Jim, I opened the spa return last night and shut everything down. Woke up this morning and the spa was the same level and did not drain down at all...woohooo! So it appears the culprit was BOTH a bad suction diverter valve and bad intake diverter valve (remember...that was a new check valve I had installed recently).

Brian.O1484 said:

So that was my main thought with the foam with this style pool. I know it wont do for insulation it was more for that tiny bit of cushion and more importantly (for my sake) I wouldn't be able to the corrugation or gaps in the aluminum panels lol.

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It may be helpful for that or it may be a wash. Just one of those things. If its an expense/project you don’t mind taking on it won’t hurt but it just may not help like you’re hoping. On the videos they make it look super easy of course. Maybe its their spray adhesive? Pool warehouse has some good install videos - here’s a wall foam one.
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Buy everything from eBay.

Easy and everyone has one! Take a patio umbrella stand , remove the fastener bolt and set you cartridge over the stand. Use a pressure washer with a medium nozzle, start at top, work around and down. Cartridge rotates easily, minimal “ back breaking bending over” and you don’t get covered in grime! 10- 15 minutes per cartridge and you’re done! Been doing this for several years it really helps!

You got a pool !!!

JoeSelf said:

You can also use effects of adding for your doses of dichlor. I do this on a fresh fill and just use dichlor as my sanitizer adding what effects of adding says for my dose of dichlor to the CYA each time I add more dicolor. I change the cya level each time I had dichlor, as a separate test added after the dose.

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I do it this way too

Welcome aboard TFP! There are lots of ways to make this happen. We need a little more info:

• Do you want to run the heater 24/7 or only certain times of the day or at random times?
• What are you using to schedule right now? A simple timer? The pump timer? Or some kind of automation?
• What is the pump model #

If you don't have any separate automation system you can likely use a digital input on the pump that takes a signal from the heater "call for heat" signal but that requires you get inside its wiring. If you don't feel comfortable with this you should not attempt it (240v wiring can kill you!). In that case you might be able to find a qualified tech to do it for you. But most of them will just want to sell you an automation system that costs thousands of dollars.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

@phonedave I just spit out out my coffee reading your story
I had the same “9pm feature” except my dad didn’t need to manually disconnect anything as fear of losing my coveted phone was sufficient!
We use screentime and content restrictions w/ our kids and they don’t attempt to disable it. They understand & mostly appreciate why they are there & why we waited for certain things. They saw their friends become slaves to devices/social media drama and don’t want to be like that.
They can ask for more time for a certain app or a new app or whatever and it is generally a very speedy process to make changes. I have done so with my kid in an entirely different time zone from me. My daughter is 18 now but still in high school so most restrictions are removed except a decent but later bedtime and ask to buy/purchase approval because its tied to my payment form and she said to leave it so she doesn’t accidentally purchase something while playing a game. I made the mistake of putting her birthday as younger for anonymity & thinking it wouldn’t matter & now I can’t change it!
They both have somewhat low high speed data plans and their devices are kicked offline at a certain hour by our modem. The modem thing actually happened because of visiting children who didn’t respond to my “let’s get some rest now” gentle suggestions (even though everyone else was asleep) I guess they were allowed to stay up all night at home & do whatever. This has actually happened multiple times with several different kids. I believe its an epidemic.
At my house we have fun but we also sleep! I am locking it down lol

I had the TF100 and while entirely functional, it was a mess and frustrating always hunting for bottles because it didn't all fit in a nice way. I appreciate the organization of the TFpro each and every time I open it. Ya did good.

Refills go on sale each March for mid $40s, so the kit is a one time investment for all the parts and much easier to swallow year over year.

Its there now.

entered the water, This is a common problem with AIPER. If you are under warranty, please replace it as soon as possible

I Don't suggest both, But if you have to choose one from Wybot c1 and Scuba S1, I will choose Aiper, Although Aiper is known as put a lot of cost on marketing, and has more brand premium, But Aiper has a stronger suction about 4000+GPH but Wybot has only around 2600 GPH. That is why wybot " wheelie", because the suction power is not enough.

And Aiper and Wybot is not the same company, WYBOT ODM for Aiper at the begining, But Aiper is not satisfied with Wybot's cheap workmanship and high ODM profits, and has started producing robots on its own.
Therefore, now they are completely two companies.
If you have a beautiful backyard, I still recommend Aiper.
Because his workmanship is much more exquisite compared to Wybot.
Of course, as a practitioner in the industry, I wouldn't even choose when making my own purchases.
I don't want to pay for the beautiful AIPER advertisement, nor do I want to buy the cheap workmanship and creaking lids of Wybot.
There is another product with a similar price to theirs.
But the battery capacity and suction power are twice as high as theirs, and there is a two-layer filtration system.
You should know that the two-layer filtering system is only equipped on robots priced above $800

This valve is closed


Can you provide some more pictures with some wider pictures of your pad...it is not clear what this is from the limited view...

hchowell said:

Ah okay. I just purchased the TFPro Thank you!!

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You won't regret it.

Jandy does not support Internet sales or DIY..

Warranty Policy​

Jandy pool equipment is sold exclusively through a nationwide network of qualified pool professionals with the expertise and ability to help pool owners make the best equipment decisions for their individual pool needs. Therefore, we do not provide a Manufacturer’s Warranty on Jandy equipment purchased online through any internet retailer.

You need to directly buy most Jandy equipment from grey market sellers or where they are small enough to stay below Jandys radar.

If Marina sells it, then get it there.

I might start a new separate thread on this directly related question but might as well kick it off here as it seems I'm suddenly in a serious time crunch.

I'm currently out of town and heard from my better half today that the Aqualink system seems to have forgotten it's time schedule. When set to Auto, it does not automatically power the pump on. In Service mode the pump can still be turned on.
As background, I set it to Service mode late last week as the Atlanta area was again going well under freezing and we already had one break this winter (possibly two). The system was running during the day and only doing freeze protect at night. At 14 degrees, that was evidently not enough.
We got past the hard freeze but now Auto seems to not do anything. With no control panel we're kind of stuck so time to pull the trigger.

The question - What is the story with buying the IQ30-RS kit online?
Most places seem to be carrying it for around $1200-$1400 but a lot of what I think are the 'more reputable' places imply or specifically say the kit is not available to purchase on-line due to manufacture restriction. For example, the InYo site states: "PER THE MANUFACTURER: THIS ITEM IS NOT AVAILABLE FOR SALE ONLINE"

There are a few places that list it for less, $1050-$1100 and while they will sell it, two of the three also seem to imply that the item is only for "pro" pool service purchase.
I've not called yet but marina pool spa and patio is seems to have it for $1000...

Thanks!

Option said:

So 9a already runs to the controller for the stenner pump. Should I used that to power the board instead and if so, can I power the stenner with a piggyback from the pump relay?

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You can power the Stenner and the panel.

Connect the panel wire to the LINE side of the Stenner relay to pickoff the power from the same CB.

PoolGate said:

For the OneTouch, try running a new cable direct from your panel short maybe 10 feet to see if it is the cable or the OneTouch. It can use any alarm system 4 wire cable.

Also if you need more RS-485 connections you can get the multiplexor to expand capacity.

Jandy AquaLink RS Multiplex Board - 6584 - INYOPools.com

6584 - Jandy AquaLink RS Multiplex Board

www.inyopools.com

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Yes thanks... Already tried a short cable with no difference

PoolStored said:

That is correct. Should raise your FC to 6 and add 3 to your CYA.

Drop is due to organics in the pool from your dip.

Are you using the paid version of Pool Math? ($8/ YEAR) Allows you to save and track your testing and additions. Really helps to see how your tub behaves.

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Cheers. Just upgraded on the app... feels like a must-have tool.

PoolStored said:

I cannot see your pool math logs.

Make sure you are using the same username/login as TFP.

Go to the upper right gear.

Scroll down, and enable sharing with TFP, then we can see your logs and help.

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It should show up now...

ajw22 said:

You or an electrician can tap in to the non-GFCI side of 9A and power your panel from that CB.

Breaker 6/7 should be changed to GFCI for your pumps.

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Awesome, thank you!

So 9a already runs to the controller for the stenner pump. Should I used that to power the board instead and if so, can I power the stenner with a piggyback from the pump relay?