Woodman56 said:

Most pool pumps run at 220

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Actually most pool pump motors, when operating at the higher voltage, have a broad range of voltages usually 208v-230v and are typically listed on the nameplate.

However, when there is only one voltage listed on the nameplate, NEMA allows tolerances of +- 10%.


Also, line voltage is not a specific value either:



SuperPump label shows 230v:

Welcome to TFP.

Hydrazoo is a very smooth, polished marble finish. It is hard and long lasting.

I have had Hydrzoo and it lasted 17 years before I replastered it due to some rusting rebar. My second finish is 8 years old and holding up well.

@Kaptain I opened it up and turned it on. The wheels and treads turn in both directions, as you said, and the impeller doesn't spin at all. Should that spin as part of the self test?

I'm very comfortable with repairs, and the internals on these are pretty simple. Do you have a link handy for the guy on Ebay?

Just got my water tested. This was the results.

If you have 120V at F2, the PCB and Fenwal are operating correctly. The 120V at F2 should power the blower. The PCB and Fenwal are waiting to see the AFS close, indicating the blower is operating.

The Wiki describes how to test the blower motor.

Check that all the wires to the blower are connected following the wiring diagram.

Also, check the integrity of all the wires in the 12-position receptacle as the blower power runs through it.

I had my blower not run because this red wire had come off its connection...

Thread 'So you are new to testing' also you can browse Water Testing Instructions - Further Reading

See if this helps....its fun to reading anyway.

Benny07 said:

The default one that came with it. It's like a cloth type of bag. Like this one below. View attachment 645327

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It looks like there are better bags available.

Check to see what the electrical code allows. But there are a number or waterproof options available, just a question of how much do you want to spend. My pump has a longer than it should be cable with a plug. The receptacle has a weather proof in-use cover. This would work too 320P6WLEV and 320C6WLEV.

If there is mildew on the travertine it can be hard to eradicate as it becomes embedded. You can try a product like Wet & Forget to saturate the travertine and then rinse it off gently either with a hose or your low pressure washer.

Will be interesting if swapping out the pump tube solves it... and if so wonder if it was really my injector check valve or just the tubes didn't provide enough pressure to start with based on age. Here is a pic of my used tube replaced with new in the IntelliPH.

My advice is to don't over think this. I am coming from a Dolphin M600 and the EVO appears to clean just as good as the M600. Its just a good solid robot at a good price compared to the dolphin models.

I vote for the largest cartridge filter you can get.

Maybe a few more pictures of you are looking to clear up. Overall I think it looks fine. The only thing I see is the color variation in the coping pavers is more than the field pavers. But that is a characteristic of natural stone. The color make have been more uniform when they were installed or maybe they have become more uniform over time. Other than cleaning with straight chlorine I don't have any suggestions other than accepting or replacing.

For anyone wondering, I ordered these guys to try out. should eliminate the need for a reducer to 1.5" if they work out well

Your existing concrete doesn't have any cracks which is good. But that is likely because you have ample expansion joints and the slabs are not overly large. I doubt you will be able to bridge an expansion joint and not have a tile crack at some point unless those tiles are free floating in a bed of sand or something. If you don't want to have a pattern that shows the expansion joints, setting in sand or an uncoupling membrane are your only viable options. Do so research into polymetric sand for what is going to work best in your design. At the same time a border of smaller tiles that can be adhered to keep the field tiles in place is probably going to be needed. The smaller tiles can spaced to hide the cold joints and expansion joints and not eventually crack.

You may do as you planned and only have to set some tiles in sand that bridge cold joints and expansion joints. But then you risk joints between the sand set and hard set tiles to take all the movement, as opposed to it being spread out to all the tiles.

if you adhere a boarder tile, leave some openings for water to drain. water will get under the tiles at the joints and it needs somewhere to go. Most paver over concrete slab recommend to put holes in the slab to drain this water. Depending on what material is under the concrete, that could cause localized heaving. Since your concrete is in good shape continue to drain water off the sides.

Hello! I just had a labral repair and capsular plication in December. It was absolutely the right decision for me. Last summer was a real bummer. I got hurt in May, so my ability to do regular pool maintenance was awful. We wound up hiring a valet service to do weekly cleanings. They were always impressed with our "perfect" chemistry, and listened when I told them not to put anything in the pool without asking. Basically, for the price of a robot, I had a summer of cleanings, plus some extra startup cleanings. It was a really nice luxury, and now I'm looking to buy a robot.

I'm about 1 month away from getting my weight restriction lifted, so my pool valet is back for now. I can do some things with a 10 lb. limit, but don't want to take chances. Good luck with the sling! The Week 4 trap pain on the non-surgical side was the pits for me.

Kaptain said:

From what I have learned they go through a self test when you power them on, if something fails it shuts down. Visually you will see the robot move forward, backwards, forward again, then shut down. This is usually caused by hair and Crud wrapped around that impeller. But like you said you checked that.
I had one robot that did this and found that the motor that spins the impeller was going bad. It just did not spin enough. I believe it was caused by a bad seal that took out the motor bearings.
There is or was a guy on eBay that was selling replacement bearings and seals. I bought two sets so I could fix mine but ended out swapping it for a good motor.

I fixed several of these last summer and if I remember correctly all of the similar models that Dolphin (Maytronics) made have the same guts. It's the power unit that makes them smart (bluetooth) or not.
If you are comfortable tearing it apart, I'd inspect that motor.

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He's still selling them on eBay. I am almost positive that's what you will need to fix this. If this repair is something you are not comfortable performing, I may be able to help.

Can I join the Trouble Free clear club? 6 feet, you can see the vac and two worms clearly.


**** Mod edit: username checks out.

* With upflow for the flow sensor.

Show the system.

Check the cell and look into the pipe before and after the cell for stains.

Pull the cartridges and show them before and after cleaning.

Post a full set of readings.

Sorry you got a dud. FWIW, we have oodles of people using them and most couldn't tell you how old it is without talking it out.

Let's see here..... I bult the pool, i think, in .........

mxxmikexx said:

I’m sure trying to open up the unit to troubleshoot will be a futile attempt at best

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You've also got nothing to lose.

OK crushed up some tablets and put in a sock and tried a spot treatment. It was like a miracle! The stain gone in seconds. Totally amazing. I will get some more and treat the whole area.