Latest activity

Posts Threads Hot

Latest activity

 Media Forum list

Used Pool Questions

P
Read and understand how to prep the ground for a pool. This is extremely important. You are going to need a new liner for your new-to-you pool. Liners do not do well once they have been in water and then are removed from water (they no longer stretch, they rip).

Is this a round or an oval pool. If it is oval, look up the instructions on line and make sure you install it correctly using whatever buttresses, ties, or whatever method they use to keep it from blowing apart.

You will need electric - and electric (and bonding) that is properly installed to run your pool. How will you be doing that.
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88

IMG_0914.jpeg

G
IMG_0914.jpeg

Pool Pump Flow Low

D
thanks. so i feel like typically, if i ran my pump on speed 3 or 4 the heater would turn on. Prior to this commotion yesterday, i saw a similar issue where the heater didnt want to turn on due to low flow. I did suck up a bunch of dirt just opening the pool this past weekend. After rinsing the filters off, the heater did come on at speed 4 (never tried 3), but the flow felt lower than normal (maybe that was just in my head knowing i screwed up opening the pool with the returns capped). But i can put my hand under the vacuum and there is very little to now flow. The pump has a 3 value on it - for skimmer / drains in the pool. I do have some new filters on order and also need to get a new manifold o-ring. I'm hoping that its just bad (dirty) filters and that will resolve the issue.

I would imagine if something in the lines broke, i would have seen water levels decreasing. I haven't seen that. If the lines has a problem prior to the pump, i would suspect air in the pump. I haven't seen that.


EDIT: Update: the new filters seems to have made a world of difference. the pressure gauge is now around or just below 10 and things seem a-ok!. Thanks for all the help
Click to expand...

Should I install a valve before this pump (picture)?

HermanTX
TwinsPool said:
However, there was a larger drop on the pool side of the bucket -- about twice that seen on the inside of the bucket over 4 days (3 days with pump OFF, 1 day pump ON). I am starting new bucket tests, beginning with the pump ON. Will measure ON and OFF separately.
Click to expand...
Rain nullifies the test. Do it again and let us know.
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: TwinsPool

2 inch cut in pool liner.

S
How old is the liner?

If the liner is in otherwise good shape, a patch should be fine. Liners as they age get weaker and weaker. So if this cut was due to something specific, go for it. If a mysterious reason, and the liner is old, you may get more in other places starting to show up soon - then replace the liner. The life span of patches varies a lot, but I have gotten several years out of some. Enough to stretch things to the point where I really did need to replace the whole liner. But if the patch starts to leak sooner than expected, it is really hard to patch a patch - so then new liner time.
Click to expand...

First timer

S
Alright fam,

Getting my pool done this week or so, all new equipment, new plaster, SWG, and no pool knowledge! I just ordered the pro salt test kit, so I will be ready... but what do I do day 1, 15, 30?
I'm guessing my pool builder will want to start it up, and will give some advice, but i want to see what you guys say.
Do I let it balance out first, should I start with some chlorine to get it going?
Is there a good day 1 guide on here?
Click to expand...

IC-40 Dead???

G
I did pull the union apart and lubed the o-rings a month or two ago when I cleaned the SWG. I know it sounds weird but it seems like the leak is at the glue side of the union.
So bubbles are normal - is it normal to hear them at the SWG bouncing around in there?

On that note - I was informed on TFP to not use muriatic acid the clean the salt cells. How are you supposed to clean them? I don't want to mess up my new one once I get it!
Click to expand...

New liner, wrinkles and a leak

C
ajw22 said:
Draining the pool can make the liner problems worse.

Fill the pool up and see how the liner lays.

You can grab the liner with a toilet plunger and drag the wrinkle out.

The pool company can bring their vacuums in and suck the liner back against the walls as the pool fills. If they used vacuums during installation. The normal process is a blower to pull the liner tight to the frame, then straighten the wrinkles. Add water slowly with the blower running, tweaking the liner as needed.

How you deal with it depends on how the liner lays once it has water in it.

The pool company should be helping you get the wrinkles out.

I think you have been too patient and nice with the pool company.

Show us pictures of your situation.
Click to expand...
They were going to come next week but I have to be out of town and they want me here when they are here. Anyway, I have not completely removed the winter cover yet because there is hardly any water in the shallow end. And I obviously cannot run the pump and they think they will need to remove light to repair the leak and they prefer the water level to remain low for now. My water pressure is not great, I only get 300 gallons an hour out of my hose so it will take some time to fill the pool again.
So any pictures at this time would just be the winter cover. I will update on the 20th when they come.
Click to expand...

Aquarite cell not generating

D
ok. So I sanded and that didn't seem to help but I can do a little more. I did notice two other things. 1. When the system comes on and the display has to power the board is not getting hot. I let it run for 10 minutes and the current limiter was not hot. 2. It wants me to reseat the display when it is on, which I know isn't good practice. I tried turning it off, reseating, and back on but the display still wouldn't come on. After I got the display on and the lights were on for a couple of minutes the current limiter got hot. I still need to get some contact cleaner

Should the current limiter be hot if the display is not working or is that a sign that the board is not powering up? Thanks again.
Click to expand...

IC-40 Dead???

Lake Placid
Gnarbrah said:
Well dang.
Another question - when I stand by the SWG I hear “bubbles” going through the system and I think there is a tiny leak on the pool side of the SWG. Not even enough to make the ground wet below it but there’s usually a drip sitting there if I run my finger under it. On the bottom of the pipe where the union glues to it the pipe seems rough. Any chance this is an issue? Is hearing bubbles normal? There are still bubbles coming out of one of the returns when the SWG is on.
Click to expand...
Bubbles are normal and are a byproduct of chlorine production. You are still getting limited production so this is probably what you’re seeing. The drip may be an o-ring not quite sealed. You can pull the unions apart, lube the rings with Magic Lube II and reassemble to see if the drip stops. You might also try tightening that union a bit more. Only tighten by hand, you can risk cracking the unions using tools.
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude

Ascorbic acid treatment

G
After iron treatment pool was crystal clear. I’ve been adding my doses of metal out. Today I saw an iron stain in bottom of the pool. The question is do I have to do the full asorbic acid treatment can I add metal out and if so how much? The reason I was asking these questions is article about AA treatment said if you see small stains coming back out you should add some more equestrian agent?
Click to expand...

IC-40 Dead???

G
Well dang.
Another question - when I stand by the SWG I hear “bubbles” going through the system and I think there is a tiny leak on the pool side of the SWG. Not even enough to make the ground wet below it but there’s usually a drip sitting there if I run my finger under it. On the bottom of the pipe where the union glues to it the pipe seems rough. Any chance this is an issue? Is hearing bubbles normal? There are still bubbles coming out of one of the returns when the SWG is on.
Click to expand...

First Opening Salt Question

Newdude
Ok based on the situation you have little red flags (1.5cc) but not honking red flags (ammonia). So there is that.

I'd SLAM Process so you retain the upper hand in the battle. If the 1.5 CC more or less overnight is some sort of fluke, it was still a wise call.

There is a printable checklist in the slam article link (click the blue words above) to keep with you.

Lower the PH 0.4 at a time with muriatic acid per PoolMath. Mix for 30 mins, restest and repeat until Ph is 7.2. The last dose may or may not be a 0.4 correction, dose accordingly for that one.

Get 30 CYA granular hanging in a sock per poolmath. Visual link here. Treat the CYA as added as soon as its soaking. Your target FC will be 12.

slam away.
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: PoolStored

Installing 24ft rectangular Intex on concrete pad

mariane
Have you decided what type of "cushion" you'll use under the pool?
I've seen here on the forum that some Intex owners have used a type of solid foam board or thick vinyl pad underneath to protect the pool vinyl from wear and tear due to the flexing and rubbing on the ground surface when the pool is being used. Concrete would seem to be abrasive without something to protect the pool liner.
(I have a solid wall Doughboy so I don't have experience but have only read what others have done with their pools.)
Click to expand...

Mystery Leak

B
jr6 said:
Hello,

Issue with a leak in Vegas. Bought house with 15+ year old Pebble-tec, not super well cared for and needing repair soon. Shortly after moving in, slow leak started. Not very noticeable. Eventually adding water every day, and realized we were losing 6 inches a day by the second summer in the house. Time to take action. Used to have a "pool guy" who poorly maintained chemistry and also said the water loss was normal when it was crazy hot. Hence, I'm now a member here.

But back to the leak. Definitely a problem. Let it ride for several days to see where it stopped. Leak stopped about return line height. Drained pool. Had lines tested. "No leaks" anywhere. Some cracking in spa wall with visible rust from internal rebar. Likely culprit? Nothing else obvious and needed to resurface anyway. Chipped it all out and had spa wall rebuilt to 2025 standards (it was not sturdy). Lots of spots with water damage under the plaster. Some rebar had, in fact, rusted away quite a bit. Freshly surfaced pool filled today. Still leaking. Brutal.

Any thoughts on leak detection tips and tricks? We are talking about an inch every two hours from a 13000ish gallon pool. The real bummer now is I'm trying to keep chemistry balanced while constantly adding water to not ruin the cure while figuring this out with the contractor.
Click to expand...
Welcome! And sorry to hear it’s on these terms.

You can hire a leak detection service to come out and find it, they seem to be pretty competent and will swim the pool.

Before that, you can try to see where the water stops again and that usually points to the culprit. Any protrusions in the surface are suspects. Skimmers are especially prone, returns outlets, lights, drains, etc.

You can grab some leak detection dye from the hardware store (or food coloring) and fill a medicine dropper with some of it and squirt a few drops near any suspected item and if there’s a leak you can find the dye getting sucked into it. The trouble is that it’s hard to not disturb the water while doing this and that makes it harder to see. But is pretty cheap and can find obvious leaks.
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: jr6

Auto cover open or closed for faster heating?

C
I have gotten mixed answers on this question so i would like more feedback. We are in Indianapolis. Right now highs are in mid 70s lows in mid-hi 50s. Upon pool opening water temp is 63 degrees. We have a heat pump which is more efficient as ambient air is at 60 degrees or higher. Therefore we are running the heat pump in daytime hours only. My question: On a sunny day with temps between 70-80 degrees, heat pump running, should the auto cover remain closed or open? I can see the logic in both but wanted to know if there are facts to support which is more effective in raising water temp faster. (We obviously keep cover closed at night)
Click to expand...
Load more

Filter

Top Bottom
Back