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Stubborn algae afte SLAM

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pji said:
Its amazing what happens if you actually read and follow *all* the SLAM steps :)

Pool is looking fantastic, so thanks to all! Water quality is definitely clear and the pool in general looks fantastic now. I've ticked all 3 boxes so am considering the SLAM complete:

CC is 0.5 or lower - 0
your overnight chlorine loss test shows 1.0 ppm of loss or less - 0.
pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae (dead or alive) on floor and walls - yes

What are next steps now?
  • SWG has been off during the SLAM - At what FC ppm do I turn it back on? Currently at 14ppm FC. Down from 20ppm 24 hours before duringthe SLAM.
  • pH is at 8 - Up from 7.4 48 hours ago but maybe becuase spillover has been running 24/7 during the SLAM? I belive this aerates the water causing pH to rise?
  • TA is 80 - Should probably bring this down to 70?
  • CYA us 40 - kept it lower for the SLAM. Target is 70 according to PoolMath.
  • CH - MAy get it to 400 as was suggested before we get some rain soon.
Which, if any order should I get this back to where they should be or does it matter? Thinking CYA first once I get to "normal" FC levels, then turn SWG back on, then TA and pH? But as has been show I'm still a novice here so would appreciate any guidance. New SWG so will need to monitor FC for the next while as I figure out what output to set it to.
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- Use the FC/CYA chart to find the correct FC level. Stay at the high end or slightly above it to leave yourself some buffer. It's safe to swim anywhere above minimum and below SLAM level. Leave the SWG off until it is down to that level and then turn it on to maintain.
- ph isn't valid with FC above 10, test again when FC is at 10 or lower and adjust then.
- TA is fine and will come down on its own when you manage ph
- Increase CYA to 70 with dry CYA. Look up the sock method if you aren't familiar with it. Can star this now before your FC is back down.
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Draxus
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Draxus
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Draxus
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Water is still cloudy after multiple treatments

Mdragger88
Newdude said:
*assuming you get right on a kit being delivered. If its delayed for any reason, I'd use test strips to prove there was likely chlorine in the pool. The # isnt that important (yet) as said above and i'd try to stay on the darker side of the test strip.

Some folks think about it for a couple weeks or the kit has to clear customs and adding 5ppm a day may stack in a bad way.
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Hes in Minnesota so I suspect he will have his kit in a week or less 👍🏻
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Is it safe to turn off skimmers during vacation?

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
How do you fill water now?

When my parents were away from their home, I plumbed an automatic sprinkler valve to their fill line and connected it to a cheap wifi enabled irrigation controller. I used a Ring cam to monitor water level and was able to fill pool remotely from my home. Something to consider if you already have those devices.
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Used Pool Questions

Mdragger88
Ditto on everything phonedave said 🙌 You will also need a timer for the swcg & pump so you can ensure the swcg doesn’t run when the pump is off.
I use a simple torx 120v plug in timer and plug both swcg & pump into it.
There are other more expensive hardwired options available if you like.
Intermatic timers are popular.
You want the pump & swcg to be on the same circuit so that if the breaker or gfci trips they both shut off.

Here’s some helpful links 🔗 as you go about your journey:

How to level above ground pool - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Just Filled Your Pool with Water? Here's What To Do Next - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Sand Filter Use and Care - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Electrical Bonding - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Let us know more about your project - also we love pictures 📸 !
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Water is still cloudy after multiple treatments

Newdude
Mdragger88 said:
you’re simply adding 5ppm worth to the pool to account for daily losses while you wait
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*assuming you get right on a kit being delivered. If its delayed for any reason, I'd use test strips to prove there was likely chlorine in the pool. The # isnt that important (yet) as said above and i'd try to stay on the darker side of the test strip.

Some folks think about it for a couple weeks or the kit has to clear customs and adding 5ppm a day may stack in a bad way.
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Water Test 5-8-2025

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Maverick2022 said:
The pool store the phosphates should be below 100 ppb so algae doesn't have anything to help grow. My chlorine is high, so I don't see why I would have algae, water is clear too.
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That's the general though process here. If you keep your chlorine at the correct levels (which is higher than pool store recommendations) you won't have algae and don't need to worry about phosphates.
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Is it safe to turn off skimmers during vacation?

mknauss
Why are you going to turn off your make up water? You have a SWCG so setting the pool up to run each day, remain full, and generate chlorine should be you plan. It would be best to have someone stop by every few days and clean the skimmer baskets.

As to your question, no, it is not advisable to run the pump on only the main drain. Very likely you will lose prime.
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Sta-Rite System 3 S8M150 leaking

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PoolStored said:
There is no reason, other than priming, to run a VSP at full speed.

Run your pump for a reason. Many of us run at very low speed to save $$ in electrical cost.

See:
Pump Runtimes/Speeds-->Pump Basics - Further Reading

As for new cord ring, @1poolman1 and I *may* disagree. I have followed the manual to NOT lubricate the cord ring and have found very good service (no leaks).

View attachment 644251
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Thanks for the tip on not lubing. Will clean it off next time I clean the cartridges. That is likely what created the sand accumulation in the groove. Unfortunately, there was no literature when just buying the O-ring. Bought the house 3.5 years ago & this is my 4th season. What run program would you recommend for a 2.7HP VSP on 35,000+ gallon pool?
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Low Flow Gas Buildup...

Guy559
Wondering if others have experienced this...

SWCG and system working great overall, especially if I keep VSP at 45% and above.

However, when I sought to follow advice for lower rpms for 24 hours, I get gas buildup in PVC that actually diverts water flow. In this case, the gas seems to buildup in the return pipes, so that over time one of the bubblers on my tanning shelf stops flowing, along with the return to my spa. If I increase rpms toward 80% for a minute, that clears out the built-up gasses (it's very obvious due to gas in discharge from the returns). I could then lower back to 35% and it'll work fine...until gasses build back up.

Wondering if others have experienced this. If I keep VSP at 45% seems to be no issue. Flow rate is high enough to carry SWCG gasses all the way through...though I'd certainly prefer 35% for electrical cost savings.
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Hayward Aquarite SWG Board (v1.58) on/off? PLEASE HELP!!!

D
ajw22 said:
Same problem being discussed on this thread.

Try some contact cleaner on the connections.

Aquarite cell not generating

Correct. All about volts and amps.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Ok, cleaned a lightly sanded and still no change. I did notice that when it first fires up, I measured the display pins and I'm getting zero voltage on any of them, but when I pull the display and reseat the 5V comes up on several pins? What else could I trace to see what could be causing this? Logic Board? Any troubleshooting tips would be very helpful.
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Water is still cloudy after multiple treatments

Mdragger88
KBreuer15 said:
Don't I have to test first in order to know what that number is? I don't have the test kit yet.
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No, you’re simply adding 5ppm worth to the pool to account for daily losses while you wait. Not trying to maintain a specific fc level.
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Thats a dab under a gallon- it doesn’t have to be exact, a gallon a day of 10% strength will do!
Put that robot to work !
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Mdragger88
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