25K.

I get 23K not including the shelf. Start with the 25K I suggested and use chemicals to adjust volume from there.

	Length		Width
	Feet	Inches	Feet	Inches	Length	Width	Depth	Cubic Inches	Gallons
Top Volume	37​	0​	18​	0​	444​	216​	39​	3,740,256.00	16,191.58
4 corners		48​		48​			36​	-165888​	(718.13)
Slope Sides		168​		48​			56​	327936​	1,419.64
Ramp	14​	0​	10​		168​	120​	56​	564480​	2,443.64
Deep Sides	4​		4​		48​	48​	56​	129024​	558.55
Center Mass	10​		6​		120​	72​	56​	483840​	2,094.55
End Ramp	10​		4​		120​	48​	56​	239211.5​	1,035.55
Corners									-80​
									22,945.37

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Oh okay. So the PB wasn’t too far off. He probably didn’t take into account the shelf when providing me with the gallons for the pool. I thought maybe with the actually diagram we could figure out the exact amount. Thanks again

Newdude said:

Here's the deconstruction thread so you can see what's going on inside.

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Thanks Newdude, that was interesting. It looks like that cover is epoxied in so if I took it off I would never get it back on without it leaking worse. I’ll just leave it alone and keep it in reserve.

The floor suctions are unfiltered unless you have a pressure filter (you don't). Straight through the pump and back out of the jets. Generally speaking, if it fits through the grate it will come out of the jets. There are exceptions, of course, usually leaf stems or pine needles and such, but I wouldn't worry too much.

It just means it's illegal for a pool service or contractor to install it. You can still replace it yourself though. We do recommend a VS due to the electricity it will save over a single speed. As far as AC goes, it's not all legal now either. If a unit runs on R22 and it loses freon, that can't be replaced. If the compressor goes bad you can still run it with a new one only if the old R22 is recoverable and is reused in the new unit.

Many are very happy with the Calimar especially compared to the price of the Pentair and Hayward pumps.

Hey Datt and Welcome !!!!!

We don't trust the pool store tests and have even less faith in the advice. Click on the blue links to read further.

Read up and ask away : Pool Care Basics
Purchase : Test Kits Compared
Download : PoolMath
To clear the swamp : SLAM Process
Fillow going forward : FC/CYA Levels
Witness : How Clear is TFP Clear?

Success! Thanks for all your help!!

Yes. Watch your filter pressure, you may be cleaning a lot. Or vac to waste.

What Does the Flow/Temperature Switch do on the IntelliChlor?[edit]​

The flow switch also contains a thermistor that senses water temperature. The water temperature is used for the salinity calculation. If the thermistor is failing the salinity will be incorrect.

Flow switch has 4 wires on cells manufactured before September 2018:

• Red/black - flow switch
• Green/white - temperature sensor

Flow switch has 3 wires on cells manufactured after September 2018:

• Red - flow switch
• White - temperature sensor
• Black - common

The IntelliChlor uses the Harwil Q-12DST-C2 flow switch.[2] It has an integrated 10k thermistor.[3]

With no temperature input, the cell defaults to a temperature of 77 Fahrenheit. The sensors are prone to failure. When the sensor fails and it's obvious to the software that the sensor has failed, it defaults to a standard temperature of 77 f.

To electrically confirm the cell is generating you can use a clamp ammeter to measure the DC current at the red or black wire on the surge board. It should be about 6 to 8 amps DC.