I would install a 240vac outlet with a water proof cover. Make a pigtail to the pump.

Mdragger88 said:

Generally unibead & j hook liners are available in more thicker options & more patterns than over lap although it’s totally possible to get a thicker overlap liner there just may not be as much selection.

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Just to expand on what @Mdragger88 said above.

Overlap liners tend to not have any sort of waterline pattern, kind of like fake waterline tiles. With a Unibead or J Hook the waterline pattern is pretty much guaranteed to be level (as long as the top of your wall is level). An overlap has a lot more play in it. Waterline patterns in overlaps are next to impossible to get level, and end up looking horrible when filled with level water. That is why you usually only find overall random pattens on overlap liners.

I would back it out, clean the threads on the filter and plug, see if they're damaged.

Do you know if there was a rubber gasket there?

If you want some help, I think you'll have to post a couple more photos from the front and other side. Tough to see what's going on. Keep in mind, you can mount the unit vertically on the existing lines.

Newdude said:

With a good scrubbing it'll sparkle so long as the fill water is clean. It'd sure be something if the town chose now to flush their hydrants like mine did the other day.


View attachment 645337

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Oh jeez! That is awful! I'm waiting for the update later today. I mean, it doesn't, have to be swimmable, so it's possible. I don't have a spa, so I really don't know how this will go. A lot depends on the venue's motivation, although, it's been warm enough to be using this.

If you're not keen on spending money on a new pump immediately see if the starting capacitor needs replacing. They're under $5.

Please get familiar on how to discharge and replace them before grabbing wires.

Lime softening traditionally uses “lime water” (CaOH₂ … not the little green citrus fruit) to cause calcium and magnesium precipitation. One also adds a necessary amount of sodium carbonate to provide the carbonate ions to cause precipitation of calcite. The only issue is that the pH can rise quite a bit where it would need to be corrected with acid additions. The result is that the water decreases in CH but typically becomes more saline from the sodium chloride formed. This would also be problematic in a plaster pool as there is no way to control precipitation and the calcite formation could nucleate on the pool walls causing very bad scaling. It may really only be. A viable option for vinyl or fiberglass pools.

A man's gotta know his limitations.

WHEW!

Can anyone answer this for me, please?

OK I am within microns on pulling the trigger on either the Evo 614 (at about 8 bills) or the Dolphin Premier (around 13 bills-factory refurbished), but I have a few still lingering questions that although I have tried to read through as much of this whole thread I haven't seen an answer.

First the Premier touts that it has "4 filter options — "NanoFilters", Oversized Leaf Bag, Standard Filters, and Disposable Debris Bags" all of which are appealing to me in particular the "NanoFilters" and the oversized leaf bag, which one reviewer said, the Premier is able to filter out "bushels" of leaves. I live in a dusty, pollen prone area and my pool often has pine needles and copious amounts of leaves when certain winds blow through here. I also have a property with several large afghan pines which send out tons of pollen. A nano or ultra fine particle filtration is one of my requirements. Now I know from reading here that the Evo offers an extra fine filter. I wonder if that is enough or do I need the "NanoFilter", (NF). Is NF merely a marketing term that Dolphin is using? Does anyone know the micron rating of the NF, Does anyone know the micron rating of the Evo 614 using the extra fine filter, will an even finer filter be offered at a later date, etc. ?

Second, the Premier, is said to have dual commercial grade motors. Can someone comment here on the grade or quality of the Evo motor, please? Reading its spec's the Evo has one motor. Is this a big deal? a deal breaker? How much better or worse are two motors?

They also brag about Premier's advanced navigation and ability to clean above the water-line. Not so sure as to how important the above the water line is to me but just wondering how Evo compares.

In short, is the price difference of the Evo, worth what you don't get or seemingly don't get from the Premier?

Thanks!!!

Rob

I doubt they are brass. I don't think there is a pool fitting maker that would use brass. Bronze is more likely.

Salt with brass can cause de-zincification. However, every form of chlorination ends up adding salt. My pool was 2000ppm when I installed my SWG. Any pool chlorine or salt is a salt pool.

More likely they are bronze. Bronze and salt is not an issue.

I would not worry about it.

TeanyV said:

Any bets?

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With a good scrubbing it'll sparkle so long as the fill water is clean. It'd sure be something if the town chose now to flush their hydrants like mine did the other day.

Here are my findings and what I think needs to be replaced.....

Whenever I'm faced with an ECU that doesn't seem to functioning or respondingn to scantool I first check powers and grounds, so that's where I started with the PCB (heater ON).

Note - wiring diagram indicates 24v as transformer output, my measurements with good quality multi/voltmeter show 27v which I think is ok. I've not found many transformers that are spot-on.

PCB Powers and Grounds
Transformer has 27v on one leg, continuity to ground on the other, per the ladder diagram.
PCB has continuity to ground from terminals J1-4 and J7-1.
PCB has 27v on terminals J1-5, J7-2,3,4
Spa ON = LED display lights up, Spa ON green led lights up, red leds on the back run through self-check, after check, green light on back of PCB stays on, no red leds on.
My conclusion here is that the PCB has power and grounds intact.

AFS Check
AFS contacts are normally open until airflow, this was confirmed.
2 tubes to AFS. Info said to gently blow into the tube(s), but I found that suction on either tubes would immediately close the AFS contacts with a solid click.
My conclusion here is that the AFS is operating normally.

Fenwal Module
Spa OFF = F1 has 120v, L1/L2 has 120v, F2 0v, which is expected, since it's the load side of unenergized relay.
Spa ON = F1 has 120v, F2 120v, which indicates that the relay is functioning (I can't hear a click though, but it appears to be working properly).
Shows ground continuity
Spa ON = No red diagnostic lights
Spa ON = IND terminal only has .6v, which is essentially no voltage, confirmed that only .6v from the PCB
My conclusion is that the Fernwal is ok but is not receiving 24v to operate properly

Firemans Switch
This was checked with Spa ON
L1/F2 strip has 120v
The Firemans Switch double strip has 27v and the fuse is intact
Trans/L2 strip has 120v
My conclusion is that the Firemans switch stuff is ok

PCB
Spa ON = PCB powers on, runs through red led self-check, appears operational
All powers and ground are intact, it is receiving 27v transformer power
J2-1/2 (AFS) = .6v both terminals
J2-3/4 (HLS) = .6v both terminals
J2-5/6 (extra switch) = .6v both terminals
J2-7 (AFS) = 0v
J2-8 (AFS) = .6v
J3-1/2 (AGS) = 0v
J3-3/4 (SFS) = 0v
J3- 5/6 (gas valve) = 0v
Also, when jumpering J6-5 and J6-6, nothing happens.
My conclusion is that the PCB has failed and isn't providing 24v to the various sensors, in particular the Fenwal and AFS which seem to be needed initially to get everything else going.


Comments on all this are appreciated, thanks.

Thanks to all for the comments/suggestions. As you said Pool Stored, the strip test was inaccurate, and I do not normally acid bath the SWG. In 2 years, I think that may have been the 2nd time I did that, but it's a matter of a last-ditch effort to clean the cell.

Turns out, the pool actually had about 2900ppm salt level. No mystery there as to why it was throwing LO SALT lights. I recycled the SWG as you suggested Hal3 - it seemed to also do the trick of resetting the digital readout. Again, thanks to all for the help!

Being in over you head or not is something you need to figure out. We don't know your skills and abilities, or what your schedule and how much time you have. If you have time and patients, go for it and when you run in to road block come back here to ask for direction. But before that, have a plan and try to figure out all the steps and what you can do and what you can't.

Most of it is manual labor. But there are other technical aspects (understanding the requirements of bonding). Backfilling so you have follow up issues. Most equipment is straight forward to install if you follow the manuals. I would also leave pouring concrete to someone else. Whoever does the liner should be able to deal with the floor (you can do sand, concrete, poolkrete, etc). To some it's not difficult to others impossible. A lot is experience. My pool has a sand bottom. When I got a new liner they started smoothing the sand in the shallow end and worked to the deep end and got out using a ladder and touched up the ladder marks with a paint roller on a pole. Not sure I would have figured that out, and I am pretty sure I would have worked the opposite direction and taken days not hours.

I purchased an IC40 and a Pentair Power Center from Marina Pool & Spa and they arrived yesterday. I have mounted the power center on the wall beside the Easytouch panel and have removed the SGS / Breeze controller and salt cell (right now I have a winterizing cap installed so the pump can continue running). I can reuse the wiring that was feeding the SGS controller so that's good. It's run but just not terminated on either side yet.

For the salt cell, I will need to cut into the line coming out of the heater. The manual says 12 - 18" of straight line flow before the IC40. I will then exit the IC40 into a 90 to start turning back to the pool supply line. How much straight should I leave between the IC40 and the first 90 ?

Goal is to have this all done by this weekend. I did think that the Breeze salt cell called for salt levels above 4000 while the Pentair has a lower range, so I guess I will need to drain a fair amount of water to bring that level down...

Thanks ! What about mortaring in the first row of pavers (next to the granite coping) so we have something solid to install anchors. And, also mortaring in the last row that abuts the lawn (so we don’t need an edge guard and the sand bed won’t migrate). In between, we could use the sand bed and match the heights and use polymeric sand instead of grout. Is that a good approach?

Don't add chemicals to the skimmer. Pour them slowly in front of a running pool return and brush a bit to mix. Granulated CYA should be hung in front of said return in your sock.