Welcome to TFP.
In general we do not recommend using minerals. The minerals provide no sanitary advantage and can accumulate in your pool water and stain the pool surfaces.

The foundation of TFP is to test your own pool water - need to have a recommended test kit.
Test Kits Compared
Use either liquid chlorine or a saltwater chlorine generator (SWCG) which is the primary sanitizer for your pool.

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Pool Care Basics

JamesW said:

I would consider it at least 50% chance the pump will not work when you get it.

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After looking at the pictures, I revise the chance of not working up to 99.999%.

The bearings are probably bad.

Just my opinion.

Rockstead said:

The person seems reputable, offered me a warranty too.

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See if they will allow you to pay only after you get it installed and working for at least a week.

PoolStored said:

No. And it won't matter.

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Ok, I’m back! I added in the data here. I didn’t know where to put the CC in the app but it’s 5ppm

Melnox said:

Oh, I failed to mention, this is for my bromine sanitized spa. Is dry acid ok then?

I do strictly use muriatic in my pool anyways.

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How often do you drain your spa and refill?

PoolingInKC said:

I do find their TA and CYA measurements to be suspect at times

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One of the many problems at the pool store. In part because of their training, their mood, their experience, etc. But I suspect the primary reason is that you get a different person each time. The most important aspect of pool testing is consistency. It's more important than the actual numbers. For example, if your pool stays algae free at FC 5, and you test at FC 3, then add enough chlorine to get you back to FC 5, you're golden. But it doesn't really matter if the result was actually 5, or 3. What matters is it's you testing, and you always do the exact same thing to get that "algae-free" FC number. It's the "algae-free" that is all that matters, not whether that 5 is really 5, or 4 or 6.

But the pool store can't give you consistency, because each person does it slightly differently. It's why testing your own water is so important, and gets you such great results. It's because only you can test your pool water the exact same way each and every time.

ajw22 said:

Just about.

If you can drain and refill the pool, then do that and forget all this chemistry stuff. As soon as the fresh water is in the pool, take a picture for the insurance company.

We generally ban the magic potions with copper sulfate, which stain pool surfaces, and floc, which can ruin filters.

You have a very special case.

Yellow Out and Green To Clean do bad things to your pool. But if you are going to drain it and chip out the plaster, it does not matter.

Green to Clean® - Natural Chemistry

naturalchemistry.com

https://lesliespool.com/yellow-out-4-lbs/15991.html?msockid=0d3721056be56d0a01bd34ad6a4d6c24

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We are concerned about draining as we are in a flood zone and right across from a tidal creek and we are unsure about opening the hydro pressure valves ourselves and because we have no idea where our main drain even is because we can’t see it

So we set the pool up with the pavers under each leg. Now 5 15" pavers have cracked. Had to stop filling the pool. Do I have to completely drain it and get the PT wood under the legs? Some parts of the ground is not completely level. My husband worked his butt off trying to get the ground level. Not sure what to do! Help

Dless said:

Using my vacuum for the first time for the season, at 1st it did not run. After a second try worked fine. 2 days go by and I turned it on and the control box lights up, and I hit the start program button and I noticed the unit itself isn't running and I also noticed that the lights in the back of the unit were not on. I was hoping to figure it out before buying a new one. I did remove back cover and there was no debris inside. Is it the cord or something else that I am able to fix? Thanks

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Maytronics builds the Prowler, so it's going to have a lot in common with my Dolphin Active 20 that pooped out a few days ago.

A couple of years ago, I had the same scenario. Controller lights up, robot does not with intermittent stops and goes before it went dark. The system was about 4 years old and I took the $120 bet it was the power cord and ordered a new one from Marina. Installed the new cord and it worked well for about 18 months.

Now it's pooped again, this time the board partially lights and the robot has a steady blue light and will not move. Whatever it is this time, I'm not willing to bet that $120 again. I'm suspicious of the cord, and also the controller, but the failure signs are different this time.

Your options are to take it somewhere, pay the bench cost and find out what's wrong, which would probably be around the same cost for a new cord just for the diagnostics. However, if the cord doesn't resolve it...you blew $120 bucks maybe. You'll still need to pay to bench it and whatever parts necessary to get it working again. Marina Pool & Spa has an extensive list of replacement parts with the prices. Or if you're a tinkerer and determined to fix THAT one at all cost you can order parts and DIY. Really depends on your wallet vs determination.

Since I'm almost 6 years in on the old one, I'm replacing it. I'm curious what is wrong with it so I may go ahead and bench it at some point, to see what's actually wrong and the cost to repair, to see if it's worth keeping as a backup.

Good luck!

JamesW said:

That is the part number for the drive unit only.

The drive sits on the motor and converts 230 volts, single phase, 60 hz, into 3 phase power for the motor.

V2.65 has only very limited ability to control a variable speed pump.

There is a very high likelihood of the pump not working.

I would consider it at least 50% chance the pump will not work when you get it.

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The person seems reputable, offered me a warranty too.

Rockstead said:

SP3200DR

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That is the part number for the drive unit only.

The drive sits on the motor and converts 230 volts, single phase, 60 hz, into 3 phase power for the motor.

V2.65 has only very limited ability to control a variable speed pump.

There is a very high likelihood of the pump not working.

I would consider it at least 50% chance the pump will not work when you get it.

JamesW said:

Pictures?

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Oh it’s all in my post above, I had gone back to add it, I had pressed submit too quick.

Welcome to TFP.
There are several threads on baquacil. See this one

Pictures?

JamesW said:

Software versions necessary to operate the TriStar VSP.

Aqua Logic/Pro Logic/Aqua Plus v2.65 or higher.

https://www.royalswimmingpools.com/Merchant2/manuals/Hayward/Troubleshooting/TriStar-VS-Technical-Guide.pdf

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My Aqualogic firmware is 2.65, so I should be good!

Based on that would you recommend that pump? I was just so confused on googling that SP3200DR that shows it’s a retrofit kit but the assembly looks like it’s original from the pictures.

The HP is good right? and it had the Aqualogic integration and it should be way better than my 1HP super pump that I’ve been struggling with.

I was just hesitant because I didn’t see SP3200VSP written on it from the pictures.

thetekgeek said:

Honestly - it looks a bit like dead algae to me.

Perform an OCLT - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)

If you pass, great. IF you fail - SLAM - SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

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And I do not have a sand filter just to be clear. I run glass media.

brennerc said:

Yes I have a salt water generator....Need to add about 90 lbs of salt tonight as well.

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I would not turn on the SWCG right now, but go ahead and purchase salt for addition later.
Address the cloudiness with liquid chlorine as there appears to be some lingering algae.
bring up the FC level to SLAM level
Your CYA was virtually zero based on test in your Pool Math log. So you should bring up CYA to 30 to do a SLAM as that will bind some of the chlorine to minimize lost to UV.
Lower pH to about 7.2
So add stabilizer to get 30ppm CYA
Add LC to get to SLAM level of 12ppm FC.

If you wish to cover, still run the pump a bit each day and generate 1 ppm FC give or take.

Should only really need to clean out the skimmer basket if you leave it run normally. Raise the SWCG generation by 1 ppm FC per day if you go that way.

Compare dimensions to your filter.

In your climate, you will use 3-5 ppm FC per day. So on average about 64 oz (1/2 gallon) of 10% liquid chlorine per day during swim season.

Software versions necessary to operate the TriStar VSP.

Aqua Logic/Pro Logic/Aqua Plus v2.65 or higher.

Age of Goldline Controls Aqua Logic P4 System?

Software Revision Number?

SWCG sounds ideal and something we'll consider down the line. If we ditch the Nature2 Fusion inground all together now (remove tablets and mineral cartridge) and move to liquid chlorine (which is manageable for us), do my chemistry numbers need to be in a certain range first and/or do I need to test for minerals at any point? I have the Pool Math app installed and ready to go. How much chlorine can I expect to use daily/weekly?

How old is the light? The greenish tint is only around the edge of the lens. Is it faded or yellowed from UV damage?