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When to remove water (from rain fall)

Do you have a main drain? I have two
You have one pipe with a T on the end of it spaced just far enough apart so that you cant seal off both of them at the same time to get stuck. (y)

And that just goes back to the equipment pad and doesnt drain anything. The 3 way valve to waste at the filter is the 'drain'.

You may shave off a couple inches anytime with the 3 way valve. Babysit it because it goes quick when using the pool pump. If you leave the area, say, to go check the mailbox which only takes a minute, set a timer on your phone to return in 5 mins or less. It's sounds silly, but trust me here. :ROFLMAO:

Now here is how you hack Murphys to your favor. If the grass needs a flooding, leave the pool high and WOOSH it will pour. If you need it to be dry, for a party or such, drain just a bit too much and 'wait for the rain to refill you' (wink wink). Then add some with the hose after.

Aquarite cell not generating

Hi, I appreciate all who are reading this and offering their assistance. I have an Aqua Rite T-9 cell, about 6 years old so maybe near the end of its life. The main board is much older. My display board has been a bit wonky for a while so here is what is happening.

Recently, the generating light comes on solid upon startup and then about 30 seconds later the inspect cell and check salt light flash. The generating light would stay on. this happened for a few days
Now, the generating light comes on and the inspect cell and salt light stay on and the generating light goes off. The power light is also on.

I replaced the thermistor and no luck. Actually, shortly after replacing it is when the lights went from flashing to staying on.

I tested the cell using the 5 gallon bucket test and I am seeing a lot of bubbles and chlorine, so seems like the cell is good. see attached picture.

One odd thing, when I turn the pump on the salt panel does not come on. I have to take the display board off and then reseat it back and then the salt power comes on. This seems to be routine now as it has happened several times in a row.

here are my readings. It is reading very low salt but I believe it is much higher. I am going to have it tested again today but last week it was 2500 and I have since put in two bags. Not sure if the low salt is why the lights stay on but I thought they would flash. I understand I need to get a correct reading of the salt before maybe being able to determine what is going on but no power upon startup seems to be something else.

2200
81
32.4
0
70
0
al 0
15.5
t9

Does it seem like maybe a bad board and display? As I was messing with it yesterday I did accidentally change it to a T15 which I read would cause this probably but I changed it back and The T9 reading is what matches my cell.

Thank you

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SWG before multiport?

You'll have to reconfigure the plumbing between your multi-port valve and that ball valve to accommodate the SWG, in the orientation it needs to be in, and in such a way that you can get at it (for servicing). It's possible, but it'll take some doing. Something like this might work, keeping it and its plumbing all horizontal. But they can be mounted vertically, too, if that's all there is room for. You'll probably have to replace that ball valve. Let's see what others have to say.

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SWG before multiport?

Thanks for the pics. I'll defer to those here that know how your multiport valve works. But you've only got one.

You find return manifolds on pools where the "output" of the equipment on the pad splits off to various places, like maybe the pool and a spa, and perhaps some water features (fountains and bubblers, etc). Such a manifold will have a few valves, one or more for each of those functions.

You don't have a true return manifold, because it looks like you only have one pipe going back to your pool, which would be for the returns (some people call those "jets"). You have just the one orange-handled ball valve on that return line. "Manifold" implies more than one valve.

I'm guessing, but it looks like the other orange-handled ball valve leads to a pipe that is used when you have your multiport valve in its "to waste" position. Typically, you wouldn't need either ball valve, unless some or all of your pad's equipment is below the pool's water level. Is that the case?

No matter, if the arrow in the following pic is pointing to the pipe that leads to your pool's returns, then the arrow is also pointing to the ideal location for your SWG, except that there is no room for it. I don't think anyone here is going to endorse locating the SWG where you want to put it, because that would send highly-chlorinated water into your multi-port valve, which is not good for it.

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What kind of pool light is this?

Based on the below measurements/details of the pool light:

-Outer ring is 3 in
-Inner ring with the screws is about 2 in
-Bulb is about 1.5 in
-It is a vinyl liner pool. The pool equipment pad is probably about 25 feet or less from the furthest light. I believe the wiring goes to there.

Is there something i should be looking or in terms of replacement pool light? Also, if there are any suggestions on what i should replace it with (brand / model). Finally, if Spa Electric does make sense as a replacement, do you know who would be a good online vendor of their lights so i can order. Thank you very much!

When to remove water (from rain fall)

When should I use my main drain to remove water? We got rain last night here in Connecticut and we are expecting 1.5+ inches more over the next couple of days. As you can see from the picture my water level is at the top of the skimmer now.

Also, what level on the skimmer should the water be? 3/4 the way up? 1/2? Something else?

And as I have never done it before is removing water as easy as turning one of the levers of the main drain?

Thanks again!

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Need help before laying out bottom rails of new above ground pool, please.

Kudos to you !
Your 1/2” of smoothing it in a couple spots is more than likely ok 👍🏻
Most manufacturers stipulate it should be within an inch.
obviously you want it as level as possible and you definitely want all the paver tops and all around the bottom rail the exact same level.
In the middle the sand may or may not be helpful with smoothing lol.
Keep in mind that people dish out the middle so a spot or two won’t hurt anything it just may be a little lumpy.
With sand you will end up with some divots at some point anyway.
You can rent a transit/laser level from a big box store if you need to.
We used one to confirm our top rail was maintaining its level as we filled & it was comforting to see.
as far as the gravel dust. It is commonly used although I have no experience there.
@phonedave may shed some light as to how important it may be in your area/with your soil.
A couple notes as you go along on this journey…
While doing everything alone is admirable, putting up a pool wall and a liner alone is not generally recommended for newbies.
This is mainly due to the time it takes to go at it alone. Its kind of a race against the wind and weather so more people/hands is better. The sooner you can start filling the lower your risk of wind damage is. If you must take a break whilst building be sure to secure your walls to help prevent damage (bungees staked into the ground is a common method)
I am sure you have probably watched a million videos but you will probably see this in some of them - along with using rubber tipped clips to temporarily secure the liner as needed.

Never fill at night- just resume filling the following morning once the sun wakes up ☀️
Ideally you would start on the wall early in the morning and be filling the pool by the afternoon when the sun is shining and helping with pliability.
Throw a pool raising party to get help 🎉

You likely already have this bookmarked but I’ll leave it here for you anyway 😊
Thank you so much! Oh yes! That wall is going up with the help of 5 men. That part is not happening alone. S$***, I can't even lift the box it is in! I've got two wise men, and 3 young souls to help with that. 🤣
So, I put the bottom rail together and I can see I've got a few areas where the bottom track has void of sand ( it's not all resting on the soil). One area is about 3 inches, the other is like 5 inches. I'm not sure how my anal ways allowed for this error. Can I maybe add something there? What about if I took my tracks apart, bought some gravel and tamped a ring of gravel into the sand all the way around? Just to be sure everything is legit solid? Our old pool was a best way and we put play sand under it. We'll, getting rid of that play sand has been a beast. I'm still pulling piles out from areas. Each morning more appears!
I don't want a full gravel base, but what about an 8 inch ring of gravel tamped area for the bottom rail/tracks to sit on? I hear gravel will help drain water while maintaining a solid foundation? Would it hurt? Has anyone tried this? After this, I never want to pick up a shovel again... lol I want to get this right and it has taken me forever to get this level. Now, I'm with two areas that have a spot under the track with no freaking sand.
I should have paid someone to do the leveling. 🤣

DIY-PoolAutomation-Pizero-FrankenAuto

A few updates, I reprinted bottom divider so the low voltage will remain separated from the high voltage. Added low voltage knockout and plug knockout with 120v plug.
I am rethinking the rs-485, the pool this will be going on is my buddies and he has an intelliflo 3 with I/O and from what I read these speeds are adjustable. So I’m thinking of using the digital input on the I/O and using 3 of the 8 low voltage relays(low, mid, high). The main reason is I want to make my own interface. I’m doing this as a project for my resume, so I want to be as creative as possible.

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