1,

When was the pump manufactured??

Thanks,

Jim R.

1,

Were you troubleshooting in the Service mode??

Basically, nothing 'automatic' happens in the service mode.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Whelp. Not sure what happened? I had the set point to 90 when I was troubleshooting, I lowered it to 85 and it kicked on. Not sure why that would be the case but if it works, it works. Thanks everyone!

The equipment pad is the pad that all of the equipment sits on.

Done, testing tmrw. Lot's of algae and stink. I'm 2-3 weeks behind last year so I expected this.

JamesW said:

Looks like you had the same issue earlier.

If you keep the pad clean and clear of debris, it will help you detect leaks faster and address leaks before the bearings are ruined.

View attachment 644100

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Hello - thanks. Can you give me more details on where and what the “pad” is, to keep clean and clear of debris? Thanks

Super Deal!!!

Ask for new laterals.

Just wanted to say thank you for all your help. My pool is now crystal clear and starting the swg tomorrow!

Do you know if dowels were set into the old slab before the new one was poured?

Why do you want to wet lay into thinset? With multiple distinct slabs and especially with those sweeeping curves, I would think that you need to be totally un-coupled from the substrate. Those slabs are essentially the same thing as a well compacted subgrade for laying pavers traditionally. I got curious and looked up “everblue pavers” (I’m a specs nerd) and their install manual is pretty clear that you absolutely can lay pavers into a light sand course over concrete (making appropriate considerations for drainage). If you go that route, you wont be glued down in thinset across any of the cold joints or expansion joints.

Those look like big 18” or 24” pavers. Uncoupled, I think you’re ok to lay a pattern across joints. My concern would be limited to vertical heaving, but that will be spread out across the length of the paver. You might ask the mfg if you should slightly increase the width of the sand joint to allow for a little more play. I don’t know how much you’ve increased the size of the existing pavement, but if its substantial I’d also think about waiting a season to allow the ground underneath time to adjust to the weight of the new slab and also equalize moisture content with the existing slab (clay soils in your area?). Next year you can come back and lay a level sand course across everything knowing that you’ve accounted for as much settling as you can stand to wait for. (I’d probably skip this if the slabs were doweled).

Personally, I’d think twice about a “tile approach” using thinset in this instance. Ditra does make a very specific outdoor uncoupling membrane that is designed for patios to be self draining, and somebody well versed in the product may be able to evaluate its potential here. That person isn’t me. Also, ARDEX makes great products. I really like them. Read up on the substrate moisture specs for the specific product you’re looking at using. When I was looking at using some last, I learned that some of them are designed to be used on green concrete. Others require a more substantially cured slab.

I assume you are working with a reputable local contractor who knows flat work and your region (not a Craigslist jack of all trades). Ask questions. Heed advice. Agree on a plan. You’re paying for experience.

1,

I assume you have a two wire connection to the heater's Fireman's switch..

If that is true, then the heater is just being controlled by a small relay on the main card.

In the Service mode pushing the button should turn on the relay ... and the heater.

In the Auto mode pushing the button and having the set point temperature above the actual pool water temperature is required to turn on the relay.

Thanks,

Jim R.

I cannot read what is on the display in that picture.

Show us what devices they are connected to that is cutoff on the left side of the picture.

You can see the hose clamps securing the right side.

They both unscrew from the devices on the left side.

Remove them and you can examine the parts buildup.

I use an Intex SWG. In the dead of summer I run it 5-6 hours per day and haven’t had any issues maintaining a TFP clear and sanitary pool. You’ll need to figure out how much FC you lose a day and adjust your run time accordingly. I use Pool Math to calculate the run time. I typically have it scheduled to start at 5:15am.

Your mileage will vary from mine due to climate differences.

Does yours have the O-ring under the lower cover?
Did you twist the lower cover to lock it in plafe?
Did you lube the O-ring?
Is there a valve back at the equipmemt pad to adjust the flow into the venturi?
If so, is it open enough to create the necessary venturi action?

kimkats said:

You do NOT want to replace any of the deck unless you do the whole thing. They will never match due to the time and elements the old ones have been exposed to.

Me? I would use full strength bleach without any additives in it. You may need to get "chlorine" which is the same stuff but a bit stronger than bleach you can find now a days. I would have a hose ready to rinse the chlorine off the stone.

-Pick a stone that is out of main eye sight.
-spray or pour some of the chlorine on it and scrub it with a hard bristly brush
-rinse it real good

What does it look like? Did it get rid of the mold and such?

Make sure you are wearing clothes and shoes you don't care about because they will get bleach on them!

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Thanks, I will try it, nothing to lose. We've also had very little rain this reason and I notice the rain helps keep it a bit cleaner.

ajw22 said:

Post a picture of the outside panel display in AUTO mode.

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Read Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading

What are you thinking of sealing the gap with?

Better to stuff foam backer rod in the gap. It comes in various widths.

ringi said:

One reason is the trapped organics use up chlorine until they are destroyed or cleaned from the filter. But with a SWG and cheap electricity that is less of an issue.

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Organics in a pool, whether they are in the pool or trapped in the filter will consume HOCl. Doesn't matter where they are. The filter cleaning is the issue. Larger filters require less frequent cleaning. In this case, in Florida, pool builders tend to install 150sqft or 200sqft filters which require more frequent cleaning than larger filters, and we get new FL members all the time complaining about frequency of cleanings. We also recommend the use of hairnets/skimmer socks to reduce filtration load. We have many members with large (30K+ gallon) pools and clean once, or maybe twice a year.

Our recommendation is to install the largest filter you can afford and will fit on your pad. Cartridge/DE/Sand is more of a personal preference. Either way, less frequent cleanings, more trouble free.

You might enjoy these:
Pool Chemistry:
Why go big and go cartridge- see "pool filter sizing":

WEllen, I got it working. It was the flue sensor. Some other issues, like the temp display not showing on the board, but at least the heater is working, for now.

Failed flow switch.

Seems to be the correct temp.