New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

I get 23K not including the shelf
The plans are wall height so the PB is probably right and when we subtract 6 inches for water height (about 2500 gallons) its a hair over 20K.

Pas, how is it behaving when you add stuff ? Have you seen said discrepancy with everything or only bleach ? I trust salt / cya / ch / baking soda (etc) alot more because they don't go in weaker than claimed like bleach might.

New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

As I said, use 25K.

I get 23K not including the shelf. Start with the 25K I suggested and use chemicals to adjust volume from there.

LengthWidth
FeetInchesFeetInchesLengthWidthDepthCubic InchesGallons
Top Volume
37​
0​
18​
0​
444​
216​
39​
3,740,256.0016,191.58
4 corners
48​
48​
36​
-165888​
(718.13)
Slope Sides
168​
48​
56​
327936​
1,419.64
Ramp
14​
0​
10​
168​
120​
56​
564480​
2,443.64
Deep Sides
4​
4​
48​
48​
56​
129024​
558.55
Center Mass
10​
6​
120​
72​
56​
483840​
2,094.55
End Ramp
10​
4​
120​
48​
56​
239211.5​
1,035.55
Corners
-80​
22,945.37
Oh okay. So the PB wasn’t too far off. He probably didn’t take into account the shelf when providing me with the gallons for the pool. I thought maybe with the actually diagram we could figure out the exact amount. Thanks again

Spa Leak

I've been troubleshooting a spa leak. Have it narrowed down to the main drains/suction line for the source of the leak. While troubleshooting, I pulled the drain covers off and noticed these 2 holes with no plugs. Should these bottom threaded holes be plugged? I am noticing that when my spa is fully drained, a few inches of water will find its way back in through these main drains. I'm assuming this is ground water and not sure if it's coming in through these bottom holes or if it's coming in through a line leak to the main drains. Any ideas or knowledge with these open threaded holes down there? I've attached a picture without the covers on. Thank you

Attachments

  • 20250502_181819.jpg
    20250502_181819.jpg
    802.3 KB · Views: 5

20250502_181819.jpg

Upgrade Options?

It just means it's illegal for a pool service or contractor to install it. You can still replace it yourself though. We do recommend a VS due to the electricity it will save over a single speed. As far as AC goes, it's not all legal now either. If a unit runs on R22 and it loses freon, that can't be replaced. If the compressor goes bad you can still run it with a new one only if the old R22 is recoverable and is reused in the new unit.

Many are very happy with the Calimar especially compared to the price of the Pentair and Hayward pumps.
  • Like
Reactions: Alexr54

First time opening, chemicals looks fine water still green and cloudy

Hey Datt and Welcome !!!!!

We don't trust the pool store tests and have even less faith in the advice. Click on the blue links to read further.

Read up and ask away : Pool Care Basics
Purchase : Test Kits Compared
Download : PoolMath
To clear the swamp : SLAM Process
Fillow going forward : FC/CYA Levels
Witness : How Clear is TFP Clear?

Pentair IC60 creates chlorine when first turned on and then flashes "inspect cell"

What Does the Flow/Temperature Switch do on the IntelliChlor?[edit]​

The flow switch also contains a thermistor that senses water temperature. The water temperature is used for the salinity calculation. If the thermistor is failing the salinity will be incorrect.

Flow switch has 4 wires on cells manufactured before September 2018:

  • Red/black - flow switch
  • Green/white - temperature sensor
Flow switch has 3 wires on cells manufactured after September 2018:

  • Red - flow switch
  • White - temperature sensor
  • Black - common
The IntelliChlor uses the Harwil Q-12DST-C2 flow switch.[2] It has an integrated 10k thermistor.[3]

With no temperature input, the cell defaults to a temperature of 77 Fahrenheit. The sensors are prone to failure. When the sensor fails and it's obvious to the software that the sensor has failed, it defaults to a standard temperature of 77 f.

To electrically confirm the cell is generating you can use a clamp ammeter to measure the DC current at the red or black wire on the surge board. It should be about 6 to 8 amps DC.

1746227394893.png

1746227394893.png

New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

As I said, use 25K.

I get 23K not including the shelf. Start with the 25K I suggested and use chemicals to adjust volume from there.

LengthWidth
FeetInchesFeetInchesLengthWidthDepthCubic InchesGallons
Top Volume
37​
0​
18​
0​
444​
216​
39​
3,740,256.0016,191.58
4 corners
48​
48​
36​
-165888​
(718.13)
Slope Sides
168​
48​
56​
327936​
1,419.64
Ramp
14​
0​
10​
168​
120​
56​
564480​
2,443.64
Deep Sides
4​
4​
48​
48​
56​
129024​
558.55
Center Mass
10​
6​
120​
72​
56​
483840​
2,094.55
End Ramp
10​
4​
120​
48​
56​
239211.5​
1,035.55
Corners
-80​
22,945.37

Pentair IC60 creates chlorine when first turned on and then flashes "inspect cell"

Check the amperage.

Check the cell temperature.

What is the cell temperature?

Check the amperage (DC).

Check the water temperature as shown in the video.

Disconnect the temperature sensor.

When you say to disconnect the water temp sensor, are you talking about the one plumbed in after the pump/before the filter with a lead that goes to the Easy Touch panel?
Watch the video to see how to check cell temperature and how to disconnect the temperature sensor in the flow switch.

Cut the white wire.

IMG_5647.jpeg

New Plaster & Vacuuming

I know that we aren't supposed to use our robotic vacuum or any vacuum with wheels for the first 4 weeks our pool is open. However, even after brushing twice a day for a week, there's still a decent amount of sediment at the bottom. Is it possible to use one of those cheaper style vacuum heads with just brushes instead of the normal wheeled nozzle you have on an in-ground pool vac head? To me, the brushes seem no different than those on our pool brush. I don't want to ruin our plaster but I'm also pretty picky about dirt in the pool. Thanks in advance pool pros!

Filter size ??

John,

I have a Pentair CCP-520 and I installed two Waterway filters in a couple of rent house...

Both filters are about the same quality.. I'd go with the larger filter for the same price..

I like the location of the drain plug on the Waterway much better.

I like the belt assembly on the Waterway better..

Either will work just fine.

Here is a good place to check pricing...




Thanks,

Jim R.
  • Like
Reactions: 1poolman1

$30 Amazon Gift card for a legit Pool cleaning survey

Seems an easy way to earn $30. took about 20 minutes:

Pool Cleaner Study


- - - - - - - -

Great, you're all done. Thank you so much!​

We will send your Amazon Gift Card in the next few days. If you don't receive it by then, please get in touch so we can sort it out.

[email protected]

If you know anyone else who lives in the continental US and would be interested in participating in this study, please send them this link: Pool Cleaner Study
is this study still available

Upgrade Options?

Wow thanks guys!
I did not know its illegal.
I get the energy consumption. But i'm paying for it every month with my electricity bill. There are things that use much more energy (Like AC units) which are still perfectly legal.

My pool equipment is located at the side of my house and under a permanent attached canopy, with a roof/shingles. Its open except for the roof.
Noise is not a factor for me.
The loudest thing is the Spa blower anyway, and it's a brand new one.
I have a salt cell. Replace filters every 6 months at minimum. Have a robotic pool cleaner.

Maintenance is really a non factor.

Plan on adding a float switch in the pool skimmer with an auto top off in the coming weeks.
I like to have everything as automated as possible.

So would you guys suggest the expensive hayward pump or would you suggest the much cheaper Calimar?
Or any other suggestions?

Pentair Globrite functionality

There is a LONG back story which for now will only confuse readers so I’m limiting this post to the portion I need to be educated on today.

Our pool lights have worked properly for the past 7 years. Everything is now out of warranty, so over the past the past 2 years I have purchased and installed 3 Pentair Globrite lights (the worst product ever).

When I called our local Pentair certified service company to review the problem that all our lights stopped working at the same time, they said:
1) your service panel is not wired correctly
2) the system is not designed to accommodate that type of functionality you’re requesting.

I know that is a bunch of craaap. Again a long back story about that.

For now all I need to understand is what are the elements involved that allow the 3 Features to turn our Pentair Globrite lights off/on in 3 sections of our pool?

— Due the three boxes outside our service panel have anything to do with light functionality?

— IS there something inside the panel that controls how the lights function?

— OR is it only how the pool light wires are connected (inside the external box) to the wires that come from the service panel?

Thanks for your time,
York

Attachments

  • ScreneLogic.jpg
    ScreneLogic.jpg
    294.5 KB · Views: 7
  • Transformers.jpg
    Transformers.jpg
    144.3 KB · Views: 10
  • Panel Inside.jpg
    Panel Inside.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 9
  • Light Box.jpg
    Light Box.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 9

Light Box.jpg

Panel Inside.jpg

Transformers.jpg

ScreneLogic.jpg

Should I install a valve before this pump (picture)?

I'm out of ideas now, so it looks like I am just going to have to live with a non-fully primed pump and deal with air eventually getting into the filter requiring purging.

I am removing the skimmer/main-drain diverter from the bottom of the skimmer to alleviate at least a little head.

I'll also try removing the floating weir (I'll see if I actually need it), since it appears to be somewhat restrictive also.

I will probably return the flapper to the check valve that's located between the filter and the heater(s), since it will help avoid any inadvertent reverse flow that may accidentally send my DE from the filter either to the pool or to my vacuum-to-waste pipe.

I plan to change from full-time (24/7) pumping at 1700 RPM to a significantly less time per day. Hope that doesn't cause more problems.

I'm still open for suggestions, but it seems we have exhausted everything except an underground air leak. I suppose I could still rebuild all the PVC connections on the suction side of the pump even though the hose flooding method didn't detect anything there. Maybe I will try that sometime.

Anyway, thanks again for everyone's help to date.

image.jpg

Filter