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SWG Install and Opening Help

reaton
FC dropped below 10, here are my most recent pictures (still a lot of cloud cover) and full test results:
FC: 9.5
CC: 0
Ph: 7.9 or 8? See picture, I have trouble differentiating similar shades.
TA: 60
CYA: 50
CH: 175
Salt: 3400

Based on this i think I want to add 56 oz of dry stabilizer, which will also drop my Ph about 0.4, which i think is perfect. After that I'll test again and start using the SWG unless there is something else I should check or do first. Appreciate all the help.
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Salt cell replacement

C
SoCalDIYWannabe said:
Lots of great tips so far. Basing this on some of those and the biggest question is how much room you have in your horizontal.
Based on your original photo, with the yellow in my diagram being your existing salt cell and pipe, how much room do you have? If you are at roughly 20, you should be okay.
View attachment 648163

You'll want to cut the yellow near the blue diverter, but leave enough room for your Tee fitting (the flow sensor that came with the RJ.). 2 inches should be minimum.
You'll want to cut the yellow near the red elbow, but leave enough room for your union - including sliding the rotating ring back. I'd say about 2.5 inches.
View attachment 648168


Then you can plug in your RJ. as such....
View attachment 648173

If you don't think you have enough room, you can put the flow switch before (below) the red elbow.
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That is an amazing illustration I really appreciate it, this will help my brain lol. thank you!
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thinking about converting to salt

PoolStored
snyder3225 said:
realizing just how badly I was "pool stored"....
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Game Of Thrones Wow GIF by SoulPancake


snyder3225 said:
I checked my test kit and I have the Taylor k-2005, instead of the 2006C. Will that work for now? I got it end of last April, but I checked the bottles and they're not expired yet. I can add the salt kit; it's only like $35 on Amazon. I have already downloaded the Pool Math app and am getting used to that.

You mentioned issues with those models; what kind of issues, if I may ask?
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Not to spend your money, but even if reagents were not expired, I'd just get a new kit. You will need the FAS-DPD K-1515 and the salt kit to upgrade your K-2005. Total would be 75$. If your reagents were not stored properly you might just struggle with bad reagents. I replace mine annually. YMMV

I'd recommend the TF100 Salt or TFPro. TFtestkits.net

snyder3225 said:
You mentioned issues with those models; what kind of issues, if I may ask?
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Mostly around the output% and the robustness of the RJ vs. Core and Edge... Might try searching here for RJ, Edge and Core...might find some insightful threads...
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Salt cell replacement

S
Lots of great tips so far. Basing this on some of those and the biggest question is how much room you have in your horizontal.
Based on your original photo, with the yellow in my diagram being your existing salt cell and pipe, how much room do you have? If you are at roughly 20, you should be okay.
1747844445418.png

You'll want to cut the yellow near the blue diverter, but leave enough room for your Tee fitting (the flow sensor that came with the RJ.). 2 inches should be minimum.
You'll want to cut the yellow near the red elbow, but leave enough room for your union - including sliding the rotating ring back. I'd say about 2.5 inches.
1747844660231.png


Then you can plug in your RJ. as such....
1747847137731.png

If you don't think you have enough room, you can put the flow switch before (below) the red elbow.
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New Pentair Mastertemp 400 Heater Install

dailygenesis
ajw22 said:
You are limited by your antiquated Ecommand system.
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Agreed. But thus far, I haven't found a good upgrade path. I've thought about going to one of the newer Hayward systems that has a retrofit kit for the Ecommand, but some have advised against this saying they are unreliable. Do you know of a good system I could explore that might work with all of my equipment and give me better control now and going forward?

Until that can be addressed, it seems to me that the best approach is running all the water through the heater (except in rare situations) and just dealing with the reduced flow as best I can. Would you agree with that?
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When should a Salt cell be cleaned?

Bill1974
I converted last year and have been enjoying not having to lug gallons of chlorine.
I installed a CircuPool RJ-60 PLUS and it's been working fine.
Over the winter I stored the cell out of the weather. Hooked it back up a couple of weeks ago.

Should I be doing any maintenance on it periodically? Or just wait for the maintenance light to come on and clean with the recommended muriatic solution?

The plate looks about the same as when it was installed (beginning of last season).
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Losing pressure

proavia
With pump off, remove the pump basket lid. Complete clean all mating surfaces and the lid O-ring. Be sure its squeaky clean and totally free of any debris. Lube the O-ring with a silicone lube (like MagicLube II). Reinstall the O-ring in the lid and reinstall the lid on the pump. Turn on pump to re-prime the system and let us know if the issue is resolved or not.
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thinking about converting to salt

snyder3225
PoolStored said:
Nikky, Welcome to TFP!

Both the core and the edge are "easier" to install. The core seems to have the most issues, the edge fewer and the least with the RJ series.

The Core only has four power settings, 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100%, so you are going to have to adjust both run time and power level to dial it in. That would be a deal breaker for me. The RJ has 5% output increments, so less fiddling.

If you are going to maintain your pool, you need a proper test kit. Link-->Test Kits Compared
If you are going salt, you need to get the SALT version of the TF100 and TFPro. If you get the Taylor K-2006C, you will need the K-1766 Salt test in addition.

You test your salt BEFORE you add salt, because all forms of chlorination add salt to your pool. You might be surprised at the existing salt level.

Then you can use Pool Math to calculate how much to add based on your current salt level and the salt level required by the SWG. Link-->PoolMath

Hope that helps!
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Thank you! I am learning a lot, and realizing just how badly I was "pool stored"....

I checked my test kit and I have the Taylor k-2005, instead of the 2006C. Will that work for now? I got it end of last April, but I checked the bottles and they're not expired yet. I can add the salt kit; it's only like $35 on Amazon. I have already downloaded the Pool Math app and am getting used to that.

You mentioned issues with those models; what kind of issues, if I may ask?
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New Plaster Pool Startup Issues

lisamarie457
ajw22 said:
You are now past day 4.

200 ppm of CH is ok if you want to stay with that. You are not going to hit a number exactly anyway.

You do not want the water to be pulling calcium out of the plaster. That weakens the plaster.
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Ok. Makes sense. Started to add a little calcium today (dissolved obviously). I will retest and add more tomorrow if needed. Thank you.
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Basic 3-way valve question

jark87
I’m wanting to restrict the flow of my 2 skimmers and increase the main drain flow in an attempt to keep my Betta SE Pro from getting stuck at the skimmer. I’m trying to figure out what position to put the valve handles in. Do I flip them almost completely, with the handles at something like 10 or 11 o’clock? If so, does that restrict water flow to the pump? Thanks!

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jark87
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Inconsistent/wrong salt level reading

J
Can you count the plates?

Register the equipment with Hayward and then file a warranty claim describing the issue and see what they can do to help.

However, you have to be 100% sure about the actual salinity.

I would want 3 good and consistent tests before I contacted Hayward.

I would want a reading from a K-1766 and from a good salt meter.
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Major discrepancy in salt level between test kit and meter

J
I have a feeling that I purchased a crappy meter, but thought I would ask your opinion anyway.

Here is the meter I purchased last year: Pool Salt Tester, Hofun High Accuracy Salt/EC/S.G/Temp 4 in 1 Salinity Tester for Saltwater Pool https://a.co/d/fTwtXNM

History:

We got our brand new pool set up kind of late in the season last year, so we only had it open for a couple of months. We opened it this past weekend, and over the winter I’ve done some research and found TFP, so I ordered a test kit instead of using the strips I used last year.

Pool was nice and clear when we took the cover off, and I am working on getting all of the parameters where they need to be. Last test results (at 11:25am EST today) are as follows: FC 2.5, CC 0.5, pH 8.2, TA 200, CYA 60, Salt 1600, Temp 73F.

I have since added muriatic acid to bring the pH down, some additional liquid chlorine to bring FC up, and stabilizer in a sock in the skimmer (I waited 30 minutes between the muriatic acid and the chlorine/stabilizer additions). I do not have the SWG running currently as the opening guide on TFP said to leave it off while you are getting things balanced at the start.

Using the test kit, my salt level was initially 1400 (on May 19) and is now 1600. The meter, however, is giving me readings of 2100-2200 each time. Like I said, I suspect the meter is just not good quality and I should rely on the test kit results - am I correct?

Thanks to everyone who makes this place possible! It has been an invaluable resource!
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A&A Tsunami Valve Eating Gears

proavia
Are you the original owner?
If so, you should have a lifetime warranty on those parts.

Contact A&A (now Pentair) and ask what might cause your gears to fail so quickly.
Something isn't right as the gearset and gears should last for years.
Time how quickly the IFCS changes from one zone to the next and report that here.

Post a few pics of your water valve as an assembled unit and with the top off.
You can also take measurements of the diameter of the lower housing gear from several different data points around its circumference to check if it's out of round.
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Inconsistent/wrong salt level reading

J
chlorinatorpro said:
Salt readings should have gone down in this case instead of up when switching cell type.
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I think that the amperage is over the T-3 limit and causing the issue with low salt readings.

I would have expected a High Salt warning, but it was showing low salt for some reason.

The amperage is consistent with a T-9 cell or the salinity is about double the amount that is being reported.
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Losing pressure

G
Hello,
I hope I can explain this problem correctly. What is happening is I’m losing suction randomly. So when I first turned on the pump, everything is good jets are blowing well and I have good suction. after about four hours or so the suction goes down and I will go to the pool housing and see air and I lose suction. I turned on backwash and it starts working again and repeats itself a few hours later. Any ideas? I hope I explained that correctly.
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