Sorry, I didn't get any notifications after the first response. I have since found a smaller Hayward S166T tank which I got from a co-worker years ago when he got rid of his 21ft round pool (it was stuffed away and I forgot I had it). Is this smaller tank okay to use with my 1hp pump for awhile? I realize it'll have less filtering capacity and require more frequent backwashing, but my old one was probably going 3 to 4 weeks between backwashing or I would just backwash it because I needed to drain down the water level anyway. My plumbing is flexible, so no worries on that.

Secondly, is there some product to spray on plastic to protect it from the sun to last longer? My homemade chlorine tank (a 5 gallon Lowes bucket & lid) also cracked open. I suppose the best protection would come from being under a roof covering of some sort?

Thanks,
Garry

With Jandy they recommend setting a 5 minute break between stop and restart. Works great for me and I did have issues when it was the same stop/start time. There is no way to continuously run that I have found.

Also Jandy has a default or "Pool" speed where it automatically goes to when first turned on. Mine is set for 1500 RPMs.

Set it to 12a to 11:59p
Or set overlapping timers:

My Polaris never gets stuck on anything.

Mine is 27 mil.

Oh yeah its like Caribbean water lol

The white line at the tiles isn’t so much “scale” from a chemical imbalance but more a consequence of evaporation and precipitation. As water evaporates at the interface of the tile and waterline, some dissolved solids, like calcium, salt, silicates, etc, will precipitate out of solution. That scale gets deposited on the tiles. Nothing will stop that because concentration changes, not chemical ones, drive the process. This is why spillover spa faces will always develop a white crust of evaporite.

The best you can do is always try to maintain a low saturation index to promote dissolved solids staying in the solution and then scrubbing the tile line regularly. Tile cleaners can help keep tiles clean, but they require regular application and lots of elbow grease.

I ran your numbers it is about 16K
According to pool math.
128oz of 10% LC will add 6.2ppm of FC in a 16000 gallon pool.
Which is about what happened. You had 2, add 6.2 and tested 8.5.
Your volume is probably about 15,000. (your 6.2 added a bit more).
Start with that volume.

Thanks - but that’s exactly what I did! I have 16k in my signature because that’s what the builder put in the paperwork. I’ve tried to use some of the online tools to try and get a better capacity but they usually tell me 20k gallons.

Andrewp said:

So it is possible that I need to add CaCl2 as Pool Math suggests, even though I have calcium scale?

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Yup, you need at least 200-250 ppm of CH to protect your plaster.

Andrewp said:

Which, btw, occurs everywhere under the water, not just the waterline.

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That looks like a mixture of Efflorescence - Further Reading coming through your grout lines and Waterline Scale Removal - Further Reading

It could be useful to do a bucket test with and without the pump running.

If you detect a leak only when the pump is running or the leak is larger with the pump running, then the leak is likely on the return side of the pump in an unseen part of the plumbing.

If you detect a leak only when the pump is not running, then the leak is likely on the suction side of the pump and would explain the air leak on the suction side as well.

If you detect the same amount of leakage with both the pump running and not running, the leak is likely somewhere other than the plumbing such as the pool shell or plaster/PVC interface.

tenkas said:

I clean it everyday, pressure doesn't rise up to 25

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Let it go, the crud the filter traps acts as the new filter and traps finer crud. A dirty filter works better to the moment it reduces flow.

This is the sand filters cross to bear, that it takes longer to get to the same point, but IMO all 3 filters eventually filter to your yards ability, not the filter itself.

tenkas said:

lot of it is from a tree that is near.

But I suspect also dead algae.

What do you guys think?

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I think that every spring slam has some degree of crossover and its impossible to tell if its 50/50 or 90/10.

tenkas said:

Also found more cracks in the pool.

Getting very stressed because company closed down (was opened for 40 years so I trusted them).

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There's nothing the company did to make gel coat cracks, especially deep ones.

So it is possible that I need to add CaCl2 as Pool Math suggests, even though I have calcium scale? Which, btw, occurs everywhere under the water, not just the waterline.waterline.

Aubie99 said:

No, the betta skimmer will not damage your vinyl liner. Vinyl liners are pretty tough. I've got a lab that swims daily (see my profile pic) and he hasn't damaged the liner.

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how thick is your liner mine is 20 mil

Glad we could help.

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PG,

The opposite is also true...

If you put a hose in your pool, add water, then go down hill to the faucet and shut it off.. And then, unscrew the hose end and lay the end on the ground, it will drain your pool all night...

Sigh!!

Jim R.

Use a wet paper towel, and clean the vial with rubbing alcohol and DRY before testing.

It'll be the clearest water you ever saw and you might even stop it drifting a bit early, not wanting to go back. #teamrunhot gains new members everyday.

But yeah. I never see a need to spend money on something harmless that happens for free.

PoolGate said:

No clue but here is the full troubleshooting manual for the AquaPure.

JANDY AQUAPURE WORKBOOK Pdf Download

View and Download Jandy AquaPure workbook online. AquaPure lighting equipment pdf manual download. Also for: Purelink, Nature2 fusion soft.

www.manualslib.com

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Thanks for the reply.

I have went through the diagnostic. It passed the tests when the LED "B" is lit. However when the LED A is lit, there is no voltage output to the cell. I do not know what controls which LED to lit.

You have the same system right? Is it possible to check which Program you selected and which LED is lit?

Thanks a lot

Test again, wiping the tip with a paper towel between drops.

No, just be patient, it will come down. FC of 20 is SLAM level for CYA of 50. Safe to swim up to and including 20 FC with CYA of 50, IF you can see the bottom of the deep end.

tomas21 said:

Back in business...

Baseline readings after installing new gauge, adding new air relief screen, removing all air from filter, and adding back (8) 1/2 scoops from Blue Devil of CelaPerl.

Baseline readings after Filter cleaning:

• Pool Pump rpm / Visiflow reading / Filter PSI
• 1200 rpm / 30 GPM, 0 PSI
• 2000 rpm / 45 GPM, 4 PSI
• 2500 rpm / 60 GPM, 8.5 PSI

Any reason why the new pressure gauge from tftestkits.net only has 3 tick marks to 5 but rest have 4... different way to read up to 5?

View attachment 566993

New air relief screen fit like OEM
View attachment 566994

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@tomas21 did this aftermarket screen cap hold up through the season? My OEM finally tore after roughly 8 years and I need a new one. I can't find an OEM screen for my Quad DE60 that doesn't come with the standpipe (Pentair replacement part 170029, air bleeder assembly); which looks like it'll cost me about $70 from any place I've heard of before. Seems like a hefty price for this little screen.

Should i use some hydrogen peroxide to lower FC? I am afraid is going to take forever to get to 3-4 from 20/22…

Also found more cracks in the pool.

Getting very stressed because company closed down (was opened for 40 years so I trusted them).

Oh my...