NEED POOL CLEAR QUICK

Jump to latest Follow Reply
D

DanielleEllison

Member
Mar 27, 2025
7
Charleston SC
Hey all,
Just bought a fixer upper with a 50 year old pool that has not been taken care of for at least 10 years. It has never been resurfaced so we are under contract for replaster and re-tile. However we just received notice from our insurance company that the pool needs to be fixed in the next 30 days or we will be cancelled… the pool company is not able to complete it within that time frame.

I need any help/advice to clean this pool quickly to appease the insurance company. It will have to be drained once the pool contractor starts on it so more of a temporary fix. it is so murky we are concerned about putting all of that through the filter.

Please help!!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0104.jpeg
    IMG_0104.jpeg
    837.9 KB · Views: 34
  • IMG_0353.png
    IMG_0353.png
    441.7 KB · Views: 35
You have plenty of time to fix this up. Use a skimmer net to get as much out of it as you can. If the pump runs then you can start SLAMming the pool with lots of liquid chlorine. Links below. You will need to watch your filter pressure and backwash or clean the cartridges when the pressure rises 25% which will be very fast at first. Get a recommended test kit so you know what your water parameters are and because you can't SLAM without being able to get Free Chlorine levels of 10-20 ppm during SLAM. For example, you want PH in the low 7s. You might have to drain the pool first just to get a reasonable baseline for the water.
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
SLAM Process
Test Kits Compared
PoolMath
 
Does your pool equipment even work?

What does your insurance company consider as "fixed"?

Start with those basics and we can guide you through the rest.
 
It may not be the cheapest but I’d call an environmental hydro vac/pressure wash company (septic pump folks) and get them to drain it and pressure wash it like they do septic systems. Refill it with fresh water, then SLAM and run pump. Your filter media more than likely needs replaced and no telling what may come out of the pipes when you turn the pump on. If filter media is a sand filter, I’d backwash throughly first before turning to “filter” and then vacuum any junk to waste. If it’s a cartridge type filter, I’d probably remove and chunk the filter media in the trash and replace it with new and vacuum/remove/clean as often as necessary until DP quits rising. Just my $.02 but others may have better ideas.

DIY to save some money would be in lieu of enviro vac company would be to drain with a portable sump pump, sprayer with bleach on floors and walls and pressure wash yourself. Rubber boots, cheap rain suit, and go to town lol
 
First question is to ask your insurance company what "fixed" means?
Does the pool hold water? Or does it have a leak and that is why the water level is where it is at?
Does the pool have a vacuum?
Does the equipment work?

Those stains are not likely going to be removed with a power wash. Your plaster is old and stained and there’s little to do about it with a power washer. You are better off SLAM’ing the pool, getting the water cleaned and balanced and then investigating possible stain removal techniques.

Draining a pool, while a favorite of the pool service/pool store industry, is rarely ever necessary.

If the equipment works,
Get a good kit. Link-->Test Kits Compared
Get as much organic material out of the pool that you can mechanically. (i.e. long handled rake)
Get your SLAM on...Link-->SLAM Process
 
PoolStored said:
First question is to ask your insurance company what "fixed" means?
Does the pool hold water? Or does it have a leak and that is why the water level is where it is at?
Does the pool have a vacuum?
Does the equipment work?

Those stains are not likely going to be removed with a power wash. Your plaster is old and stained and there’s little to do about it with a power washer. You are better off SLAM’ing the pool, getting the water cleaned and balanced and then investigating possible stain removal techniques.

Draining a pool, while a favorite of the pool service/pool store industry, is rarely ever necessary.

If the equipment works,
Get a good kit. Link-->Test Kits Compared
Get as much organic material out of the pool that you can mechanically. (i.e. long handled rake)
Get your SLAM on...Link-->SLAM Process
Click to expand...
I’m normally in agreement with all of your posts @PoolStored but the OP was asking for a “quick” solution, not a prolonged one. I’m not in the pool industry or a fan of draining a pool, but everything you just said seems to be the antithesis to “quick”. SLAM and “quick” with the pictures posted by OP are not synonymous in my experience (it takes time and constant due diligence to stay on top of). With unknown filter type, age, and even if it’s any good, it’s tough to recommend following SLAM right off the bat imo. Recirculating dead algae without filtering is not a best practice.

As far as stains go, I’d agree that they won’t all be removed by draining/pressure washing. However, it’d be a heck of a lot quicker to get there from current starting point and removing all the organics in the pool currently than just going straight to SLAM I would think. Then deal with staining afterwards, but OP said they are having pool retiled and replastered by a pool contractor. So staining really shouldn’t be a concern.

Hopefully OP was smart enough to ask the first question of what “fixed” means. I assumed that was the case but we all know what assume gets us.
 
Aubie99 said:
I’m normally in agreement with all of your posts @PoolStored but the OP was asking for a “quick” solution, not a prolonged one. I’m not in the pool industry or a fan of draining a pool, but everything you just said seems to be the antithesis to “quick”.
Click to expand...
No worries, lots of different opinions, all good.
My advice is based on a few factors. It is always a risk to drain a pool. Draining is a risk. Better to drain when you absolutely need to...like replaster. It cannot be left empty. If the plaster dries out too much it can easily crack, so it would have to be hydrated somewhat constantly, and while empty and filling. There is currently tens of thousands of pounds of water in the pool applying mechanical pressure to the surface that holds it in place. The water is also cool and doesn’t allow for much in the way of thermal cycling. If you empty it and leave it that way for a couple days, without constant hydration (being wet), the plaster will dehydrate, change temperature rapidly and have no inward mechanical force on it. That's a recipe for disaster.

I assumed Quick = 30 days. That is the time the OP has, this is plenty to clean it up. May take work, but can be done.

I would agree on hiring someone with a commercial vacuum to get all the organics out.
These all have 4.7 or above Google ratings, and at least 50 or more ratings...see if they can get the organics out, then you can slam...they likely can get the equipment up and running.
www.charlestonpoolsandservice.com

Services

We specialize in creating luxurious pools tailored to your vision. Whether you dream of a sleek modern design or a lush, tropical escape, we’re here to make it a reality.
www.charlestonpoolsandservice.com www.charlestonpoolsandservice.com
maritimepools.com

Pool Service - Pool Repair - Charleston SC | Maritime Pools

Here at Maritime Pools, we service, repair, renovate, and build inground pools throughout South Carolina and Georgia.
maritimepools.com
www.asppoolco.com

Charleston and Summerville Pool Services | ASP - America's Swimming Pool Company of Charleston and Summerville

For any of your pool maintenance or repair needs, contact our Charleston and Summerville pool technicians today at ASP - America's Swimming Pool Company of Charleston and Summerville. Call us for a free inspection!
www.asppoolco.com

Aqua Shop | Pool Company Near Me | Local Pool Supplies | Pool Maintenance Store

www.aquashopsc.com www.aquashopsc.com


Aubie99 said:
With unknown filter type, age, and even if it’s any good, it’s tough to recommend following SLAM right off the bat
Click to expand...
I'm making the assumption that "Fixed" includes working equipment. No matter what route they go, it is going to include working equipment (so get started on that now), and will include a SLAM.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Aubie99
PoolStored said:
No worries, lots of different opinions, all good.
Click to expand...
No problems, was just thinking of "quick" solutions for OP to satisfy insurance company before they cancelled their policy given they are under contract for retiling and replastering pool, but contractor can't do it in time to satisfy insurance company.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: PoolStored

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Okay after seeing the comments I’ll give more information. All equipment works, just have an air side leak as I’m blowing some bubbles which can likely get fixed with a new gasket. No leaks in the pool at all.

As for insurance company they want pictures showing it is “adequately maintained.” I’m taking that to mean not green.

As I said before we have a pool contractor because the plaster is delaminated and it flaking off (hasn’t been replastered in 50+ years) and they will be doing a full chip out and replaster and re-tile. They just cannot get it done by June 1st which is the insurance deadline.

So we don’t care about staining or anything, just a way to quickly make it not green to provide pictures to insurance company. We will not be draining it as we live next to a tidal creek and have ground water concerns so leaving that to the professional when they drain it for the replaster.
 
Here is what I would suggest for your unique situation.

Note: This is not for any other pools other than this specific one.

Drain all equipment.

Scoop out as much debris as possible with a deep net.

Begin brushing and circulating with a side pump and get the pH to 7.5.

Add liquid chlorine and brush until all green is gone.

Use floc to drop all solids.

Vacuum to waste using a side pump.

Do not vacuum over the main drain because it probably has a hydrostat that can get popped open by suction.

Once the pool is clear and free of debris, begin filtration.

Can you show your System and Post a full set of chemical readings?
 
Last edited:
For a side pump, you can use your existing pump or buy a cheap single speed pump.

Get a 1/2 or 3/4 hp pump and not bigger.

Put a valve on the output to control the flow.

Put a fitting on the suction port to connect a vacuum hose.

Get a pump that is self priming and not made for above ground pools.

Above ground pool pumps do not self prime and will not work well for the purpose.
 
You don't necessarily need a side pump.
Drain the equipment.
Remove rails
Get a deep net and a wide nylon brush
Scoop out all debris.
Brush many times thoroughly.
Do a full set of tests for all chemistry.
Post all readings.
Get the pH to 7.5.
Begin brushing and adding liquid chlorine until all green is gone.
Brush many times thoroughly.
Floc.
Wait for all suspended debris to settle.
Hire someone to vacuum to waste.
When the chlorine is at a safe level begin to filter.

Note that the chemicals will not be safe for the equipment including metal in the pool (Lights, rails, metal light niches) and pool plaster.

Plan to replace the lights.

Metal light niches are the only non-replaceable item and you need to decide if the risk of damage is worth the benefit of getting the pool clear.

It is not definite that the niches will be damaged, but you need to know the risk.
 
JamesW said:
For a side pump, you can use your existing pump or buy a cheap single speed pump.

Get a 1/2 or 3/4 hp pump and not bigger.

Put a valve on the output to control the flow.

Put a fitting on the suction port to connect a vacuum hose.

Get a pump that is self priming and not made for above ground pools.

Above ground pool pumps do not self prime and will not work well for the purpose.
Click to expand...
Darn I was just about to buy an above ground filter to avoid using ours.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply