PoolStored said:

Circupool has the smartflow automation:

CircuPool® SmartFlo Interface Kit-USF-INTERFACE

www.circupool.com

Same thing, but less $$$

https://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/pool/calimar-cmarvspib-pump-interface-board/187101p1

Doesn't matter. Use the pump add on automation. You'll be fine.


You don't want power full time. If pump fails, hydrogen gas is explosive. Good read:

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Get the automation add-on, power the Core from there. Clean your filter, turn the VSP down until the flow sensor turns the SWG off, then run your pump at 200 RPM above that speed.

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poolstored, thanks, i feel like you're always responding to me can't thank you enough. i'm on circupools site looking at the automation and can't find much on if it even can connect into the pump or how it actually works. i dont have any existing automation equipment fyi. i was hoping the circupool core Control big module may be able to do that but i can't figure that out either...so without some other automation equipment how would buying the $88 part from circupool help me? sorry i feel so dumb compared to many of you, trying to learn!

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

The CircuPool pump does not have this option and I don't believe the automation panel adds this feature. Can you confirm otherwise @PoolStored? I thought the automation interface only provided control of the pump speeds.

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Mike, really? Twice in one day...I need to go to bed.

You are correct. It only controls the pump speed using automation. My head is stuck in intelliflo3 land...

As always, keep me straight. Love 'ya brother! Maybe I need some goats to keep me straight!

Here are your SWG control options:

KBreuer15 said:

This is as far as they will turn.

And what do you mean fill the pump with water? I did not do that. Never saw that anywhere in my research before starting.View attachment 643379View attachment 643380

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Ok. Watched a video. Filling the pump now.

So you will have to see how much this impact pH rise.

Another thread for you, with more technical details, pH 7.0 to 7.4 and lots of tiny bubbles is what will help you lower TA

If the AOP is working properly it should, in theory, oxidize everything to nitrogen gas, CO2, and oxygen while leaving behind chlorides. I agree with your approach of not chlorinating right away and running the AOP system overnight. Chlorinated organics are, in general, harder to breakdown than non-halogenated compounds because the halogen-carbon bonds tend to be more stabilizing to the structure of the molecule through shorter bond lengths and more localized electron bonding. So it’s better to attack bather waste through oxidative processes before disinfection.

You can think of your high bather load pool as being like a giant spa or hot tub. It requires different mindset for water chemistry management.

The lion heads will help a little bit. When I need to lower TA, I pull water from the pool and set returns to spa. The effect of bubbles in the spa and spillover into the pool is an aggressive means of creating aeration and driving up pH. Your spa will be your best form of creating aeration. Because my fill water is high in TA, I continually allow bit of water to spill over from the spa to the pool. This constant aeration helps me to keep TA in check on a daily basis.

The only consistent thing is if the pump is off then the iAqulink remote is red and and offline. Hard to tell which comes first or both together.

Yes, the filter pump is on scheule 7a-11p and it only tiurns on and off randomly during this time (though I havent woken up to check during the middle of the night). The iAqualink antenna is sheltered from elemtns inside a shed and hardwired underground in a conduit to the control panel which is outdoors but in a weatherproof cabinet. The pump is variable.

Post your Pool Water Temp and fill water temp. Post a full set of chemical results and I'll tell you where to drain and were to fill.
You have 25,000 gallon pool, 80% is 20K. Typical garden hose it 5GPM. 20K / 5GPM is 4000 minutes. 4000minues/60minutes per hour = 66 hours, or just less than three days.
You need a sump pump to pump out water. A simple sump pump from HD and a garden hose will work Do you have a place to send it (drain)?
You also want the sump pump to remove at closely the same rate as addition. If sump is too powerful, you can turn it on/off to keep the same level in the pool, or you can put garden hose over a ladder or other tall structure to reduce the flow from the sump pump to better match input with outuput.

This is as far as they will turn.

And what do you mean fill the pump with water? I did not do that. Never saw that anywhere in my research before starting.

Enzodast said:

many it seems use the aux option on their pumps to drive the salt gen...but i dont think the circupool pump has that. Please correct me if it does and i can't find it in the manual.

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The CircuPool pump does not have this option and I don't believe the automation panel adds this feature. Can you confirm otherwise @PoolStored? I thought the automation interface only provided control of the pump speeds.

While you're at it can you confirm the inlet pressure to the heater is in spec when you go through an ignition cycle. If they gave you new regulators you probably have good supply pressure but it's pretty easy to check just to confirm. ***Edit***Never mind looks like you did this in the video.

Yeah, the guy at my store claims it was a supplier issue but you are probably correct. I returned mine for a full refund as I suspected it was diluted per the discussion here.

Thank you, I’ll read up on that. And post back with any questions. It sounds really hard.

I’ve no idea how it got to 90? Maybe I raised it months ago? I can’t recall last time I did so since it’s been between 80-90 all winter. And the only thing I add typically, or a majority of the time, is acid once a week or once every two. Maybe from how rainy of a winter we had? Maybe from the few years I used a pool service and who knows what they used?

For me, since coming here, it seems I keep my free chlorine level in check and cya. Ph adjustments at times. Brush, vacuum. Run robot. Kind of takes care of itself.

PoolStored said:

Super manageable...you need this thread...what water features do you have? Pics?

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

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It will be 3 of these lion heads about 10 ft apart, powered by a 1.85hp variable speed jandy pump


They are small like 6 inches tall I believe, hard to tell from the picture

There is also a built-in spa with 5 jets, but not sure how much that can help the rest of the pool

PoolStored said:

My guess was wrong. (who'd a thunk it. Lol)
That's why we test...was just a guess.
I'm surprised. We usually see this in the desert SW.
At 180, I'd run soft water.

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Thanks for the input. I’m still going to run my own tests and will report back anyways.

PoolStored said:

I would absolutely replace those ball valves now. If, not when they go bad.
Why have a diverter on the return?
What is the purpose of the one diverter on the input side?

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Replace the internals of the ball valves?

You can’t see it well in these pictures (pictures of the old plumbing are in my original post) but there’s an old Polaris/cleaner return line behind the pump. The diverter on the return is splitting between that and the main return jet. I plan to keep the old Polaris return line turned off most of the time and just make a pvc water fountain for the kids to play in.

There is also diverter before the pump between the main drain and skimmer lines (blue ball valve lines)

PoolStored said:

When are you going to convert?

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Probably summer 2026. I've already spent enough this year, but hoping maybe I can purchase a CircuPool RJ-45+ salt system (now $1449 at Discount Salt Pool) in the off season. Pool would have to
have some rewiring done for this, as I would want the salt control unit mounted in a shed rather than out in the elements. So for now, I suppose, I'm sticking to bottled
liquid chlorine.

I haven't ordered a test kit yet, but looks like I need the TF-Pro kit.

All of your valves are OFF. You are dead heading your pump.
Turn the valves 90 degrees (suction and return) to open them.
The gate to the valve is opposite side of the handle and it should say OFF on the top. Wherever "off" is over/facing, that pip is closed off.
you need to fill the pump with water before attempting to run. Did you do that?
Make sure the valve on the filter is in Filter or recirculate.

It's confusing, you would thing that the valve "handle" part being parallel to the pipe would be open, it is the opposite case. They are closed.

My guess was wrong. (who'd a thunk it. Lol)
That's why we test...was just a guess.
I'm surprised. We usually see this in the desert SW.
At 180, I'd run soft water.

Don't add more CYA until you show 5+ ppm, 30 minutes AFTER a 10ppm addition.

There is a bacteria that eats CYA and creates ammonia. It happens. The chlorine cleans it up.

PoolStored said:

What is the CH of your water? Around here (N.Ohio) CH is about 90, and with the amount of rain we get, CH is NEVER an issue. I end up having to add CH.
Test your fill water CH and we can give you a better answer.
My guess, it is not necessary.

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I will run some testing, however some local data on town water is as follows:

Hardness = 180 mg/L (10.5 grains per gallon)

Iron = 0.7 mg/L (0.3 mg/L is the threshold at which iron can cause issues)

rootcd said:

black to white is 120. And I hear the pump or motherboard click every 30 seconds or so.

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I know this is an old thread but I have the exact same problem you were having. I was wondering how you fixed your problem.

starr1005 said:

I should have said, we are not doing the heater, does that change your thought on a chlorinator?

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No. Pucks add CYA, they are not sustainable. You either go (LC) OR (SWG), or (use pucks until your CYA get to 60, convert to liquid, allow CYA to drop to 30, go back to pucks) or (use pucks until your CYA gets to 60, drain and replace enough to get to 30, then continue with pucks.
Read this:

starr1005 said:

He also said variable speed pump but i will confirm. If it's variable speed, then I don't need the clock you are saying?

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Correct. The VSP has it's own clock and configurable programming and should be wired directly to GFCI breaker.

starr1005 said:

I will get the other equipment info as well and report back.

Thanks for the advice on blasting.

I've seen some other stuff on a chlorine generator, is that now the preferred way to go?

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In TX? Pfffffft...no question. Get one that is rated for 2x your pool volume.