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itguy915 · May 12, 2025

sande005 said:
As for "shock" - you noted gallons. But to be explicit, only use Pool liquid chlorine! In the Lakeville area, you have a couple of Menard's within easy distance. Buy their pool liquid chlorine, cheap, strong, and judging by my Maplewood store, very fresh.

Get 3-4 cases from them. Between them and Wal-Mart, you can get all the chemicals you need. One of our major goals is to make it cheap, easy, and to prevent massive amounts of money from flowing in to pool stores for magic potions you never need nor should be putting in the pool.

What specific products have you put in so far? Anything besides pure liquid chlorine?

Just liquid Chlorine Klean Shock as it was algae. This morning has a much lighter yellowish green and some algae finally floating to the top, so think it's working slowly but working.

Richie-Czech · May 12, 2025

Newdude said:
I missed the 110v part. Apologies.

Inground pumps need to be self priming but won't hurt/matter for you if you find a good one.

'Inground filters' are no different besides typically being bigger. (And many are also better quality, albeit at a cost).

Just to follow this up, I ended up going with a Waterway PD-140. I'm hard-wiring and hard-plumbing it with 2" in at the moment, so should work out nicely.

Now I just need to settle my problem with sand. Upon TFP recommendations I bought Mystic White II, .49/20.
It seems that the laterals in the Dohney's sand filter are a tad too large and some will def get through, unless this is normal?
From my understanding normal operation pushes water through top of the sand and through the sand bed into the laterals, so they would def get in there no?

Richie-Czech · May 12, 2025

Richie-Czech · May 12, 2025

Richie-Czech · May 12, 2025

SteveK52 · May 12, 2025

Just returned from a week away to find my pool pump not running. The 20 amp 220v GFI breaker was tripped and I don't know if it was tripped due to a ground fault or overload. Resetting the breaker solved the issue. I believe this happened in the last day or so as while I was away, I occasionally monitored with Screen Logic on my laptop, not only seeing that the schedule was running but also looking at the information on the wattage the pump was drawing to be sure the pump was actually running. I'm trying to troubleshoot what happened but don't see any information within Screen Logic to tell me when or why. If this had happened on day 1 I would probably be coming home to a green pool. Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot this?
Thanks,
Steve

Kaptain · May 12, 2025

Last night 5/11 and this morning 5/12 were FC 4, TC 5.

run53 · May 12, 2025

I would not pay the extra for automation, but the CORE55 (no automation) is on sale for $500 off at DSP. So It would be $100 less than the RJ-60+ Also, seems like a bit easier to install. as the pad, flow control and cell are all in one unit. But I would be giving up the 2.7 lb/day of the 60+ versus 2.0 lb/day of the Core55. Any other pros/cons between those 2 units?

xsjmjx · May 12, 2025

ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.

You have to dig more out to expose the pipe.

Is that pipe white Schedule 40 PVC?

You want glued new pipe to make a permanent fix. A plug or some barbed pipe with hose clamps has a good chance of failing in the future.

The way to fix a break like that where you cannot move the pipes for couplers is to cut out a length of pipe and use four 90s to fit in the space. You need to dig out more around the pipe to have a hole to work in.

Leak Repair Question

I had a leaking pipe under a concrete deck. Guys cut out a square and made this repair to a pipe when runs to the built in spa. Is this appropriate/adequate? There really is no room without pulling out a lot more deck. Thanks!

www.troublefreepool.com

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks for the reply - it is actually the black pipe - I assume a black poly. Agree I need to dig it out more, just trying to control water now. Coupling is def the best long term fix. I believe with black poly it needs to be a barb coupling though, correct (vice pvc coupler and glue). Thanks again

Dave00 · May 12, 2025

dosmom said:
Thanks. So it looks like it is an issue with the board then and not the display?

Correct as my display works fine on the newer aftermarket board.

Turbo1Ton · May 12, 2025

The pump may seem like it is pumping ok if you aren't trying to push through the check valve. With the additional backpressure of the check valve, it could cause a reduced flow.

--Jeff

Turbo1Ton · May 12, 2025

tomas21 said:
Pumps 80-100-%. Pump is original (~2yrs) and pumps like it did from day 1.

If you have not yet changed the pump tube, 2 years is definitely time. The pump tube will become hardened and less flexible and remains flattened out so that it essentially does not pump any longer.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0KM47M?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

These are the tubes I purchase and use. Cheaper than the Pentair part number.

--Jeff

sande005 · May 12, 2025

Hmmm - some main drains in older pools connected up inside the skimmer. I have no real knowledge of that, or how it actually works. Others will have to chime in to share about that. May be possible there is a big air leak in that area - but I am only wildly guessing.

Odd that you have four returns branching off of one exit from the equipment, with no way to control/isolate them from each other.

JRzMom · May 12, 2025

I test almost daily for FC, but I find the R-0870 powder doesn't keep well. I'm thinking of buying a 16 oz. size and refilling the kit as needed. Is that worth it, or will it go bad? I try to be careful with moisture, but I guess I'm not careful enough. Also, how do you keep the scoop clean? It gets all gunked up. Do you wash it and dry it well before putting it back in the kit? Any suggestions for keeping the moisture out? I've read a few posts about using one of those silicone pouches taped to the lid, doing the test indoors (away from humidity), etc. What works, and most importantly, should I buy the 16 oz. size?

lacg · May 12, 2025

Hi, thank you for replying!
It is a Hayward SW15801X15TLFP (Serial number 2112-0812-005206001, apparently 0812 means built in December 2008), so a 1.5HP SW1580 single speed an older version similar to this one from Amazon, connecting to an AGP and using a SwimPro Voyager 175 sqft filter (can't find just the filter, but this one has the filter with a pump also from Amazon).
Have a great week!

sande005 · May 12, 2025

167? That is a very precise number for a test where the gold standard (the Taylor drop tests) only read in increments of 10 (25 if using the high range method).

Sounds like you think the Pool Store is your go-to test place. That can be, and is frequently, very, very wrong.

ethany · May 12, 2025

sande005 said:
Take the union apart just before the skimmer line goes into the pump. With it open, run hose water into it. You should get a good flow out of the other end. You may want to try it in reverse, since it you'd be pushing water through an open pipe, uphill, and instead go from the open pump end of the pipe to the skimmer end. If good here, likely your pipes are fine. Put it back together.

Undo the union on the vertical pipe that comes out of the pump. Run the pump and see if it will prime and pump normally. Yes, you will get a geyser with lots of water all over everything. But you should get a really strong flow out of the pipe, and the pump basket have no or little air after it primes. If not the same or stronger as you are used to seeing from your waste pipe in years past, then likely it is time to take the pump apart, and look for debris in the impellor. They can be pretty narrow, with narrow slots in them that debris plugs up and blocks. Report back if so, and we can help with a "how to". We will need the specific make/model - which is probably on the barcode sticker on the side toward the filter.

If flow is strong, put the pipe back together, and put the Filter handle to waste. Same test - looking for reduce flow from the waste. If so, take the multiport (the six screws) apart. It may be a bit of effort to pull/twist the whole top off using the handle. NO TOOLS! Check again for debris. Put pool lube on the inside spider gasket, and the o-ring around the perimeter of the top, and reassemble.

If the above strong, redo the test again, this time with one of the unions near where it goes back into the ground open. Test with the Multihandle to "Recirc", and see how it comes out of the open pipe. Then stop it, put the handle in the "Filter" position and see again. If bad on Recirc, then it is a matter of taking apart the pipes from the filter to the section inground, and seeing if there is blockage in any section. While a bit of a pain, you have lots of unions, so the job will not be difficult. If only bad when on Filter - then it is time to take apart and check the Sand filter. Report back, and we can help with that task.

A bit odd to see only one pipe out of the ground into the pump, and one return going back into the ground. How many skimmers and deep end drains are there? How many return jets into the pool? Is there anywhere else not yet pictured where there are valves to control flow, if there are either multiple suction inlets, or multiple jets?

Thanks for reply……..I will do everything you mentioned this morning. I only have one skimmer. Four returns in pool, I had to abandon the main drain years ago and capped it off because of underground damage to pipe. The pool was leaking and when I plugged the main drain in pool the leaking stopped.

I also disconnect the heat pump because the fiberglass pool was getting metal stains, once I took heater out, no more stains. I assume it was copper pipes in heat pump.

Donldson · May 12, 2025

Jen102100 said:
Why would the pool store not be testing correctly?

Why would they be too worried about the accuracy of something they give away for free to get people in the store and buying their products?

Newdude · May 12, 2025

I'd try to prime through the waterfalls. If they worked, you'd prove it to the return line or the valve. They are likely dripping because it has openings way bigger than the garden hose. Then i'd open up the valve and Drain King the return line if nothing was obviously wrong inside.

Jen102100 · May 12, 2025

JamesW said:
@onBalance is the best expert on plaster.

Maybe they can look and give an opinion.

Why would the pool store not be testing correctly? If i buy the correct test kit it will identify the the type if stains

ajw22 · May 12, 2025

Welcome to TFP.

You have to dig more out to expose the pipe.

Is that pipe white Schedule 40 PVC?

You want glued new pipe to make a permanent fix. A plug or some barbed pipe with hose clamps has a good chance of failing in the future.

The way to fix a break like that where you cannot move the pipes for couplers is to cut out a length of pipe and use four 90s to fit in the space. You need to dig out more around the pipe to have a hole to work in.

Leak Repair Question

I had a leaking pipe under a concrete deck. Guys cut out a square and made this repair to a pipe when runs to the built in spa. Is this appropriate/adequate? There really is no room without pulling out a lot more deck. Thanks!

www.troublefreepool.com

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Branster · May 12, 2025

A big hello from the UK.

I've found TFP to be invaluable in sorting my pool over the last few years but I've hit a problem that I need advice on.

I updated my outlets using this
Amazon.co.uk. As I wanted to continue using my current hoses I then used intex adapter B (38mm to 32mm).

All good so far but now I am unable to connect my Intex floating skimmer to the plate of the new outlet. Does anyone know how this can be achieved with some type of adapter?

Any help is hugely appreciated.

Thank you.

ajw22 · May 12, 2025

Welcome to TFP?

How out of square is the pool?

How much pipe remains in the extended corner?

Is the pool level?

How to level above ground pool - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

ajw22 · May 12, 2025

Rodents like just about every model pool heater.

MK Rat Proofing Products

We Keep Rodents Out Of Your Pool Heater

mkratproofing.com

Newdude · May 12, 2025

paul1971 said:
I use the smart stir from the pro kit i bought thru this forum

OK sweet. I often wonder how tricky it would be by hand as most drops flicker it red. But I wait a 1/2 second and it keeps going back to yellow-y milk. Then, BOOM. There's no mistaking that one. Lol.

ajw22 · May 12, 2025

Is your underground pipe solid schedule 40 PVC or some type of flex hose?

It is doubtful tree roots can squeeze or break schedule 40 PVC.

Water pressure is inversely proportional to pipe size. You can get high water pressure from a small house water pipe or garden hose. When that same flow is put into a 1.5” PVC pipe the pressure will drop.

Newdude · May 12, 2025

Dirk said:
unfortunately it is now in the hands of USPS, which treats Amazon arrival dates as a mere suggestion.

Newdude · May 12, 2025

paul1971 · May 12, 2025

Newdude said:
40 lbs would put your reading close to 3000 and the pool store a little over 3000, while the cell was still under 4000. Everybody wins. Its not going to go up on its own and the spring has been awfuly wet so far so it'll probably continue to drop more than normal.

Sounds like youre not using a smart stir. It really makes a difference for salt.

I use the smart stir from the pro kit i bought thru this forum

Ok i’ll dump in a 40lbs bag then…

ajw22 · May 12, 2025

Those should work fine.

Plumb a skinner to give the pump enough water and at least two returns.

Intex Skimmer Install - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com