Which SWG to purchase
- Salt Water Chlorine Generators (SWG)
- 13 Replies
Fyi...I don't think the $10 upgrade is active now.
Copy. Will up the FC with what I have and address when I get home. ThanksYou need to get that FC UP!!! Take it to SLAM level before you leave on your trip...target is 24.
Have them specify the MODEL # of the filter, pump.They will also identify, pressure test, and install equipment as listed in the picture. I just want to make sure everything on there is necessary?
He is going to try and get my old light working for a couple hundred bucks, but if not, should I just filling in and use wireless lights?
In line chlorinator actually needed?
Polaris, should I just buy and install myself?
Bead blasting tile, can I just pressure wash and scrub it?
Thanks for the reply. Those great choices are recommendations from this community. I will look at the RJ-20 now!Wow, great choices. There is no need for automation on an AGP. I'd second the vote on the RJ-20. I have a 60 on a 30K pool and it has been flawless, starting 4th year.
Wow, great choices. There is no need for automation on an AGP. I'd second the vote on the RJ-20. I have a 60 on a 30K pool and it has been flawless, starting 4th year.I am going with a Calimar 3hp pump and a Pentair clean and clear plus 320 sq ft cartridge filter for the setup on the 24 ft round pool.
I will try to get the measurements when I get home from work tomorrow. TF-Pro kit? Thinking of converting to CircuPool RJ-45 next year, but liquid chlorine this year.Give me dimensions, L, W, Shallow depth and deep depth from a tape measure.
Someone call me? Seems like it, but you are in good hands with Marty.Sick of pool store not knowing what they're talking about, selling me stuff.
I am not even sure my pool is 30000 gallons. I measured it once, and seems that, since it has a slope from shallow end to the deep end, that it's only about 25,000 gallons.Get pool math. Use your TFP UName/PW.
Configure your pool.
Then under the gear in the upper right, scroll to the bottom and share with TFP (then we can see your logs, click my name you can see mine)
Then go to menu (upper right) and use "Effects of Adding."
Link-->PoolMath
After you are setup, tell me how much adds 5ppm
The second scenario you suggested with a tank set up. Is there a plug-play option on the market like that? Or is that something that has to be designed? In our small town there is nobody that knows anything about UV. I guess they are pretty common wasted upsells for many areas of the country, but they are unheard of for pools here.TL/DR - low pressure mercury or mercury-amalgam bulbs are your best bet.
For a residential pool turn-key system, you’re most likely only going to find low pressure UV lamps as the standard. They are safer to operate and they produce mostly UV-C radiation and lots of heat (about 30-40% of the electrical energy is converted to UV-C, the rest is longer wavelength visible, heat, and electrical loss).
What’s key is how the UV is implemented. In a standard, single pass, straight flow design, you really need a bypass plumbing configuration to control flow and ensure as much exposure as possible. This does incur a dilution effect because you’re only exposing a fraction of the water flow to the UV source. This can be a good enough setup if you plan to run the UV continuously.
A more efficient approach is to use a larger contact tank setup where the water enters the tank from the bottom and has to flow in a centrifugal fashion so it has a long contact time with the UV source. Some of these systems are setup to inject peroxide as well so that you get the added benefit of hydroxyl radical formation.
Your biggest expense is going to be bulb replacement as they only last a year or so with constant use. So whatever route you chose, make sure you have a few bulb suppliers available. Also, grab an extra quartz sheath tub as well because those lose transparency over time too.