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Hayward Omnilogic Temperature Not Changing

D
ajw22 said:
Test the sensors using a multimeter as described in Temperature Sensors - Further Reading

Tell me what resistance each sensor tests at.
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Okay,
Pool probe reads right at 11,900 (and I used my apple watch to read the water temp and it shows 68 degs), and the air probe was at 14,000 and it is 63 degs outside. If I am reading the chart correctly it looks like the probes are good, which then leads me down a rabbit hole of probably the actual omnilogic itself?
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Dolphin Active 30 only runs backward. Anybody experience this?

Lanzz
I had a similar issue with my Dolphin E30. I gave up throwing parts at it and trying to fix it. It was going into its 4th season and we keep it in the water 24x7, so I am guessing it was just time for a new one. The only part left to replace was the motor assembly, but it did not seem wise to spend over $300 for that part given the age of the unit. Dolphin Quantum arrives today...
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Different size spa jet fittings

R
So, the venturi is not working but you have water flow?
Yes, one jet can flood the venturi (air) lines.
The vacuum created on the air line does not care where it gets pressure relief from, so if it has an open port in water it will pull from there too. However that usually results in some air in some jets. To completely kill the venturi on a line requires pressurization of the venturi, which can be done by blocking, improperly installing, or using the wrong internal (barrel) in one jet on the line.
Try removing the jet internal in question. This should cause some air to mix at some of the jets. If so, get the right internal.
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Need Help with Stubborn Mustard Algae

D
Hi, all. I am still having issues with Mustard Algae and have been unable to complete the SLAM and can't pass the OCLT. I am really stumped, and I am not sure what to do next.

Here are my numbers:
  • FC: 18 (I am testing multiple times a day and following the Chlorine/CYA chart; I have been keeping it on the higher side because the recommended level is not working)
  • CC: .5 (I am never over .5 and for some tests it is 0)
  • pH: 7.5
  • CYA: 40 (It had dropped to 30 over the last week so I added a small amount and am just under 40 when I test)
Here is what I'm doing:
  • Brushing the ENTIRE pool 3+ times a day. I have removed the ladder and pool light. I brush inside skimmers, returns, and stairs.
  • Vacuuming as frequently as needed to remove debris, but there isn't much lately
  • I keep leaves out of the pool and check skimmers multiple times a day
The pool is 20x40, rectangular and crystal clear and looks great unless you happen to look at the seams in the liner or one specific corner in the shallow end. It is slimy and not gritty/grainy. When it was worse, it did puff up when you brushed it, but it is very minimal now, so it no longer puffs up. I am 100% certain that it is not pollen or regular debris. And, it continues to grow only in the exact same spots. I am trying to brush those spots rigorously, but it's really hard to get at the seams, especially when the water is only 50 degrees and I can't get in. I brush in multiple directions and go back and forth over it several times in a row.

I have not added any other chemicals/algaecides and only follow TFP. I have the TFP-100 Salt kit and have been using it for almost 4 years, so I feel decently comfortable that I'm testing correctly. I had originally turned off the SWG, but honestly, this has gone on for so long that I just can't afford to only use liquid chlorine any longer. I turned the SWG back on about a week ago to help me keep the chlorine levels up but I'm supplementing with liquid chlorine to keep it steady. I also backwash the filter regularly and the sand was replaced in late summer last year, so it should be in good condition.

I do not have a waterfall or water feature. I brush the cover of the main drains, but I can't remove them and brush inside because the water is too cold. I know that it's possible that mustard algae could be inside the main drains, but I'm leaning away from this simply because the biggest problem areas are in the shallow end, almost 40 feet away. Perhaps that doesn't matter, but that's been my logic so far.

I'm attaching pictures of two seams where it continues to accumulate and the corner in the shallow end where it appears semi-regularly. These pictures were taken yesterday morning when the FC was even a bit higher at 20.5, and I have been careful to never let the FC drop, so I am completely confused.

Please help! I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or what I'm missing. Thank you!
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Picking a vinyl liner. Liner stock questions?

J
Newdude said:
So I've had one of each liner. My white material liner fared really well with moderate shade. My blue material liner is fading fast in a wide open yard. Time will tell how long the pattern lasts, but at least I should theoretically still have a blue pool when the ink is gone.

If your yard has some shade to slow down the harsh southern UV, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
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I have very little shade. Maybe I should go with the Terrazzo Caribbean due to its printed on blue.
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Why do the relays(?) in my intellicenter panel click 6 times when the lights schedule comes on?

J
Saving a Color Mode or Fixed Color:

When power is switched off to the IntelliBrite color lights, the last color show mode or fixed color will be saved.

The next time the light is powered on, the previously saved color show mode or fixed color will be displayed.

For example, while in “Party Mode” switch the light off. Wait more than 10 seconds, switch the light back on to resume “Party Mode.”

Using the IntelliBrite Controller (sold separately, P/N 600054), IntelliBrite 5G color pool/spa lights can all be synchronized so that individual or multiple IntelliBrite lights all lights can be switched on and off together

1740928471227.png

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Warming profile for a closed versus open pool (and when should I open)?

Newdude
Sampo said:
So I'm still in search of a similar "rule of thumb" to determine pool temps for covered versus uncovered setups.
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My spitball guess is to average the recent highs/lows and add 5 degrees afterwards for the cover. Obviously 2 really warm or cold days on days 4 and 5 might swing the observed temperature versus the guess.

I've done a bunch of guess calcs with 7 days instead of 5 and it didn't seem to matter much.

Also recognize the water stratifies and the top water will be several degrees more than the bottom.
Sampo said:
And perhaps the answer to my original question is just "open as soon as possible! (when safe from deep freezes)".
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I like to look at it and want it back ASAP.
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Screenlogic App/Interface not connected by to Antenna

F
Had to reset 2 of my Orbi satellites all with excellent connections but can't get my Screenlogic Wireless adapter to connect to the outdoor antenna now.

I reset the interface brick using a paper clip , powered off the wireless adapter,etc. The interface brick has Ethernet cable to the Satellite Orbi and connection is good.

When I open the Screenlogic app, it connects to the interface but there is no data.

The outside Antenna has a slow blinking green light.

The equipment is in the same place as it's always been so not sure what the issue is.

Update 1hour later: I moved the wireless dongle out of the cabinet it was sitting in and now it connected. I did notice however the green wire looks too have snapped off but I feel like it was always like that. PXL_20250302_152404459.jpg
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Warming profile for a closed versus open pool (and when should I open)?

Sampo
Newdude said:
Welcome back, indeed. :cheers:
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For sure! Good to see you my TFP friend! We made it through the winter!


Newdude said:
The pool is pretty much the average of the last 4 or 5 days high and low temperatures.
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I've read this before -- but I assume this must be true only for the "baseline" of an uncovered pool? It doesn't feel to have been correct for my covered pool this frigid January (though admittedly I don't have detailed logs to be sure... maybe a project for next year?). Besides, if covered and uncovered pools both had identical temps that were determined exclusively by 5 days of air temperatures, then that would imply that covering is irrelevant and that solar covers also wouldn't work (whereas all covers clearly help with the big share of evaporation, as you note). So I'm still in search of a similar "rule of thumb" to determine pool temps for covered versus uncovered setups.


Newdude said:
I check the long range forcast and open right after the last freezing low. It could always go sideways 3 weeks later and be cold again, but it won't be stoopid cold, or for very long, so running the pump for a few days straight is fine to get by.
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and
wireform said:
I'd say when you're more or less sure the freezing temps are over you can do a soft opening and get the pump to move water getting a good mix.
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Yup, I think that's what I'll do in practice. And perhaps the answer to my original question is just "open as soon as possible! (when safe from deep freezes)".
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What did you do to your pool today?

oledan
Opened up the cover today (just the flip of a switch) and ran my Lydsto hand held vacuum on the tanning ledge and steps & threw the Aiper scuba pro in the deeper in. I plan to do this weekly as there always seems to be a bit of dirt on the edges that find its way in. Also added a gallon of last years chlorine to gid rid of it and also to maintain my SLAM level - the Scuba Pro mixed it in for me! Tested it after and it tested 22ppm FC:). I admit I love to fiddle with my pool, and it has been a long winter.

Today plan to put together two additional lounge chairs like those pictured in my avatar to give me a set of four. It's currently 23dg here but the sun is shining and there is no wind(y)

***UPDATE***
Lounge chair build completed now I have a complete set of four! After the work was done I opened cover and enjoyed a cigar my non-circulating pool along with a Moscow Mule beverage. That's a future firepit you in front still under construction.
What an enjoyable day!

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Concerns About Ahh-some Products, BACs, and Antibiotic Resistance in Hot Tub Maintenance

JoyfulNoise
Quaternary ammonium compounds (QACs) have rarely been shown to cause antibiotic resistance in real world settings. There’s certainly lots of lab studies that show how a bacteria or virus can develop resistance to the biocidal activity of QAC’s but what happens in a Petri dish rarely reflects reality in everyday use. This study provides a good meta analysis of QAC resistance -

Quaternary ammonium disinfectants and antiseptics: tolerance, resistance and potential impact on antibiotic resistance - PMC

Due to the substantial increase in the use of disinfectants containing quaternary ammonion compounds (QACs) in healthcare and community settings during the COVID-19 pandemic, there is increased concern that heavy use might cause bacteria to develop ...
pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

It should be noted that the above article states that Psuedomonas is known to have higher levels of resistance to QAC compounds than other bacteria due to innate properties of the bacteria’s structure and biochemistry.

One general comment to highlight from this thread is that Ahhsome is NOT intended to be a hot tub sanitizer. Its use in hot tubs is mainly for its ability to breakdown biofilms created by bacterial colonies as well as act as a surfactant that lifts films off plumbing surfaces. It also acts as a bulk water clarifier to help the filter capture particulates. The sanitizing chemical in any hot tub should be either bromine or chlorine and it should be kept at a level that is sufficient to produce an appropriate kill rate. Chlorine is a very effective, broad spectrum and fast sanitizer that kills a wide variety of bacteria, viruses, and molds/algae/fungi. When used properly, it is effective and safe and has almost never been shown to induce biological resistance. Everything else used in a hot tub should be merely considered an adjunct chemical to improve water quality.
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Need Advice! Help!

B
Dawnadair said:
Hello, I was doing good but failing miserably now. I have a Pentair Intelliflo VSP3. Our pool guy at the time put it in after the hurricane. I also have a Hayward filter and my pool is 10 x24 and 5 feet deep. I believe the gallons came out to 10,300. We lost power awhile back and the settings have not been right since, sometimes close but not right. I also have the Pentair app to control my pool. However the app runs with RPM not GPM which I have. Also has speed control. I have done a lot of research but still having adjustment issues. I contacted Pentair the first time the setting advice was pretty good. Power out again, second time the advice was to set only the speed to 100 and he said not to do anything with the GPM? that it would set itself. Well, it sets off the system alert, most all information I find people are talking about RPM not GPM and Im confused what SWG means? Salt water maybe which I don't have. I have a disabled veteran husband that can't figure it out and trying you wisdom before I have to spend money we really don't have so any help will be very appreciated. I would also like to add when it was put in 1 2023 the water in the jets would come out very strong with bubbling force and now hardly don;t know what that could mean. Thank you in advance.

1. What should GPM flow settings be?
2. Speed Settings?
3. Should I run GPM and Set Speed to 0? or vice versa?
4. Could main drain be an issue? not getting settings right is me fighting a green pool more then I should. I got the chemicals just need to get settings right
5. I have lubed the gasket on the filter and the basket on the pump
6.Pictures are the handles on the PVC pipes in line correctly? for main drain?

View attachment 630392View attachment 630393View attachment 630394
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Hi there, the SWG acronym is for a salt water chlorinator. If you don’t have one, you can ignore that.

The GPM is not a useful measurement for what you need. You can set your pump speed to as slow as possible in RPM and still do the things you need, like skimming, heating the pool, etc. different equipment has different flow requirements and you will find it easier to use RPM. The slower the pump speed you can get away with, the more money you save on electricity.
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Chemical Help

Newdude
Or alage is chewing through whatever FC the cell is making.

Step 1 with low production is always an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. (SWG off).

Step two is an overnight *gain* test.


If you're not losing FC to algae, and the cell is producing as it should, then we raise the CYA. (Which is borderline at the moment).

A great many of us realize we need more CYA when the cell suddenly can't keep up. But your cell is real old too, so that could always be it as well. Meh. Start testing and we can start ruling things out.
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Hacking IntellipH to work in cold water

JoyfulNoise
Typically if you’re going to use a component in an outdoor environment where changes in temperature and humidity run to the extremes, it has to be very robust so I would agree with your assessment that the Dollar-Store switch off Amazon probably was never going to last. The slide-on spade connectors will do fine in my opinion. Nice rework.
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Chemical Help

S
Never run the SWCG when the pump isn't moving water. It can accumulate hydrogen gas, and a mini-Hindenberg you do not want. You may be being saved by the flow sensor in the SWCG, that shuts it off if there is no flow, but that is not a primary control to count on.

Something is not working. Running 18 hrs, your SWCG should be raising the Cl by 12 ppm a day. Your last FC reading was 2.5. With the enclosure, and the sun amounts this time of year, no way are you burning through 10 ppm per day...(not even due to the Lab acting like a giant sponge and taking a lot of water out of the pool a bazillion times a day!)
Maybe the cell needs cleaning (avoid acid if you can), or maybe it is end of life....
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I'm trying to figure out how to build a DIY solar-powered recirculating spa heater for my 500-gallon spa

B
Gary Davis said:
I'm trying to figure out how to build a Rube Goldberg inexpensive but functional DIY solar-powered recirculating spa heater for my 500-gallon spa.

My idea is to re-circulate the spa water through a few hundred feet of black rubber 5/8th's diameter garden hose (which I already own) for about six hours a day, using a 12VDC RV water pump (which I already own), a solar panel, and a battery, just to raise the temperature a bit (no, I don't know how much it will raise it yet - that's a huge unknown).

I'm trying to source parts off Amazon to get the base specifications, so that I can at least run some of the easy math (the harder math being the temperature variation).

Starting with the easy math, the volume of each hundred feet of a 5/8ths hose I think is about ~1-1/2 gallons (if I did my geometry right assuming a radius of 0.3125 inches and pi r squared times length for the volume of a cylinder for a volume of 368.14 cubic inches at 231 cubic inches per gallon) so for 200 feet of hose, I'll have about ~3 gallons of water inside the black rubber hose heating up at any given moment with the hose lying on the concrete deck on the perimeter surrounding the pool.

The pump specs say it has a max flow of 6.5 gallons per minute, but I'm thinking, with all the friction and head loss, it'll probably be closer to ~5 GPM. I'm not really sure if that's a good guess though. At 5 GPM, it'd take about 100 minutes, which is an hour and 40 minutes, to circulate all the water. That means I'd get about 3.6 theoretical turnovers in six hours (but that assumes 100% mixing, which won't happen). I'm wondering, do you think 3.6 theoretical turnovers is enough to actually raise the spa's temperature?

While the pump maximum can be as high as 18-1/2 amps, the pump says it is rated at 12VDC and 5 amps, which means it uses 60 watts. Running it for six hours, that's 360 watt-hours, and that's what the solar panel has to replace. I realize a charger has to be greater than the voltage, and I realize 12 Volts is nominal (e.g., a car battery might be 13.4 volts nominally), but for now, I'll keep the math simple at 12VDC, especially since Amazon seems to have plenty of 12VDC solar panels for battery chargers, so I'm looking for a 12VDC solar panel, where I'm thinking a 100W panel might work. I'd have to buy the solar panel as the only panels I have are about 5 watts to 8 watts at 5VDC (for solar outdoor cameras) which I think may be too small.

I know that solar panel won't produce 100 watts all day, but maybe during those peak sun hours around the middle of the day it produces that rated 100 Watts?
Assuming that, if I divide the 360 watt-hours by, say, 5 peak sun hours, that's 72 watts, so I'm thinking a 100W panel should be enough.
But I don't really know.

Then there's the battery, which is the expensive part. I have old car batteries, so maybe I can use them to keep the costs down.
But if I have to buy a battery, I think I'd probably maybe want to use a deep-cycle marine battery, and I know I shouldn't discharge any battery past 50%.

The pump needs 30 amp-hours a day, so I'm thinking I need a 60 amp-hour battery.
But with cloudy days and battery aging, maybe I should add a 25% buffer, which means I'd need around 75 amp-hours?
Given that, would a 75 or 100 amp-hour battery like this one, make sense?

Putting it all together, the hose is about a dollar a foot, the battery is about $210, the pump is around $100, the solar panel is about $40.

Since I already have the hose & pump, the incremental cost would be about $250, which seems like a lot for this kind of project. where the fun is in being successful, not in what it looks like. But right now it's all hypothetical.

If I can power it with an old car battery, that would be a bonus on costs. (I could even charge it at night on a 120VAC battery charger, but that's defeating some of the purpose.)

I'm just trying to figure out from someone who has the experience whether my calculations are reasonable, if 3.6 turnovers will actually heat the water, by how much, and if there's a better or less expensive way to do this.

I'd really appreciate any advice from someone who's done something like this before.
Click to expand...
You need to calculate your heat loss rate as well. If you expect to heat the water, the heat you put in to the water needs to be greater than the rate of heat loss.
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Anyone using a solar powered skimmer?

Katodude
These things have come along way in the last few years. The current Betta’s are turning out to be very reliable. While my Betta 2 required frequent repairs, my Betta SE and Betta SE Plus have both been running for a year with no issues.

Thats pretty good for a robot that costs in the $350 range. As always I recommend getting the longest warranty possible.

While we are talking about warranty their service is excellent. They ship you a refurbished on and you ship you old one back. They pay for all the shipping as part of the extended warranty purchase.
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