The use of Cal Hypo to sanitize is not sustainable and thus not Trouble Free so the selection is not available.

Donldson said:

Welcome to TFP!

Not do derail the topic, but I'm curious how are you managing your CH levels? Most people in Arizona have trouble keeping their CH down when using liquid chlorine or an SWG, it must really rise fast if you're adding calcium every day.

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I don't add calcium every day. I add about a 2 bags of CalHypo every week sometimes a bit more frequent. I just refilled my pool and Calcium was in the 80s to begin with. I usually drain my pool every two years to avoid high Calcium numbers.

Invert and Revert.

Your signature indicates you use "test strips/Leslie's testing".
Is that still the case?
If not, update your signature
If so, you really need your own test kit to test the pool water yourself.
Test Kits Compared
The TF-Pro Salt will have all the items needed to easily test your pool water.

You will be better served by installing a heater bypass. This will allow running the pump at a lower speed when the heater is not needed. The SWG requires a certain flow (every pool is different) to satisfy the SWG flow switch. The heater restricts that flow and requires a higher pump RPM to produce the same flow as when the heater is bypassed.

Newdude said:

Hey Cilo and Welcome !!!!

To see the other options, including several strengths of cal-hypo, scroll down the list.

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I only see those 2 options. I'm not talking about the options to know how much to add but the Sanitiser type question that is under Settings.

The CMP diverter valves at Inyopools are about $65 a piece. Decide which size you need.

Why do you want yo remove it?

I believe it is a Lasco Air/Water Venturi

Lasco has a few different models.

YippeeSkippy said:

If you've broken the biofilm and allowed chlorine to get to the algae, I doubt the biofilm can recover again that fast.

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wouldnt this mean that as long as you break the film and there is sufficient FC that the algae should die once agitated? So if you agitate the whole pool once, it should all die and you could clear the pool in a day?

Where does it keep coming from?

That depends how your draining. We don't recommend you use your pool pump to exchange water. A submersible pump is recommended for water exchanges. You can purchase from any of the big box stores or Amazon, or rent from Home Depot or Lowe's. I don't have any specific recommendations because there are many out there, but I own a Superior 3/4 horsepower version I haven't needed to use yet.

Ended up getting a

Hayward - W3SP3206VSP TriStar Variable Speed Pool Pump, 2.7 THP, 115/230V​

From a local Leslie Pools.
Now i will use the Hayward pump for the Spa.
I may end up getting the Calimar as well and then swap out the Hayward pump for the pool.

Thanks. Will march on and update. I really appreciate all the help

rchesani said:

It was against my recommendation. Hubby did these things while I was at work. I take care of the water testing and reading the forums to take care of the pool without a pool store. However, he did see that my testing is accurate! The pool store sold him the clarifier, but the sand was totally his idea. I told him that sand never wears out and just needs cleaning, which is what he was supposed to be doing. He saw the sand was dirty and had black stuff in it so he changed it out. And now it’s clear

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I disagree that sand doesn't wear out. The pool I inherited when I bought my house was really having no effect on filtering the water. I took the valve off the sand filter and found the sand grains to be completely smooth and round, totally unlike pool sand which is "spikey" all over. It's possible they used the wrong sand, sooooo much was wrong with my pool that very little would have surprised me.
Needed new media anyway. So I went with recycled glass media and couldn't be happier. (9th year now)

Then a SWG would certainly help you out.
Look for one that is at least 2x our pool volume.
If you don't have automation, the Circupool RJ45+ would be good. The RJ60+ would be better as it would allow running the SWG and pump less.

Update your signature with specifics about your pool equipment (manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.

PoolStored said:

Can you post pictures of your pad before we weigh in...in general, you want your flow switch to be horizontal or best case on the up flow. I don't think it matters on the cell, but let's see what you have.

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PoolStored said:

Mine runs down to 6-700RPM. Every pool is different, but I'd be surprised you have to run that high.

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Great to know. I'll experiment with lower speeds.

Don't add any more CYA until you can test it with your new test kit.

How does the water look?
Post a pic.

While waiting on your test it, have a read thru:
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Inspiration:
How Clear is TFP Clear?

I thought I read somewhere that you should only drain to a couple inches below the skimmer. Next time I will be sure to drain more.

proavia said:

Living in the PHX area, you shouldn't need to do a SLAM every May.
Just maintain the pool in the off season just as you do the rest of the year. In the off season, it takes very little time and effort to do.

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Easier said than done - seems most of my work trips to India are in off-season, so I'm gone for 7-12 days at a time. The wife forgets to add chlorine, and I mostly forget to remind her when I'm traveling. I'm actually kind of nervous of a 12 day trip I have in July. Hoping not to come home to a green swamp.

Anyway, I just do the SLAM prior to opening the pool to compensate. Some of this may be PTSD (Pool Trash Springtime Debris) from my old house which even the SWG could not keep up with the palo leaves and beans being dumped in there for weeks on end. I've been meaning to add an SWG, but other stuff keeps breaking on the house.

I need to add a little CYA to bring it up from ~30, then I'm all set for summer - and the onslaught of yellow lab hair!

Welcome to TFP!

Don't use CalHypo to chlorinate in the PHX area.
Our fill water tends to be high in calcium to begin with. And with our high evaporation rates the calcium level of the pool water will increase pretty quickly.

How are you testing your pool water?
Test Kits Compared

Post a full set of current test results from your own test kit
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt (if you have a SWG)
Water Temperature

proavia said:

Welcome to TFP!

Add 3-5 ppm of liquid chlorine daily until your test kit arrives and you can provide quality, accurate numbers.
Use PoolMath to determine how much liquid chlorine that is, based on your pool volume and strength of liquid chlorine.

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Obviously still waiting on my test kit but wanted to share that I added 128oz of 10% liquid chlorine a few hours ago. Tested with a strip (that’s all I have at the moment) a few minutes ago and zero FC reading.

Guessing CYA levels are still low though I’d assume they should be at least in the 45 range after adding 4 pounds a few days ago when it was at 28

Great. As our use of fill water increases, you will need to add acid 2 or 3 times per week to try and drop the TA.
I hope you are using softened water for make up water, keeps the CH levels in check.

Also consider getting a FAS-DPD kit so you can measure FC accurately.

+1 to using 'thick' pavers. The 2 inch stepping stones that everyone calls pavers, are 1.5 inches actual and crack. Not all of them will crack, but 5 to 7 more than none will crack.

Use 2.5+ actual thickness pavers and not stepping stones.

Ok I have chlorine. Need to deal with making heater work in isolation till I figure this out.

If pump works fine in service mode, my head says it’s Intelliconnect.

Welcome to TFP.

Fluidra/Zodiac/Jsndy acquired CMP.

Jandy Hydrocool lights look like CMP Brilliant Wonder lights. See if they will work as a replacement.

What RPM are you running your VS pump at?

Does your sand filter have a push/push backwash valve or a multiport backwash valve?

• Backwash your filter until the backwash water runs clear (or relatively clear since you are in a SLAM and the water is still cloudy)
• Place backwash valve back in filter position
• Run pump at 3000 or higher RPM
• Note filter pressure
• When filter pressure rises 20%-25% above clean pressure at the same RPM (3000 or higher), it's time to backwash again

While in the SLAM, filter pressure can rise quickly and you will need to backwash more often.

The air shouldn't be affecting the need to backwash.

Take a double dose of P.O.P (Pool Owner Patience).
It took some time for your pool to get to the point of needing to SLAM.
It will take some time for you to complete the SLAM as well. A sand filter probably takes the longest to clear a pool.

SarahObrem said:

probably 2” of rain. So it’s getting diluted

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2 inches of water in a pool your size is equal to about 800 gallons, or 3% of your total pool volume.

It's not going to be measurable.