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Stubborn algae afte SLAM

P
Great thanks. Didn't know about pH reading onnly being reliable below FC of 10. Than again, never had to do a SLAM before so FC was never above 10. I see with a CYA of 40, FC target is 3-7 so will turn the SWG back on at 8/9 as suggsted. Once I get to 70 CYA, looks like FC target is 5-10. From above looks like closer to 10 is better?

Always used the sock method to add CYA (thanks to TFP), but that t-shirt method looks pretty cool! Will get it back to 70 and work on the pH/TA/CH as well.

Thanks all. Looking forward to using the pool for the first time this year. Its been hot enough here in South Florida for a while but the pool is actually ready now. This was definitly a good lesson to learn so as not to neglect my pool again...
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IntellifloXF VSF pump display is off during service mode

M
I have a feature pump (bubbler) where the display goes off in servce mode and I can't control it thru the app anymore (turn it on or off). I can turn on the bubbler pump at the
EasyTouch® 8 and 4 Pool and Spa Control System panel by pressing the bubbler feature button on the panel. When I do that, the bubbler pump display panel comes on in automation mode. Only way to turn it off is by depressing the bubbler feature button on the panel.
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Ascorbic acid treatment

G
Sorry to bother you again. The first time I did this, I got the pool crystal clear no cloud in this whatsoever. PH low, kept the chlorine levels on the low side for about 10 days. On about the 10th day, the pool became cloudy. Not super cloudy but just all if you know what I mean. It has never really recovered from that. My numbers are spot on. So my next question is whether I have to do this treatment again is there anything that I can do later to get rid of the cloudiness? I’ve heard some people say flock it. I’ve heard some people say just add clarifier. Sorry for the long post and thanks for helping.
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Replumbing and equipment placement advice requested

R
Well one thing led to another, I had a leak in my pool light, found out that the conduit was emt and totally rusted, and am in the process of replacing with 1 inch pvc, 40 feet of 10awg wire, and a spa electrics R10 retrofit since the niche is really old....at the same time, decided to replace concrete pavers which served as my equipment pad, but still trying to plan out the plumbing, everything is 1.5", with a main drain and a skimmer coming in and two returns in the pool, roughly 25k gallons. Today's question is just on planning the plumbing and equipment layout. I'm planning on replacing the two ball valves with one Pentair 3 way diverter valve (1.5" or 2") and then post diverter shifting everything to 2" . The new pad will be 3x6 and plan on having the concrete shifted 2 feet from pipe in ground, with the pump and filter in line and just straight pipe to the return with a future plan of a chlorinator. I have a proposed plumbing below, mock up is a bit rough, (doesn't line up, T should be diverter, etc.) but conveys the gist, it generally shifts the pipe away from the wall to fit on the new pad, and moves to 2"... can also use unistrut to support pipes..

does it work?
TIA


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PXL_20250509_132125895~2.jpgPXL_20250406_201220034.MP.jpg
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Is it safe to turn off skimmers during vacation?

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
It worked pretty good. I used an outdoor stick up cam that had pretty good resolution/zoom. I took photos of the waterline on the tile that I looked back on when monitoring levels. I set a 30 min. timer on the controller 'cause things happen and I get easily distracted. A Wifi enable hose end timer and garden hose would work too.
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Screenshot 2025-05-09 101908.png

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Screenshot 2025-05-09 101908.png

PXL_20250406_201220034.MP.jpg

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PXL_20250406_201220034.MP.jpg

PXL_20250509_132125895~2.jpg

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First time opening, leaftrapper

Draxus
ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.

Please post your pictures on the forum. Many folks will not click through to other sites.

Picture Posting and Resizing - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

@proavia may be able to explain your IFCS.
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Sorry about that, I updated the post. The size issue prompted me to use imgur; I hadn't seen that wiki.

I think I understand the system now. I still haven't been able to get the main drain plug out but I ordered what I guess is the correct removal tool from jandy. I attached what I think is the venturi nozzle to the black pipe in the picture, and tried running it with this plug still in. Everything works (floor jets pop up and shoot water in a sequence) but the pressure is higher than I remember it being last year (I bought this house at the end of last season)... I guess maybe that would be expected with that plug in?
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Are all pool temp sensors the same?

K
I have a Waterway pool automation system which I installed myself and has been running fine for years. Yesterday, the pool temp registered 90F when it was only 70F. I powered off the system, powered it back on and it is the same. I believe it has failed. The only Waterway named part I can find is $150!!!!! I am waiting for confirmation from Waterway on the correct part # and where to buy it, but I noticed that Pentair and Hayward water temp sensors that are identical in "looks" are $10-20. Are they interchangeable or is there a way to confirm?
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Stubborn algae afte SLAM

S
At your current CYA, turn on the SWCG when it gets to about 7-9. Then test daily to see whether it makes it climb or drop. CL is always most important to keep well up (or even a bit above) the range.

CYA - any time. It will take a day or two to register the increase in the test. Use the higher recommended range goal for CL right after initial adding.

pH, only trust if CL is below 10. Drop it to 7.4 if you want to drop TA faster. Will have to let it rise, then drop it again - maybe a few/several times, as the TA is slower to react to the acid adds. This can be a daily process until you reach goal. Or leave it, and only add enough acid to maintain 7.8 - 8.0. It will take longer for the TA to lower, but it slowly will.

CH - anytime.
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200w.gif

Newdude
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Main filter pump breaker tripped

PoolStored
The old whisperflo has a different set of dimensions from the new whisperflo. I don't know a drop in replacement.

With the easytouch, I'd recommend the intelliflo3. Either the 1.5 or 5 will save you money over the single speed.

Twer it I, I'd get the intelliflo3 VSP 3hp, and run it low speed for 24/7, it will save money over a single speed, and be much quieter.

Or as @1poolman1 indicated above, the Century EVQ225 motor and bolt it on. Make sure to get a Go-Kit.
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