Welcome to TFP.

It looks to me like the UltraTemp HXI HP is a white labeled product specifically for the Australia and New Zealand markets. Pentair is probably not manufacturing it and puts their brand on it, so it does not have Pentair proprietary RS-485 support in it.

Do you have any environmental or energy regulations requiring an inverter heat pump?

Success!!! Suggestion #2 was the magic bullet. Just log out and back in; what a Dufus I can be sometimes. Thanks for coming to my rescue; it's appreciated!

Gary

Welcome to TFP!!! Glad you are here!

Might review the forum rules that includes a section on Guidelines for Those in the Industry...

linuxman51 said:

How does one do this 'upgrade' .. does it prompt you when you're checking out? or is there a code one needs to put in?

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With your pool size, go to this page


and choose this button

Right on the page for any model at discount salt pool it asks if you want to upgrade to the next one for $10.

Newdude said:

Hey M and Welcome !!!

Are you going to DIY ? Circupool is hard to beat. They claim the most production for the longest time, both likely inflated but at worst they are as good as anyone else, and usually cheaper.

There's a forever sale where you buy the lower model and 'upgrade it' for $10 to the one you wanted. We aim for 2X here so you only need to run it about 12 hours a day in the peak season. Less runtime means longer life and less pump electricity. They have 55k and 60k models that are close enough for you. (I like the RJ60+) The daily UV demand is much friendlier in PA than it is in TX, so you have that going for you when you don't quite hit the 2X.

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How does one do this 'upgrade' .. does it prompt you when you're checking out? or is there a code one needs to put in?
thanks!

If that does not work -- then email [email protected] for assistance.

Maldravus said:

I have ordered a Taylor k-2006

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I'd recommend getting a SpeedStir of other type of stirring device.

The word INLET needs to be on the port closest to the pump.
Remove the handle, carefully unscrew the lid, remove lid and re-align INLET to the pump port.
Do NOT use a power driver to remove or replace the screws - manual screwdriver only.

Use care removing the lid as there is an o-ring that seals the lid to the body.
Be sure to lube the O-ring before securing the lid.

BWnDallas said:

Since my FC is above the recommended range slightly should I dial back the "percentage" setting on my Aquarite panel. Is that the recommended step to take?

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Yes. Or reduce the amount of time the pump runs. Do you have Pool Math? Will help you figure out run time and % output. Link-->>PoolMath

BWnDallas said:

Do I need to keep fighting the pH battle and trying to lower TA by adding all this acid. I am now at 2.33 gallons added since 3/6.

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Test your fill water for TA. Likely high. You have two choices. Just manage pH and ignore TA, but with high TA, you will likely be adding acid frequently. The other choice is this...

BWnDallas said:

Do I need to let my test water get to room temp before I run my pH test? I think I read that on here somewhere.

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Taylor Technologies recommends sample temperatures be between 50-90℉. If lower that 50, let it warm up. The only test you need to warm to 70+ is CYA.

Aviva requires CH to be between 150 and 200 and to be tested by a pool company every 6 months in order to maintain the pool shell warranty. So hopefully it will drop some and then I will not worry about it too much. No tile line and no heater.

Since my FC is above the recommended range slightly should I dial back the "percentage" setting on my Aquarite panel. Is that the recommended step to take?

Do I need to keep fighting the pH battle and trying to lower TA by adding all this acid. I am now at 2.33 gallons added since 3/6.

Do I need to let my test water get to room temp before I run my pH test? I think I read that on here somewhere.

Mdragger88 said:

I am contemplating coating my cover with flex seal (rolling it on) bad idea?

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900 sq ft of coating would cost more than the cover.

Then you'd have to pray that when it eventually came off, it did so in easy to grab sheets.

If you have a winter cover that might suffice with an added fireproof tarp on top near the work area to prevent anything hot from penetrating. My husband is welder so we have several of these.
If you go the plywood & boards route get the thin underlayment stuff so its not too heavy on the top rails.

I debated posting a response but the amount of misinformation made my brain hurt so here goes

Dave95602 said:

Lots of things to consider when deciding whether PV solar is right for your situation, I recommend you do that research on PV solar forums not pool forums .

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100%

PoolBrews said:

Most solar systems are in excess of $20K. The ROI is in excess of 25 year

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This is very area dependant. We were early adopters (so we paid about double after 50% rebate and tax credits what a comparable system would cost today) and installed our pv system in 2005. Our savings hit equal to install cost between year 11-12. Today in CA due to the shift to net metering 3, it is estimated at about the same 12yrs due to the almost requirement to install a battery storage sysrem

PoolBrews said:

You can have equipment fail, damage from a storm

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Anything electrical can fail but this doesn't stop it's install. Because of the capital outlay for pv solar the electronics and panels are warrantied a min of 10yrs. Storm damage is typically covered by homeowners insurance just like most other storm damage subject to your deductible.
In our case at year 16 we had to replace 1 inverter at a cost of ~1700. It could have been done for ~1200 but I opted to install a larger inverter so as to support additional production from several panel replacements (our panels are 167 watt, while a modern panel of the same size will produce 400 watts) utilizing the same racking.

PoolBrews said:

need the roof replaced

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This is true for a roof mount system which is why a legitimate solar contractor will not install on a roof with less than 20yrs of remaining economic life. In additional they will warranty any penetrations for a minimum of 10yrs. If you have the room, this is completely mitigated by a ground mount system. Our system was ground mounted due to the shape/pitch/orientation of our roof. At install the ground mount racking added less than 10% to our system cost.

PoolBrews said:

And having solar will not increase your resale value

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The appraisal standards of fhfa who set guidelines for fnma, fhlmc, fha and va all assign a value to Owned solar panels of ~10,000 in home value for every ~$1000 in expected annual power production

PoolBrews said:

Panels lose 10-20% of their effectiveness in the first two years of use

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All tier 1 panel manufacturers warranty a degradation rate of no more than 10% over the first 10yrs . Solar panels typically experience a gradual decline in power output, with an average annual loss of around 0.5% to 0.8% per year

PoolBrews said:

If you need your roof replaced, you'll have to pay to have the solar panels removed, and then pay to have them replaced. Some roofers will offer this service at a fee, but many won't.

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This is true

PoolBrews said:

The power has to be fed into your power company's grid - it doesn't go directly to your home. You sell power to them, then buy it back to use it.

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You use the power your panels produce as it is being produced- any excess production is fed back into the grid and effectively sold to the power company to be sold back to you in the evening when the panels are no longer producing. This too can be mitigated by the installation of a power wall which had fallen significantly in price over the years.

PoolBrews said:

There is usually a fee to belong to a co-op power company. In my case it's about $30/month or $1/day.

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This is true and very area specific. There is generally a min monthly fee to be connected to the grid which must be considered in your roi calculation.

cj133 said:

I maintained my fc until I closed, and literally the day I shut the pump down the top of the pool froze, which is typical for me. I try to hold out as long as I can. But, I'm fairly certain my level was fairly low, like 4-5ppm. That was my first mistake.

What I haven't figured out is how I'm supposed to add bleach while the top is frozen. There's days where I get it to thaw so I can fit a finger between the liner and ice, but the ice was a good 8"+ thick. Would it be acceptable to pour bleach down that crack and just hope for it to mix on it's own over time?

Of course, as it started to thaw over the past week or two I could've done much better. I'd glance out and see ice on it, so I kept ignoring it, assuming the water was plenty cold. That almost bit me real good I guess.

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If you’re closing at 4/5 ppm that won’t last long without a cover. Heck, that won’t last long even with a cover.
Raise to slam before turning every thing off. Some people also throw in a floater but i worry about it cracking and dropping the tabs or getting stuck somewhere (you could tether it).
If the water is frozen there’s not much you can do. You should only add liquid chlorine if you’re able to mix the water (with a brush or pump)
You shouldn’t disturb ice in a pool it could rip the liner.

Email [email protected] with your issues.

Mdragger88 said:

The deal is that there’s simply not enough chlorine. As Matt mentioned, cold slows algae growth but it doesn’t stop it completely.
Using a cover prevents the chlorine you add at closing from being consumed by the sun and also debris whilst the pool is asleep for the winter. In lieu of a cover for protection you may need to consider “closing” at slam level if you aren’t already & reupping/checking that periodically throughout the closed period. Those with mesh type covers often find the need to also use polyquat as insurance against low fc conditions for a short period which may or may not be of some benefit to you.
I am in a bit of a different climate but I fully close around Halloween/early November at slam level with a solid tarp style cover and check my fc around Christmas before the pool freezes as we get crazy heat waves and then check again in late feb after things thaw. I have never needed to add fc but I am always prepared to do so. I generally do a soft open (running the pool with the cover on) in late march & don’t uncover a for few weeks- a month later.

Click to expand...

I maintained my fc until I closed, and literally the day I shut the pump down the top of the pool froze, which is typical for me. I try to hold out as long as I can. But, I'm fairly certain my level was fairly low, like 4-5ppm. That was my first mistake.

What I haven't figured out is how I'm supposed to add bleach while the top is frozen. There's days where I get it to thaw so I can fit a finger between the liner and ice, but the ice was a good 8"+ thick. Would it be acceptable to pour bleach down that crack and just hope for it to mix on it's own over time?

Of course, as it started to thaw over the past week or two I could've done much better. I'd glance out and see ice on it, so I kept ignoring it, assuming the water was plenty cold. That almost bit me real good I guess.

May need to log out then back in.
Also check via the appstore that the app is updated. You kinda have to click on it like you’re going to buy it again in iOS. Mine never shows the updates in the “my apps” part.
Like search it up in the appstore,
Don’t click open, instead click on the title, then if there’s an update it will show there on the app page

House2021 said:

What is the minimum amount of equipment needed to convert to a cartridge filter

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H,

Other than the filter itself, you would need a Jandy valve between the filter and the pump.. A valve between the pump and the new filter will allow you to open the pump lid without the filter draining down.. If you use a 3-way valve you can use it to vacuum to waste if you wanted.. The main downside of converting is the cost.. The install is pretty DIY easy. The cartridges last 8 to 10 years so that is not much of an issue.

I had two rent house pools that had DE filters.. I put up with them for years just because I did not want to spend the money to replace them.. They worked fine, just a pain in my rear..

I 'sold' one of the houses to my daughter, so as part of the deal, I replaced the old DE filter with a large cartridge filter. I recently sold the other rent house to the tenant, and would have felt guilty about leaving the old DE filter in place, so I replaced it as part of the sale..

I used these filters.....


Thanks,

Jim R.

Just start vacuuming and see if the return water looks “dirty”. If the filter is running properly the return water shouldn’t be visible. Helps to have a second set of eyes …

I peeked under my cover a couple days ago when getting a sample and it looks pretty clean. Fc is chilling at 14ppm.
Down from 17ppm on Dec 31
Started at 24ppm Nov 4 (closing day)
Water temp was 56 so I have a little time but I went ahead and added a few hours of water. Got a few hours more to go to get her full. With all the water i have pumped out through the cover I am sure i will need alot of salt this year. My cya has dropped from 60 to approximately 30 (unmixed sample of course). Its the first time that’s ever happened.
I am contemplating coating my cover with flex seal (rolling it on) bad idea?

With a cloudy pool, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
If you fail, you slam.

BWnDallas said:

3/16 pH at least 8.2 (very dark red), FC=12.5, CC=0, TA=190, CH=300, Salt 2600 (3200 on panel), CYA=80. Added .33 gal MA at 4:40 PM, retested pH at 7:00 PM was 7.5

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Looks fine. Unless you have a tile line or gas heater, no need to monitor/raise CH in a FG pool.
For FC, keep FC in range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels