What is the radius of each circle, and which is the 3 foot end?

proavia said:

With pump off, remove the pump basket lid. Complete clean all mating surfaces and the lid O-ring. Be sure its squeaky clean and totally free of any debris. Lube the O-ring with a silicone lube (like MagicLube II). Reinstall the O-ring in the lid and reinstall the lid on the pump. Turn on pump to re-prime the system and let us know if the issue is resolved or not.

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Thanks

This^^^ and I have taught my wife how to do the testing in the event that I can't at some point in life. I learned that from another member here who lost her husband and all the knowledge he had about the pool.

I ordered the TFPro Salt kit and do not regret it! This is my first year using it and we just opened the pool this weekend, and the kit combined with the Pool Math app has made it SO easy! I’m on day three and my levels are almost entirely dialed in. The kit is easy to use and has step-by-step instructions. Just make sure to pay attention to the labels on the bottles, as some reagents look very similar (as they are used in conjunction).

Here is the link to it on Amazon. It is Bonbo B0DS1WPJRD - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DS1WPJRD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I looked closer and the image and does seem to be showing the two o-rings (see attached image) - although it doesn't appear that they touch. Maybe I need to pull out the o-ring to see if it is damaged?

Consider a Salt Water Chlorine Generator. That is $1500 (CircuPool RJ60+) up front for 5 years of free chlorine compared to liquid chlorine purchases that will run you about $6500 over the same 5 years. There is nothing wrong with a cartridge filter if it's large enough for your pool. You will need to clean the cartridges 2 or 3 times during the SLAM that you need to do right now, but then if you keep the pool clean and keep your FC at the top of the range for whatever CYA level you have you can probably not clean them for an entire year. If you can get soft water to your pool then you can use that for makeup water that won't run your CH sky high.

Brant said:

Please don't berate me for using a sand filter.

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Brant,

A filter is a filter, just use the one you want..

I personally like large cartridge filters as they only need to be cleaned once a year..

Others here would rather die than give up their DE filters..

And... many, like you, love their sand filters..

I think some of us might get a little passionate about why my Ford filter is better than your Chevy filter, but hope we never berate someone for their choice..

Three, 3 HP VS pumps... I can see why you might be a little concerned about the electrical costs...

In my opinion, saltwater is the only way to go.

Thanks,

Jim R.

The pumps report the power used.

What model pumps?

1.875" hg x 1.133 = 2.12 feet above the water.

The gauge is odd because it has 8 divisions from 0 to 5 and 10 from 5 to 10" hg.

So, each line is 0.625" hg for 0 to 5 and 0.5" hg from 5 to 10" hg.

Quick sloppy measure of depths agrees with my 3ft and 10ft guesses.

The vacuum gauge will not go to 0 if it is higher than the pool water surface.

1" hg = 1.133 ft WC (feet of water column).

Is there a make/model # on the anode? I'd be surprised that there are two o-rings. Try removing one and see what happens...

Not that you would ever notice.

Would there be an advantages if I removed the reducers?

The pool... that's a slide, not a tail.

JPMorgan said:

Would it mean anything if they were replaced and still didn't go to 0?

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Unless I'm missing something, it would mean the new gauges are bad.

Just manage the pH. Wait until pH reaches 8 then lower to 7.6. Any pH in the 7s is good. You may wish to consider using a water softener for your fill to alleviate the CH climbing.

You’ll want to upgrade your test kit for FAS-DPD chlorine testing. Taylor kit K-1515-A as an add-on or otherwise acquire R-0870 and R-0871, or upgrade to another test kit altogether. Speed stir devices are worth it for consistency.

How did you arrive at CYA of 44?

Test Kits Compared

Jimrahbe said:

Brant,

Many here have raised spillover spas, and heaters.. they run between 1500 and 1800 rpm.. Make sure you get a larger (3 HP) VS pump vs. the smaller (1.5 HP) VS pump.. The larger the pump, the slower you can run it and still move a lot of water.. The slower you can run it, the less it costs.. The slower you run it, the quieter it is.. You almost have to touch my pump to make sure it is still running...

Without any 'proof' I personally believe that running 24/7, at a low rpm, is better for the longevity of the pump vs. starting and stopping the pump each day. So far I have been doing this for over 12 years, without any issues.. Only time will tell..

If you are getting an automation system, there is a better way than running your spillover all day.. Automation systems have a 'Spillway' mode.. It sucks water from the pool and sends it all back to the spa.. You just schedule it to run for half an hour, twice a day, and it will keep your spa perfectly sanitized..

Are you going with a Saltwater pool??

Thanks,

Jim R.

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Pool is built, plumbed, etc. I have three 3 hp VS pumps, 2.5" and 3" supply lines. Oversized spa jet plumbing. 10 jets, no blower. Everything is quiet and runs awesome. I also have a designated spillway valve thats automated so I can filter the pool and run the spa overflow (as a visual feature) when guests are over. I plumbed it to be fully automated and controlled from my phone.

I guess the thought of the spa sitting without flow for 23 hrs a day kinda stresses me out. I feel like that water will get stagnant. Maybe this is irrational.

I have a sand filter (using turbidex media) and I have experienced the overflow stop overflowing after about 2 weeks between backflushes. As mentioned, the pool is new (less than 1 month) so I'm sure there is a fair amount of plaster dust still accumulating in the filter. This lack of flow to the spa seemed like a good indicator that the flow had reduced. Looking in the app, flow dropped from around 50 gpm to just over 20 gpm. I hadn't been monitoring it too closely at that point because I figured I would use the pressure gauge on the filter to determine when it was time to backflush. Well according to the gauge, it was not time to clean but based on the flow, it was.

Please don't berate me for using a sand filter. I knew the pros/cons going into this and have been educated plenty of time by people on this forum. We can just agree that we all have differing opinions on the matter.

I also have a salt cell but have not yet added salt or hooked it up. Im currently running a spacer in its place. I intend to switch to salt at some point but right now I'm using liquid and trichlor tabs because I want to see how long I can maintain the pool before my CYA starts climbing. This is for my own knowledge and also to get an understanding of chemical needs/costs so i have a good comparison. Again, please dont berate me.

As far as monitoring chems.... I'm already using a TF-Pro test kit and keeping my LSI/CSI in check.

PoolStored said:

I'm also skeptical of a 35K pool in Mo. What are the L, W, D in shallow and D in deepend...let's get that closer.

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The shape of the pool is oblong basically: not quite kidney bean, rather a figure 8. (To match the street number, I guess.)

I used a laser distance meter to measure the length and two diameters (using the oblong calculator here: Pool Volume Calculator)
I haven't measured depths yet, but I believe it goes from 3 ft shallow end to 10 ft deep end.
Measurements:
Large diam: 25.7 ft
Small diam: 21.2 ft
Length: 39.5 ft

Using that calc, it estimates 40,600 gallons.

I have four large containers of "shock".... basically 10% sodium hypochlorite... which is basically liquid chlorine / bleach? Each is 2.5 gallons, so 10 gallons available at this moment.

I updated PoolMath to use the 40k gallons figure from the calc, and it suggests adding 245 oz. adding 150oz. (EDIT: I had the wrong percent in the app.)
If 2.5 gallon jug is 320 oz, I need about 3/4 jug. 1/2 jug.

Seems legit?

PoolStored said:

2) how are you testing your water? (i.e. what kit do you have?)

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I have some AquaChek strips and a Pentair Pro-11. Both might be a bit old (5yrs?), but what I have at the moment. (I intend to order a better kit.)
Both kits are telling me that I essentially have no FC/CYA.
I also have a digital probe that will measure salt and pH. Using that, for the moment, to measure salt and cross-check the pH measurement of other kits

PoolStored said:

Gauges that do not go to zero should be replaced.

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So you would replace that suction side gauge and one of those filter gauges? Would it mean anything if they were replaced and still didn't go to 0?

Gauges that do not go to zero should be replaced.

Welcome to TFP!!!

Yes. It is better to maintain the pool, than to end up with a SWAMP. It will *likely* take less $ and time to maintain vs. clean up later. Any if they are delayed for any reason and you have a swamp/algae, they will not want to get in to find the leak. Ounce of prevention vs. a pound of cure and all...

Keep your water levels up in the skimmer so that you never starve the pump with water. Fill it so that you are 75% up the skimmer mouth, so if you lose 1.5", you still have water in the right place for your skimmer.

When are they coming out?

711,

If your pool does not have a make-up valve for your spillover spa, then the other option is to offset the Return actuator, so that you are always sending a little water to the spa..

Show us several pics of your equipment pad plumbing..

Also, most automation systems have a 'Spillway' mode.. this mode sucks water from the pool and sends it all to the spa.. When using this mode, most just schedule it to run for half an hour, twice a day, to keep the spa water fresh.. It does not matter if you have a spillover spa, or one that is level with pool, it will work in either case.

Thanks,

Jim R.