sande005 said:

What have you been using to add chlorine? Liquid, tablets, powders? Any examples of how much and when, and the readings before and after?

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liquid and powders plus tablets. I put 2 lbs of shock weekly and 1 gallon of liquid just to add some chlorine my pool store can’t figure it out

Thats the #1 reason that brings folks to TFP. Whether its test strips or the pool store, 'just test weekly and shock it every now and then' equates to what we call 'dump and pray'.

Get yourself a reliable kit. We'll show you how to do it on the cheap and easy.

Go to your screen name at the top right of the page, go down to Preferences and then to Email and check both boxes.

JamesW said:

They also have a "Partner" Program for pool people and this is a registered authorized reseller, warranty station etc. who has had training by Pentair so Pentair knows that the company has some professional knowledge.

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This is actually a bit nuanced. You can be a Pentair partner and NOT be authorized to perform warranty work…. Even on your own installs as a professional. You have to be on a separate secret list to be authorized to perform Pentair warranty work. Ask me how I know….

Bryanth76 said:

pool store uses Taylor Kit plus the electronic and testing for cya,ph,alk, chlorine, ammonia, phosphate
ph-7.6
cya-35
alk-80
fc-0

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test weekly

Bryanth76 said:

pool store uses Taylor Kit plus the electronic and testing

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So weekly tests ?

The sun comes out everyday, even behind the clouds and burns off FC. You need reliable home testing and use it often.

Test Kits Compared

Bryanth76 said:

vinyl
cya-35
fc-0
ph-7.6

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What have you been using to add chlorine? Liquid, tablets, powders? Any examples of how much and when, and the readings before and after?

Newdude said:

Hey Bryan and Welcome !!!


How are you testing ?

How often are you testing ?

What is it testing ?


In range is a broad term that could mean a million things.

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pool store uses Taylor Kit plus the electronic and testing for cya,ph,alk, chlorine, ammonia, phosphate
ph-7.6
cya-35
alk-80
fc-0

HermanTX said:

Welcome to TFP.
Specifically we need to know the following
CYA level
FC level
pH level

Is this a gunite pool? Vinyl or Fiberglass?

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vinyl
cya-35
fc-0
ph-7.6

We need more information, to get you going. We CAN solve your problem! This site is all volunteer, so any money spent will be directly on what is most effective, and least expensive. - not to this site/organization.

1. Get a GOOD test kit. Pool store testing is virtually always wrong, leading to costly products and errors in "how much". If you have a problem, you will be testing often, it also saves trips to the store. Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

2. Update your signature line, with information about your pool and equipment. Helps us a lot in keeping track, and not asking you over and over. Create Your Signature - Further Reading

3. Download and use PoolMath on your phone - it records your test results, and calculates how much of what, to add.
Free, but the $8/yr version will keep a running history, that we can see here automatically (if you want), so you don't have to type results or post screen shots. PoolMath

Even though we don't trust pool store results, and may not make recommendations based on them, what numbers are you seeing, and can you give more history about the problem? A picture of your pool would help with the context.

I am not getting notifications when there are replies to this post.

Thank you for your valuable replies.
I have made a small donation to the forum.

It sounds like your EasyTouch panel is not correctly logged into the Pentair server.

For remote operations the system goes through the cloud and Pentair servers. No payment required but the panel needs to be logged into the server.

Welcome to TFP.
Specifically we need to know the following
CYA level
FC level
pH level

Is this a gunite pool? Vinyl or Fiberglass?

Rob Plummer said:

when it tells you to add a scoop of powder if it turns brown or doesn't turn pink can you only do that once? in other words one more scoop

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The two different instructions say either 2 level scoops or one heaping scoop. They both add about the same amount of powder. If it doesn’t turn pink, there’s not much point in adding more.

For the crack on the faceplate try to put some plastic bonder on it (or something similar that may be available in Sweden). Even though it appears not to be a leak, it is good to make it stronger and prevent it from getting worse.

For the skimmer plate it appears to be a seal leak. Can that skimmer be removed and seal inspected?

PoolStored said:

You know, funny. Didn't connect the dots until just now. When I was by the heater when I first started it up, I thought "This thing puts off a lot of heat, I don't remember it being this hot." Now it makes sense.

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When the heater is running the heat has to go somewhere- either into the water or out the exhaust or the heater overheats and the safeties shut it down.

With the bad UG limiting the water flow through the heat exchanger more heat went up the exhaust. That is as designed to keep the exhaust warmer than normal when the heater thinks the water is cold.

Is there a spider gasket in there? If that is torn it would allow flow to all ports. Also, you have to clean both sides where the gasket sits to ensure a good seal.

Using one national supplier for costs:

A replacement Tagelus is about $780, plus sand(+~$130)
A Pentair CCP 420 that I love - about $1529
The XtremePower - $420 plus sand

The issue on the Amazon find is replacement parts. While not a lot can go wrong, you may need spider gaskets or o-rings for the multiport, at some time - generally if someone moves the handle while under pressure. Unlikely any other brands will fit. Equipment from the majors will generally have very long time availability for parts.
So there is a risk that the less expensive will be come more so, if you have to replace it due to lack of parts.

While I push my cartridge (the CCP 420 is great, and your pool looks very close to mine in size), and never needing backwashing is fantastic. - The double or more cost can be a big pill to swallow.

Here's more info with determining how big a filter you should have: How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

If you add your pool and your equipment to your signature here, others with much greater knowledge can help with your size selection. Create Your Signature - Further Reading

Thanks for engaging.

The first photos are from the front of my skimmer, the faceplate. When I did the dyetest it was not obvisous that dye sipped trough the cracks. Where it was very obvious tho was in the part attached to this post. The joint where the

SKIMMER ESCUTCHEON PLATE meets with the skimmer tounge​

I might be able to remove front plate. The back not so much without cutting my drain plumbing

Aiper now has an S2 out. Seems to be slightly better than the S1.

One thing that caught my eye is they reference some sort of anti dump design. One weakness of the Betta is that when they reverse sometime they do spit out some of the debris. Now I am not saying the Aiper is better, I have no evidence of that.

Also my Bettas do occasionally get stuck at the skimmer due to suction. Dont know if the Aipers would be better at that.

If I did not already have two working Betta’s I would buy the Aiper for fun.

CodyPereira21 said:

View attachment 646527

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I want to love those kits because I like the colored plastic instead of a sticker, but unfortunately they are awful. They cheaped out on the pH reagent and it starts to get unreliable with as little as 3 ppm chlorine in the water. Then the OTO chlorine test that's very vague in the best kits is somehow made even less useful in this one. It was obviously built down to a very low price and sadly that made it about as useful as a test strip.

CodyPereira21 said:

tested for my Chlorine levels last night and they were through the roof

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Maybe, maybe not

Please read this