Removing old breaker

We are back in business my friends! Indeed, I just had to pull and wiggle harder than I thought. I also took off the single pole breaker next to it first which gave me more grip and leverage, and off she came. New breaker popped right in and wire connections were piece of cake. The $$ for the electrician went to Mother's Day dinner instead. Thanks everyone!
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Mixed Instructions - VS Pump & SWG

To clarify...

That valve in the middle of the H manifold is a check valve with a 5 pound spring.

As that check valve is installed in the H configuration, it creates a bypass at high flow rates.

That check valve does not perform the functions other check valves in pool plumbing typically do.

Aquacal calls it a BYPASS KIT. The kit consists of the check valve in the manifold configuration as a bypass.
i get it, but this is apparently what aquacal sent with the heater....

also i went into my profile in pool math and linked to my profile. can you see if you can see my logs now please?

also i haven't added any shock since slam finished, and we had rain. but SWG has been off. it'll be on in the am, should i throw in another gallon of chlorine in the morning you think also? then let SWG do it's thing? how often do you all typically add chlorine during a season when the swg is running? after a heavy rain typically is what i would do here...

Mixed Instructions - VS Pump & SWG

You reported CYA of 60 and 75 within minutes of each other, and an FC of 5.
1) always round CYA up to the next 10, or only fill the view tube to each ten when you test. Review the instructions here: CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
2) If your CYA is 80, you should be 6-11 FC with SWG. But, you are running your SWG, like a LC pool (adding for 12 hours). FC pool is 9-11
3) Get your FC up to 10 with liquid chlorine and keep it there with SWG
4) Run your VSP 24/7. Run your SWG 23 hours and reduce your % output.
5) Follow this link-->FC/CYA Levels
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Mixed Instructions - VS Pump & SWG

see link below...this is what mine looks like and i've attached images. the actual model when you zoom in on mine is


so i have no idea if they gave me the wrong one but it came from the factory with the unit. at least in the photo from their shop it showed this box on top of the heat pump.

i'll reach out to aquacal tomorrow and ask them how to confirm but it looks like the links above.
To clarify...

That valve in the middle of the H manifold is a check valve with a 5 pound spring.

As that check valve is installed in the H configuration, it creates a bypass at high flow rates.

That check valve does not perform the functions other check valves in pool plumbing typically do.

Aquacal calls it a BYPASS KIT. The kit consists of the check valve in the manifold configuration as a bypass.

How many of you have a sacrificial anode installed, and do not have a heater?

Why,

I do not know the exact number, but my guess is that 98% of saltwater pool owners do not have an anode and that most of them have no corrosion issues..

Using an anode seems to be related to where you live.. More people in the North East, seem to think they are required, while people in Texas and Florida, do not.

Until recently I had three saltwater pools.. I had them for well over 12 years.. None of them had an anode, and I had zero corrosion on anything in or near the pools.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Mixed Instructions - VS Pump & SWG

I've been following along with you. TFP survives with the support of our members. There are no annoying pop-up and ads. Please consider supporting TFP as you're able:



I can't see your numbers. Feel free to post a full set of results next time you test. Vinyl pools are a bit easier to manage. Keep numbers within recommended ranges. We do recommend lower TA with SWG pools to mitigate scale in the cell. Shoot for the 60-80 range.

I like to run FC a bit hot. There's not harm in doing so and keeping FC a bit high gives you a bit of a cushion. I make it easy and target about 10% of my CYA. When my CYA is at 80 ppm, I target an FC of 8 ppm.

I'm glad things are going well!

Numbers are here.
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Copper in water- trying not to get pool stored.

something in our system corroding
Oh, Lord. Please, for the love of Lucile Ball, stay out of the pool store. Ask me why I am "PoolStored." Actually, don't just see this link. Link-->I knew I was Pool Stored when...

the guy at Leslie’s
LOW pH will cause corrosion, not high pH. He doesn't know what he is talking about.

Without staining, or someone's blond hair turning green, copper is not an issue. Stop using the pool store and reacting to their fear tactics. You pool looks fantastic.

Here is what you need to do.
  1. Get your own test kit and manage your own pool. Here are our recommendations. Link-->Test Kits Compared
  2. Review pool care basics. -->Pool Care Basics
  3. Review FC / CYA relationship.-->FC/CYA Levels
  4. Get pool math, it will help you with all chemical additions. -->PoolMath
This is TFP-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

When you get your kit, post up results and we'll fine tune you.

Full House Ok GIF

Floating skimmer baskets when pump is on

GPM isn't that useful. You'll have to experiment to determine the minimum RPM that closes the flow swtich. Keep lowering the pump speed until you get a red flow light. Add 100-200 RPM and use that as your RPM floor.
Really? I swear my manual says GPM minimum is 20.
That's common and quite possible. Makes sense to start troubleshooting there. The o-ring and the mating surfaces must be clean. Apply a thin coat of lube.
Got it!
Main drains don't really do that. The suction is too weak and dispersed.
I don’t mean leaves and large debris, but the dust and floating particles that make their way to the bottom, right?
Thank you!

Mixed Instructions - VS Pump & SWG

False advertising, but ok.

see link below...this is what mine looks like and i've attached images. the actual model when you zoom in on mine is


so i have no idea if they gave me the wrong one but it came from the factory with the unit. at least in the photo from their shop it showed this box on top of the heat pump.

i'll reach out to aquacal tomorrow and ask them how to confirm but it looks like the links above.

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Circupool RJ+ $10 Upgrade program gone???

If you've considered automation, there is new Core Series that was recently released that offers, "advanced automation designed for seamless integration with your existing pool setup. This WiFi-enabled chlorine generator ensures your pool stays clean, balanced, and easy to manage—all from your smartphone."

We've had a few members install them recently. What's frustrating is there's no way to set SWG scheduling via the app. I'm guessing in the future there will be more features and integration with other devices. Here's a link if you're interested.

1747016290724.png

Cya high

Is that considered etching?

I doubt it.
Can it be fixed with balancing the chemicals.

You have to identify the stain first to know.


It feels like it needs to be sanded

That is always an option.

Cya high

Not from high CYA.

Could be organic from lack of chlorine or metals staining.
Is that considered etching? Can it be fixed with balancing the chemicals. It feels like it needs to be sanded
Are you just going to keep posting the same problem every year and ignore the advice?

We are wasting our time if you are not going to get a good test kit and begin to follow the recommendations.

wow! Pretty friggin rude

Mixed Instructions - VS Pump & SWG

Hey guys it's been a fun few days now that I see the light at the end of the tunnel.
I've been following along with you. TFP survives with the support of our members. There are no annoying pop-up and ads. Please consider supporting TFP as you're able:


But please check my numbers...I think I'm pretty good on everything even the FC of 5.
I can't see your numbers. Feel free to post a full set of results next time you test. Vinyl pools are a bit easier to manage. Keep numbers within recommended ranges. We do recommend lower TA with SWG pools to mitigate scale in the cell. Shoot for the 60-80 range.

I like to run FC a bit hot. There's not harm in doing so and keeping FC a bit high gives you a bit of a cushion. I make it easy and target about 10% of my CYA. When my CYA is at 80 ppm, I target an FC of 8 ppm.

I'm glad things are going well!

Copper in water- trying not to get pool stored.

A well should be contributing zero copper to your pool water. If it is, it’s contaminated and shouldn’t be used anymore. If u you oh haven’t been adding algaecides, Clorox chlorine, or using mineral systems, then more than likely Leslie’s test is wrong.
Just liquid chlorine and acid so far because our pH was high- the guy at Leslie’s said that it could be something in our system corroding, it’s been high on 2 separate tests (second test was higher). I’m going to have them test again this week just to see if it went up again.

Copper in water- trying not to get pool stored.

Welcome to TFP.



No


Yes.

Do you have staining?

What type of filter do you have? If you have a cartridge file, what color is the cartridge?

Show us pictures of what your pool looks like.
I don’t think there’s any staining? We have a sand filter

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