Fill truck is coming this week. I have about 6-8” of water in the pool, 3 gallons of chlorine, and the rust has pillowed but I can’t kick on the pump/filter until we’re closer to full. It’ll cycle through Joe Dirt for a day or 2 and then we’ll be TFP Clear

Which brings up something - Vitamin C to remove rust from the liner? Is that the right thing… I can’t remember!

I keep checking the pavers that I have the legs on - no substantial movement yet! Fingers crossed they stay while we fill!

V___25 said:

I have nothing to add, I'm just strangely invested and want updates!

Good luck with your new pool adventure

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I love people who are curious! More of us should be!

Melnox said:

Usually in the fall before winter, then again in spring and as needed in summer

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The sulfates in the dry acid will accumulate in the spa water until you dump it.

It is not good for the SWG or concrete but hard to say if it will get to damaging levels in 6 months.

PoolStored said:

use pool math to calculate enough liquid chlorine to get from your 1FC to 10FC. Add that amount, test 30 minutes later, report.
In the app, home page, click the gear in the upper right. Enable CC. Share with TFP. Make sure you are using the same login/password as TFP.

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I added 3.5 gallons of liquid chlorine, that’s what the app told me to do to get to 10ppm. Should I add 3.5 again since that’s the calculation?

The log ins are different and it might be a pin since I already paid for the annual membership. Are you not able to see my log or is there additional functionality when using the same username? I added Cc to the log.

Also, thank you very much for your help thus far!

No way to locate the PVC pipe if a tracer wire was not installed with it.

You need to dig around to find it and send your PB the bill.

Tee into the line after the sand filter and put a valves on the line to the waterfall and the line out of the tee that needs to go back to the pond. Open both valves and see if that reduces the flow to the waterfall enough. If not, close the valve to the waterfall a little at a time until the flow is what you want. If the flow to the waterfall is not enough leave the waterfall valve open and close the other valve a little at time until you get the flow you want.

Messing with a different pump you're likely going to need to the same fiddling to make it work right just to a smaller degree.

Restricting the flow these pumps is okay to a point, it would probably work fine through the sand filter till it get dirty. It may slowly overload the pump and cause it to fail sooner. I am not up on my pond pumps and filtering, what I have seen is the pump feeds water to a filter and the water goes through the filter by gravity. if the filter is clogged water would just overflow the filter and go into the pond. In this case the pump is not restricted by the filter.

Usually in the fall before winter, then again in spring and as needed in summer

Welcome to TFP.

You should be turning the adjustment knob on the inside of the switch, not the entire switch with the connectors.

Pentair used to have a sticker on the MPVs saying use ONLY Plasto-Joint Stik. I'd recommend that.
More here:

PoolStored said:

Not interested in bolting magnesium protection.

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@JoyfulNoise I passed this out of hand without thinking about it. For some reason my head went to "I'd have to run a wire across my deck." (it was late, lol)

I certainly could do that with one of the stair bolts, do you have a recommendation of something that might work?

What about this around one of the tubes?

Anngellicas said:

So we set the pool up with the pavers under each leg. Now 5 15" pavers have cracked. Had to stop filling the pool. Do I have to completely drain it and get the PT wood under the legs?

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Yes.

Anngellicas said:

Some parts of the ground is not completely level. My husband worked his butt off trying to get the ground level. Not sure what to do! Help

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Drain and level.

use pool math to calculate enough liquid chlorine to get from your 1FC to 10FC. Add that amount, test 30 minutes later, report.
In the app, home page, click the gear in the upper right. Enable CC. Share with TFP. Make sure you are using the same login/password as TFP.

DanielleEllison said:

I will post a full chemical reading tonight.

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need to see the full pool chemistry.

Green To Clean adds ammonia to the pool and only helps with very high CYA.


Yellow Out adds Sodium Bromide to deal with high CYA.

proavia said:

Any update to these questions?

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Contractor starts in a week (will likely be pushing that back as we need clean water by June 1st.

Insurance company states “adequately maintained” which means clean water. Likely due to drowning risk with inability to see bottom.

30 min passivating, rinse with distilled water, first coat of Everbright. Everbright flows really well and self levels, easy to use.

HermanTX said:

Is your warrant a full refund of your money? If not, I would be weary.

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Even if they say it is, it is highly unlikely that they will actually do that.

mknauss said:

If you wish to cover, still run the pump a bit each day and generate 1 ppm FC give or take.

Should only really need to clean out the skimmer basket if you leave it run normally. Raise the SWCG generation by 1 ppm FC per day if you go that way.

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Thanks. It's a new plaster this season so I'm being overly particular about keeping the chemistry in order. I think I'll just cover it and let the filter run a few times a day at low speed with a little Cl generation

How do you store the s1 without any caddy? You just keep it in storage by the pool? Garage?

Made January 27 2012.

Rockstead said:

The person seems reputable, offered me a warranty too.

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Is your warrant a full refund of your money? If not, I would be weary.