Probably metals like iron.

It also looks like maybe copper and silver stains.

Can you show the system?

Do you have a mineral system?

Can you pull the cartridge and show it before and after cleaning?

OBTW, a simple item if you're doubtful that cell is producing chlorine: you can temporarily set production to 100%. If your main pool pump is running, the chlorinator should also be running. With mine, I can definitely hear the bubbles as they're generated (sounds like small amounts of gravel tumbling in pipes). You should also then be able to see your instantaneous stats for voltage, amps, and polarity.

If you're not getting any of these indications, the SWCG might not be properly setup within the Omni automation system.

Interesting how you feel about running the pump all the time and wear and tear of turning off/on.
My SWG stops working below 2000 rpm so I have the pool circuit set at 2200 rpm and that would be the lowest I can have if I want the SWG to work. Also at 2200 the pool sweep no longer works so I need at least 3000 rpm for a couple of hours which is what I have set in the Pool High circuit running for 2 hrs per day.
I could consider running 24/7 for most of the time and bumping up to 2200 when I want chlorine production and then to 3000 rpm for the pool sweep. What do you think?

I love watching your progress videos. Man are you tenacious! Do your neighbors think you’re insane?
It’s way beyond a homeowner DIY project.
90% of my neighbors can’t even figure out how to put air in their car tires let alone build their own pool from scratch.

Newdude said:

I pour acid on it. Duh.

*not on purpose. Becuase I flailed at it from muscle memory of not holding acid 99.9999% of the time.

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That’s what I would too. I think letting the pH stay at 7.8 is much less hassle.

Max1988 said:

I’m the original owner. I’ve been trying to learn as much as I can about the system. It was a new system for my pool guy. All last I struggled to maintain healthy chlorine levels. This is year two and I really want to use it this year. I’ve been reading about the relay polarity and mine is off according to the panel. I went to the troubleshooting guide but I don’t understand how to turn it on. It lists the steps but it’s not making sense to me. I think this has to be activated in order for me to get chlorine??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Relay polarity is automatic -- you can't choose it.

What you're seeing is the OmniLogic app's diagnostics page for the chlorinator. You have it set to 70%, so it should read 'Chlorinating' frequently from the top level status page. When it's chlorinating, then you can poke into diagnostics to see what the polarity is (K1 or K2), the amps drawn, current voltage, etc.

It's basically set in and forget it (to an extent). In my case, I've had it programmed between 25%-35% so far this Spring, which has been enough to keep me chlorine in-range. In fact, on a few occasions--like multiple cloudy days with lower UV--I've needed to reduce the percent production to avoid having too much chlorine in the pool.

I'm also new to a SWCG. The biggest help I've found so far is using my TFPro Salt kit to do a 'full panel' chemistry set once a week, while testing pH and free chlorine (FC) every 1-3 days. This has helped to establish a baseline for where levels are but, more importantly, to get a better sense for chlorine demand.

I'm sitting right about 50-60ppm CYA at the moment (slowly increasing by adding CYA granules to skimmer via an aquarium fine mesh bag). Therefore, I'm looking to keep my FC between 4-7ppm. When I see it drifting too high over a few days, I'll bump down my chlorine production. When I see it trending too low, I'll bump production up.

berger said:

ECO ONE hose filter

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Hose filters are really expensive chlorine removers. Yours filters to 20 microns which is somewhere between a sand filter and carts/de.

We'd be having members pump through them if they removed anything else and nobody would spend $1000 on RO or drain/refill their pools. Yours claims it could do your pool 4X.

I can't see the entire pool in those pictures, do you have a ladder? Light?

Here's photos. Not that you can really see much. It's clean. Just cloudy.

Losing zero FC overnight. Reading 0 CC. CYA is 30. Been keeping FC at 16ppm, checking adding chlorine at 3-4 hour intervals. Bushing what i can see.

This is at least the 8th time opening and i have never had it take this long.

Bperry said:

What if a mosquito lands on your arm while pouring? Do you swat it with the left or the right hand?

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I pour acid on it. Duh.

*not on purpose. Becuase I flailed at it from muscle memory of not holding acid 99.9999% of the time.

The only seawater pools I have heard of are continuous recycling from the ocean.

Ah … they are using seawater in this pool.

Very bad idea.

Seawater has all sorts of dissolved minerals in it. The precipitation is going to be horrendous. Also, seawater has a significant enough bromide concentration in it that you will be creating bromine in your pool. Bromine is very unstable towards UV and uses up any chlorine you generate by constantly converting bromide to bromine.

It’s really not a good idea to use seawater for electrolytic chlorine generation.

Newdude said:

No for real. If the bending over for a long slow pour is the problem i would build something to pour waist high. I'd probably use 3/4 PVC with some reducers (expanders?) on one end for a redneck funnel.

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Maybe. But something about trying to pour from a gallon jug of acid into a funnel even from waist high leaves lots of opportunities for splashes and spills onto the decking, or clothing. I can barely pour chlorine in the water without finding a white bleached dot on my nice pants sometimes.

What if a mosquito lands on your arm while pouring? Do you swat it with the left or the right hand?

Newdude said:

Let it go, the crud the filter traps acts as the new filter and traps finer crud. A dirty filter works better to the moment it reduces flow.

This is the sand filters cross to bear, that it takes longer to get to the same point, but IMO all 3 filters eventually filter to your yards ability, not the filter itself.

I think that every spring slam has some degree of crossover and its impossible to tell if its 50/50 or 90/10.

There's nothing the company did to make gel coat cracks, especially deep ones.

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Thanks for the reply, I will monitor the gel coat cracks carefully, maybe they were there since install, can't seem them when the jets are running.

Thanks for the info on algae, I am still slamming after 1 week and it's incredible how much clearer the water is after 1 week, the method really works.

Sorry, I didn't get any notifications after the first response. I have since found a smaller Hayward S166T tank which I got from a co-worker years ago when he got rid of his 21ft round pool (it was stuffed away and I forgot I had it). Is this smaller tank okay to use with my 1hp pump for awhile? I realize it'll have less filtering capacity and require more frequent backwashing, but my old one was probably going 3 to 4 weeks between backwashing or I would just backwash it because I needed to drain down the water level anyway. My plumbing is flexible, so no worries on that.

Secondly, is there some product to spray on plastic to protect it from the sun to last longer? My homemade chlorine tank (a 5 gallon Lowes bucket & lid) also cracked open. I suppose the best protection would come from being under a roof covering of some sort?

Thanks,
Garry

With Jandy they recommend setting a 5 minute break between stop and restart. Works great for me and I did have issues when it was the same stop/start time. There is no way to continuously run that I have found.

Also Jandy has a default or "Pool" speed where it automatically goes to when first turned on. Mine is set for 1500 RPMs.

Set it to 12a to 11:59p
Or set overlapping timers:

My Polaris never gets stuck on anything.

Mine is 27 mil.

Oh yeah its like Caribbean water lol

The white line at the tiles isn’t so much “scale” from a chemical imbalance but more a consequence of evaporation and precipitation. As water evaporates at the interface of the tile and waterline, some dissolved solids, like calcium, salt, silicates, etc, will precipitate out of solution. That scale gets deposited on the tiles. Nothing will stop that because concentration changes, not chemical ones, drive the process. This is why spillover spa faces will always develop a white crust of evaporite.

The best you can do is always try to maintain a low saturation index to promote dissolved solids staying in the solution and then scrubbing the tile line regularly. Tile cleaners can help keep tiles clean, but they require regular application and lots of elbow grease.