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Losing pressure

G
PoolStored said:
With the pump running, take a garden hose and flood each joint. If the pump stops pulling air, that is your joint.
You can also try shaving cream.
You can also try saran wrap.
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Just to be clear what you’re saying. Go to every joint one by one and just flood it with water. How long should I do each joint for? If I did the shaving green, would I just put it at ever joint from pump back to pipes? If I did the shaving cream, would I be looking for something bubbling?
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P
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Brilliant Wonders Lights by CMP - Discontinued. Options to replace?

H
One of my 3 brilliant wonders LED lights has failed. I removed it from the pool and the other two lights work fine. I can't find a replacement light online anywhere, what are my options without replacing the other two lights? I'm sure others are running into this problem now that they are discontinued? The quick disconnect feature was too good to be true I guess...
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CH Increasing + White Spots on Plaster

O
I think you are correct that your softened fill water is not likely contributing to the calcium increase. Any reduction of calcium for your pool is a good move to make. Reducing to 700 - 800 ppm would be good.
Your experiment result does strongly suggest that some "dust" from the coping stones would/is adding calcium to the pool water. Excellent idea. But consider that it would take about 15 lbs. of "dust" in a 9,000 gallon pool to increase the calcium level by 200 ppm.

IMO, the plaster finish looks very good overall. The spots are small and probably not that visible without a close observation. Pool owners often look much closer at their new plaster job than do others, as you mentioned.
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FC and CYA - Justifying the increased cost of Liquid Chlorine

PoolStored
ibondsmith said:
it will require me to run the pump at a high RPM than I have been (I'm told 1,800) when I need to generate FC.
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Mine runs down to 6-700RPM. Every pool is different, but I'd be surprised you have to run that high.
ibondsmith said:
  1. The only spot on my plumbing as it currently exists is on an upward slope of approximately 60 degrees. The folks at Discount Salt Pools say that a vertical installation is better than a horizontal one b/c gravity will insure the pipe is always full (even at slightly lower pump speeds) which will keep the flow sensor on so the unit can produce FC. Anyone see any issue with mounting on an upward slope, and does it make sense that I would get a similar gravitational benefit to a vertical installation?
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Can you post pictures of your pad before we weigh in...in general, you want your flow switch to be horizontal or best case on the up flow. I don't think it matters on the cell, but let's see what you have.
ibondsmith said:


  2. I know that SWGs don't produce FC fast enough for SLAM level, but with a 3x oversized system will I get close such that I can minimize my liquid chlorine use if I have to SLAM?
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You can try, we don't recommend. We recommend you avoid algae altogether. My pool hasn't been slammed since I joined TFP. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
ibondsmith said:


  2. Discount Salt Pools is suggesting that I get my phosphates to zero using PR 10,000. I have read a few posts here on TFP that essentially say not to worry about phosphates but instead focus on keeping FC at the proper levels. What are people's thoughts on Discount Salt Pool's statements that I should use PR 10,000 to get phosphates to zero?
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Ignore phosphates and maintain proper FC for your CYA.
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Scale Buildup on Sidewall Above Water Line

Texas Splash
If that is only above the waterline, you might try manually buffing it out with a rubbing/polishing compound. If that doesn't work, try using other products going from very fine to a little rougher. You could try a Magic Eraser, then perhaps 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper and work your way to a more aggressive grit (i.e. 800 grit) if needed. Anything above the waterline might show tiny imperfections or scratches once it dries, so always do a test area first to ensure you are pleased with it. Even if you do see tiny/fine haziness once it dries, going back over it with a polishing compound should help.
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DIY valve automation for cooling pool

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
I'm sure it could be done. Do you have a WiFi enabled irrigation controller? You should be able to find a 1.5" irrigation valve for the sprayer line. I assume you would run the pump and just activate the cooler during the pump runtime? You could use a Jandy style valve with an actuator and control it with an irrigation timer or simple WiFi relays.

Here's an article from the Wiki section. May help out a bit...

Cooling A Pool - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Pavers Under Legs - Steel wall pool

mariane
Can you put the pool size and type into your signature? It would help out others to know what you have. :)
What do the installation instructions require? Our Doughboy required cinder blocks under the uprights along the straight sides and recommended pavers under the others. I agree with ajw22 about the paver thickness.
The uprights will sink in time without blocks.
Is the wall track on solid ground? Is the gravel and sand on the inside of the pool walls?
Our pool's been up almost 20 years and I've seen a little settling. I wouldn't chance going without the pavers.
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FC and CYA - Justifying the increased cost of Liquid Chlorine

I
Update: I ordered the Circupool RJ-60. Discount Salt Pool was having a sale that made the 60 less expensive than the 45 (go figure), so I will have a unit that is way oversized for the 20k gallon pool. I figure that's not a bad thing as it will extend the life of the cell and not have my FC production needs dictate my pump time - although it will require me to run the pump at a high RPM than I have been (I'm told 1,800) when I need to generate FC.

The install seems fairly straight forward, although I will likely need some assistance with the pump/filter relay connection.

A few preliminary questions as I wait for delivery:
  1. The only spot on my plumbing as it currently exists is on an upward slope of approximately 60 degrees. The folks at Discount Salt Pools say that a vertical installation is better than a horizontal one b/c gravity will insure the pipe is always full (even at slightly lower pump speeds) which will keep the flow sensor on so the unit can produce FC. Anyone see any issue with mounting on an upward slope, and does it make sense that I would get a similar gravitational benefit to a vertical installation?

  2. I know that SWGs don't produce FC fast enough for SLAM level, but with a 3x oversized system will I get close such that I can minimize my liquid chlorine use if I have to SLAM?

  3. Discount Salt Pools is suggesting that I get my phosphates to zero using PR 10,000. I have read a few posts here on TFP that essentially say not to worry about phosphates but instead focus on keeping FC at the proper levels. What are people's thoughts on Discount Salt Pool's statements that I should use PR 10,000 to get phosphates to zero?
Thanks!
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EVO 604 Robot False Start, Margaret to the rescue

mcpack
When researching a replacement for my very old Dolphin robot, I took the excellent advice from many posters to call Margaret at Marine Pool & Spa. She is the real deal, and was very helpful. She hooked me up with the EVO 604. Free shipping, no sales tax, and best price I could find. Plus helping out a family business. Unit arrived promptly, and could not wait to try it out. Well, the power supply was defective and did not work. I called the support number printed on the unit, who then informed me they did not support that model and gave me another number, who said they didn't cover that unit and gave me another number which was the first number. Turns out the company split up the products and haven't figured out who does what. I finally got someone to help and said they would send me a new power supply. Not feeling very confident that I would see anything from the company, I called Margaret to see what they could do. She took care of me, sending me a new power unit immediately. I will update when I actually get to test the unit. 100% postive, 6 out of 5 stars go to Margaret at Marine Pool & Spa.
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CH Increasing + White Spots on Plaster

L
I decided to do a little science experiment. I swept up some of the dust and grit from the stone coping and added a bit of muriatic acid. It bubbled. I’m not sure that my experiment is conclusive, but I take it to mean that it’s likely there is at least some limestone dust in the stuff that gathers near the pool.

So maybe it is the dust that’s contributing to my high CH? Does that seem like a reasonable possibility?
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New member, OLD pool, filters are rotting out, need advice on new filters

PoolStored
ajw22 said:
You must have missed that he is in Arkansas. :whistle:
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healthy.arkansas.gov

Swimming Pools & Related Facilities - Arkansas Department of Health

Information The Arkansas Department of Health offers consultation with pool builders, pool service technicians, engineers, architects and public health officials as well as pool industry personnel regarding the construction requirements for new and renovation of swimming pools, spas, and other...
healthy.arkansas.gov healthy.arkansas.gov
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Strange substance in vacuum basket

tonygret
OK, I finally have some more information. I have had company for a week now with more on the way, plus my pump sprung a leak, so I've been busy, to say the least.

I cleaned the pool again and collected more white stuff. The image shows the powder with and without vinegar after they both dried. The sample on the right got soaked with vinegar. When they dried out, they looked exactly the same as the photo shows. However, the video shows the vinegar mixture bubbling for a short time. I also added a photo of my modest water test kit, which is within the margin of error of the readings I got from Leslie's, which I posted above. However, I don't have a CYA home test kit. Here is a link to the video of the vinegar test. Remember that the sample also had detritus from the bottom of the pool mixed in, and the vinegar may have been reacting to some biological material.

Thank you agaon for your responses.

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My test kit pieced together from various sources.
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This was also found in the vacuum. I have no idea what this could be.
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