ibondsmith said:

or if I will somehow recoup the cost in the next few years.

Click to expand...

It *might* Heaters add a bit of head, and have a minimum flow rate. If you don't run the heater, and you can bypass the heater, you can run lower RPM.

ibondsmith said:

Do you think the SWG and flow switch will work on the 60 degree incline? PoolStored, you seemed to think the cell would be fine but maybe not the flow switch. Would there be an issue with installing the flow switch on the relatively horizontal pipe leading into the heater? Just a thought.

Click to expand...

I think the incline is just fine, for cell and flow switch. You want 12" of straight before the flow switch, and the cell can count. I would go Heater --> incline-->cell-->flowswitch-->return.

What is the distance between the two elbows on the proposed location (length of the straight 60 degree incline PVC pipe)?

TinFoilHat said:

Sounds like you have algae. Can you post all of your test results? Hopefully you have one of our recommended test kits.
Test Kits Compared

Click to expand...

Those are all of my test results. I was on heavy duty cleaning mode before I started testing, I guess I only started testing 3 days ago

Rural King is my go to for Chlorine. 10 % strength
on sale now case of 4 gallons at 1$14.99
for some reason they call it Liquid Chlorinator / Pool Shock

Big Box Builder store offer what looks like last years supply of very filthy diirty boxes for about 40 % more than Rural King's fresh supply.
Won't be able to get it there (Rural King) in a few months time though.

Ocean State Job Lot is supposed to be good if you have one near you.
Or any HASA dealer. BYO Jugs still there?

Just ordered my TF Pro Salt.

Thank you for the information on the heater bypass. I see the value in the bypass, but I am not looking to invest in a lot of changes beyond the purchase of the SWG unless it's absolutely necessary, or if I will somehow recoup the cost in the next few years. I am in a temporary rental home (3-4 years) having been displaced by the California wild fires earlier this year. I got the SWG because I was/am convinced that it will pay for itself in liquid chlorine and time/hassle savings.

Do you think the SWG and flow switch will work on the 60 degree incline? PoolStored, you seemed to think the cell would be fine but maybe not the flow switch. Would there be an issue with installing the flow switch on the relatively horizontal pipe leading into the heater? Just a thought.

One somewhat related question...

Now that I'm converting to a SWG I understand that I will need to raise my CYA. It is currently at 50. This is admittedly a Leslies measurement corroborated by test strips, but I don't have my test kit yet. If I do indeed need to raise the CYA, would using the pucks I purchased before finding TFP be an ok way to do that. I now know that stabilized chlorine is no good for regular use, but I do have a big bucket of pucks sitting around.

Thanks.

P.S. I have plenty of fodder for my PoolStored entry, which I will post after I have installed the SWG and my pool is running smoothly - fingers crossed!

I searched for the pump I have but couldn't find it listed anymore. You should be able to find one for $75-100 if you plan to buy. Something like this should work...

PoolStored said:

Ok, lets do this. Read this ENTIRE article, then test your CYA starting at #8. Let's get an accurate CYA to know what to do next.

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

Click to expand...

Okay, I just read that article so I'll do that and report back.

M,

How do you know that you don't have algae??

Have you done an OCLT?? Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Thanks,

Jim R.

malimited said:

Is this normal for the jets to stop working every single day, am I doing something wrong? Can there be any of there causes?

Click to expand...

Logs don't have before 3 days.

You may have algae and not know it. Very common for your symptoms. Can you do this test and report results? Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Sounds like you have algae. Can you post all of your test results? Hopefully you have one of our recommended test kits.
Test Kits Compared

stacy78132 said:

Also i think i did she sharing right for anyone to see my results.

Click to expand...

Can't see them. Are you using the same login/pw as TFP?

Also see post #10

It's not recommended to do it that way because of the wear and tear on your pump. If you are draining the whole pool then renting a pump from Home Depot will work best for you. Tell us why you are draining to begin with.

Mdragger88 said:

Good call on the poolmath
You can toggle on “sharing” in the poolmath settings and we will be able to see your logs through a link without you having to post them. (Click my avatar to see mine)

Its safe to have fc anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya.

• "Min FC" is 7.5% of the CYA level
• "Target FC" is 11.5% of the CYA level
• "SLAM FC" is 40% of the CYA level

A couple issues arise with cya so high though…
If there’s an algae problem its quite impractical and expensive to treat it properly (do the slam process)
&
At maintenance/target fc levels above 10ppm it skews the ph results which means you are torn between accuracy with ph and sanitary conditions.
The sooner you perform a water exchange to get cya down to a reasonable level the better as it will result in a much simpler path.
Do the diluted cya test procedure as poolstored linked to get a better estimate on how much water you need to exchange.

Click to expand...

Also i think i did she sharing right for anyone to see my results.

First picture, handle facing to 9 o'clock.
See where it says "off" on the tab on the handle? That is where the gate is. So handle at 3 o'clock, tab with "off" at 9 o'clock means main drain is off.
When handle at 9 o'clock and tab with "off" at 3 o'clock, skimmer is off.

Mdragger88 said:

Good call on the poolmath
You can toggle on “sharing” in the poolmath settings and we will be able to see your logs through a link without you having to post them. (Click my avatar to see mine)

Its safe to have fc anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya.

• "Min FC" is 7.5% of the CYA level
• "Target FC" is 11.5% of the CYA level
• "SLAM FC" is 40% of the CYA level

A couple issues arise with cya so high though…
If there’s an algae problem its quite impractical and expensive to treat it properly (do the slam process)
&
At maintenance/target fc levels above 10ppm it skews the ph results which means you are torn between accuracy with ph and sanitary conditions.
The sooner you perform a water exchange to get cya down to a reasonable level the better as it will result in a much simpler path.
Do the diluted cya test procedure as poolstored linked to get a better estimate on how much water you need to exchange.

Click to expand...

Thank you so much for all the the detailed info! I'm going to read through everything that has been sent. And I just bought more chlorine so I can add it tonight. We had our pool built almost 2 years ago and over the last several months I've really been learning a lot more through this site on how to keep everything maintained.

stacy78132 said:

I tested my water using the Taylor test kit and I guessed at my CYA being 120 because it didn't get up to the 100 mark but there weren't any marks that went higher than 100.

Click to expand...

Ok, lets do this. Read this ENTIRE article, then test your CYA starting at #8. Let's get an accurate CYA to know what to do next.

YippeeSkippy said:

Are you talking about tracks that go on the "wheels" ?

Click to expand...

Maddie,
I think the OP means these:


To the OP, looks like the rings on Amazon.se are about $20 USD, or $220Kr. That is about as good as it gets. I have used both aftermarket and OEM in the past. I liked the OEM, but I had both good and bad with the aftermarket (one set was fine the other struggled). Hope that helps!

PoolStored said:

Absolutely. Do it now.

Read this article:

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

How did you get 120? How are you testing your water. I would recommend that you retest starting at #8 here:

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

Click to expand...

I tested my water using the Taylor test kit and I guessed at my CYA being 120 because it didn't get up to the 100 mark but there weren't any marks that went higher than 100.

What name name-brand sand did you use?

ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.

CYA > 90 dilution Test​

For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test, adjusting the procedure as follows:

1. Fill the mixing bottle with pool water to the lower mark (15 ml line).
2. Continue filling the mixing bottle with tap water to the upper mark (30 ml line).
3. Shake briefly to mix.
4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle so it is again filled to the lower mark (15 ml line).
5. Continue the test normally by adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.

If you need to dilute the pool water further, then apply these ratios:

Pool water	Tap or distilled water	Multiply result by
1	1	2
1	2	3
1	4	5

Note that when doing a diluted test, you multiply the range of the test and the error rate of the test, so the results are a ballpark—not an absolute.

See CYA Testing for tips on how to read the test results.


You have a Hybrid Pools - Further Reading

Click to expand...

For simplicity I just mix up a batch of water with one cup of pool water and one or two cups of distilled water then use that mixed amount for your testing, according to dilution you need to use for testing.

Works great (with distilled water) also for chlorine testing if you run out of DPD powder.

You will have algae in your water for quite a while as you kill if off day by day. Don't forget it will be hiding in your skimmer, on the weir door, in your pool returns, in the pool light, in the main drain cover, in the autofill, etc. All of those need to be scrbbed and cleaned with chlorinated water. This is a slog but it gets better as you go on.

milosmanzer said:

Will keep up the acid work. I use water from the tap as fill water. The CH of tap is around 165 here in Vegas, from my faucet anyway. Which is way lower than my 425. Is there a thread describing options for softening water? I'll look into the FAS-DPD kit. My reagents are only DPD. I'll try and find the one TFP sells. This one is about 1.5 yrs old. So, probably should get a new one. In addition, I can't detect lower than 7.0 PH on my test kit. Does the TFP kit indicator show sub 7.0?

Click to expand...

The TF-Pro Salt will serve you well.

pH needs to be kept in the 7's. Usually 7.2-7.9 range, based on your other test results.

You can install a whole house water softener and plumb it to your autofill line.
Or you can install a portable RV style softener near your autofill feed line. But the portable softener will need more frequent recharging and it's a manual operation.

milosmanzer said:

The CH of tap is around 165 here in Vegas, from my faucet anyway. Which is way lower than my 425.

Click to expand...

Evap and fill will still raise your CH, even with 165 fill. CH doesn't go away, it accumulates.
Softening water is getting a water softener and using the output of the softener to refill/autofill your pool. CH will be 0 or close and won't add CH.
If your reagents are 1.5yrs old, in Vegas, I'd get this kit and don't look back. Link-->TF-Pro Salt
Keep it in a cool, dry (vegas duh), dark location and they will last longer.
Yes, it will show you if pH is lower than 7 on the comparator. Will not tell you how much below...

Welcome to TFP.

You have to show a head on face view, not a side view.

ajw22 said:

A larger opening requires more flow to maintain the same pressure.

For a given flow the smaller orifice will give a higher pressure.

Bernoullis Principle - Bernoulli's principle - Wikipedia

Click to expand...

I suspected so, but wasn't sure if it was contrary. Just like a high pressure squirt nozzle on a hose. Thanks!