mas985 said:

Here is an extrapolation based upon the pump's head curve and efficiency of pumps in that size range.

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Can you explain how the power should be measured and what the readings should be?

Welcome to TFP.


Gently scrape a sample of the suspected black algae with your fingernail and then smudge it on plain white paper. If the smudge scrapes off and is a greenish color, then it’s black algae.

For Black Algae, you will have to disrupt the surface of the algae physically. You can use a wire brush or if it is just a few spots, put on a mask and snorkel, go into the pool, and pick at it with a bamboo BBQ skewer.

If you have more than just a few spots, get in the pool with a weak pressure washer, and you can use that to blast away the BA.

After physically disrupting the BA, you should dose it with Liquid Chlorine. Get the strongest LC you can find, and if the BA is close to the edges, pour the chlorine down the side where it washes over where the BA used to be. If the BA is all over the place, you can fill a 1-gallon pump sprayer, get into the pool, and spray those spots. And yes, you can do this all underwater.

Then you must keep your FC at 20% of CYA for the next several weeks.

This is the part that sucks; run your FC on the high side in the future at a minimum of 12% of CYA; 15% is better to try and keep the black algae at bay.

Evan,

Well it sounds like your pool guy thought the main drain was working.. That said is it just about impossible to tell if the main drain is working.. Even if you sweep something over it, you will never see it get sucked in.. But, let's assume it is working..

Your pool guy left it in 100% skimmer for a reason... Skimmers are really the heart of what makes your pool work.. They keep the surface of your pool free of debris.. The more stuff that makes it into your skimmers the better... Stuff that sinks needs to be cleaned up by a cleaner of some kind.. I use a robot, but many here use suction side, or pressure side, cleaners.

Until recently, I had two rent house pools.. neither pool had an operational main drain.. Both pools had two hole skimmer with the main drain plumbed into the bottom of the skimmer. I bought and tried to use the diverter device (different than yours) and never could get it to consistently work.. I just gave up.. Later I found out what a waste of time it was for me to be worrying about a non-working main drain.. That was years ago... I ran those pools with no main drain for well over 13 years and found that my water quality was just as good as everyone else, even without a main drain..

Since you already ordered the new diverter, you should try it out and tell us what happens.

If you had a newer pool, that had the main drain run back to the equipment pad, out advice would be to use 95% skimmer and 5% main drain..

Thanks,

Jim R.

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Welcome to TFP.

High levels of chlorine will not damage ceramic tiles.

You can put dry stabilizer in socks, hang it in the pool, and let it dissolve as it fills.

Newdude said:

It went in, so it has to be able to come out, but it needs to be rotated just so to fit.

When the same happened to me, my shop vac got it out with many attempts of rapid on/off with the vac hose. Eventually it vibrated it to the right position and out it popped.

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If I can get the plug near the opening, I’ll try to get it out. But it’s a snug fit even before tightening it, and I loosened it maybe a quarter-turn when it got sucked in. Plus, the line exits the skimmer horizontally, and it is between two vertical, so I’m not sure I can get a seal with a shop vac. I’ve got a Cyclone I use for blowing out the lines when closing. Maybe with everything else closed up I can get enough pressure with the Cyclone to push it out. Although now that I check the product pages, it looks like the Cyclone can also be used for suction.

zdfoster said:

Thanks for the help...still no luck even with the old board. Time to call in a service tech. Thanks for the help

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Did you jumper the PS terminals at the PCB connector?

I would not spend more money on a service tech. He does not know more than you do and will just empty your wallet and replace parts.

It's time to get a new heater.

23? 354571
Compare size here:

generessler said:

Another bit of info is that when I'm running the normal low speed with bypass off, heater off: 1100 rpm @ 38 gpm, then switch the bypass to heater, the flow drops to just about zero.

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1100 RPM is too low to get much flow through a MasterTemp heater. The MasterTemp heat exchanger is very restrictive.

I need 2400 RPM for good flow through my MasterTemp.

I am filling the pool first, adding chemicals when done, so no CYA for now. It will take another week or ten days to fill, bad idea to wait so long? Should I put the CYA in now?

Thanks for the help...still no luck even with the old board. Time to call in a service tech. Thanks for the help

Digital testers, available to consumers are less accurate than Taylor. About the same accuracy as the pool store, and we don’t trust them…

rp0029 said:

Assuming no CYA, how long does free chlorine in these concentrations remain in a pool? It is very sunny here.

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Welcome to TFP!

Why no CYA? Add some, so you can put chlorine into your pool and keep it there. Otherwise you're likely to have 25000 gallons of green water very soon.

rp0029 said:

Will 50 ppm of chlorine harm ceramic tile?

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No. 50ppm is -- as you've calculated -- around 1/1000 the concentration of regular household bleach.

And besides, the tile won't actually be in contact with 50ppm. When you add your 1000 gallons of 50ppm to your 6000+ gallons of 0ppm, it will dilute to around 7ppm. And if you don't have CYA in the water, even that won't remain for more than a few hours.

thomas kleaton said:

Good news! I retried the CYA test twice again the way it's outlined in the article, with the sun at my back, glancing at it, and got better results.

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Crazy, right ?

Don't bother with redoing the test from scratch next time. Just pour the sample mix back and forth as many times as you need to get best of 3.... 4 of 7..... 5 of HOLY COW WE ALL HATE THIS TEST.

Do you have five figures burning a hole in your pocket?

If not, then don't waste your money and time.

Here is an extrapolation based upon the pump's head curve and efficiency of pumps in that size range. It shouldn't be too far off.

I did the same with my inground. A neat gadget that used a small electrical current to see where the electrons flowed through the liner....worth the cost, as he found exactly where to patch it right away.

Good news! I retried the CYA test twice again the way it's outlined in the article, with the sun at my back, glancing at it, and got better results. The first
time I tested, I filled it to 50 mark on vial and could still see it. I then filled it to the 40 mark and dot disappeared.
Second time, I could barely see dot at 40, so filled it to halfway between 40 and 30. Dot disappeared. I rinsed utensils with tap water before second test. so that may have interfered, but I figure CYA is somewhere between 40 and 50 so will use 50 as determining factor in SLAM.

JamesW said:

How much is the flapper on this check valve opening?

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Completely as far as I can see. I guess I could remove the flapper and try that. But the flow gauge is saying flow is way above min.

Another bit of info is that when I'm running the normal low speed with bypass off, heater off: 1100 rpm @ 38 gpm, then switch the bypass to heater, the flow drops to just about zero.

PoolStored said:

R-0007 is Thiosulfate.

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I thought it probably was, but was too lazy to look it up.

Not cheap, but we hired a leak detection expert and he was able to find it lightning fast with his very expensive equipment. Definitely worth it in my opinion.

Water is sneaky as it moves - it can travel a long way from where the leak is, and be hard to spot. You could try blotting with dry paper towels around the outside- but it may be going out of the liner, yet traveling down between it and the outside wall.