The hotspot system is controlled by the 24vac off your hvac system. It has a relay that can turn on a pump to ensure water is circulating.

I think you would use the relay on the hotspot controller to send a signal to the vsp or the relay panel to change the pump speed.

If you search “hotspot FPH” the first three threads returned have lots of details. I would read through that and then contact the OPs to see if they’re still around on the forum.

I'm not aware of any cleaner that will clean the bottom of a tanning ledge. I just give mine a good brushing when it needs it. The tanning ledge plus the stairs and benches takes about 2 mins and gets any leaves and dirt to the areas of the pool where the robot picks it up.

If anyone is feeling entrepreneurial, there would be a market for a robot that got tanning ledges, stairs and spas.

Try a Magic Eraser…

Dirty filters are a major contributor to inefficient flow.

Great catch!

I appreciate all the help! I figured out how to use the vacuum but there was very little suction at the skimmer and none at the end of the hose. I looked up the recommended PSI in the pump and the internet said anywhere from 10-25, mine was at 37 PSI. I opened it up, cleaned the filters, and now there is more than enough suction at the end of the vacuum hose and the pump is hanging out around 20-25 PSI!

I'm have the temperature set on the heater to 100. If I isolate the pool I feel It will go until it reaches 100. If I isolate the spa the heater turns off a few minutes after the spa is isolated. The pool and spa are currently around 72.

Things tend to not sell well on TFP....

Either way, sorry you haven't had a response. Maybe a bump will help...

Sorry you haven't had a response. Maybe a bump will help...

How would you keep it from falling off the ledge?

Sorry you haven't had a response. Maybe a bump will help...

jklocke said:

I've had a similar problem with my robot only running for a few minutes. Resetting the motor helped solve that for me. Here's Maytronics video about how to do that.

Login to view embedded media

Click to expand...

Thank you for posting this. It fixed my issue (i happened onto this thread today)

NewPoolLI said:

Hi, I am in the oyster bay town

Click to expand...

Sent you a PM.

ShallowWater said:

I was wrong there but I still don't think the bluing is from copper but could be wrong. It is mainly at locations where there is aeration but does occur in a few other spots. Not sure if they're visible in my picture but I can post more.

Click to expand...

If you had water in the pool I would recommend you use…


I am not sure how well it will work on the drained surfaces.

The polishing should remove the stains anyway.

Place a wooden dowel on the edge and tap lightly with a hammer.

Can you show pictures of everything?

tulsapoolowner said:

I even turned the pump on briefly with the gauge up top open to see if a little bit of pressure would make it move, it didn’t.

Click to expand...

Never do that.

Login to view embedded media

It sounds like you are about to plaster (in 2 days)
Here are some helpful tips for
Day of Plaster
* Clean up around the pool area the day before - brush any dirt/mud or debris that could be tracked into the pool during or after plaster
* Verify that the bags of plaster are the proper type and color you selected on morning of plaster.
* Take a sample of the mixture when they are applying it to the pool by pouring some in a small clear plastic cup (good for reference later)
* Do they have all the proper return nozzles and drain covers (type and color) to place after plaster installed
* Have you tested your fill water? Are you filling with softened water or regular tap water or well water?
* Have your hose ready (and clean) as it will be laying in the pool.
* Tie a sock or cloth around the nozzle so it does not sit on the plaster or place a pool noodle over the hose end. See more below.
* Put the end of the hose at the lowest part of the pool to avoid channeling in the new plaster. Also, consider tying a plastic jug to the nozzle such that it will float up as the water rises. Or another method is to take two pool noodles and threaded the hoses through the middle of the noodles which will keep the hose suspended on the water surface and away from the pool walls.
* Ensure you take note (or a picture) of your water meter reading before you start to fill
* Be prepared to take note of your water meter as the pool reaches certain levels, i.e bottom of bottom step, top of bottom step, etc. (it helps in the future to know volume of your pool at certain levels - should you ever have to drain portion of it)
* Plan to set an alarm every 4 hours (or so) to ensure hose is still in pool, no debris blew into pool, etc.
* Do NOT stop the flow of water once the pool starts filling as doing so could cause a ring on the new plaster.
* Take a picture of any chemicals they bring on site that they plan to dump in when they start to add water to pool
* Continue to fill pool to center of water tile or center of skimmer. Take picture of water meter at end of fill as this can be used to calculate a more accurate volume of water for you pool.
* Get clear instructions from PB as what to do the day the pool is full - how often to brush, will the pump be turned on, etc.
* Define with PB when he will be back out to set up water chemistry.

TinFoilHat said:

It's the same one that I coax the band back on with as I'm trying to squeeze the top to the bottom.

Click to expand...

TFH,

That is exactly what I do when putting the filter back together... I can't see it working well without a few whacks with a rubber mallet.

Then I tighten the bolt until it squeals like a stuck pig... I always wonder what my neighbors think when I'm doing that...

Jim R.

NM_Dan said:

• Q1: Any insights into what to balance first given the interdependencies of the big 5? From what I've read, I would assert CYA, CL, TA, pH, then CH must be balanced in order; however, I've found a few different combinations online and am hoping TFP has reached a general priority order I just haven't run into yet or can explain why (and how) "it depends."

Click to expand...

You need to follow the plaster startup the pool builder is using for the first 30 days. What brand of plaster and what startup guide are they using?

As for the post 30 days:

NM_Dan said:

• Q2: Any recommendations from NM members here in Albuquerque for where you buy your chemicals? In my quick search I've found Leslie's as having the best deal on liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, and CYA while Lowe's is best for soda ash and calcium chloride and CostCo is best for baking soda.

Click to expand...

Walmart has pool essentials liquid chlorine in most places for about $6/gal. Muriatic acid from ace, or paint store. I would not use soda ash. Use baking soda if you need to raise TA, and aeration to raise pH.

NM_Dan said:

• Q3: I've been in contact with Margaret at Marina Pool and Spa about a pool robot and am leaning towards ordering an EVO 614iq Plus in a couple weeks and was wondering if anyone could link me to a thread on this particular cleaner or provide their own experience for consideration?

Click to expand...

NM_Dan said:

• Q4: We will soon have two water returns I hope to use to point up towards the surface when needing to increase pH without affecting TA. Having used a pump placed on a stair to shoot water up above the surface of, then back into, the pool in years past generating that reassuring 'fizz' I'm uncertain if pointing one or both jets up towards the surface will be as effective. Perhaps I'm just looking for assurance from members who have had success here and potentially any words of wisdom to share?

Click to expand...

Putting up returns won't have much effect. Unless you have very high TA, there is no real reason to aerate. ANY pH in the 7s is just fine. Why did you have to aerate in the past?

I would test and post the TA and CH of your fill water.

If you have high TA, here is your huckleberry...

To see your signature on a phone, turn it to landscape...they will show up...
Oh, yeah, manners...Welcome to TFP!!!

Lookin' good!

JJ_Tex said:

Had you run the equipment for a while before your initial FC test of 0?

If not, I'm wondering if you had some FC but not near the top when you tested.

Click to expand...

Equipment was running for about 3-4 hours when I first tested.