iCHLOR 30

Enter “Diagnostic Mode” by pressing and hold the MORE button for 3 seconds, until light indicates you are in diagnostic mode.

While in “Diagnostic Mode”, you can advance to the next screen by pressing the MORE button. You will not be able to go back to the previous screen. You can only advance by pressing the MORE button.

The LESS button has different functions during diagnostic mode that are explained in the manual.

Note: Be sure you are not in Output Percentage mode (Output flashing). In this mode, pressing and holding the MORE button will only fast-forward the output setting.

Tell us what is displayed as you cycle through the diagnostics.

Sta-Rite System 3 S8M150 leaking

Is it a continuous leak or just on start-up. Those filters will sometimes leak on start-up and then stop. you should not be running the new pump at full RPM, though it will start on a higher RPM to prime. If continuous you need a new O ring. You replace them when they don't work. There is no typical time to replace. Just be glad you don't have to purchase it OEM now. For years that is all that was available and they were crazy expensive.
Why do you say to not run the pump a full RPM?

Sta-Rite System 3 S8M150 leaking

It was a continuous leak. I ended up sourcing an OEM one from my local pool store. It's very expensive at $81, but given such a critical role in the system & given it's not something I'll be buying all the time, I bit the bullet. What I found interesting & possibly helpful to others was only when I removed the old O-ring, did I notice a lot of sand in the groove below it. I was able to vacuum out some of the sand while I had to scrape out some that was a bit hard as well. That might have actually been the source of the leak, not allowing the ring to properly seat. I would have tried that prior to replacing had I realized it. I coated the new ring with magic lube & installed it. Although visually it looked like the same dimensions of the old one, it didn't compress nearly as much as with the old one. The knobs tightened down far on the old one. Going forward, I'll remove the O-ring and clean underneath it at least when closing the pool.

iCHLOR 30

So if the cell is depleted does that mean it will not make chlorine anymore?

Correct
How hard is it to replace the cell?

Unscrew two unions and one electrical connector.

And what will adding salt to the pool do still?

It may cause your salt level to be too high if you do not have a salt trst kit.

And I only run the pump 8 hours a day if that matters any
It doesn’t.

can someone help me figure out how to get my cleaner to access the whole pool without getting stuck?

originally, i had five hose sections on this and the line kept getting tangled every other day or so.

i added three floats and a sixth section of hose, but it still wouldn't reach the far shallow end.

added a seventh section of hose and another float, but it still keeps getting stuck in the deep end (and also the floats must not be spaced right, because it's still getting slightly tangled at times - you can see this in the pics).

can anyone suggest exactly what i need to do in order to make this thing reach both ends of the pool regularly and stop getting tangled? i think seven sections is the right length, but i obviously need help in where to put the floats and/or how many i need. i have four on there now, and can order more if i need to, but i'm stumped on how to move forward with this at the moment.

Login to view embedded media

Attachments

  • IMG_4607.jpeg
    IMG_4607.jpeg
    544.2 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_4608.jpeg
    IMG_4608.jpeg
    593.8 KB · Views: 8

DIY-PoolAutomation-Pizero-FrankenAuto

Update, everything is working so far. I still need to improve the interface so I’ll be working on that. I kind of got carried away with the 3d printer. But actuators work and the 2 relays at the bottom work. Everything else will be controlled by the low voltage relay. I still need to add the temp sensors, but I’ll hold off until my interface is looking better. Login to view embedded media Sorry for the bad video it was rushed.
Don’t dox me bro.

Attachments

  • IMG_0330.jpeg
    IMG_0330.jpeg
    318.3 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_0329.jpeg
    IMG_0329.jpeg
    384.7 KB · Views: 11

Introduction

Hi, I'm Kim and live Upstate NY. I'm married, and we have fur-babies. We bought a above ground Coleman 18'x48" pool few years back. Last year was the 1st year we had it up due to cost of permit and laws that had to be followed.......never knew something like this had codes and laws till then. How all that is done. Year 2 underway to kick off and have lots of questions because I've changed a few things with the pool and I have to learn all over again. I want to do it right so I'm here.

Mystery Leak

Hello,

Issue with a leak in Vegas. Bought house with 15+ year old Pebble-tec, not super well cared for and needing repair soon. Shortly after moving in, slow leak started. Not very noticeable. Eventually adding water every day, and realized we were losing 6 inches a day by the second summer in the house. Time to take action. Used to have a "pool guy" who poorly maintained chemistry and also said the water loss was normal when it was crazy hot. Hence, I'm now a member here.

But back to the leak. Definitely a problem. Let it ride for several days to see where it stopped. Leak stopped about return line height. Drained pool. Had lines tested. "No leaks" anywhere. Some cracking in spa wall with visible rust from internal rebar. Likely culprit? Nothing else obvious and needed to resurface anyway. Chipped it all out and had spa wall rebuilt to 2025 standards (it was not sturdy). Lots of spots with water damage under the plaster. Some rebar had, in fact, rusted away quite a bit. Freshly surfaced pool filled today. Still leaking. Brutal.

Any thoughts on leak detection tips and tricks? We are talking about an inch every two hours from a 13000ish gallon pool. The real bummer now is I'm trying to keep chemistry balanced while constantly adding water to not ruin the cure while figuring this out with the contractor.

Questions..... Pool legs sunk into ground.... Change to salter water sand filter system too

A few years back bought a Coleman above ground 18' round x 48" deep pool. Last year was 1st year open. Followed directions on set up, but never took it down for winter (cost for permit to put it up every year is $100+ inspection).....it had 18 legs, vinyl liner with rail running through premade sections on pool liner........had issues which is why I'm here now to properly reopen it. Will take pics and post soon of pool.

The pump that came with it did not circulate with (worse) or without cartage in it (very little improvement). So I opted to get a salt water sand filter system which I have no idea about any of it yet as I got it at end of close of season. Once I get out to were they system is I'll take pics. I know that will be easier to help.im not sure how much sand or what media is better (filter balls),how much media is needed, if I never pea gravel and how much, salt type needed or how much of it I need, or even too keep salter water side of it, ECT .....help please. I don't have the system even hookup yet due below issue too.

When set up 1st year all was ok......untill end. The legs sank into ground few inches at least....but pool bottom never moved.

Now, this is where your help will come in I'm opening soon.........pool is half full of water so legs can't be moved until I empty it out completely. I'm thinking about getting patio pavers or similar blocks......dig depth of block level to ground, put sand layer over that, then tarp over that......placing legs on blocks....... would this work?


All of it has to be done in one day. The drain, dig, blocks, reset legs, relevel, fill, setup pump, and start opening.

Should i put in a sump pump under my inground vinyl pool?

Liner pools can have well points installed around the pool to drain away ground water and keep the liner from floating.

Depending on the topography the well points can naturally drain to daylight or they can have submersible pumps dropped in them to pump water away.

is it better to put in vertical culverts and drop a sump into it or can i just run a 1.5" pvc with holes drilled in it (perhaps wrapped with drainage sleeve) from under the hopper to my equipment pad and then use a pump to suck the water out if needed?

My First Pool Kit….Builder Edition

We typically aren't advising for commercial setups. Is the CYA limited by regulations there ? If so, having to run below normal levels changes the equation.
Yep b/c it’s a public bathing facility CYA concentration is limited…up to 40 ppm is considered ideal by regs. At any rate because Orp is going to be in use, I’ll keep Cya to 30 ppm to prevent interference with the probes.

Pool Heater Suggestion in North Texas

I thought about installing a heater myself, but it just did not make a lot of sense for me... I would guess that 99% of people that have heaters, also have spas..
Do you just mean for people in Texas?

This is certainly not the case here in Canada. No point in spending $100k+ for a pool plus many more $$$ for pool related landscaping and then not swimming because the water is too cold.

Isn't gas cheap in Texas? Down in the Permian gas is often negative, at least on the wholesale markets.
  • Like
Reactions: Jimrahbe

What did you do to your pool today?

Well, I didn't get to the drip line today, another garden project went long (they always do). But I'm happy to report the pool got to 80° today, which is warm enough for me to get in after working in the yard. Man-o-man that felt good! Sure feels like swim season has begun (I don't always get to swim in May). Yaaaaaahoooooooo!

old-man.jpg

old-man.jpg

iCHLOR 30

3 years at 60% is about the life I expect from the iChlor30.

Your cell is likely depleted and needs replacement.

Pentair has new higher quality IntelliChlor LT cells replacing the iChlor.
So if the cell is depleted does that mean it will not make chlorine anymore? How hard is it to replace the cell? And what will adding salt to the pool do still? And I only run the pump 8 hours a day if that matters any

Filter