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Spa cracks that need repair

B
PoolCracks said:
What would you do if you're in my shoes...

The installer didn't say much about these cracks, left me with a bottle of Fix-A-Leak, and wished me luck...
Do I even bother using this?

I could attempt to patch the cracks with epoxy bond and patch the missing grout.
I know this approach doesn't address the underlying issue but I may not be ready to rip open the entire spa.
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First thing would be determine if it’s leaking. Water leaking will cause further damage.
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Spoiled by 9 years of prior 1 to 3 days SLAMs

M
Immense scrubbing taken place during the week, the ladder has been removed. I have maintained FC between 10 and 12.5 for two with a CYA of 30. I haven't really performed an "OCLT" yet as the water still is not crystal clear, however FC has been holding steady overnight, and CC is 0. I can make out the main drain now, but is still not cystal clear like it usually is. I just bought a second set of 4 cartridges to replace what I though was an inferior Amazon offering and reordered the same cartridges I removed. I am scratching my head as Tuesday will be 2 weeks of SLAM. I don't think there is still algae in the pool at these levels, which leads me to question my sanity at this point. I know I am heading in the right direction with miniscule improvement but would have thought more marked improvement would be on the horizon for me.
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Free Chlorine Staying Low

M
Apologies in advance for the long thread. A lot of data points here.
Plaster pool about 33,000 gallons. Cartridge filter.
  • Last year I opened my NJ pool to horrible algae and was able to SLAM my way to a clear pool in about 10 days, getting high CYA levels under control at the same time. I replaced my filter cartridges and had a perfect season after that.
  • This year I closed late and opened early to try to avoid that situation which worked. Small amounts of algae at opening which I quickly got under control.
  • We then went away for a few days and had the pavers cleaned which dumped a bunch of sand into the pool. I vacuumed it out with a cheap canister vacuum to spare my Polaris. But every day a mess would appear on the pool floor. I thought it was sand resettling which I vacuumed up, but after a few days wondered. Was it algae? Pollen?
  • We have a ton of mature trees around us dumping ungodly amounts of mess this year. We got a skimmer robot which is doing a good job, but last night it actually filled up overnight and the floor was blotchy again. This leads me to believe its pollen, not algae. Nothing's collected on the walls or ladder for over a week. Do I need to treat the pool differently while this is happening?
  • As for the chemical situation, the chlorine levels never stabilized since opening.
  • CYA was very LOW at opening. I have no idea why. Added 12 pounds of stabilizer over 3 days last week and it is now up to 30.
  • The pool is perfectly clear but I CANNOT get my free chlorine to register. I am shocking every evening (not SLAM levels because it's clear) and have put a floater with pucks directly in my pool in case the chlorinator isn't working right. Nothing is visibly wrong with it, but chlorinator pucks are dissolving super slow. The water is cold and pool not in use yet so I'm not sure if this is normal. Here's where I am most mornings:
    • Free Chlorine near zero
    • Combined chlorine .6
    • pH 7.2
    • Total Alkalinity 100
    • Calcium Hardness 450
    • CYA 30
I am stumped and spending a fortune on shock. I'm just dumping money into the pool and not solving anything. Should I switch to adding liquid chlorine? How much? For how long?
For those who stuck with me, thank you!
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Really dumb question about pool poles

F
I also use the push the buttons and twist method.
Wear against the edges of the holes in the pole can wear the buttons in to mushroom shapes. That makes it quite a bit more difficult to press them as you have to simultaneously twist and/or push or pull on the brush to get the hole aligned with the fat part of the mushroom head. I take this as my indication that it's probably time to buy a new brush, but I do see that replacement buttons are available from Amazon, including stainless ones:
Which might be more resistant to the wear problem.
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Test after opening salt pool

P
Quick update, all levels looks really good. Salt test gives me 2800 so i may dump in another 40 lbs bag…Fc stay consistent at 7ish and swcg is set at 40. Not touching anything for now.
How often you guys suggest to clean swcg cell? I saw a tutorial on youtube it seems pretty easy to do. What is the name of the wrench used to unscrew? I need to buy one of those.
Any other suggestion is welcome. thanks so much, thanks to this forum my pool has never been better….
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Calcium tests vinyl pool

Northern cannonball
Hey folks,
I have a taylor 2006 test kit and a vinyl liner. For 4 pool seasons my calcium readings are always well within the recommended ranges. I've never had to once manage the calcium levels in the pool. So I am curious, is it even worth bothering to check calcium levels? I don't mind spending the $ on the reagents if there is a benefit.
Thanks
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Color Blind - Help?!

B
JessBlount617 said:
Hi friends! Happy summer!

I’m helping a friend learn how to test and balance their own water. Husband and wife duo. I take my kit to their house, and the husband says “OHHHH WAIT… I’m colorblind…”

Welp… that wasn’t on my Pool Care Bingo Card. The wife is nervous about testing - which I have reassured her if I can do it anyone can. She doesn’t want to mess it up (we’ve all been there).

So… tell me… are there methods of testing other colorblind friends have used and been successful? Any guidance I can share to my friends is appreciated!
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The pH test is probably the hard one for that. But the FC test should be easy to be able to tell if the difference between clear and some kind of pink. Maybe CH and TA would be difficult to find the end point if they can’t see whether the shade changed after adding the final drop.
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Persistent Liner Staining

J
We have a 20k gallon vinyl lined in ground pool. For a year we have been battling staining. It tests nearly 0 for iron and copper and pool store insists it's manganese because we leave open in winter with heavily wooded yard. All of our chem levels are perfect after getting super high phosphates under control. Only thing low is calcium. City water. Used Stainfree and metal free, liner was perfect but water cloudy. Tried floc and Revive but never cleared. When started adding chlorine, stain slowly returned. The whole liner with light tan stain. See photo. Any ideas on clearing water and stain?
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Spa cracks that need repair

P
What would you do if you're in my shoes...

The installer didn't say much about these cracks, left me with a bottle of Fix-A-Leak, and wished me luck...
Do I even bother using this?

I could attempt to patch the cracks with epoxy bond and patch the missing grout.
I know this approach doesn't address the underlying issue but I may not be ready to rip open the entire spa.
Click to expand...

Fresh Pool Install

E
TinFoilHat said:
I placed an order with them Saturday, got shipping confirmation Monday and received it yesterday, Friday. USPS NC to AZ in 5 days. I didn't check their website, I just followed their email updates.
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Well I ordered Tuesday and I'm in southern Michigan half the distance to Arizona and the last email I got was Tuesday saying waiting for pickup from USPS, and tracking still shows that.
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Wiring help for a CircuPool RJ60+

ultranothing
ajw22 said:
Your VS pump should get constant power and not be switched on the LOAD side of the relay.

I think the two wires are for your pump and heater.

The pump wires should be moved to the LINE side screw to be constantly powered. Then you have room to put the heater and SWG power under the LOAD screw.

You need to trace and confirm the existing wires to understand what you are doing.

I don’t know why your SWG did not get power before. I would have needed to see how it was connected.
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Went out this morning and got some WAGO connectors. Tried wiring the SWG to the pump relay with pigtails - nothing. Changed the wires for the pump from the LOAD side to the LINE side and put the SWG on the LOAD side - nothing.

Took ALL the wires off the relay which leads from the filter pump connector wires - the pump still runs. Something, something "dummy relay"? From the research we've done.

I just don't get it, man.
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Color Blind - Help?!

JessBlount617
Hi friends! Happy summer!

I’m helping a friend learn how to test and balance their own water. Husband and wife duo. I take my kit to their house, and the husband says “OHHHH WAIT… I’m colorblind…”

Welp… that wasn’t on my Pool Care Bingo Card. The wife is nervous about testing - which I have reassured her if I can do it anyone can. She doesn’t want to mess it up (we’ve all been there).

So… tell me… are there methods of testing other colorblind friends have used and been successful? Any guidance I can share to my friends is appreciated!
Click to expand...

New member

PoolStored
gbern said:
I have an honest question though: how do you SLAM your pool with a full time job and kids involved and in many activities?
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Start on Friday and slam every 2 hours into friday night, saturday and sunday. Slamming more often early is the best.
Then Slam a couple times in the morning, and every two hours into the evening during the week.
Do the best you can...
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Seagull Pro gets confused- rotates in place

G
I got a new Seagull Pro the other day to replace my Polaris 380 (booster died). At first it seemed to work right, then it stopped in the deep end and just started rotating. I don’t have any bottom drains.
Took it out and charged, tried again this time in wall+bottom. Was doing a nice job on the water line, then gut hung up in one corner and stayed there until the power drained. Never got to the bottom. It sat in one place for 5 full minutes, moved forward a few feet and started spinning again, Comments appreciated.
Tried again in bottom mode, again eventually started spinning. It’s like it is confused about where to go. BTW there were no obstructions or tangled stuff in the wheels.
Aiper thinks I have a defective unit and will replace it, I will repost when I get the replacement.
I paid $499 on the Aiper site and noticed that Leslie’s has it for $249 (so does Intheswim). Has anyone gotten one of these? I wonder if they are the recalled version?
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General fault and issues with my SWG

A
Opened my pool last week and went into iAquaLink and noticed im getting a series of faults.

Okay so did a reset and have the same thing happening. What seems to happen is the following:

1. ⁠No errors on startup
2. ⁠After a period it shows general error
3. ⁠After a period general error goes out and then I get a service light
4. ⁠Panel screen shows the salt cell running and then shows 120 and 121.
5. Sometimes not fault codes at all and it just shows cell resting.

I look up iaqualink error codes and it shows low current to salt cell?

Any tips on how to fix this?

Should I order a new cord? Should I order a new salt cell? Salt cell is about 2.5 years old…

One other issue. I notice that I have a puddle around the salt cell? So maybe there’s some sort of leak? (See the last picture)
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