ASR - Concrete Cancer - Austin, TX

Hi, our build was completed by Premier Pools out of Georgetown/north Austin in August of 2021. It was just confirmed about a month ago that we do have ASR just based on visual inspection alone from Premier's own construction manager. A claim has been filed and from everything I hear this is just a check the box exercise because apparently the insurance companies are denying claims left and right. Just wanted to follow up to see what happened ultimately with your pool situation? Did you end up demoing and rebuilding, or just filling it in? Are you still going through litigation?
Our situation sounds close to identical as yours. Same pool builder out of Georgetown but completed August 2022. They filed the claim on their insurance and now we wait. My expectation is they will deny the claim although we did recently receive an email update from Premier that attorneys are talking —their counsel and the insurance counsel— and it gave a sliver of hope that we may see some positive resolution. If not, we are prepared to unfortunately litigate, but I obviously don’t want to do that.

Greetings from Cape Coral FL

We recently moved into our forever home in FL about a year ago. Moving here, a pool was a must on our list. We have a 12,000 gallon cement pool(no Spa) that is just 1 year old as of the writing of this intro. The pool equipment is Jandy; VSP filter pump, Salt Chlorinator, JRT Heater/Chiller. It is a very simple setup with a waterfall as he only water feature.

I have been in the technology sector for well over 50 years and love doing my own automations. I recently purchased an Aqualink RS system and will start installing it soon. I look forward to learning from the group and maybe bring some learnings of my own back to the group.

I am letting a pool company manage my pool chemistry as I learn from them. I plan on taking that over soon and will be leaning on pool school to make sure I do the best I can.

In the future, I am interested in setting up autofill and remote chemistry monitoring for the basic items.

Thanks for this forum to learn and share ideas.

Bud

Drained Due to CH Pushing 1000ppm..

Based on your PoolMath logs, you need to focus on keeping your pH and TA in check.
If you were to do an acid wash and continue to allow the large pH and TA swings, you will encounter the same issues again.

Looking at you most recent PoolMath log from 5 months ago, it isn't really possible to have a TA of 30 and a pH of 8.5. How did you accurately measure a pH of 8.5. Also, with FC greater than 10, your pH will usually show higher than it actually is.

Review the extended test kit directions. Be sure to take the TA and CH tests to their endpoints.
Many stop adding dropss on the TA and CH tests before the endpoint is actually reached.

If this was my pool, I'd choose option one of the three that @PoolStored posted in post #4 - and I'd test more often, focusing on keeping the pool closely aligned with TFP recommended levels.
  • Like
Reactions: ShallowWater

Should I get a new main pump?

A Variable Speed pump (VS) should have continuous power and not be connected to a timer. The pump runtime should be controlled by its internal control panel and clock. A separate mechanical timer can control the SWG. Care must then be taken for the SWG timer to turn on 15 minutes after the pump begins running and SWG power off before the pump turns off. This can become a problem when house power is lost, and the pump retains the proper time while the mechanical timer does not. Anytime you lose power, ensure you check the settings on the timer and the pump. The flow switch is a secondary safety to the timer.

Let’s see your water after removing winter cover!! **RESURRECTED FOR 2025!**

It pays to have a good friend who is an artist when you build a ridonculous garage-mahal right next to your pool!View attachment 632913
My pool is so ghetto compared to the others on here! A mural behind the pool would really set it off and make it look more classy! 🤣
IMG_4296.jpeg
  • Like
Reactions: Buggs

IMG_4296.jpeg

Should I get a new main pump?

When you connect the VS3 it will be to the hot side of the timer (not controlled by the timer) because it has it's own timer. The salt system will be on the load side of the timer so that it can be turned on AFTER the pump has primed and so that it turns off BEFORE the pump turns off. This ensures that the salt system isn't operating when no water is present.
I bought the pump. So on how you described it, the pump will connect to hot side, so it always has power, and therefore runs based on it's own programing/timer, correct?

Then the circupool will go on the load side (that's probably where the current single speed pump is?) and will be turned on/off by the timer. This should work fine as long as the timer is set to run the circupool within the time that the pump is running, right? I imagine if the timer turns on the circupool while the pump is off, the circupool will just not run because of no flow (safety).

Drained Due to CH Pushing 1000ppm..

Your CH and CSI has been consistently high.

You have three ways of handling scale:
  • Run your water chemistry at a low CSI of around -0.6 or even a bit below and it may melt the scale off over a few months. This is the least damaging to your plaster finish but will take the longest.
  • Drain the pool and sanding the plaster using diamond sanding pads with power sanders.
  • Do an acid wash of the pool that will remove the scale but also etch the plaster, remove a layer of it, and weaken the plaster.
  • Like
Reactions: KJB1

PXL_20220107_215628683.jpg

Let’s see your water after removing winter cover!! **RESURRECTED FOR 2025!**

I just, a moment ago, pulled the 1st tick of the season crawling up my leg.

View attachment 632911
Dang it. I have 3 dogs and woods behind my house. I thought we had a lil more time. If I could start a tick genocide, I would. Hate those lil buggers!
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude

giphy.gif

Let’s see your water after removing winter cover!! **RESURRECTED FOR 2025!**

I peeked under my cover a couple days ago when getting a sample and it looks pretty clean. Fc is chilling at 14ppm.
Down from 17ppm on Dec 31
Started at 24ppm Nov 4 (closing day)
Water temp was 56 so I have a little time but I went ahead and added a few hours of water. Got a few hours more to go to get her full. With all the water i have pumped out through the cover I am sure i will need alot of salt this year. My cya has dropped from 60 to approximately 30 (unmixed sample of course). Its the first time that’s ever happened.
I am contemplating coating my cover with flex seal (rolling it on) bad idea?
Just Do It Shia GIF by MOODMAN

New to me pool - Progress pics

That's algae. Your old, tiny, filter isn't helping and ascorbic acid kills chlorine levels.

I don't believe that it is.

I just did another AA treatment and everything just disappeared, except for a few spot where there is rusting on the bottom of the pool.

I have yet to reintroduce chlorine, as I want to have these rust spots lift. It's been about 12 hours.

Is this from metal in the gunite eeking through, or just negligence from prior owner?

All of the spots you see are rust spots, and the are heavily concentrated in a spot on the shallowest end of the pool, and near the drain of the deep end. Rest of the pool is mostly clear.PXL_20250318_155827745.jpgPXL_20250318_155757233.jpg

PXL_20250318_155757233.jpg

PXL_20250318_155827745.jpg

Drained Due to CH Pushing 1000ppm..

The pool has scaled and feels like sandpaper and also exhibits bluing of the white plaster.

Build up on the waterline is minimal as we've removed it each year and it's only been two years.

It is plumbed to a water softener which was broken for a time last year unbeknownst to us.

I think the rise is somehow related to the curing of new shotcrete and plaster as it continued to rise after the water softener was fixed.

1742313418361.png

1742313329711.png

1742313064173.png

1742312674251.png

1742312338351.png

I think I can, I think I can…

Careful with HF. I needed a cheapo angle grinder and it did the trick for $15, but it had no oomph whatsoever and I could easily stop it from cutting. :ROFLMAO:

For my one time small job I dealt with the sweet time it took to cut a 4 inch square, but if the project was larger, i would have wanted a more powerful medium cheapo tool.
One of my sons is in the plumbing trade, at one time he was in residential plumbing and needed to supply his own tools. I'm a firm believer in getting the best tools for working with them every day. He settled on Milwaukee Fuel 18 volt tools. Every single one of them are beasts at what they do. His co workers at the time had lesser quality tools and always were impressed with how well they worked. Now he's in industrial/commercial plumbing and they supply the tools ... sometimes not the best ones at that! 🤣
  • Haha
Reactions: Newdude

Filter