Hayward Tristar 2.70

Hi… Having a no start/ run situation the pump is 4 years old. It uses an Aqua Plus controller. I have 240 v at pump .. 120v at each power lead L1and L2 respectively …rechecked my com wires.. still no start. No humming or clicking.. I bring it inside every season. that didn’t help 😄The display lights up on Aqua Plus as if it is running.. Any ideas would be really appreciated. Best, Steve
How are you checking voltage? If line to ground it will show 120 volts at each terminal.

Pump Basket has air trapped - most of the time.

Post pictures please of the pump basket without lid, and the underside of the lid. I want to see all the o-rings/sealing surfaces.
Hears some pictures. I think the ring in the lid is a flat washer. The lid seams to seal tightly.
I tried to get some pictures of the air bubbles but too much reflection.

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Troubleshooting new Vingli

I have new Vingli pool vacuum. After a while it stops oscillating and just sits there. If I give it a nudge it may start up again, but only for a while. I believe it's supposed to oscillate so long as there is water flowing through it. I don't suspect low flow volume because when it's working it works quite vigorously. The regulator is turned to max. Maybe there are a number of things I can check?
What pump are you using? A VSP?
RPM too low? Dirty filter? Clogged pump basket? Clogged cleaner hose?
Please don't expect too much from a cleaner that only cost about $100.00.

Pool design

Anyone know of any good reason, other than a builder wanting to be able to cover their patoot, why you cannot have a your pool built to whatever depth/shallow/steep or long slope one’s little heart desires?

We pretty much did. And S.R. Smith told us we didn’t have a “diving pool”. and therefore wouldn’t recommend a diving board. Which is pure hogwash because what we have is everything but a non-diving pool.

Digital pH tester

I selected an Apera Instruments, LLC-AI3719 PC60-Z: pH/Conductivity/TDS/Salinity/Resistivity/Temp. I was going with the straight pH meter, but I am getting close to switching from Chlorine to SWG. I decided on this meter because of the possibility of moving to SWG. I am not sure if the other functions will be of much use. I was going for a bench model, but the PC60 had similar accuracy as the bench models I was looking at for less money.

Ok I am a blank page- we are getting a back yard pool for the first time- need as much advice as I can get

The thing that bothers me about above ground pool installations is when the equipment gets put front and center and visible from the house. It's detracting to me. So all I can add is consider putting that equipment pad (even if its just straight on the ground) *behind* the pool.
I agree with YippeeSkippy. Better at the far side of the pool than near side and near the house. But that means the skimmer and return lines are also at the far side of the pool. Are you putting in a deep end or is it all one depth?
We put ours in the back corner of the yard behind a big lilac bush. It's at least 15 ft. away from the pool and not a problem pumping.
Bury the plumbing too. No flexible hoses.

Poured concrete pool - built '69 - needs a refresh but i have big concerns

Welcome to TFP.

Paver guys like pavers, and concrete guys like concrete.

Paver bases may settle over time and concrete will crack. Which one would you rather deal with?

Safety cover anchors need to be properly installed in pavers and they hold well.

Do tight paver joints to minimize weeds growing in them. Roundup takes care of the rest.

Install an expansion joint to protect your bond beam whatever you decide.

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Fiberglass Pool Chemistry

I’m sure my chalkiness isn’t calcium scale but from what I’ve been reading/hearing (Orenda and River Pools) the white I’m seeing is actually a reaction inside of the gel coat with the calcium in the water. I’m just confused why TFP and others recommend such a high level of calcium if it’s a known issue. I’ve been working to get the level back down to help eliminate any further issues with the gel coat which is easy enough with 0ppm fill water. If it’s just a fill water issue in other parts of the country that’s fine and I’ll just ignore it moving forward.

NEED POOL CLEAR QUICK

Just bought a fixer upper with a 50 year old pool that has not been taken care of for at least 10 years. It has never been resurfaced
Looks like the pump and filter were replaced to sell the property.

The plaster is original from 50 years ago?

That's when they might have had asbestos in the plaster, so it might be possible but very unlikely.

Make sure that the chip out is done safely assuming asbestos might be in the plaster.

Noob to the forum. Looking for CYA advice

Question about the test kit. I was comparing the k-2005 to the k-2006c, so correct me if I am wrong. The only differences that I can find is that the 2006c comes with the FAS-DPD kit (which I have ordered) and the bottles that the 2006c comes with are larger. It appears I can just buy the missing solutions.
Yes, get this... Link--> SLAM Option

Noob to the forum. Looking for CYA advice

You have apparently been rumbling along and getting lucky if you have no algae and have had no algae. Your FC is super low and if you really don't have any CYA in the water that is why the FC is disappearing so fast. You need to add granular CYA in a sock that is hung in front of a pool return so it can dissolve. Don't add anything to your skimmer. Dump the tabs RIGHT NOW and get 4 gallons of liquid chlorine. You can get it at Walmart. You probably need to put two gallons in right now and let it circulate. Then test 30 mins later to see where you are. Get in the habit of testing every morning so that you can get your FC back up to 6-8 ppm each day before the sun hits the pool for very long. You need a better test kit so view the following link. Also view the CYA/FC link to understand their relationship. You might also have algae that you can't see right now so you should do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test once you get chlorine in the pool. You can use the PoolMath app to calculate what your pool needs based on it's parameters and your other test readings.
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
Test Kits Compared
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
PoolMath
Question about the test kit. I was comparing the k-2005 to the k-2006c, so correct me if I am wrong. The only differences that I can find is that the 2006c comes with the FAS-DPD kit (which I have ordered) and the bottles that the 2006c comes with are larger. It appears I can just buy the missing solutions.

Stuck on cloudy?

You are not following the process. Print this out and keep it with you...Link-->SLAM Process
You need to keep the pump running 24/7.
You need to maintain SLAM FC, which at 40 is 16FC.
You are done with SLAM when
CC<=.5
Overnight chlorine loss is <=1 (link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test)
and pool is clear...like these: Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

Don't stop until you meet the criteria!
Full House Ok GIF

Troubleshooting new Vingli

I have new Vingli pool vacuum. After a while it stops oscillating and just sits there. If I give it a nudge it may start up again, but only for a while. I believe it's supposed to oscillate so long as there is water flowing through it. I don't suspect low flow volume because when it's working it works quite vigorously. The regulator is turned to max. Maybe there are a number of things I can check?

Pentair Intellibrite Replacement - dial controller

Hi guys,

My first LED light was a Hayward...was replaced in 2016 with a Pentiar Intellibrite Color 12V . This dial controller was installed at the time. The light is dead now so I have to replace it, but the 5G Intellibrites are very expensive and the new architectural ones are even more expensive..... just doesn't seem worth it. The I know other options are out there, but is there any option that will work with this controller? If not, do I just take out this controller and replace it with a light switch?





Thansk,
Greg

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