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New equipment plumbing with lots of tight 90 bends?

Jimrahbe
sporf said:
The difference is quantified and you can tell the difference on your electric bill.".
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S,

My IntelliFlo pump runs 24/7/365, mostly at 1200 RPM. It costs me less than $20 bucks a month to do this... And my pump is about 12 years old, and new pumps are much more energy efficient. How much could I possible save my replacing a few sharp 90 degree fittings???

See the following quote from the same thread by someone that "knows everything"... :mrgreen:

JamesW said:
The example shows a total system head loss difference of only 3.2 feet of head at 60 gpm.

That's a very minor difference.

In addition, a residential pool would rarely need to exceed 40 gpm.

At 40 gpm, the head loss difference drops to about 1.4 feet of head, which is insignificant.

Many pools can run at 20 gpm, which reduces the total head loss difference to about 0.35 feet.
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Thanks,

Jim R.
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New pump not pulling water

J
wireform said:
From what you wrote in #1 you did not follow that in the motor. You have white on the common and red on the LOW.
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The photo that I posted is exactly how the wires were connected. Perhaps I have the motor terminals wrong in my post but whatever white and red correspond to in the photo is how the live wires were connected.
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Plan to fix PVC threaded joint leak

setsailsoon
Two things that make union fittings hard to use and causes a lot of failures are dirty threads and using the wrong tool to tighten them. Large channel-lock type pliers can easily damage and over tighten the fitting. I've found easiest way to make these work well over and over again is:

  • Clean the threads inside and out with a wet rag until all the dirt is removed. WD 40 can help as a cleaner if there's oily dirt.
  • Clean the o-ring and make sure it's grove is pristine as well. Even small particles of dirt can cause a leak that won't stop 'till you clean it. No matter how tight you get it. Once you get it clean lube it with a small amount of soluble silicone lube. When you tighten if it's not lubed the o-ring can catch in the grove and become distorted. All surfaces need to slide.
  • Use the right tool. A belt wrench is perfect. Use one like this that has gripping tread on the inside of the belt:
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  • Don't over-tighten. Snug is all you need.
I keep one of these handy to the equipment pad.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris
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setsailsoon
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Water testing kit and reagent replacement for the UK market

H
Hi all,

The TFP website is the best resource for everything water chemistry, it helped me out around 17 years ago when my naive bromine routine started causing rashes, I then learnt how to run a chlorine tub which I kept running for 17 years with no issues all thanks to the guides and info here.

In a few weeks I'm getting a new Hotspring Relay tub with SWG, with a short learning curve I'm hoping to get the SWG to provide background sanitation with less maintenance input than was required before.

I've never used a proper water chemistry test kit as the Aquacheck strips appeared to serve their purpose adequately, however with SWG it's more critical to balance the water and keep it balanced and the strips probably won't cut it.

Now to the questions, the Taylor K-2006 is the gold standard, so what is the second best testing kit that would be available in the UK. The Taylor kit is available here only on Amazon UK for £125 (which I don't mind paying), ebay UK is consistently out of stock and the price on ebay if it comes from the US it extortionate due to delivery charges, there appears to be no other UK retailers that carry this kit. Also the replacement cost of reagents appears extortionate on ebay because of delivery from the US or the kit bottle sizing is not available, this does not bode well for the long term, so...

  1. How much longevity are homeowners getting from their Taylor reagents?
  2. Am I fussing too much and the reagents last longer than a year with careful handling and I should just buy it from Amazon UK and buy a new kit in 5 years when the first item runs out, which would make it economically viable in the UK?
  3. Has anyone in the UK had success ordering replacement Taylor reagents at reasonable cost and is in UK stock?
  4. Is anyone in the UK using another brand testing kit which is roughly equivalent to the K-2006 and has a supply of replacement reagents at reasonable cost and stock?
Thanks for the help TFP.
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New equipment plumbing with lots of tight 90 bends?

Newdude
sporf said:
switching from hard 90s to sweep 90s reduces head and increases efficiency -
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How many hard 90s are in your house plumbing to all the faucets. Yeah. :)

Sweeps have more flow, but it's never appreciable. They're noticable in the miles and miles getting municipal water to your house (when applicable) or for drains which are gravity fed. They built pools for decades with hard 90s and nobody ever knew better. Yours is a simple setup and will have oodles of flow either way.

I also kinda chuckle at human nature being what it is. People worry about the pad because it's right there in their face, but they may have 3X more underground that they can't see.
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PoolStored
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CYA not considered in Pool Math?

PoolStored
DougJack said:
One is what is the mechanism that lowers active chlorine as CYA ppm increases.
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Let's use HOCl instead of "active" chlorine to avoid confusion. At the same FC level, adding CYA will bind more of the FC. See red arrow:

1740569810624.png

DougJack said:
I see the recommended FC/CYA ratio increases with an SWG.
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The assumption being made with SWG is that the SWG is continually making chlorine, and the FC is fairly flat throughout the day...matching production to demand.

With liquid chlorine, you typically dose once a day. The higher FC target for LC is to consider that the FC may end up lower after a day without any chlorine being added. The higher target allows that daily daily demand/fluctuation.

For now, use the liquid chlorine chart for the hot tub without SWG. If you find your daily demand is low, you may be able to use the SWG chart. In either case, never get close to minimums. If you have to dose HIGHER than target, so you are WITHIN target range when you test, you should do that.
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Pool equipment overhaul cost.

pjt
DrZoidberg said:
But the rest leak where the pipe meets the valve . The joint is seeping and leaking
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If you didn't want a full scale replacement, Plast-aid would be low cost but very effective fix.

Glue Recommendation For Plastic Repair

Hello! So, my Hayward ColorLogic light floated out of the niche the other day. Surrounding and built into the light is an outer ring of clear plastic. The outer ring has a hole through which a screw passes to screw the light into the nitch. Covering all this is a decorative ring placed after the...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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New Hot Tub Owner - Taylor Test Kit

M
UPDATE:
Two days since the last test for FC (using DiChlor only) and erroneously chasing CYA values, first.

Things have calmed down since then, which feels like a huge win.

FC came out at 13 drops using a 10mL sample, so 6.5 ppm. That's after our first soak in over a week (two adults), and after draining / re-filling the tub and running the jets for a 20 minute cycle.

Combined chlorine: This took 1 drop to turn the solution from light pink to clear, so .5ppm

We're still awaiting the CYA reagent, so we'll hold tight for now.
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CYA not considered in Pool Math?

D
AUSpool said:
I do believe that was what we said back in the beginning. And the reaction or release times are very fast, less then a second.
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Yep - you’re right. I trapped myself by thinking that FC was only active chlorine. Two questions that I have. One is what is the mechanism that lowers active chlorine as CYA ppm increases. Another is a practical one. I see the recommended FC/CYA ratio increases with an SWG. Is this still the case with a hot tub? I have almost no sunlight to deal with, my UV and ozone are off, and I’ve been running about 30 ppm of CYA. Tnx.
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Programming a custom routine in Intellicenter to increase spa flow when opening/closing pool cover?

J
Hello! Brand new pool owner here just a couple days from adding water.

I went with Pentair equipment with Intellicenter and been trying to learn how it all works.

I have a pool with integrated 9x7 spa with the spillway at pool water level. I'm having an auto cover installed and was talking with the installer about how the cover will rub along the spa spillway every time it is opened and closed.

I'm planning to dial in my water level very very close to the spillway so that the cover is well supported, but I was thinking if I could run a routine to increase pump speed and divert all water to the spa, yet keep the suction in the pool, that I could create a bit of a water cushion over the spillway that would help lubricate the pool cover movement.

I was envisioning I could create a feature button that moves the valve and increases RPMs on the pump for say 2-3 minutes, then goes back to the prior settings. I would then simply run this every time I open and close the pool cover.

Is this possible and is there a resource I can refer to that is easy to follow? I was struggling a bit trying to understand the documentation I could find.
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Need help on how to use my new spa

J
Jimrahbe said:
Jerry,

You have to set it up as the System Administrator..

When it is working, the local system box will show the IP address.. It should be highlighted.. if not select it..

Also, for me anyway, I never had to use a password, because it was all local.. When I used remote (cell phone) I had to us a password.

I am not much of a computer guy.. it just always worked for me and I set it up myself... :scratch:

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Looks like run as system admin is the solution! Thanks! I just realized that I had this app previously (when the pool was just built), and used it to create the "Pool High" circuit, but I have no idea what I was doing...

Below is the circuits screenshot.

Any comment/suggestions on how to configure? Or if there is any documentation/tutorial that I can read/watch? Thanks!

I think pump 1 is for spa, and pump 2 is for pool, but I am not sure...
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IntelliConnect and Pentair Pool app not controlling IntelliPro pump properly

ajw22
Talk to Pentair Support about the firmware versions in your IntelliPro and IntelliConnect…

Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

A member had this Software Combination that was causing constant issues:
  • IntelliFlo3:
    • Controller Software Version: 1.05.000
    • IoT Software Version: 0.98
  • IntelliConnect:
    • Controller Software Version: 1.6.2.5
    • IoT Software Version: 5.72
Pentair Support updated his software over the internet to:
  • IntelliFlo3:
    • Controller Software Version: 1.02.000
    • IoT Software Version: 1.2
  • IntelliConnect:
    • Controller Software Version: 1.6.3.3
    • IoT Software Version: 5.72
Appreciate hearing what you learn.
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Light's Chrome Finish Lost

J
Current moving through wires near the pool will create electromagnetic fields that can induce current in nearby conductors.

There might be zinc, magnesium, aluminum etc. somewhere that can push electrons to everything that is electrically connected to the light.

Metals like zinc are anodes and they are eager to lose electrons like the negative terminal of a battery.

These electrons are received by the copper and the copper is converted from ions to elemental metal.

Basically, the light has an excess of electrons with enough voltage to reduce copper ions into copper metal as the copper ions make contact with the light.
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