Rob Plummer said:

I never even thought about that. the total chlorine on the strip shows up as high but the free chlorine on the strip shows none. but like you said it could just be because of that.

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domct203 said:

I know that this has been covered here before, that's how I learned how to do it , but I wanted to share my through-wall skimmer install on my Intex 18' x 48" Ultra Frame AGP.

It was really as easy as it looks, if you are at all considering it, just do it. Take your time, double check everything. I'll admit it, I was very hesitant to take a razor blade to my pool liner!!

I used the Hayward SP1091LX skimmer as many here have had previous success with them.

I drained the pool to about 1" below the skimmer location. I know that some have installed without draining, but I didn't want to take any chances, and the lawn needed some water anyway.

I carefully split the butterfly gasket, then trimmed the leftover material from the split with a sharp razor. This needs to be done carefully.


View attachment 65942


Next I placed the inside flange in its location, leveled it as best I could, and duct taped it in place. I took my Philips screwdriver (and a deep breath) and did this to my new pool:


View attachment 65943


Be sure to support the liner with your fingers as you slowly push the screwdriver through the liner, turning it slowly as you push. I started with the top center hole, then the bottom center hole, then evenly around the outside putting a screw in each hole as I made them to keep the flange in place.


View attachment 65944


I removed all the screws, then placed the inside gasket against the flange, and passed a screw thru the top center hole to keep the gasket in place. I then screwed the flange/gasket to the liner, putting the screw about 3/4 of the way thru leaving the gasket loose to line up the holes. I went around the flange installing all the screws about a 1/4 of the way thru, being careful to pass thru all the holes in the gasket.

I then mounted the outside gasket over the screws sticking out, then carefully mounted the skimmer starting with the top center screw, then the bottom left & right screws, then the remaining screws evenly across. I went around the screws three or four times, tightening a little at a time evenly. When you finally tighten it down completely be careful you do not distort the flange and gasket. I tightened until I saw the gasket squish out very slightly then backed off until the squish went away. Sorry I didn't get any pics of these steps, I was a one man operation LOL!

Here it is, right after I cut out the liner. You can see in this picture that even though I was very careful to level off the flange, somehow while I punched though the liner I slightly canted the frame. The skimmer seems to work just fine however.

I cut the liner last, after all the plumbing to the skimmer was done.

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I hard plumbed the skimmer & original suction port using 1-1/2 PVC. I put ball valves for isolation and a union incase I should ever need to disassemble something. I plan to use the original port as a vacuum port now. I connected to the original Intex fitting using the 1-1/2 PVC electrical box adaptor as recommended here at TFP. I used the nut from an older plunger valve because I liked the fact that I could put it on after the cement dried. Also, if you are very careful you can use the gasket from the plunger valve as well, it's a close enough fit but a hair larger than the inside opening of the port. If you are persistent you can get it to stay in the port properly.

I used a Game A2656 40MM X 1-1/2 Short Adapter for the Intex hose hookup.

View attachment 65946


To keep water out of the original suction port (I was not draining that low) I used a 1-1/2" adapter and hose from an old Intex skimmer on the port & and lifted the other end of the hose out of the water. Worked great to keep the connections dry while the cement set. (LOL I just noticed the stick floating by, hence the skimmer install).

View attachment 65947


On the Return port side I installed the 1-1/2" Hayward return that came with the skimmer. I though it would be best to have a standard fitting. It has a 3/4" eyeball, but I am going to change it to 1" to lower the filter pressure a bit.

View attachment 65948



I then hard piped with 1-1/2" PVC and ball valve. I had to get creative with 45's as I ran out of 90's. I used the second 40MM adapter at the other end.

View attachment 65949


Here it is, all hooked up and refilling while I let the cement dry good!

View attachment 65950


Skimmer works great so far and no leaks!

I hope this helps someone interested in doing this. It was super easy, just take your time. Once the pool was drained it only took me about 3 hours, and that's with double and triple checking everything.

Next, solar heating !!

Dom

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PoolStored said:

OCLT Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

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RachelWL said:

Hello.

I found this page through google searches of my various problems. One problem I noticed addressed is when people are getting data from pool store testing and being mis-directed on how to balance their pool chemistry.

We purchased our home spring of 2018. It has an existing original pool from 1974. So it has two inlets and two returns that are not very well located. I was doing fairly well balancing the pool without much testing. Just by keeping a strict regiment of maintenance liquid chlorine and occasional small doses of algaecide and clarifier. Fast forward to July 2023, my son who swims in a speedo rash guard short, started to get a rash and blistering under his bathing suit. Soon after, the toddler cousins who frequent our pool also started getting painful rashes. I felt terrible that they were in pain due to something going on with my pool chemistry. 5 1/2 seasons with no issues and suddenly I have crying children beside my pool. This prompted me to take my water in to be tested. I was there told that my copper/metals were 3.1 ppm. That the metal was not allowing my ph level to rise, making the water acidic and harmful to some with sensitive skin. Since this time I have spent countless rounds of time and money to remove the copper level from the pool in order to be able to balance the chemicals. Thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours of time. We even tried on various occasions to do partial empty and refill. The lowest we were able to get our copper/metal count was 2.0 ppm. Due to frustration we have closed the pool early and opened it late for the last two seasons. Opening it late this year, due to an extremely warm month of March, meant that it was a black cesspool upon opening.

This year upon opening (4/23) we put in 8 gallons of chlorine, and I believe a 32 oz bottle of a 3.3% copper algaecide to treat the black algae. Over the course of two desperate weeks I put an additional 2 bottles of the algaecide as well as more than 15 # of HTH shock.

Thursday May 8th, I took water in to be tested as it had gone from black/green, to a cloudy pale teal. I was then told the copper was 2.0 ppm and given a series of actions - Metal out, sparkle up, change filter sand, kleen it, Ph up, shock, and Flocc. Over Mother's Day weekend I did all of these things. We did have a heavy rain on Sunday the 11th. On Monday May 12th, after flocc, I expected to wake up to a break through. I woke up to no change at all. I immediately took water in for testing and now my copper was at 2.6 ppm.

Thursday, May 8th - Copper 2.0ppm - pH6.9 - Total Alkalinity 33/42 - Calcium Hardness 46 - Optimizer 0 - Free Chlorine 0.2 - Total Chlorine 2.5 - CYA 29 - Phosphate 4,000+
Monday, May 12th - Copper 2.6 ppm - pH 7.0 - Total Alkalinity 33/43 - Calcium Hardness 58 - Optimizer 1 - Free Chlorine 0.1 - Total Chlorine 1.2 - CYA 35 - Phosphate 4,000+

As you can imagine, the mom & pop pool store employee who has been on this journey along with me, is just as baffled as to why the treatment plan she's giving me is not working. She has advised she will be sending a sample of my pool water off to their chem rep as well as asking the owner if they can offer me any discounts going forward as I have already spent/done so much.

Other info - We live about 500 ft from a large lake that is our town's water supply, as well as about 500 ft from a golf course. We have a French drain along the edge of our pool and water sheds away from pool well, so no run off. No neighbors who use fertilizers or other pools or ponds nearby, except for marsh areas along lake. No metal ladders or other accessories in pool water, no heater, no copper ionizer, pvc/vinyl pipes, no leaks in liner, gets covered with a mesh cover in winter. *I have spoken with a city director for park and rec that manages the golf courses, pool, and other various recreational facilities in my area. He is putting out some inquiries as to anyone who may have any input on my sudden copper issue with the timeline given.

I am eager to get back to basics with my pool. I am incredibly un-interested in chemistry. I do have a Taylor test kit, I'll have to dig it out to see which one, (edited to add it's a Taylor K2005) and I am incredibly intimidated by it. I do know that in order to go forward I will need to become familiar and comfortable with doing my own testing. I do homeschool my teens and I am hoping to incorporate the lesson for us together in hopes that one of them has a better knack for it than myself. It's amazing how I am going into my 8th season as a diy pool owner and I am still needing to learn and re-learn so much. I have said that with my inattentive ADHD, I am remaking a lot of mistakes year after year, unable to remember what did not work in previous years and spinning my wheels. That being said, we have agreed to not close our pool any more. If we can get this all sorted this year, we will stick with it remaining open through our mild winters.

If you're still reading, I greatly appreciate your time! I would also like to add that our 50 year old pool came with our 50 year old house. We are on a fixed income as my Husband is a medically retired combat veteran. He is nearly housebound, and we have sunk every spare penny into upgrades to enjoy our backyard. It is his sanctuary as he does not do well leaving home. I would very much like to end this nightmare and begin providing him a peaceful space once again.

Thank you all for reading.
Rachel

P.S.
I did put data in my signature as I had noted was valuable to others. If there's more data I should add, please advise. Thank you.

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Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!

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GaryParr said:

It seems I can get a 16k grain water softener cheaper than the smallest Metal Trap, so... is that the way to go? It seems like it, but I'm concerned I'm missing something that would change the equation.

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diat150 said:

Sorry I am referring to the coping

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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

I've heard mixed comments about thread compatibility. Contact their support line and ask, they are usually pretty quick to respond. Otherwise, when you receive the unit see if it fits, if not cut out the old couplers and replace with the new.

This unit also comes with a flow switch and fitting. You may be able to remove the flow switch out of the fitting and replace your existing flow switch. That would make things a bit more easy.

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Bperry said:

The acronym is OLCT.

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Ccorbin28 said:

several reviews of the CP RJ-60+ talked about switching from Jandy 1400 and how the size was the same but the threads were different

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Bperry said:

And I’m now guess this is the valve that is coming right off the pool so if it’s removed, all the water drains out? If so, you may be able to plug the line from inside the pool and do it, or do it later if it’s not a pressing issue.

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wobuzhudao said:

. What is your opinion about using an algaecide like mineral unit?

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The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

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