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Main filter pump breaker tripped

CatalanBull
I had the exact same problem a couple of months ago: as soon as I would turn the pump on the breaker would trip. It turned out the ozone device was filled with water and shorted it. I disconnected and threw it away and everything is working fine now. Hopefully that's the same for you.

During testing I ordered the computer that sits on top of the pump on ebay and replaced it, the same problem still occurred so I knew it wasn't the pump. I was able to return the computer. You could try replacing that part before buying a whole new pump I'd think.
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Stubborn algae afte SLAM

Newdude
pji said:
If I keep my FC at 10, or slightly above as suggsted, how am I to check pH to make sure its ok?
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You'll get a feel for both the FC and Ph fluctuations over time and test when they are favorable for it.

By running hot it still dips below 10, just, we have tons of room to spare when it does. When the others dip lower than they wanted, they are flirting with Swampville.

Also try 4 drops instead of 5. I will use both sides of the block with one with 4 drops and one with 5 and use whichever one has the right shade for the test. Thats the important part, not the # of drops. If the test is impacted the colors won't line up.
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iCHLOR 30

M
Lake Placid said:
The left white knob is a control for a trichlor chlorinator. Turn it to 0. Better yet delete the tab feeder from your plumbing.

The black valve is for water flow control. Post more picture of all your plumbing.
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Will do. It will not be until later tonight when u get off from work. The company I had put my pool in did not really train or teach me anything so my left knob is at 5 right now right?
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Main filter pump breaker tripped

1
James L. said:
I very helpful gentleman at a large,reputable, long standing, pool builder company in my area (they built my first pool at different house, so they know what I have now since the present pool is a clone of the one they built) is recommending the Pentair Whisperflo vst 011533. Says it is a drop in replacement, and needs the cable, and is readily available , so I can get my pool running again asap.
However, are you saying "an Intelliflo, which is still available", is better? I don't know the difference between a Superflo motor and an Intelliflo motor.
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Look at pictures online and you will see the difference. With automation it may not make a difference at all in terms of use. I've never installed a VST to automation, only stand-alone.
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Auto cover open or closed for faster heating?

1
carrieanne said:
I have gotten mixed answers on this question so i would like more feedback. We are in Indianapolis. Right now highs are in mid 70s lows in mid-hi 50s. Upon pool opening water temp is 63 degrees. We have a heat pump which is more efficient as ambient air is at 60 degrees or higher. Therefore we are running the heat pump in daytime hours only. My question: On a sunny day with temps between 70-80 degrees, heat pump running, should the auto cover remain closed or open? I can see the logic in both but wanted to know if there are facts to support which is more effective in raising water temp faster. (We obviously keep cover closed at night)
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Heat loss will be less with the cover closed, obviously, especially if there is wind, which will suck the heat out faster than you can imagine.
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Main filter pump breaker tripped

J
I very helpful gentleman at a large,reputable, long standing, pool builder company in my area (they built my first pool at different house, so they know what I have now since the present pool is a clone of the one they built) is recommending the Pentair Whisperflo vst 011533. Says it is a drop in replacement, and needs the cable, and is readily available , so I can get my pool running again asap.
However, are you saying "an Intelliflo, which is still available", is better? I don't know the difference between a Superflo motor and an Intelliflo motor.
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Replacing Pump Motor, Need Specific Replacement Motor Model and P/N.

1
rcsupool said:
I have an Internatic clock.
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You can use the Century motor with a time clock. It will then use its internal programming to run and change speeds. There are choices you can make to that programming, but it is limited to what is already set in the pump. There is usually a choice that will fit your needs as there are several to choose from.
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arrested-development-david-cross.gif

Newdude
arrested-development-david-cross.gif

Hot Tub Automation

japoolspa
Normally the Spa Mode and Heat should stay on for the entire duration of your spa usage and you let the system return to pool mode afterwards, the waterfall (spillover aka spillway, spa bipass) circulates pool water through the spa again. Sounds like your system was in pool mode at the time the 30 minute spa egg timer ran out and system began pumping pool water back into the spa for the waterfall affect. If I'm in a spa with other people, I want to know the filter is running while I'm in that hot water.
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Main filter pump breaker tripped

1
James L. said:
Thanks.
Any feelings about the Pentair Whisperflo vst 011533?
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That pump is an Intelliflo with a VST (SuperFlo) motor. They are different (the motors) than an Intelliflo, which is still available and is a "drop in" in terms of size. If you don't have unions at your pump, there is still some re-plumbing that needs to be done.
Also, you will have to purchase the communication cable separately for the VST (about $45.00). It should be in the box with the Intelliflo.
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Stubborn algae afte SLAM

P
PoolStored said:
I run mine between top of the range for my CYA and a couple FC higher. For two reasons. If I get a high demand day (lots of sun/swimmers) I never get below range. I don't like fiddling with output %. I might change it once a week as UV changes. Since it is safe up to SLAM level, I just don't fret being a bit high.
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OK good to know. I'll keep that in mind as I figure out a suitable output for my SWG...
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Hi from Texas

Newdude
Maldravus said:
Well it seems bizarre to spend even more money on CYA when the 50lbs of pucks I have add CYA
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You're frustrated if you need to spend more money on CYA and you're frustrated if the other way takes time.

Only you can decide which way frustrates you less. :)
Maldravus said:
So is the suggestion to continue floating a single puck? Spend more money on CYA?
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Either works but both have a +/-. Let's see what CYA test says when you get it and go from there.
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Tested my two fill water options with Taylor K-2006-SALT - thoughts?

PoolStored
TDS doesn't matter.

TDS stands for total dissolved solids, the sum of everything dissolved in the water. The problem with TDS is that it is a total of everything, and only some things cause problems. For example, if all you have dissolved in the water is salt, you can have a TDS in the 3,000 range and still have a totally manageable pool, while if you have say 300 ppm of CYA in the water you can have a TDS of under 1000 and major problems.
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Stubborn algae afte SLAM

P
proavia said:
THIS RIGHT HERE!!!
TFP post of the day
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Haha! Glad my situation was of benefit :)

Honestly the hardest part was the "pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae (dead or alive)" part as its somewhat subjective. I *thought* the water was crystal clear when I stopped but now that I did it properly I can see the difference.
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Stubborn algae afte SLAM

PoolStored
pji said:
How high? Just curious.
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I run mine between top of the range for my CYA and a couple FC higher. For two reasons. If I get a high demand day (lots of sun/swimmers) I never get below range. I don't like fiddling with output %. I might change it once a week as UV changes. Since it is safe up to SLAM level, I just don't fret being a bit high.
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