Welcome to TFP.

@kimkats is Queen of Bling and should be by shortly.

John85 said:

John85 said:

want to try to get back to doing things properly.

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I usually get it all running and dump several gallons of 12.5% Cl to get things going (and don't wait a full 24).

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Why? There is no rush. We don't dump and hope. We test and respond.
Best practice is to let the pump run 24/7, then test and respond. The 24 hours hurts nothing. No need to waste chlorine. Added when and if needed in the right amounts.

Welcome to TFP.

lg1099 said:

Thank you Very Much!
I will try your suggestion

Thank you for responding
This is a picture of old motor
View attachment 644173
Here are specification on New motor. I will take a picture of plate this evening
View attachment 644174

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Old motor was a 2.6 total horsepower motor. New motor is a 2.2 total horsepower motor based on all the pictures of the rating plate on E-bay of the motor with that number. It won't last long if the impeller isn't changed. The new motor is for a 1.5hp full-rated, 2hp up-rated pump, a WFE-6 was the full-rated version. You have a full-rated pump, a WFE-8.
The impeller on your pump is for a full-rated motor. It will overload the new motor.
The CMP 25305-129-000 impeller is a good alternative to OEM and costs about 1/3 less.

I

kimkats said:

If you give a mouse a cookie LOL

Why would then do that union there? Here is hoping it is easy to fix!

Kim

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I’m guessing that the pipe broke at some point and then they couldn’t get a coupler on it because of the concrete pad. So they used some kind of internal coupler which reduces the flow even more.

So I chipped it out and get to redo what I did last week. Oh yea. The bond wire that was leading into the pad just dead ended in the pad, no rebar. So I’ll probably drill a hole and cement it back in. Didn’t have any shocking issues so far so why test my luck?

Min is on 5. Low UV this time of year...and cold water.

I haven't lifted the cover yet. Yes my reagents are current. I usually get it all running and dump several gallons of 12.5% Cl to get things going (and don't wait a full 24).

At CYA 70 it is safe to swim up to 28 FC.

We can all imagine that. There's never been a perfectly invited wedding in the history of the planet.

PoolStored said:

AquaCal heat pumps may have a delay before the compressor starts, typically 3 to 4 minutes, after the unit is turned on or when calling for heating or cooling. This allows the fan to operate and ensures proper water flow before the compressor engages.

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Makes sense. Thanks.

My test results from tonight. I added 2 lbs. of cya to get that up to 70. TA has been coming down slowly each time I drop the pH to 7.2. We are getting 1.5 inches of rain again tomorrow so I’ll test again Saturday.

Any idea what my chlorine is high now? I lowered my SWG from 40% to 20% on Tuesday. And just lowered it to 10% now after this test. Is it safe to swim in that high?

TinFoilHat said:

Just leave one less-loved in-law off the invite list and you've paid for the kit.

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If you only knew!!

Check the bridge rectifiers for shorts.

Checking bridge rectifiers is being discussed in…

ok next step is to check the Bridge Rectifier on your board to make sure it's not shorted. You'll have to unscrew the board from the plastic bezel and flip it over to get to the rectifiers. Here's a link to that earlier thread with the photo...


BR1 is the rectifier for the 18vac input... if you look at the chip you'll see 4 pins, two on the top are labeled - and + (this is the 24 volt dc output) and the two on the bottom are ~ and ~ (this is the 18 volt ac input). set your meter to ohms and put the leads on all the pins and make sure you don't get any zero readings, flip the leads around and do it again, making sure you don't get any zero readings. there's also a video in the above thread on how to test a rectifier, and it's surely better that these instructions

Asked on 1/5/2017by Kr​

I have a Swim Clear 2030 filter. There is a tiny hole drilled into the bottom of the pvc assembly piping (part #cx3030h) within the lower filter body (that connects to pool outlet). Pool repair person says it's supposed to have this tiny hole. What does it do?
Reply

A Answered on 1/5/2017 by InyoPools Product Specialist Scott W.​

I do not know what hole you are referring to. Can you attach a picture of the hole so I can give you a better answer?

Just did my sundown test. FC is now 10.5
CC down to .5 from 1

Will test again in am and report

The best schematics we have for various modules Hayward uses are in Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

Ooh, I'd have to let my grandkids pick which one to use.....