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IC40 communication lost

Jimrahbe
2,

It is not a suggestion, it is a REQUIREMENT that the Cell's power supply be wired to the load side of the pump/filter relay..

It is not clear by your pic where the Pump/Filter is located.. It should be the relay in the upper left of the cabinet, but idiot installers often have their own ideas... :mrgreen:

Follow the wires that plug into the Pump/Filter connection on the main card back and see what relay they go to, just to make sure..

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Pentair Screen logic w/ Starlink Gen3

C
ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.

Why was an obsolete EasyTouch system installed in a new pool instead of a modern IntelliCenter?

The IntelliCenter network connectivity was greatly improved.

Pentair announced the following in April 2023:

Pentair is discontinuing the IntelliTouch, EasyTouch, and EasyTouch PL4/PSL4 Pool Control Systems. These products will no longer be available to order starting:

  • July 31, 2023 for all IntelliTouch Systems
  • September 29, 2023 for all EasyTouch Systems
We recognize these products have been in high demand for many years. However, given advancements in Pentair innovation and evolving industry demands, we are transitioning focus to the latest technology standards included with the IntelliCenter Pool Control System.

Pentair FAQ:

What control system should I order? The recently updated IntelliCenter and IntelliCenter Lite Control Systems are the flagship automation products at Pentair, with both systems offering best-in-class technology and the most versatile control for most pool types.

Will warranties still be honored for my customers’ existing control system? Warranty and replacement parts will be honored as available per our standard warranty policy. For more information, please review the EasyTouch and IntelliTouch FAQs.

Will obsolete products continue to be supported? Products moved to obsolete status will continue to be supported under warranty. Pentair will replace legacy systems under warranty with comparable equipment while parts are available. If replacement parts are unavailable for existing systems under warranty, the IntelliCenter Upgrade Kit for EasyTouch, EasyTouch PL4/PSL4, and IntelliTouch systems may be required.
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That's a great question, I didn't realize that was the situation. It's a pretty expensive pool and I just assumed I was getting up to date equipment. I guess I'll be calling the builder tomorrow, luckily I haven't submitted all the payments so hopefully I'll have an Intellicenter system soon. Is there anyone who can verify Starlink with Gen3 router will easily connect to Intellicenter?
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Pool / Spa renovation - Dual bodies of water or P/S combo? Want to keep spa at temp.

ajw22
laspalomas said:
Thanks Jim. Yes we’ve had the pool and spa for a decade and very much enjoy it. Just rather avoid the cost and time to hear from 70F to 100F each evening. That’s what I’m trying to solve for.
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Is your spa covered?

Do you intend to keep the spa equipment and heat running 24/7?

I think you will find there is not much if any saving in heating on demand versus running seperate equipment to maintain the spa temperature.
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(Failed with first 60 days) First look at Pentair's new IntelliChlor Plus30

ajw22
Lake Placid said:
It’s definitely been redesigned…better is tbd….heres an excerpt from one the the PowerPoint presentations regarding the sensor redesign. I’ll keep digging for more detailed info.

View attachment 632717
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I wonder how much a replacement sensor mode will cost when one of the three sensors fails.

Any bets on how long before clone sensor modules appear on Amazon?
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Help!!! Insane water loss over winter!!!

ajw22
Yup, you need to find and fix the leak before you can fully refill the pool.

If the leak is not obvious then add an inch or two of water and squirt pool dye around or Mrs. Stewart’s Liquid Bluing. The bottle has a very tiny opening that lets a tiny stream out when you give it a little squeeze. It will look like blue smoke and flow to a leak if there is one and it is applied close enough.

After you use it for this, add the whole bottle to the pool, makes the water sparkle, doesn't hurt anything chemically or the equipment, last a couple of days.


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Vinyl Liner-Patching - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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ajw22
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Pentair replacement for a Top mount Hayward W3S244T

ajw22
dr53sk said:
Hi, I would prefer to stay with the sand filter because I'm very familiar with how it operates, plus we're planning to put the house on the market this year (downsizing) and would like to keep my expenses down.
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If you will be selling the house why do you care about switching brands?

Just replace it with another of the same model and it is a simple install as sand filters go.
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Help!!! Insane water loss over winter!!!

S
Just pulled back the corner of my cover and saw there was no water in the shallow end. Bone dry except a small puddle toward the middle. Water remains in the deep end and almost all the way up the slope. Walls are all exposed. Some of the liner appears to have shifted in the shallow end. Liner remains attached around top perimeter as well as around stairs (although space has developed between bottom of stairs and liner like a taught tent) Water level is below all plumbing, light fixture, stairs etc. The only fixture still under water is the main drain.

My concerns/questions
1. Is the liner irreversibly damaged due to the severity of water loss? Can I just add water to correct the water level or do I risk making the problem worse?

2. Obviously there is a leak at or below the current water level. Should I find and resolve this prior to adding water.

3. Am I over my head and in need of a local pool company to come sort out the leak and liner?


Pool originally built in 1980’s.
30k gallon kidney shape. 9ft in deep end.
Current liner is about 5 years old.

Not sure what other info may be helpful but happy to add any needed.

Thank you!!!

Shawn
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Pentair replacement for a Top mount Hayward W3S244T

PoolStored
Then, based on price, are you willing to replumb? Replacing what you have with Same/Same, if it is on unions, would be drop in replacement.

Might consider the Hayward S244T. The W3S244T version has a 1 year parts only warranty, while the S244T has a 3 years parts 1 year labor warranty.

Any 24" sand filter can have the same problems these days...

You can connect the 1.5 to 2" with a sleeve...no issues.
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IC40 communication lost

A
The unit is working great, and I can definitely see that it’s producing chlorine. I installed it last season, and since then, I’ve been getting this error message on Screen Logic: communication lost. It seems like there might be a problem with my wiring. The booster pump wires are no longer needed. Can I just remove those two wires and connect the chlorinator to that relay? Any guidance will be highly appreciated.
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(Failed with first 60 days) First look at Pentair's new IntelliChlor Plus30

Dirk
Lake Placid said:
It’s definitely been redesigned…better is tbd….heres an excerpt from one the the PowerPoint presentations regarding the sensor redesign. I’ll keep digging for more detailed info.

View attachment 632717
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That sounds fantastic!

Now I wonder if it'll still be compatible with my IntellipH. The IpH talks to and controls the IC, especially during acid dispensing, when it temporarily bypasses the IC to prevent acid and chlorine dispensing at the same time. That'd be a biggie for me. I still should have many years to go on my current IC, so it'll be a while before I'll know for sure. But Pentair must have taken steps to maintain compatibility with EasyTouch and IntelliCenter, etc, so hopefully the comms and protocols didn't change.
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Maintaining my own pool now

Newdude
PoolSouthpaw said:
Is that because higher CYA levels make it harder to fight crud in the pool, like algae?
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A higher CYA means a higher slam target (40%).

swcg_chart.jpg

You'll go through more bleach, needing to add it more often fighting the higher CYA slam, so always OCLT before raising it. Even when the water looks great.
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Newdude
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(Failed with first 60 days) First look at Pentair's new IntelliChlor Plus30

Lake Placid
Dirk said:
Ha, ha, that was my first [cynical] thought, too! Along those lines:

It speaks volumes about Pentair "engineers" that it took them all these years to finally figure out the LED should be labeled "Chlorinating" instead of "Cell." It feels like one of them finally got a pool!!

But hey, we'll take what we can get. This is a significant upgrade from my IC40, so credit where credit is due. And they chose to make these drop in replacements, they could have easily gone another way. Great job Pentair, and thank you so much @Skenn81 for this awesome review.

I have the dreaded "zero salt" problem with my latest IC40, though it's still generating. Same failure my first one had. Time will tell if this upgrade is just "prettier," or if it addresses some of the other problems the IC has had, especially that awful flow switch/salt reader combo. [Back to cynical mode!]
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It’s definitely been redesigned…better is tbd….heres an excerpt from one the the PowerPoint presentations regarding the sensor redesign. I’ll keep digging for more detailed info.

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Maintaining my own pool now

PoolStored
PoolSouthpaw said:
Interesting... Is that because higher CYA levels make it harder to fight crud in the pool, like algae?
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Welllll, not harder, per se...

Higher CYA levels require higher FC when you SLAM to remove algae. Higher FC levels require more chlorine. At levels of 70+ it becomes very difficult, above 90, I wouldn't attempt a slam...you'd need to replace some water to reduce CYA before the SLAM.

So not "harder," but will take longer (more labor), and cost more.

I'd run your CYA at 60 while you figure out your SWG. After you demonstrate you can manage your FC, then you can raise your CYA above 60 if you like. I don't think there is any reason to run CYA above 80. Most of us find the most benefit at 60/70.
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Lake Placid
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Dolphin S300i (disassembled) - for parts only - free for pickup in North Dallas

S
I originally thought I was going to rebuild my S300i but it never happened. If I recall the main tether cable was shot and it wasn't moving around well. The shell, baskets, power supply, and many of the parts appear to be in good shape but it's spring cleaning in the garage so it's all gotta go! Send me a PM if you'd like to come by and pick everything up - first come first serve and winner takes all :cool:! I live in Richardson, north of Dallas.

Neil

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Pool / Spa renovation - Dual bodies of water or P/S combo? Want to keep spa at temp.

L
Jimrahbe said:
Michael,

No...

You either have a pool/spa combination system, or a separate pool and separate spa system..

Do you currently have a pool with a gunite spa???

If not, have you ever been in a gunite spa?? If not, I suspect that you will be very disappointed..

If you want a spa that stays hot, the best thing to do would be to get a standalone spa.. They have a bazillion jets and stay hot for pennies a day.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Thanks Jim. Yes we’ve had the pool and spa for a decade and very much enjoy it. Just rather avoid the cost and time to hear from 70F to 100F each evening. That’s what I’m trying to solve for.
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Jan 2025 IG pool build in Georgia, need liner re set!!!!

S
So I sucked it up(literally:ROFLMAO:) used my regular vacuum. I tried the sweep in a pile. And then dustpan it out, well that was a sht show. I then tried my pool robot, and that too was a disaster. He filled up in 2 mins. I would have had to clean him out maybe 100 times or more. So I went old school. Regular vacuum, into filter. Backwashed vigorously after. Just will need a final robot clean.
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