Do you have automation? If so, what do you have?
Post a picture of your pad.
Post a picture of the label on the pump basket with model number and manufacture date.

Hi, the pool lights are wired on the same breaker as a gfci outlet. The other equipment: pump, heater, swg, are far enough from the pool so they don't need gfci protection.

A concern I have is whether the position of the light switch located before the transformer (as per the owner's manual) can cause back emf.

I think Flyback emf and transient voltage spikes on the secondary winding can/will be induced and can severely damage the led circuitry. I thought of this during installation but have since taken it more seriously now that the leds actually failed.

I've seen conflicting info about leaving a transformer energized with no load. But I can simply add another switch between the transformer and led light units, and use the second switch to choose led colour and power them on/off before shutting off the transformer itself.

Any thoughts on this?

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

You'll need a small section of 2-in PVC to make the connection between the second SWG union and the flow switch. You may be able to use some of the scrap you cut off, but I would have a foot or so on hand just in case. Your section won't be this long, but you get the idea.

View attachment 648086

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That’s a perfect example I have the plumbing squared away in my mind.

I’m going to tackle the plumbing after work tomorrow straight away now that I understand.

But I’d like to square away the electrical tonight.

So the wiring from my vs Jandy pump runs in this conduit to the old controller, so I’ll connect the provided wiring to the wiring in the conduit after I disconnect it from the old controller?

nevromni said:

Thank you for your reply. I agree .. simply by the fact that it is deeper in one end versus the other means the liner is being stretched a little more on that deeper end... It is not something that is visible to the eye in this case with everything else level and the stretching not obvious or noticable. I know the safest recommendation is to have it level within 1" but I also know there is a safe maximum inch out of level.. I just wanted to get a feel for real users and real experiences with a level top rail and straight legs and no leaning how safe I really am at 2" unlevel between opposite ends?

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I would also like to add when I walk around the pool, which I have multiple times, and look at the angle perpendicular wise of the legs to the ground and the gap between the liner and the legs they are even all the way around, the liner does not appear to be stretched in any significant way it seems to lay on the ground evenly for the most part. Again I believe these pools are built to withstand more than Google searches would lead you to believe. If they weren't durable they wouldn't sell them, this is not a wonky setup with legs all disheveled and the liner angled in different positions, it is level in many different ways. I believe some shifts in soft soil bottom and weight of pool caused an unlevel appearance that is valid but not necessarily "unsafe" ... I'm definitely not an expert and do have concerns but I'm not ignorant either so as I internally analyze I thought I'd put feelers out and make connections with other personal experiences.

Bperry said:

Eeek. You can recycle the strips as they are pretty worthless. $50/year? you can safely cancel that if you decide to follow TFP (which is free)

Here’s a link to the only test kits we trust, with some details on test strips.

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!

www.troublefreepool.com

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CANCELLED!!!!!!! Thanks for the info. I’ll continue to follow TFP

Thank you for your reply. I agree .. simply by the fact that it is deeper in one end versus the other means the liner is being stretched a little more on that deeper end... It is not something that is visible to the eye in this case with everything else level and the stretching not obvious or noticable. I know the safest recommendation is to have it level within 1" but I also know there is a safe maximum inch out of level.. I just wanted to get a feel for real users and real experiences with a level top rail and straight legs and no leaning how safe I really am at 2" unlevel between opposite ends?

You'll need a small section of 2-in PVC to make the connection between the second SWG union and the flow switch. You may be able to use some of the scrap you cut off, but I would have a foot or so on hand just in case. Your section won't be this long, but you get the idea.

Pump info attached. Will get better pic of pump basket bonding lug tomorrow.

stewbeans22 said:

I’m using the Clorox 6 way test strips. Should I not use swim university app at all? I’d be glad to not spend the $50/yr subscription. Lol

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Eeek. You can recycle the strips as they are pretty worthless. $50/year? you can safely cancel that if you decide to follow TFP (which is free)

Here’s a link to the only test kits we trust, with some details on test strips.

Yep. If you need more reassurance, measure the socket inside of the union you'll be installing. You should have about a quarter inch to spare.

Thank you. Btw I really messed up. I found a way that no one talks about to remove the metal from water first. Run you main through home house filter then put to return automate through sprinkler valve and relay. I filled from hose was worried I would overfill and hose is much slower. I noticed pool reading when going through my carbon filter, and other filters to show no copper etc.

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

Resources...

Login to view embedded media

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

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Okay so 1.75” back from the backside of this union so I’ll have enough to fully seat into the union? That’s what you’re saying right?

What are Canada code requirements for GFCI CBs for pumps and gas heaters?

Are the pool lights wired through a GFCI outlet?

The TF100 from the same place is about $80 and has 2.7X the supplies of the comparable priced K2006 (no C).

We highly recommend the stirrer which is included in the Pro kit but can be purchased separately. Swirling by hand gets old and the stirrer really makes a difference for consistency and accuracy.

You want the salt version of the TF100 (forgot that part). The cell isnt as accurate as it uses conductivity to determine salinity and you don't want to dose from a guess. Salt doesnt come out easily if you over do it.

Melnox said:

I'm not sure if others do this as well?

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terzene1 said:

Thanks for this, sorry for my ignorance, based on the photos above does it look like it’s wired correctly? If so it just seems like I just need to put the heater into pool BO mode?

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It is easy enough to give it a try and find out.

Bperry said:

Wouldn’t recommend swim universities recommendations. You don’t need any calcium in AGP. Also, pH down is damaging to salt cells and anything metal (if your pool walls are metal?) don’t use it anymore.

The chlorine needs to be tested with a FAS-DPD kit to be accurate. If the water is brand new, then there will be no CYA, but if you’ve been using chlorine pucks or powder, then it’s likely not zero. Post up what test kit your using for more detailed info.

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I’m using the Clorox 6 way test strips. Should I not use swim university app at all? I’d be glad to not spend the $50/yr subscription. Lol

I have an automated system that tells us salt n what level we have our chlorine set too, but the kit on here is &170+ is there a kit I can get that isn’t so expensive?

Uhhello said:

How are you getting your salt levels? You need to use a drop test to get good salt levels if you haven't.

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I have since bought the Clorox salt test strips. Put about an inch of pool water in a cup and put the strip in. The water leaches up the test strip and where the peak of the white line is you compare that number to the chart on the bottle.

SusanHRN said:

Should I have a pool fill company fill the pool prior to the techs coming out to remove the cover and complete the pool opening?

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Yes, water level should be 1/2 way up the opening of the skimmer.

However, with the water down 3 feet, there is likely a leak in the liner. With 5 years of no attendance, water should be overflowing in CT.
Is there a cover on the pool?
Is there a fixture on the pool wall where the current water line is?

Can you post picture of what you can? Pool and equipment pad? That would help us...

If you can, fill out your signature:

ajw22 said:

With the DTH101 you will have no thermostat control over the H400FDN heater in bO mode.

The heater will continually heat until 104F.

The DTH101 web page says:

You need to change the pool thermostat with this wifi thermostat. The pool thermostat is in circuit that turn your heater on or off and normally you can easily change the thermostat, but please check the pool heater thermostat before buying the unit.

The H400FDN Manual says:

2-wire remote control connection:
To configure the heater for 2- wire remote thermostat control, use the “MODE” key on the heater keypad
to put the control into “STANDBY” mode. Then press and hold both the “( - )” and “MODE” keys for 3 seconds
until the display shows the code “bo”.
On the remote control wiring terminal block (Figure 18), connect the appropriate wires from the remote
control to the terminals adjacent to the ORANGE wire (“POOL”) and WHITE wire (“24V”).
To operate the heater by remote thermostat, the heater’s control must be in either “POOL” or “SPA”
mode. The display will show “bo”. The “POOL” or “SPA” LED will be illuminated. The remote thermostat
will operate the heater. The heater’s thermostat will function to limit the water temperature to a maximum of
104°F.

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Thanks for this, sorry for my ignorance, based on the photos above does it look like it’s wired correctly? If so it just seems like I just need to put the heater into pool BO mode?

These leds are so expensive. If I can do any simple task to protect them I will.

Today I added a surge suppressor to my panel to protect the leds (and the other electronic equipment). I hope this helps. I'm not sure if others do this as well?